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There are 19 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Circuit Breakers, Fuses, and Bears, Oh My!
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: B-post door trim
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
3. Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: thermostat
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Binnacle rattling (?)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Firestone Firehawk SS20s anyone?
From: Scott Tester <scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Binnacle rattling (?)
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Fall Foliage Tour Hotel info
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Documenting electrical modifications
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
From: "vrvader" <dclark@xxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Firestone Firehawk SS20s anyone?
From: "tp8534" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: DeLorean on Ebay
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
14. front coils for sale/trade
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
15. Re: Arm Rest Extension
From: MPolzin@xxxxxxx
16. Fall Tour and Caravanning
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Circuit Breakers, Fuses, and Bears, Oh My!
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
18. Re: Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
19. Re: DeLorean on Ebay
From: George Kelsey <phantomoftheopera_gk@xxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 02:05:59 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Circuit Breakers, Fuses, and Bears, Oh My!
Hopefully Dave will allow one public tiff (it's for the general
welfare, honest -- see my comment about protecting your computer)...
Of course circuit breakers and fuses are not *IDENTICAL*: they're
shaped differently, install differently, and one of them doesn't have
to be thrown away. But functionally, they are equivalent. In fact, I'd
argue that a fuse is even more sensitive, making it a better protector.
I wasn't in the DMC boardroom when the decision was made either, but
it is likely they decided to use a breaker in the fan circuit because:
1) Has anybody ever seen a 40 amp auto fuse?
2) The fuse box is full already
2) Resetable vs replaceable protection in the fan circuit could be a
perceived advantage (my own fan circuit has yet to give me problem
one, but that's another thread altogether)
BTW: I also drive 4 Lincolns, 2 AMC's, and a truck, all of which have
*FUSES* for headlights and wipers (among other "critical" systems --
isn't the fuel pump critical too?).
Re: "higher than usual current" -- the DeLorean is *basically* a 12
volt car (how common). 12V radio, 12V headlights, 12V cooling fans.
Energizing any of these components actually produces a momentary DROP
in voltage. The amps whizzing past will certainly jump, but that's
what our protection devices are rated for.
Point of clarification: when I said fan fix fuses were redundant, I
meant with the breaker, not with each other. I also used the plural
wire*S* for those of us who did our own bypass -- we have two fuses too!
Circuit breakers AND fuses are both HEAT sensitive devices. If an
electrical abnormality creates heat, they will activate. But not all
abnormalities create heat (que the public safety announcement Dave).
Probably the most misunderstood protection needed is against excess
voltage (amperage draw is pretty well covered). Voltage spikes do not
necessarily produce heat. The "1.21 gigawatts" in a bolt of lightning
for example may fry the TV without tripping the breaker to the den. Or
pass through unscathed 24 gauge telephone cable. If your computer is
plugged only into a circuit breaker equipped power bar, it is not
really protected. I don't think excess voltage is a concern on the
road, but you might want to check with Martin G or John H.
Keeping your D's electrical system stock does allow easy reference to
the printed wiring diagram. But the nice people at the factory
engineered in some weaknesses IMHO worth redoing. We're talking about
more than fan relays here: passing full side & tail light amperage
through the dash switch is a bad idea. Fuse 8 appears to have
inherited everything that wouldn't fit anywhere else. I see nothing
wrong with improving what is already a nice automobile. Of course it's
a good idea to document what you've done, but then don't you just have
a wiring diagram with appendixes?
With our luck some DMLer with an electrical engineering PhD from MIT
is going to respond and prove us both wrong...
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> Fuses and circuit breakers are completly different devices. The only
> thing you can say they have in common is that they are protective
> devices used in electrical circuits. The main reason that there is a
> circuit breaker in the cooling fan circuit is for the ability for it
> to take short periods of higher than usual current so you can start
> the fans,(when motors start they have a very high current draw, much
> higher than when they are running steady-state). The circuit breaker
> also gives the automatic resetability which is desirable in critical
> circuits like headlights and wipers (not that hey are used in
> Deloreans but are on most cars). Unless you really understand what you
> are doing in the electrical system it is best to keep it as stock as
> possible with the exception of the recomended relay and circuit
> breaker upgrades. Make sure all connections are clean and tight and
> you actually have the correct size fuses in the correct locations.
> Carry an assortment of fuses for emergencies so you can always replace
> a blown fuse with the correct size. FYI the fuses in the Fanzilla are
> not redundent, each fan has it's own fuse so if 1 fan dies it won't
> take the whole circuit with it, now you REALLY know what the Fan Fail
> Light is supposed to do, tell you when you have a bad fan!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 23:43:22 EDT
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: B-post door trim
I recently replaced my black "back post" and bought it from PJ Grady...Are
you talking about the piece that runs up the right side of the drivers door
and is about 16 inches long? Mine needed to be replaced becasue it rubbed at
the top every time you open/closed the door. I was told this is very common
as it was a tight fit there.
When I got mine I peeled back some of the vinyl, cut away some of the plastic
to make it 1/4 inch tighter so it no clears the inside top of the car when
you close the door.
It took 5 minutes and you cant even tell....try calling Rob Grady, I think I
paid about $30-35.
Mike C
2109
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 02:55:32 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
You can't really diagnose A/C without a pressure gauge (you don't need
the full manifold set -- just a single gauge on the low side is fine).
You may also need to jump the compressor to force it to spin during
diagnosis (the DeLorean has a pressure cutoff switch).
Take a reading with the system at rest. Should be 100 - 110 lbs. Less
-- you may need freon. More -- your system may be overcharged.
Get a good refrigeration cycle started (in a converted R12 system this
often requires more air flow across the condensor than the fans alone
can provide -- drive the car just a short distance). If your low side
isn't ice cold & sweating, you don't have a cycle.
Take another reading (cycle still going). Should be 30 - 45 lbs on the
low side.
If your stabilized pressures were OK: higher pressure usually
indicates an obstruction in the system (can be ice -- always pull a
vacuum before charging it). Lower pressure is more common, usually an
honest to goodness freon leak, a stuck expansion valve (orifice
tube?), or a dying compressor.
BTW: you CAN do your own auto A/C in the driveway for $50.00 or less.
This includes flushing and vacuuming the system (you use the engine
itself). Contact me for details.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "vrvader" <dclark@xxxx> wrote:
> Air conditioning problem
> I have run into an air conditioning problem with my D. In Arizona
> this is a definite problem. Based on the symptoms below does anyone
> know what my problem may be? Things to note, it does not have the
> original blue relay and it has been converted to 132a.
>
> Thank you all for your time in this.
>
> Symptoms
>
> ---Engine is cool (fans not on when air is off)---
> * At idle when the air conditioning is turned on the auxiliary fans
> and the compressor turn on and stay on.
> * At 2000 RPM when the air conditioning is turned on the fans and
> compressor cycle on and off in about one to two second intervals
>
> ---Engine is warm (fans are on when air is off)---
> * At idle when the air conditioning is turned on the auxiliary fans
> and the compressor turn on and stay on.
> * At 2000 RPM when the air conditioning is turned on the auxiliary
> fans and the compressor turn on and stay on.
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 04:11:58 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: thermostat
Refer to Workshop Manual A:01:01 General Data: Cooling System
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> At what temperature does the stock thermostat open?
>
> thanks,
> Adam
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 09:39:25 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Binnacle rattling (?)
Hi Richard
Here's a good example of why it's a good idea to sign posts with your
VIN# :-) The early cars, like mine, had problems with the binnacle
bouncing around when going over bumps. There's an article in the factory
updates manual about this, and later cars were fitted with a couple of
small brackets which clamp the front mounting points of the binnacle to
the steering column support bolts, directly next to them. I'm not sure
without checking what VIN's the update was installed at the factory, but
mine does not have these brackets. FWIW they'd be really easy to make -
no need to spend any hard-earned :-)
Or your binnacle could simply be coming loose.
I don't think it will have anything to do with the work your mechanic
has done down the front - the most baffling problems are usually
coincidences!
Martin
#1458
RJRavalli@xxxxxxx wrote:
>After getting my D back from the shop last week I've noticed another "minor" issue. When I hit certain roughness in the road I notice a rattling noise which seems to be coming from my binnacle--I've never noticed it before it happened in the past, but it seems to jump around a lot on its own. Now my mechanic did take off the front plate from underneath the car and cleaned off some rust. Could the rattling be coming from down there for some reason and vibrating up to my binnacle? Could it be something he forgot to tighten? Maybe something in the steering area got messed up from being off an on a lift for two weeks??
>
>I'm stumped--anyone ideas on what could cause what I'm describing?
>
>Thank you,
>
>Richard
>
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 04:24:02 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
From your description the compressor is running but I am assuming you
aren't getting sufficient cooling effect. Go back to whoever converted
you and have him check the system pressures. Your problem is not
electrical. If your compressor is running and you aren't getting
cooling the system isn't transferring heat which means the refrigerent
isn't absorbing the heat from the interior and moving it out to the
condensor coil, the problem is in the refrigeration part of the
system, I suspect you have a very low charge of Freon or maybe even
none and a misadjusted or defective low pressure switch, or a
possible bad compressor. It is best if you can stay with R-12. If you
can't there are drop-in alternatives that are a better choice than
what you have. You should be able to find a competant A/C shop in
Arizona, maybe James Espey could recomend one? He used to live there.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "vrvader" <dclark@xxxx> wrote:
> Air conditioning problem
> I have run into an air conditioning problem with my D. In Arizona
> this is a definite problem. Based on the symptoms below does anyone
> know what my problem may be? Things to note, it does not have the
> original blue relay and it has been converted to 132a.
>
> Thank you all for your time in this.
>
> Symptoms
>
> ---Engine is cool (fans not on when air is off)---
> * At idle when the air conditioning is turned on the auxiliary fans
> and the compressor turn on and stay on.
> * At 2000 RPM when the air conditioning is turned on the fans and
> compressor cycle on and off in about one to two second intervals
>
> ---Engine is warm (fans are on when air is off)---
> * At idle when the air conditioning is turned on the auxiliary fans
> and the compressor turn on and stay on.
> * At 2000 RPM when the air conditioning is turned on the auxiliary
> fans and the compressor turn on and stay on.
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 00:12:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Tester <scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Firestone Firehawk SS20s anyone?
Does anyone have experience with the Firestone Firehawk SS20 series tire? I've been looking for white lettered sidewalls on a tire, but Goodyear doesn't seem to make any that fit both the front and back.
Scott Tester scott(at)delorean(dot)com
_____________________________________________________________
It's not too late to get your 1/18 scale Diecast DeLorean model! To order, call 800/USA-DMC1 or visit our online store at http://www.delorean.com
_____________________________________________________________
Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with email@xxxxxxxxxxxxx by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 04:05:44 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Binnacle rattling (?)
It's hard enough when I have the car in front of me to find noises and
you want someone to tell you over the internet what is making a
particular noise!!!!! You are going to have to fix it the hard way,
looking at everything that could possibly rattle and maybe taking the
binnacle apart to track down the loose item. It could be the subpanel
for the wiper module-flasher-buzzer, a loose steering column, hardware
missing from inside the dash, you name it, it could cause rattling.
Chances are you always had the noise but never noticed it till after
you got the car back from the shop. It wouldn't hurt to go over the
front end suspension to make sure everything is tight, exessive
loosness in the front end will make any vibration worse. Removing
and replacing the plate under the gas tank should have nothing to do
with this but anything is possible, maybe the mechanic left a wrench
in there that is causing the noise? In some stubborn cases the best
advice is to make the radio louder.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, RJRavalli@xxxx wrote:
> After getting my D back from the shop last week I've noticed another
"minor" issue. When I hit certain roughness in the road I notice a
rattling noise which seems to be coming from my binnacle--I've never
noticed it before it happened in the past, but it seems to jump around
a lot on its own. Now my mechanic did take off the front plate from
underneath the car and cleaned off some rust. Could the rattling be
coming from down there for some reason and vibrating up to my
binnacle? Could it be something he forgot to tighten? Maybe
something in the steering area got messed up from being off an on a
lift for two weeks??
>
> I'm stumped--anyone ideas on what could cause what I'm describing?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Richard
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 14:59:59 -0000
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fall Foliage Tour Hotel info
The hotel info is now on file for the Fall tour and you can make your
reservations (and should).
Call 800 242-8689 our rate is $105 = tax and includes breakfast for
two.You must tell them that you are with the DeLorean group to get
this rate.
Note: The Hotel is sold out for this night! Our group has
less then 15 rooms left now and they are going
fast, also some people may have made reservations at a
different Marriott in the area.
We are at the Marriott Princeton Forrestal Village,
201 Village Blvd., Princeton NJ 08540
Again the number for this hotel is 1(800) 242-8689
Once you have made your reservation please e-mail me so I know who is
coming and how many rooms are left, I may need to make arraignments
with another hotel for more rooms.
Regards
Michael Deluca
DeLorean Fall Foliage Tour III
The DeLorean Fall Foliage Tour III will be October 19th & 20th in
New Jersey this year.
Please make your Hotel reservations immediately!
I only have 15 rooms on reserve at the Marriott in Princeton NJ
(800) 242-8689 We have a special group rate of $105 + tax (that
includes breakfast for two).
You must tell them that you are part of the DeLorean group to get
this rate.(You must make the reservations before Sept 27th to get
this rate).
Here is the Itinerary for this years Fall Tour (subject to changes
and updates).
The Tour starts at 11 AM at John DeLoreans former mansion in
Lamington NJ.
Some of the events planned are:
Tour of the JZD mansion.
DeLorean Tech Talk with Rob Grady.
DeLorean Detailing by David Teitelbaum.
DeLorean Racing Blindfolded.
Bring your own picnic lunch and beverage!
After dinner we will caravan to the Marriott in Princeton NJ (check
in).
Activities include the 80s retro club Polly Esthers at the hotel
(admission aprox $4 per person).
Sunday Oct 20th
Breakfast at the hotel
Check out
Caravan to New Hope PA (THIS IS A GREAT TOWN TO SPEND THE DAY)
Note: we will park on the NJ side at Lambertville station, parking is
approximately $5.00
PLEASE MAKE YOUR HOTEL RESERVATIONS ASAP!
More information and registration info to come in the next 2 weeks
Looking forward to seeing you all !
Regards,
Michael DeLuca
Vin 3113
NY Lic DLORIANN
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 16:05:18 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Documenting electrical modifications
Bill had a bad day yesterday, can you tell?
David T does bring up a good point. Deviations from stock wiring need
to be accurately documented. This is for your OWN benefit as much as a
future owner (assuming you ever sell the car). Do any of us really
remember what we did yesterday? The only thing worse than staring
clueless at an unintelligible rat's nest of confused wiring is staring
clueless at an unintelligible rat's nest of confused wiring you did
yourself.
My mods are literally appendixes to the factory wiring diagram -- each
circuit is drawn in large scale and inserted behind it in the tech
manual. This is also a case where more -- text descriptions of the
circuit, reference points to locate the circuit within the vehicle,
annotated thought processes, etc. I even mark long cable runs at
either end with flags on the wire that identify where it came from or
where it is going. My overall goal is to save myself time and
aggravation in the future.
FWIW: I find working on my D's electricals rather enjoyable. I never
realized how much easier access to the dash would be with gull wing
doors vs traditional hinges (just watch your head standing up). The
console is also an easy arm's length from either side (I work on my
car from the outside, kneeling in the driveway and reaching in). My
only real complaint is wiggle room in the relay compartment. JZD
must've had
very small hands.
Bill Robertson
#5939
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 16:51:01 -0000
From: "vrvader" <dclark@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
Thanks so far...
I believe the pressures are good as they checked them when it was
converted a month ago. They vacuumed out the system are recharged it.
I will check for the heat exchange. My concern was that the
compressor will not stay engaged but once it gets to the point that
the fans will stay on it seems to stay engaged. I do not know if it
makes a difference but there is an audible clicking from the relay
compartment every time the ac turns on or off.
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 20:04:09 -0000
From: "tp8534" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Firestone Firehawk SS20s anyone?
I have, Scott,
IMHO the Goodyear Eagle GT II beats it in every category. I
tried the Firehawks on my Porsche 944 before the Goodyears and the GT
II's seem to be quieter, they warm up faster, and they last longer.
Just my 2 cents....YMMV. Oh, BTW, you can get the White Letter Paint
in a roller-tube from J.C. Whitney for $6.95.
Matthew
VIN #10365
VIN #16816
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Scott Tester <scott@xxxx> wrote:
> Does anyone have experience with the Firestone Firehawk SS20 series
tire? I've been looking for white lettered sidewalls on a tire, but
Goodyear doesn't seem to make any that fit both the front and back.
>
> Scott Tester scott(at)delorean(dot)com
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 22:11:53 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean on Ebay
Here is the email I received from him
Deloreans letter stated that the 83 models had many changes opposed
to 81 and 82. In 83 this caused the retail price increase of 8,000
to 10,000 dollars also the vend number shows that this car was one
of the last five hundred manufactured. The low mileage also
increases the value. If the car doesnt meet reserve If your a
serious buyer call us at
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=1854991042&ind
> exURL=4&photoDisplayType=2#ebaylargephotohosting
>
> Any ideas on what the owner is referring to?
>
>
> "THIS 83 DELOREAN IS WRECKED IN THE FRONT, REMAINDER OF BODY IS IN
GOOD
> CONDITION. THIS DELOREAN COMESWITH A LETTER FROM JOHN DELOREAN
HIMSELF
> EXPLAINING THE ESTIMATED VALUE AND POSSABLE INCREASE IN VALUE OF
THIS
> SPECIFIC CAR. IN THE LETTER HE IS EXPLAINING THE RARENESS OF THIS
CAR WHICH
> CAN BE VALIDATED BY THE SERIAL NUMBERS."
>
> The VIN is SCEDT26T3DD016851
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 19:27:34 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: front coils for sale/trade
Hey all,
i just lowered my front end with Grady's front lowering springs. previously
my car was only equipped with Marty Maier's new shocks all around, but now i
have a lower front end, slightly lower rear, and great road handling. i love
the combination, and my car looks great!
so now, i have a good condition set of front coils. they are undamaged but
they could use a good sandblasting and powdercoating. they have 46K miles on
them as far as i know. if anyone has some weak or damaged coils, these will
be great for you.
i don't want much money for them but maybe someone has a book or some
literature or other parts for trade? email me and let's work something out!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 19:21:00 -0500
From: MPolzin@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Arm Rest Extension
Christian,
I might have a pair of them in storage, I will have to take a look though.
If you still need them let me know, I can take some pictures of them and
send them to you to see if you are interested.
Mike Polzin
-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sunday, September 01, 2002 12:58 PM
Subject: [DML] Arm Rest Extension
>I can't find a price on delorean.com for an armrest extension. I'm talking
>about the piece that is by your hip as you're sitting in the car. Are
>there any extras of these around? Does anyone want to sell me a pair?
>
>-Christian
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 03:05:40 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fall Tour and Caravanning
For all who plan on attending the Fall Tour I highly recomend
purchesing a Family Band Radio. You can get them in Radio Shack or
even your local Supermarket! Make sure it has channel 12 as that is
the one most of us use. It comes in very handy when travelling
together, it helps to keep everyone together and passes the time on
longer trips.
On the subject of caravanning I will be leaving the northern New
Jersey area with several other Deloreans so if anyone wants to
"hook-up" we can set up several meeting places. We have plenty of time
but you MUST reserve your room NOW.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 23:51:32 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Circuit Breakers, Fuses, and Bears, Oh My!
Bill and Group,
Fuses are used in resistive load applications most of the time and when
faster acting is required because when the light bulb turns on the load is
there and doesn't have to wind up to get there.
The circuit breaker is used in our application because we have inductive load
fans and the CB will handle the higher inrush current longer over a longer
period of time till the fans get up to running speed and drop back down.
But, they will heat up and open and close where a fuse won't. I just don't
like them because of that. You think it's a relay and it's really a CB. Pesky
little devils. While were on the subject. Try not to overrate them. If
anything try to go down in current and get a better action. I use fuses in
The Fan Fix because of faster acting and no overheating. Solder in the fuse
will melt at about 360 degrees and a CB will just site there and cook.
So much for CB Vs Fuses.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< f course circuit breakers and fuses are not *IDENTICAL*: they're
shaped differently, install differently, and one of them doesn't have
to be thrown away. But functionally, they are equivalent. In fact, I'd
argue that a fuse is even more sensitive, making it a better protector.
I wasn't in the DMC boardroom when the decision was made either, but
it is likely they decided to use a breaker in the fan circuit because:
1) Has anybody ever seen a 40 amp auto fuse?
2) The fuse box is full already
2) Resetable vs replaceable protection in the fan circuit could be a
perceived advantage (my own fan circuit has yet to give me problem
one, but that's another thread altogether) >>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 23:26:47 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
Dclark, The compressor will cycle
#1 Because of the freon being low.
#2. The low pressure switch may be bad.
#3. And most common. Because of the small passenger compartment, the air gets
cold fast and there isn't enough heated air to pass over the evaporator core
in the car so the LP switch is cutting on and off to keep the system from
freezing up. Turn the fan on 3 and it will normally slow down or put the mode
switch to normal and add a little heat and again it will slow the cycling.
Either way you will be cool and comfortable inside.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< I will check for the heat exchange. My concern was that the
compressor will not stay engaged but once it gets to the point that
the fans will stay on it seems to stay engaged. I do not know if it
makes a difference but there is an audible clicking from the relay
compartment every time the ac turns on or off.
>>
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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:24:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kelsey <phantomoftheopera_gk@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean on Ebay
The only things I can think about at all that would
make it a rare car is that it is an 83 with black
interior, and it is a late model. I have always
thought that most of the 83's were grey. That is just
my guess. The hood looks pretty standard for an 83,
i.e. the DeLorean emblem on the hood, and no hood
accent lines. As far as fixing that car up is
concerned, it doesn't look too bad to me. Two new
driver-side wheels and tires, new front fascia and all
needed with it (headlights, etc.), new front wiring
harness, new left front quarter panel, a little bit of
underbody repair where the owner says it needs it.
That doesn't sound like too bad a repair. Hell, maybe
even I could do that.
George
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