To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Fan fixes: Which one?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: trans swap
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Fascia Removal
From: "vegascop1" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: trans swap
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Re: Fan fixes: Which one?
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: trans swap
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
7. water drain
From: "edherrmann" <edherrmann@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: trans swap
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Coolant air bleed kit?
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Door Strut Madness
From: "graves_144" <graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. AW: Door Strut Madness
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
12. Re: Coolant air bleed kit?
From: MPolzin@xxxxxxx
13. Re: Fan fixes: Which one?
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Re: Fan fixes: Which one?
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: Re: Fan fixes: Which one?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Polyurethane bushings
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
17. Re: PRV and Porsche Motors in BTTF Deloreans
From: "maddog6198_2000" <maddog6198@xxxxxxx>
18. Re: Door Strut Madness
From: "graves_144" <graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Coolant air bleed kit?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Re: Coolant air bleed kit?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
21. Home made self bleeder (thermostat housing)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Re: Fuel Octane
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. AW: Door Strut Madness
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
24. Re: Coolant air bleed kit?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
25. trans swap part 2
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 16:14:18 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fan fixes: Which one?
The main problem all of these systems attempt to correct is the
tendency for the origional relay or the bypass to fail. I think that
they all can acomplish that but the Fanzilla is the only one I know of
that also restores the functionality of the fan fail light AND
sequences the 2 fans so they both don't start at the same time. It is
also the easiest one to install, not requireing any modifacations to
the wiring except upgrading the circuit breaker and replacing the
otterstadt switch (recommended). The biggest problem is the wiring
system AND the cooling system MUST be in good, origional condition. It
cannot make up for coolant leaks and air, wiring modifacations by
previous owners, burnt wires, loose connections, etc. The only
negetive comment I have heard about Fanzilla is it is too expensive,
never about it's quality or function. The other alternatives are less
expensive but in some cases require some effort to install.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Richard" <dmc_driver@xxxx> wrote:
> There seems to be several fan fixes available. Special T has the
> Fan-Fix One, Fan-Fix Two and Fan-Fix Dual 2X2, and others. Then
there
> is the FanZilla from Grady's. There's probably more offered by the
> other DMC vendors as well. I'm sure they are all excellent
products,
> but my question is which one I should use. My car has the
"temporary"
> fix in lieu of the blue fan-fail relay module, but it does exhibit
the
> classic engine power loss whenever the A/C compressor kicks in. I
know
> that FanZilla is supposed to remedy this plus reduce the load on the
> cooling fan circuit and so are the other products. So which one
> should I use? Do they each have a certain advantage over the next
> one? Thanks.
>
> Richard
> 5853
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 16:21:59 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: trans swap
The frame is only different in the area of the shifter mechanism and
the difference is not difficult to overcome (with an air chisel or
some spacers, depending on which way you are going). I don't recall
which, but one mounts higher than the other. Worst case you'll have
to cut out and fabricate a new metal plate where the shifter mounts.
You need to change the shifter, flywheel, pedal box including master
cylinder, trans mounts, and add the clutch line. That's about it.
Overall cost is all over the place depending on what you pay for the
parts. Buy the clutch assembly and all the hydraulics NEW.
BTW - if you NEED a manual transmission for this effort, contact me
off-list. As part of a project we have come into a few good spares
that I'm rebuilding (open, clean-up, fix the rollpin, new seals
etc.). Rich or Eric G may also have a pedal setup -
Another thought - it would probably be cheaper and easier to sell
your car and buy the right one.
Dave Swingle dswingle(AT)dmcnews.com
-- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxx> wrote:
> Raphael,
>
> I haven't looked at it personally but I know the frame itself is
different
> for automatic and manual transmission DeLoreans.
>
> --Rob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ferdaniraphael [mailto:raphael.ferdani@w...]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 12:40 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] trans swap
> hello
> Anyone swapped his auto trans for a manual ? Except trans mounts and
> shifters, what parts are involved ? How diffcult is it ?
> thanks a lot
> Raphael
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 17:02:06 -0000
From: "vegascop1" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fascia Removal
Thnx guys for the info ref PJ Grady's SS Screen. That looks awesome,
and believe me I think that its worth the $170-ish. My car is in
excellent shape when it comes to rust, after all I do live in Las
Vegas and we dont get that much rain, but the front screen along
with the bolts does show some age.
Again, thnx for this valuable information,
Ski 4649
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, kayoong@xxxx wrote:
> Ski 4649:
>
> They do. PJ Grady has "stainless steel screens" for sale. Rob
show them to
> me on his car and it does look "outstanding."
>
> http://www.pjgrady.com/stainlessmain.asp
>
> Kayo Ong
> #5508
> LIc 9D NY
>
> ===========================================================
>
> In a message dated 3/19/03 7:34:16 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> vegascop1@xxxx writes:
> >
> > Too bad the front screen didnt come in stainless huh?
> >
> > Ski 4649
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 09:42:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: trans swap
I agree with Dave. When I moved from So. Cal. to the
mountains of Colorado, I found that my automatic just
wasn't the ticket for all the mountain passes. I
inquired about swapping out my auto for a 5 speed.
More than one "approved DeLorean vendor" advised that
I would be better off swapping cars. It was tough to
do since I had bought the car new and owned it for 15
years.
After much thought, I did swap cars and got a
refurbished 5 speedd. I have never regretted it.
AND, now that Doctor Dave Delman owns my original car
(6530) and contributes to the list, I feel like I
still have contact with my first D.
This list and the community it represents is awesome.
Dick Ryan
--- Dave Swingle <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Another thought - it would probably be cheaper and
> easier to sell
> your car and buy the right one.
>
> Dave Swingle dswingle(AT)dmcnews.com
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 09:48:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Fan fixes: Which one?
Re: FanZilla price and quality.
I bought FanZilla very shortly after it first appeared
in the 80's. In 1997 I moved it from my first D to
the "new" one I bought. It is still functioning
flawlessly some 15+ years and approx 150,000 miles
since purchase.
If it failed tomorrow, I'd buy another in a heartbeat.
Dick Ryan
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 17:57:38 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: trans swap
I have a couple pedal boxes if you are interested.
Erik
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> The frame is only different in the area of the shifter mechanism
and
> the difference is not difficult to overcome (with an air chisel or
> some spacers, depending on which way you are going). I don't
recall
> which, but one mounts higher than the other. Worst case you'll
have
> to cut out and fabricate a new metal plate where the shifter
mounts.
>
> You need to change the shifter, flywheel, pedal box including
master
> cylinder, trans mounts, and add the clutch line. That's about it.
> Overall cost is all over the place depending on what you pay for
the
> parts. Buy the clutch assembly and all the hydraulics NEW.
>
> BTW - if you NEED a manual transmission for this effort, contact
me
> off-list. As part of a project we have come into a few good spares
> that I'm rebuilding (open, clean-up, fix the rollpin, new seals
> etc.). Rich or Eric G may also have a pedal setup -
>
> Another thought - it would probably be cheaper and easier to sell
> your car and buy the right one.
>
> Dave Swingle dswingle(AT)dmcnews.com
>
> -- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxx> wrote:
> > Raphael,
> >
> > I haven't looked at it personally but I know the frame itself is
> different
> > for automatic and manual transmission DeLoreans.
> >
> > --Rob
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: ferdaniraphael [mailto:raphael.ferdani@w...]
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 12:40 PM
> > To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: [DML] trans swap
> > hello
> > Anyone swapped his auto trans for a manual ? Except trans mounts
and
> > shifters, what parts are involved ? How diffcult is it ?
> > thanks a lot
> > Raphael
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 18:55:33 -0000
From: "edherrmann" <edherrmann@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: water drain
Does anyone know where and how the water drains at the bottom of the
door from the channels that are in the front and back. The channel
runs from the top of the door down to the door sill. I assume that
the bottom door sill is sealed to the frame. But where does the run
off of water go. Thanks Ed
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 19:20:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: trans swap
The economics of the swap don't make sense. Even if you buy the bigger
parts cheap there are a lot of clips, bolts, wires, etc that need to
be changed. For instance if you want to remove the trans cooler you
will need the pipe to replace it with. The wiring changes because of
the starter inhibit relay and the back-up lights. The best case would
be a totaled donor car so you could move everything that you need. If
you are doing this because the auto trans is not working right it
would be much cheaper to try to fix it than convert. The automatic can
be made reliable and will give good service, it just can't perform
like the 5-speed.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxx> wrote:
> I agree with Dave. When I moved from So. Cal. to the
> mountains of Colorado, I found that my automatic just
> wasn't the ticket for all the mountain passes. I
> inquired about swapping out my auto for a 5 speed.
> More than one "approved DeLorean vendor" advised that
> I would be better off swapping cars. It was tough to
> do since I had bought the car new and owned it for 15
> years.
>
> After much thought, I did swap cars and got a
> refurbished 5 speedd. I have never regretted it.
> AND, now that Doctor Dave Delman owns my original car
> (6530) and contributes to the list, I feel like I
> still have contact with my first D.
>
> This list and the community it represents is awesome.
>
>
> Dick Ryan
>
>
> --- Dave Swingle <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> > Another thought - it would probably be cheaper and
> > easier to sell
> > your car and buy the right one.
> >
> > Dave Swingle dswingle(AT)dmcnews.com
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your
desktop!
> http://platinum.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 11:40:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Coolant air bleed kit?
Some time ago I remember hearing about a "kit" that
essentially conntected a hose to the air bleed on the
thermostat housing, allowing the cooling system to be
self-bleeding. Anyone know who sells them? I checked
a couple of vendors sites, but came up empty.
Thanks,
=====
Steve
VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 19:41:15 -0000
From: "graves_144" <graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door Strut Madness
( Moderators note: I'm sure this will generate several follow ups but in the interim: DON"T even think about it. Your dealing with very high pressure, even with old struts. )
A little while ago I read about some special door struts available
elsewhere that are adjustable. I know how to get them, but my
question is could these be made using an old pair of stock struts?
Would it be possible to drill a small hole and pump them up (with
some sort of check valve type fitting)?
Thanks,
Tyler #3472
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 21:23:24 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
Subject: AW: Door Strut Madness
Listen to the moderator !
There are about 170 Bar inside the struts ! I don't know of any small valves
which
withstand this pressure. Don't do it !
Elvis
6548
( Moderators note: I'm sure this will generate several follow ups but in the
interim: DON"T even think about it. Your dealing with very high pressure,
even with old struts. )
A little while ago I read about some special door struts available
elsewhere that are adjustable. I know how to get them, but my
question is could these be made using an old pair of stock struts?
Would it be possible to drill a small hole and pump them up (with
some sort of check valve type fitting)?
Thanks,
Tyler #3472
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 14:27:45 -0600
From: MPolzin@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Coolant air bleed kit?
Steve,
Check http://www.specialtauto.com the air bleeder is $24.95, I just ordered
one myself today.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Stankiewicz" <protodelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 1:40 PM
Subject: [DML] Coolant air bleed kit?
> Some time ago I remember hearing about a "kit" that
> essentially conntected a hose to the air bleed on the
> thermostat housing, allowing the cooling system to be
> self-bleeding. Anyone know who sells them? I checked
> a couple of vendors sites, but came up empty.
>
> Thanks,
>
> =====
> Steve
>
> VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
> www.projectdelorean.com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
> http://platinum.yahoo.com
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 18:42:56 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fan fixes: Which one?
Hello,
I recommend John Hervey's Fan Fix. It simply plugs in like the
fanzilla. I have been using one for about 10,000 miles now and I have had no
problems. My volt gage barely moves when I have the AC/ lights etc
on.(original alternator too) The Fan Fix was one of the best upgrades I did
for my car. The Fan Fix also illuminates the "fan fail" light on the dash
when the fans come on if you want it to which I think is a nice feature.
peace
Dave
6286-stuck in storage;(
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 18:19:07 -0600
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Fan fixes: Which one?
[re: FanZilla]
> not requireing any modifacations to the wiring except
> upgrading the circuit breaker
This is something I'm wondering about after installing a FanZilla this past
weekend. Doesn't FanZilla completely bypass the fan breaker (not the one
leading to the 3rd and 4th speed relays, but the one that goes to the fan
relay and the fan fail module)? It's not something I ever recall seeing
mentioned here on the list, but between looking at the wiring diagram and
actually removing the breaker to test, I'm pretty convinced FanZilla doesn't
use that breaker for anything. Considering the hot feed from that breaker
is what appears to have fried my last two fused wire jumpers, this
information would have convinced me to buy a FanZilla much sooner!
_______________
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 18:50:25 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Fan fixes: Which one?
Todd,
Do a search of the archives for my post about the "Fatal Flaw". My post
tells you how to correct that problem.
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
-----Original Message-----
From: Todd Masinelli [mailto:tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 6:19 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Fan fixes: Which one?
[re: FanZilla]
> not requireing any modifacations to the wiring except upgrading the
> circuit breaker
This is something I'm wondering about after installing a FanZilla this past
weekend. Doesn't FanZilla completely bypass the fan breaker (not the one
leading to the 3rd and 4th speed relays, but the one that goes to the fan
relay and the fan fail module)? It's not something I ever recall seeing
mentioned here on the list, but between looking at the wiring diagram and
actually removing the breaker to test, I'm pretty convinced FanZilla doesn't
use that breaker for anything. Considering the hot feed from that breaker
is what appears to have fried my last two fused wire jumpers, this
information would have convinced me to buy a FanZilla much sooner!
_______________
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 20:12:14 -0500
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Polyurethane bushings
These are bushings that go on the sway bar and bolt to the front frame, not the LCA bushings..
Jim 6147
"vegascop1" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>Jim,
>I presume you are talking about the 2 bushings that go on the front
>of the sway bar and not the "donut" bushings correct?
>
>Thnx so much for the info! I will be ordering some ASAP.
>
>Ski 4649
>
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jwit6@xxxx wrote:
>> Sway Bar Bushings Front Frame: Summit Racing. Polyurethane. ENS-9-
>5123G. 19mm $15.69 a pair
>> I have these installed in my car and they are a direct bolt up
>replacement.
>> Jim 6147
>>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 01:20:42 -0000
From: "maddog6198_2000" <maddog6198@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PRV and Porsche Motors in BTTF Deloreans
The DeLorean that was blasted by the train in BTTF was an actual
DeLorean "shell" from an actual car.
It is on display, hanging from the ceiling at the Planet Hollywood
in Washington DC. I saw it presonally along with the huge display
screens they used in the move "Wargames" with Matthew Broderick.
Just my 2 cents worth....
Regards,
JPC
83-15943
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 03:56:01 -0000
From: "graves_144" <graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Strut Madness
Elvis, I do believe you are the one who posted (message 30626) about
the adjustable struts and pumping them up. Do they not have valves
of some sort (otherwise how can you pump them up)? Maybe you can
give us a little explanation as to how they work and post a picture
of them in the photos section. I'm asking you since I don't speak
German and can't decipher the webpage you referenced :-)
Obviously I won't be taking a hack saw to mine anytime soon! If the
struts can be modified safely with the correct fittings, then I
think it would be an interesting project, especially since I'm about
to buy new ones for my droopy doors.
Thanks,
Tyler
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxx>
wrote:
> Listen to the moderator !
>
> There are about 170 Bar inside the struts ! I don't know of any
small valves
> which
> withstand this pressure. Don't do it !
>
> Elvis
> 6548
>
>
> ( Moderators note: I'm sure this will generate several follow ups
but in the
> interim: DON"T even think about it. Your dealing with very high
pressure,
> even with old struts. )
>
> A little while ago I read about some special door struts available
> elsewhere that are adjustable. I know how to get them, but my
> question is could these be made using an old pair of stock struts?
> Would it be possible to drill a small hole and pump them up (with
> some sort of check valve type fitting)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tyler #3472
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 05:05:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Coolant air bleed kit?
I know I am going to start a contoversy but here goes. IMHO the
bleeder kit fixes a symptom. Once you have bled the air from your
system it will "self bleed" if the air that is still trapped inside is
small. The problem most cars have is that they have coolant leaks.
When the system cools it draws air in through the leaks. Since the
system gets more air in it then it can "self bleed" the auto bleeder
seems to "fix" things when in reality you still have the coolant
leaks. On the cars I have done a total rebuild of the cooling system
and are "tight" they have no problems with air. The bleeder itself
isn't a bad thing but be aware that you are only masking a symptom and
not deaing with the real problem. If you install the bleeder and EVER
have to add coolant you can be sure you have leaks. The bleeder kit is
cheaper than going the whole way though and could help you put off the
proper repair until a more convienient time.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, MPolzin@xxxx wrote:
> Steve,
> Check http://www.specialtauto.com the air bleeder is $24.95, I just
ordered
> one myself today.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 01:18:03 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Coolant air bleed kit?
David, I will agree with you to a certain extent. But, Everyone isn't as good
with tools and bleeding as you and I are and some don't like messing with
wrenches at all.
This is like the Hot Start relay, when DMC Joe jumped on me because of
selling it. My answer was, Wait till you get stopped in the middle of traffic
or going cross country and the accumulator goes bad. Then the Hot Start relay
really comes in handy.
Yes, If everything was perfect we wouldn't need things to treat the symptoms,
but sometimes it's OK to treat the symptom till you get to the doctor. If you
want to
re wire the car, then you wouldn't need The Fan Fix Dual 2 x 2 or the Fan
Zilla. But who is going to re wire. Not me. So we treat symptoms and never go
to the doctor.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
<< I know I am going to start a contoversy but here goes. IMHO the
bleeder kit fixes a symptom. Once you have bled the air from your
system it will "self bleed" if the air that is still trapped inside is
small. The problem most cars have is that they have coolant leaks.
When the system cools it draws air in through the leaks. Since the
system gets more air in it then it can "self bleed" the auto bleeder
seems to "fix" things when in reality you still have the coolant
leaks. On the cars I have done a total rebuild of the cooling system
and are "tight" they have no problems with air. The bleeder itself
isn't a bad thing but be aware that you are only masking a symptom and
not deaing with the real problem. If you install the bleeder and EVER
have to add coolant you can be sure you have leaks. The bleeder kit is
cheaper than going the whole way though and could help you put off the
proper repair until a more convienient time.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 06:27:44 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Home made self bleeder (thermostat housing)
You can make own self bleeder with a die'd down 1/8 NPT hose barb (is
almost exactly 10x1 mm), 5/16" tee (to tap into heater core bleed
line), and some 5/16" hose.
Bill Robertson
#5939
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 06:48:56 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel Octane
Am shooting 40,000 volts across a .038 plug gap. Trust me, have
complete combustion. Will post pic of plug if you need proof.
89 is not "high" octane. IMHO compensates for all the mixing and
tinkering gas companies do with formulation from time to time, season
to season ("clean burning fuel").
BTW: fire about 10 degrees BTC.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "B Benson" <delornut@xxxx> wrote:
> This has been brought up before but to avoid confusion about octane
ratings
> you should understand that octane ratings ARE directly related to the
> combustibility of the fuel. Higher compression in the combustion chamber
> means higher temperatures which require a fuel that ignites and
burns at a
> slower more controlable rate. This would be a high octane fuel. When you
> hear the engine ping or knock it's not the valves rattling, it's the
piston
> and rod bearings reacting to a pre-ignition occurring because the
high temp
> in the combustion chamber has ignited the fuel before the spark plug
fired
> and the piston is still on the up stroke, way too far ahead of the 13
> degrees before top dead center than the DeLorean requires. If you
continue
> to use a high octane slower burning fuel in a car that doesn't
require it
> the slow burn will eventually create carbon deposits in the combustion
> chamber. These deposits take up space and result in raising the
compression
> ratio. In other words your car can, over a period of time, become
dependent
> on high octane fuel.
>
> Bruce Benson
> vin 6870
>
> > Much confusion about octane. Measures ability to compress fuel mixture
> > without premature detonation. Does NOT measure "burnability" or any
> > other characteristic.
> I shoot
> > my spark a little closer to TDC than factory spec (high energy
> > ignition), so burn 89 octane to avoid ocassional valve clatter.
> >
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 11:22:54 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
Subject: AW: Door Strut Madness
Tyler,
those struts do have a valve of course. But those valves were installed,
developed and tested under worst case by a company which must guarantee
you, that this valve won't pop off once you close the door !
The pressure is 170 Bar (have no idea what this is in pound or something,
it's just 80-100 times the pressure in your tires !).
I also don't have a picture right now and of course they are installed,
therefore you won't see the valve.
the valve is on the end of the cylinder. You can twist off the attachment
to the door. There is a thread about 10mm wide and long. On the top there's
a small hole. To reduce the force and the pressure, cut a nail, put it
inside
the hole and softly hit it with a hammer. When they are new, they are too
strong so you can set them up like you want them. It takes about 10 to 15
minutes to set the correct pressure as you always must mount them back on
the car to check. I like to close my doors softly in the summer, therefore
when cold the doors won't open 100%, but they still won't droop when cold.
Like the original struts, they reduce the force when about 90% open, so the
door won't shake the car each time the door is opened.
For more informations call Adrian from delorean club germany or send him an
email.
Don't tell me you can't find that address, english isn't too different from
german !
Regards,
Elvis
Elvis, I do believe you are the one who posted (message 30626) about
the adjustable struts and pumping them up. Do they not have valves
of some sort (otherwise how can you pump them up)? Maybe you can
give us a little explanation as to how they work and post a picture
of them in the photos section. I'm asking you since I don't speak
German and can't decipher the webpage you referenced :-)
Obviously I won't be taking a hack saw to mine anytime soon! If the
struts can be modified safely with the correct fittings, then I
think it would be an interesting project, especially since I'm about
to buy new ones for my droopy doors.
Thanks,
Tyler
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 08:02:22 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Coolant air bleed kit?
While David is correct, the air bleed kit is mostly helpful when doing
coolant flushes or when replacing other parts of the cooling system. This is
the reason that I would get (and have) one. Use it once for a waterpump
replacement and it is worth its weight in gold.
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 14:34:01 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: trans swap part 2
Just wanted to thank all of you who answered my question. I
understand it's easier to swap cars than trans.But finding another
project car is not that simple : I live in france where Ds are
pretty rare... whereas Renault trans easier to find !
I spotted a D for sale and plan to go inspect it...
thanks
Raphael
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