[DML] Digest Number 1152
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[DML] Digest Number 1152



Title: [DML] Digest Number 1152

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------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. headlight covers
           From: silvercrw646@xxxxxx
      2. Re: oil pressure
           From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
      3. RE: left fender availability
           From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      4. Re: RE: Pacific Rim and John Lane ( Short )
           From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
      5. Re: oil pressure
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      6. RE: THE ORIGINAL Specialty Automotive
           From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Re: Flashing (turn signal) side lights (thought #1)
           From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      8. Re: tachometer gone haywire?
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. Question Re: Taillight Mod
           From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
     10. Re: Trans fluid.
           From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     11. Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
           From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
     12. Touched a nerve? (High HP) Better close discussion & stay on group topic
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     13. RE: Darryl' AC fan mod
           From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     14. Re: RE: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take
           From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
     15. RE: tachometer gone haywire?
           From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     16. RE: Digest Number 1150
           From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     17. D for sale in Kalamazoo, MI
           From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
     18. Re: what kind of turbo?
           From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     19. aftermarket wheel sizing?
           From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
     20. Sunstar Gold DeLorean and American Express
           From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
     21. Re: Specialty Auto (was RE: Pacific Rim and John Lane ( Short ))
           From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     22. My DMC site has moved... for real this time.
           From: Grigor Maksudyan <delorean66@xxxxxxxxx>
     23. looking for custom  seat covers and floor mats
           From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxxxxx>
     24. Re: Touched a nerve? (High HP) Better close discussion & stay on group ...
           From: dherv10@xxxxxxx


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Message: 1
   Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 23:08:38 -0400
   From: silvercrw646@xxxxxx
Subject: headlight covers

Anyone have a pair of Lund Headlight smoked COvers that they want to sell. I am looking for a pair in Nice condition. Please let me know.

thanks
jon



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Message: 2
   Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 23:20:37 EDT
   From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: oil pressure

Scott, You should be running 20/40 or 20/50 oil in the car. With the proper
gauge the pressure should reasd a little below 80 and at a hot idle just a
little below the center line. I show the proper fit and range on the web
site.http://www.specialtauto.com/engine.shtml
John hervey


<< I just made a climate move from NC to Fla, and since then I have noticed a
peculiar problem.  When the car first starts, the oil pressure reads fine,
around 45-50..but after about 25 minutes of driving, it almost reads 0.  The
oil level is fine, and there aren't any major leaks...anyone else have a
problem like this? Is this possibly a faulty gauge?  Thanks!
 
 Scott
  >>



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Message: 3
   Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 22:52:09 -0700
   From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: left fender availability

"... he explained that it's the same for many (most?)
older/collectible cars - the left front fenders are the most likely damaged
in an accident (moreso than the right FF), and therefore there are less
available due to natural replacement demand. "

Sorry, but that story has little or no bearing on our cars.  In the nearly 17 years I have been selling DeLorean parts, the left front fender has always been the hardest to find and most expensive.  For whatever reason, not as many were made.  In 1987 I asked John himself about this, and he confirmed it.  Over the years I have sold a couple dozen of them, and the interesting part is that in the late 80's-early 90's I got lots of calls for them.  I suspect people were buying them to hoard rather than use, as I was selling them dirt cheap.  These days I get maybe one inquiry a year.  I think that casts doubt on the "more frequently damaged" theory.  And yes I still have some.

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
   Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 23:47:53 EDT
   From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: RE: Pacific Rim and John Lane ( Short )

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
Both sides have had their say, and there is obviously
a difference of opinion. Please take all further discussion
offline. 

Mike G   Moderator of the week
*****

Moderator, I would like to reply to Mr. Lanes message.
1st. If I have been a jerk to any one please email me and let me know. But I
don't believe I have and I alway's have tried to treat everyone fair. If you
will just listen to Mr. Lanes tone of voice coming back, you will understand
what I meant by not being able to instruct him on anything. He talked to my
builder and chewed him out and then the next day called back and was very
nice and understood the problem of hooking up only the brown / yellow wire.
Then we sent him another no charge and he did the same thing again. That was
when the customer let him have his way and he sold him another two wire that
he understood how to hook up. 
2nd. As everyone knows that the Ducy alternator ( was a two wire ) and the
upgraded Motorola was a ( one wire. ) Both are replaced by a one wire
activated regulator by me at Special T Auto.com, and all the other De Lorean
dealers in the U.S.
#3. As I stated earlier, If the instructions were read to only use one wire,
the Brown/Yellow, The customer would not have had to buy a $350.00 90 amps
alternator.

To all that have bought my alternators that are so bad. Please let me know if
you have any trouble with them. I have only sold about 100 high amp
alternators with only about 3 problems and two of those were handling by the
carrier. I also build High amp junk alternators for Mustangs, Chevys,
Chryslers, Honds and others and all the junk works. Were also working on a
junk design for the Listor Motor sport cars in the Uk.130 amp, 8000 rpm's.
Have a nice Day.
John Hervey
The only Special T Auto.com. on the Internet

   

<< >>I also had a bad experience with Mr. Lane, He didn't read the
instructions
 with the alternator I sold a person and he burned up two of them. He didn't
 hook up the brown/yellow light wire and burned up two regulators. It seems
nobody could tell him anything. He may be good on engines, but on other
things I would
 watch out.<< >>



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Message: 5
   Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 04:07:42 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: oil pressure

The first thing that comes to mind would be the oil isn't the correct
viscosity for the climate. Maybe it is time to change the oil? The
other possibility is a faulty oil pressure sender. The OEM unit isn't
well calibrated to the oil pressure gauge in the first place. Marty
Maier offers a very nice alternative and it seems to make the gauge
act properly. It is located next to the oil filter which should be
changed when you change the oil. You can always install a mechanical
gauge temporaraly to check the oil pressure. It is NOT GOOD to run
with 0 oil pressure. Rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1,000 RPM
starting with at least 15 psi.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Scott Cagle <sharkywtrs@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey everyone;
>
> I just made a climate move from NC to Fla, and since then I have
noticed a peculiar problem.  When the car first starts, the oil
pressure reads fine, around 45-50..but after about 25 minutes of
driving, it almost reads 0.  The oil level is fine, and there aren't
any major leaks...anyone else have a problem like this? Is this
possibly a faulty gauge?  Thanks!
>
> Scott
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> It's not too late to get your 1/18 scale Diecast DeLorean model! To
order, call 800/USA-DMC1 or visit our online store at
http://www.delorean.com
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with
email@xxxx by Everyone.net  http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag




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Message: 6
   Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 00:23:58 -0700
   From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: THE ORIGINAL Specialty Automotive

Marc asked: "what do you mean by "THE ORIGINAL"?  is someone trying to steal your name?"  I really don't want to start a thread here (or a rant), but I thought by now most of you had figured out what I meant by that.  I'll try to explain it as tactfully as possible (for me that's a stretch). 

For nearly 17 years I have been selling new and used DeLorean parts under the name Specialty Automotive.  I have gone to great lengths to give fast, reliable, personal service to my customers, and believe I have a fairly good reputation.  I had hoped to operate a full scale DeLorean restoration shop in addition to my mail-order business, but my divorce a few years ago and subsequent move to a tiny community many miles from the next DeLorean made that difficult.

Then all of a sudden there was a new player in the small DeLorean vendor world.  No problem, there is plenty of business for all.  Except for one minor thing - out of the blue he decided to call his business "Special T Auto".  I was curious why he picked that name, so I asked - the response was a curt "Its a free world" and a suggestion that I change my website address (which is not Specialty Automotive - never did quite figure that one out).  Now it still wouldn't have mattered a whole lot except for one problem.  I started getting customer complaints, something I really hadn't experienced before.  It seems that with names so similar, folks who were having problems assumed that the two businesses were related, and I guess hoped that I would intercede.  Others tried to return faulty parts that I had not sold them.  It became a major irritant, which has seemed to lessen somewhat as he became more familiar with the car and improved his service.

Don't take this wrong, I wish John all the success he earns.  His web page shows that he is putting a lot of effort into supplying more and more items.  I just wish he had chosen a more unique name for his business so that the customers were not confusing us.  My business is doing just fine, and I don't need his "help". 

But I do enjoy his frequent posts - they are usually good for a chuckle...except the fire extinguisher one, which was unbelieveably inappropriate.

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
   Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 10:06:12 +0100
   From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Flashing (turn signal) side lights (thought #1)

I'm surprised Jan hasn't come in on this... It's SO easy:

Disconnect the GROUND wire to the front marker light, and connect the
bulb's ground to the switched signal on the adjacent indicator.

That's it!

Quick explanation:

1) When the indicator is off, the +side is grounded. When it's flashing,
this alternates between +12 and ground (obviously)
2) The marker light's +side is grounded when switched off.
3) Because of (2) when the indicator is switched on, you pull the ground
side of the marker to +12v lighting the marker with the indicator
4) When headlights are on, the marker is grounded through the indicator
(1) and lights up as usual. When the indicator flashes ON, the marker
light turns OFF, as both of its connectors are taken to +12v.

A bulb doesn't care which way round the supply is connected. This takes
advantage of that and the fact that the relays/flashers ground their
outputs when off.

Martin
#1458


content22207 wrote:

>Never occurred to me (all my vehicles are 1981 or earlier -- front &
>rear flashers only). Is interesting idea however.
>





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Message: 8
   Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 04:11:17 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: tachometer gone haywire?

Before you go crazy looking for a relay, remove and clean all of the
wires connecting to the ground located on the frame inside by the
front left wheel. You will find it much easier to do if you jack up
the car and take the front left wheel off. If that doesn't help it
could be a bad connection inside the binnacle or possibly a bad tach.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxx> wrote:
> Can anybody tell me if there is a relay for the tachometer? Mine has
> been giving me trouble lately,sometimes not working or getting stuck
> at 4 thousand rpm's, Someone told me that it might be a relay.If
> anybody has an idea of what this could be please let me know
> thank you
> brian




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Message: 9
   Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 10:05:46 -0000
   From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Question Re: Taillight Mod

> Has anyone tried or has giving any  thoughts on installing
> side turning lights that can be mounted on the front
> fender or under the mirrors without drilling or major
> alterations?  I believe that these sides lights would
> be an excellent add on for safety.

I've mentioned this a couple of times before:
you can rewire the front side lights to act as both
side marker lights AND turnsignals...
Take a look at my message dated 28 june 2001 at
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/18378>

It's really THAT simple and keeps the car looking stock...
Good luck,

Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

--------------------------------




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Message: 10
   Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 02:53:32 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Trans fluid.

Hi Chris,
Do you have an owner's manual with your car?If not I
would highly recommend purchasing one because it
contains diagrams of the location of the oil filler
cap,where to top up tranny oil,brake fluid etc..It
would make finding things on the car easier.DMC
Houston sells repros of the manual I believe.
Andrew
VIN 2883
Australia
Can anyone tell me the exact
> location for the
> fill cap, filter, drain plug (if there even is one
> of these) for the
> transmission fluid?  Thanks, and sorry for the
> ignorance.
> -chris-
> VIN 10213
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com



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Message: 11
   Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 00:15:58 EDT
   From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Darryl's AC fan mod

Martin,  You said: below.

<< So let me get this strait: The DeLorean's AC system is unusual in that
 it cycles relatively rarely ( No all the time 4 to 5 seconds.)  - rarely
enough in fact to be worth turning  the fans on and off with the compressor -
correct? >>.( As you know the cooling fans cycle on and off as the compressor
does.)

It's my experience and a lot of others in the US. that when the air is on max
and the blower fan is on 2 or 3 the compressor will cycle every 4 or 5
seconds because of the small compartment space and the air movement over the
evaporator coil. All I said was, if we put the switch to normal and the fans
still on 2 or 3, the cycling time will be cut down several times because the
warmer air moving over the coil. Yes, We can re wire and move things around,
but the answer to all the cycling on and off may be at the touch of the hand
and the controls. Try it you may like it..
John Hervey
The only www.Special T Auto.com




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Message: 12
   Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 05:07:50 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Touched a nerve? (High HP) Better close discussion & stay on group topic

Appear to have touched a nerve. Apologies. Must be showing my age --
before the turn of the decade (1980 that is), only way to get that
kind of HP was to cam up the engine, jetison the mufflers, snort
massive air, etc. Technology must've past me by (I *am* driving a 21
year old DeLorean).
We'd better stay on group topic however or the moderators will start
leaving us nasty notes.

On a totally unrelated topic, thanks for info Re: LED bulb arrays and
shipping tires. Won't have to worry about melting my rear light
housings now. Haven't begun search for card edge connectors yet (would
like to insert mod before stock taillight board) -- anyone already
located a source of proper size prototyping boards and sockets to mate
to DeLorean's?

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 13
   Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 23:11:21 -0700
   From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Darryl' AC fan mod

>>Does the Fanzilla affect the fan vs. AC cycling? Or would this still be a
good modification to do even if you have a Fanzilla installed?

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 02:03 PM 8/6/02 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi John
>
>Darryl's mod makes the fans run continuously when the AC is on, but
>allows the compressor to cycle normally.<<

To add to what others have responded, the modification described in my article is an inexpensive way to get nearly the same result as using the Fanzilla.  What it does is split the two fans onto two separate relays, reducing the load on each.  What you do not get is sequential startup of the two fans.  It does not affect the AC compressor cycling.  The cost is only for an additional standard relay. 

For the record, I did not develop this simple modification.  I first heard about it from former PNDC member Harold McElrath, and have used it on most of my cars with great success.  All I did was edit his description and submit it to the Zine.

But hey, I'll take all the free advertising I can get.

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com
  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
   Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 23:56:44 EDT
   From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: RE: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take

See, Darrly we can agree, That's what I said also. Damm I'm happy :-)
John Hervey
Special T auto.com

<< The weak point, as I found out the hard way, is the splined coupler
between the transmission input shaft and mainshaft. >>



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Message: 15
   Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 08:56:22 -0400
   From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: tachometer gone haywire?

If you have taken the binnacle off at any time this could have caused a
problem as well. If you don't get the electrical connection in the back
seated all the way you'll get a "wacky tach." When I hit a bump it would
spin around 360 degrees, stick in one position, or just not work at all. It
was not only wacky, but zany and a little kooky as well.

> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 18
>    Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 20:11:25 -0000
>    From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: tachometer gone haywire?
>
> Can anybody tell me if there is a relay for the tachometer? Mine has
> been giving me trouble lately,sometimes not working or getting stuck
> at 4 thousand rpm's, Someone told me that it might be a relay.If
> anybody has an idea of what this could be please let me know
> thank you
> brian
>



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Message: 16
   Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 08:59:40 -0400
   From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Digest Number 1150

Have you ever replaced your oil pressure sender? As I understand it they
were never quite right coming off the line and (I think) the gauge is not
calibrated correctly for that particular sender. If you haven't replaced it,
I'd do that... it's easy to do and it's only about $30.

Mine read 80 psi all the time, except when I turned that car off. So, I
replaced the sender and the sensor to make sure I would always get an
accurate reading.

> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 17
>    Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 12:34:36 -0700 (PDT)
>    From: Scott Cagle <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: oil pressure
>
> Hey everyone;
>
> I just made a climate move from NC to Fla, and since then I have noticed a
> peculiar problem.  When the car first starts, the oil pressure reads fine,
> around 45-50..but after about 25 minutes of driving, it almost reads 0.
> The oil level is fine, and there aren't any major leaks...anyone else have
> a problem like this? Is this possibly a faulty gauge?  Thanks!
>
> Scott
>
>



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Message: 17
   Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 14:05:52 -0000
   From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: D for sale in Kalamazoo, MI

In the most recent issue of the local Auto Trader, there is an 81
Delorean for sale.  They say it is in excellent condition, its got
the grooved hood, and from the photo looks nice.  It is for sale
through a used car dealer.  Asking price is $12,500.  Contact info is
below

KC's Budget Auto
Kalamazoo, Michigan
616-341-9994

If anyone is interested, I can check it out for you.  Just let me know


erik
04512




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Message: 18
   Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 09:05:31 -0700
   From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: what kind of turbo?

Bruce,

I run heavy water injection  in my single turbo car.  I inject onto the
compressor wheel in the hopes that the water would be atomized there and
cool the entire intake track into the engine as well as helping to control
preignition.  I monitor the intake manifold temperature and see it drop
dramatically with extended boost, as when climbing a long steady hill.  When
I run out of water, performance drops and preignition immediatly shows up.
At first I used a boost pressure switch to initiate water flow but found it
was to little too late.  Now I have a throttle plate microswitch that is set
to immediatly get the water flowing any time I give it enough throttle to
get positive boost.  It seems to have worked well for the last ten years and
the plugs always look good.  I have not had anything apart to check on
carbon deposits.  BTY I use Mobile 1 sinthetic oil.  I have eliminated the
cat and run a single transverse glasspack muffler.  Only on one occasion
have I noticed exhaust smoke on startup.  I will start trying to monitor it
better and report in the future.

Don Ekhoff
2097
----- Original Message -----
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] what kind of turbo?


> Any oil introduced to the combustion chamber will create a carbon build up
> on the valves, pistons, and cylinder head. The results will be an increase
> in the compression ratio and a tendency to create pre-ignition because of
> the retained heat in the carbon deposits. Both are arch ememies of
> turbocharged cars.
>
> Bruce Benson
>
>
> >He maintained that if you read the
> > label and it stated that it was refined from "paraffin based" crude that
> it
> > would burn clean (like a candle).  I didn't question it at the time but
it
> > seemed to work just fine.  Maybe it would work equally well for our oil
> > burning turbo cars now?
> >
> > Don Ekhoff
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>





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Message: 19
   Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 12:35:06 -0400
   From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: aftermarket wheel sizing?

I have seen quite a few pictures of Deloreans with aftermarket wheels on them. Due to the lack of high performance tires available for our cars I am thinking of getting some. The problem is that I do not know what manufactures makes a wheel style that will fit the way I want. I'd like to keep the rear a little larger and wider than the front and the more visible dish the better.  So what diameter, width, and offset would I need.

Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
   Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 15:13:39 -0500
   From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Sunstar Gold DeLorean and American Express

Just learned today that American Express declined the request of Sunstar to
mention their name on the packaging of their new gold DeLorean model. No
details were given, but it seems that the model will now just be marketed as
"DeLorean Special Gold Edition". I hope to have photos of the sample up on
the site this evening. Looks really cool, but I'm disappointed that AMEX
feels differently...

James Espey
NOTE OUR NEW ADDRESS/PHONE NUMBERS
DeLorean Motor Company
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396

281/441-2537 Voice
281/441-2813 Fax
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com




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Message: 21
   Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 19:03:12 -0000
   From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Specialty Auto (was RE: Pacific Rim and John Lane ( Short ))

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
A quick search for "specialty auto" from google turns up
over 2800 hits, and searching the yellow pages in Minnesota
alone came up with 9 hits.  Neither name is unique, and it is
unfortunate that we have two active vendors in the DeLorean
community with very similar names for their businesses. This
is a subject that John and Darryl need to work out between
themselves, since business name changes are a very big deal.
With this in mind, I am going to end this discussion until
Darryl and John want to solicit input from the list.

Mike G  Moderator of the Week
*****


John,
Darryl has been around sine the mid 80's selling Delorean parts
under the Specialty Auto name. He may not have not gotten on the web
with an online store until recently but his name and business has
been around quite some time now..how long has your buissnes been
around with that name? Just because you decided the drop the "Y" out
of Specialty doesn't mean it's an original name. I can understand if
Darryl may be irate. When I first heard of Specialty Auto I thought
the two were the same company until I started to hear differently
from other Delorean vendors and people in the Delorean community. I
don't know why you chose to have similar names (lack of
originality?) but that's your business. I mean how would it look if
I opened up a Delorean parts business and decided to call
it "Delorean Motor Coach of Houston" (DMC Houston) or P.G Grady? I
don't think it would go over very well as both parties would get
extremely Irate and possibly take legal action against me. What I'm
saying is have some originality and come up with YOUR unique name
that you can build YOUR reputation on. As it is now I can guarantee
you that there are some Delorean owners out there who are NOT on the
DML think that You and Darryl are one and the same when the hear the
name.

Steve

P.S Yes I know it's a free country and people can do as they wish so
spare me that quote.

<SNIP>
>Have a nice Day.
> John Hervey
> The only Special T Auto.com. on the Internet
>
>    
>
> << >>I also had a bad experience with Mr. Lane, He didn't read the
> instructions
>  with the alternator I sold a person and he burned up two of them.
He didn't
>  hook up the brown/yellow light wire and burned up two regulators.
It seems
> nobody could tell him anything. He may be good on engines, but on
other
> things I would
>  watch out.<< >>




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Message: 22
   Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 15:38:52 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Grigor Maksudyan <delorean66@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: My DMC site has moved... for real this time.


[The previous time that I announced the news on the DML about my site, a day later Angelfire "accidentally" deleted my pages. Afterwards, they apologized and told me it wouldn't happen again. So if it's ok with you guys, I would like to post this message one last time. Thanks.]

Just wanted to say that my website has been updated and also moved to the new address: http://www.deloreans.cjb.net/

The site is designed in 1024x768 resolution, so for all those who use 800x600 the site will not display correctly in various places, that is, until I have time to correct it.

It is on Angelfire, so when you get the pop-up ad, just minimize the pop-up window instead of closing it, so it won't come up every time you change the page.

Also, if your website is not listed in my Links section, e-mail me and I will be glad to post it up. Bring 'em on!! :-)

Thanks a lot guys -- Hope you like the site.

Grigor - Greg's DeLorean Site
http://www.deloreans.cjb.net/

P.S. Make sure you sign the guestbook!!!!!



---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
   Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 01:18:57 -0000
   From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxxxxx>
Subject: looking for custom  seat covers and floor mats

Does anybody know where a good place to buy custom floor mats and
seat covers ? If you do drop me a line please.

thank you

Brian
bfreyguy@xxxxxxx




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Message: 24
   Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 22:23:23 EDT
   From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Touched a nerve? (High HP) Better close discussion & stay on group ...

Bill, I'm sure your aware of the LED tail lights. I did quite a bit of study
on them about 6 to 8 months ago and found them lacking for the De Lorean
lenses. Maybe with two in parallel they would work fine. I still have my
samples and could be adapted to the board very easy. I may still have the
photo's I pulled off the web site.
John Hervey



<< LED bulb arrays and
 shipping tires. Won't have to worry about melting my rear light
 housings now. Haven't begun search for card edge connectors yet (would
 like to insert mod before stock taillight board) -- anyone already
 located a source of proper size prototyping boards and sockets to mate
 to DeLorean's?
 
 Bill Robertson
 #5939 >>



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