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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: D in another Magazine!
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Defrost Switch internals please....
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Re: left fender - another version
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: replacement air duct (was: Question about steel bottle)
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Cooling Fan doesnt kick on - SOMETIMES
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Question about steel bottle
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Question about steel bottle
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
12. DOC- UK site update
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: what some people will do......!!
From: "dursman" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Trans fluid.
From: "dursman" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. courtesy light problem solved/Masters Tennis Tournament
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
16. Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Cooling Fan doesnt kick on - SOMETIMES
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Re: Question about steel bottle
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Question about steel bottle
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Trans fluid.
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
22. How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
23. Re: Trans fluid.
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
24. RE: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??
From: "dursman" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 23:06:20 EDT
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: D in another Magazine!
In a message dated 8/5/02 9:53:53 PM Central Daylight Time, Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx
writes:
> <SNIP> Pick up a copy of Source magazine. </SNIP>
>
> I found their website with the picture.
> http://www.source.ie/is31edit.html
>
>
>
I don't remember exactly who's car this is, but the picture was taken at
the exhibition hall in Belfast at last years Delorean Concours event in
Ireland.
Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 23:06:03 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Defrost Switch internals please....
Kevin, If you can't get it back together, Send it to me and I will reassemble
it. As for all the other people on the list, I advise not to take it apart or
even take the cap off. It's tricky to put back together, but that's why I get
the big bucks to clean and adjust it and the window switches. Kevin, I can
supply a picture,but most of the time with out the tools, you can't put it
back together.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
<< I accidentally opened up my rear defroster switch while re installing my
center console, and some of the internal "guts" of the switch got
jumbled up and are now loose.
Can anyone provide a GOOD digital picture or diagram of the inside of
the switch so that I can fix mine?
Here is a picture of what I have in front of me to work with.please help
if you can!
http://www.abato.net/defswitch.jpg
Thanks!!
Kevin Abato
>>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 23:08:04 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: left fender - another version
I was talking with a good-friend's-sister's-husband who is in the A/C
business, and knows next-to-nothing about the Delorean. When I mentioned
there were only a few parts that are no longer available, his first and
immediate comment was "let me guess - the left front fender". I asked
how he knew that.. and he explained that it's the same for many (most?)
older/collectible cars - the left front fenders are the most likely damaged
in an accident (moreso than the right FF), and therefore there are less
available due to natural replacement demand. I have no way of verifying if
this is true or not, but certainly sounds feasible.
-Hank
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 23:23:37 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
Martin, The reason they cycle the most is temperature. If you don't move
enough warm air over the evaporator core in the car the low pressure switch
will protect the system by shutting the compressor off. Here in Texas with
90+ degree weather we or should I say I don't have the problem. Also, Don't
run it on maximum, and add a little outside air with the blower motor and run
the car on Normal. Normally that will slow it down as long as it isn't low on
freon.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
<< My AC is a bit low on R12 and I didn't like how hard it was hammering
the fan relay. I remembered seeing this article and realising that my
Xantia runs its fans continuously when the AC is on, I wondered why the
DeLorean's cycles continuously? Anyone?
>>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 03:26:02 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....
John Hervey (Special T Auto) will clean & reassemble for $15.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> I accidentally opened up my rear defroster switch while re installing my
> center console, and some of the internal "guts" of the switch got
> jumbled up and are now loose.
>
> Can anyone provide a GOOD digital picture or diagram of the inside of
> the switch so that I can fix mine?
>
> Here is a picture of what I have in front of me to work with.please help
> if you can!
> http://www.abato.net/defswitch.jpg
>
>
> Thanks!!
>
> Kevin Abato
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 22:17:29 -0500
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: replacement air duct (was: Question about steel bottle)
> Do you have to remove the metal "air tube"
> If so, what do you replace it with?
I replaced my original with a black one from AutoZone (simply because I
couldn't keep the metal looking as nice as I wanted and it rubbed on my
engine cover a bit).
I can't remember the brand name of the replacement air duct, but it was
packaged in a yellow rectangular box that looked deceptively short (the
thing expands once you get it out and bend it to the shape you need). Just
remove your old one and take it into AutoZone with you to match the size.
_________________
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681 (Nov 81)
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 05:22:06 -0000
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cooling Fan doesnt kick on - SOMETIMES
Just replaced the radiator on my Delorean (actually the entire
cooling system in the front, radiator, and hoses)...
Anyhow... while it was sitting in my drive way, it hit the 220 mark,
and the fan didn't come on... it then kept heating up.... so I turned
the engine off...
I turned the air on, which I understand is supposed to FORCE the
front fans on, and it didn't....
Next day, I went out.... the fans kicked on at 218 or so, and when
the air was on, the fans came on....
Then again today... same thing, they didn't function on either...
Is this a common problem, and if so, what do I do to fix it?
I would have thought it was a temp sensor.... but beings it doesn't
kick on with the AC I assume it's a relay or something?
Any help appreciated.... thanks.
Mike
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 05:49:25 -0000
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question about steel bottle
couldn't this have easily been the cap not holding pressure as
well? Especially since the bottle had no visable leak though
since you only tested the bottle under the tap maybe it was.
Justr wanted to remind everyone to check the caps as well. Had
a cap fail on my 20 year old Mercedes this morning. A cheap part
to keep in the car or just replace as well especially at this age.
Jeremy
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Yep, it happened to me. I was on the highway at night and
steam started
> pouring out of the back of my car. It actually reminded me of the
steam
> that shot out of the BTTF car, but I digress. I had the car towed
home,
> took the header bottle out, and couldn't find a crack. I took it
inside
> and poured water in it, and it held water fine (remember
though, it wasn't
> under pressure). Since it looked like hell, I decided to put a
stainless
> bottle in. Swapping the bottles did the trick and now the coolent
system
> holds pressure.
>
> Just one of my misadventures.
>
> -Christian
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 05:55:59 -0000
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question about steel bottle
this raises the question if you dont install the self-bleeder AND
replace with the steel bottle AND the coolient boils what other
problems are you opening up. Since the plastic bottle would
break under these circumstances and the steel wont might this
open up more expensive reapirs elsewhere in the system?
Could this be a reason that cars in the $100,000 range still use
plastic bottles as a means of protecting more sensitive
components?
Jeremy
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> Both Stephen Strelczak and Chris Parnham have
independently had theirs explode as a
> result of the fans not kicking in, and not having self-bleeder
kits. I'm guessing the
> coolant boils in the lines creating a bubble in the water pump,
stopping it working.
> here
> > somewhere)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 09:27:23 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....
Hi Kevin
You won't get it back together without separating the base bit from the
casing. It'll probably come more apart before you can reassemble it!
Okay, quick explanation which will make more sense when you have it
fully apart: That little bar goes underneath the two hooks on the right
of your picture. The little plate sits kind of diagonally in the centre
of the switch - in its current state you won't be able to get it back
in. I did exactly what you did and it took me about two hours with a
pair of needle-nosed pliers and a strong light to work it out! (I had
the TV on at the time :-)
This is a prime example of someone saying "well it works, so let's make
it", instad of making sure it was properly designed.
Martin
#1458
Kevin Abato wrote:
>I accidentally opened up my rear defroster switch while re installing my
>center console, and some of the internal "guts" of the switch got
>jumbled up and are now loose.
>
>
>http://www.abato.net/defswitch.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 08:54:20 -0000
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....
--- Kevin Abato wrote:
> I accidentally opened up my rear defroster switch while
> re installing my center console, and some of the internal
> "guts" of the switch got jumbled up and are now loose.
>
> Can anyone provide a GOOD digital picture or diagram
> of the inside of the switch so that I can fix mine?
Don't know if it's any good, but there's one in the Files-section:
<groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/DefrosterSwitch.pdf>
Hope this helps,
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 12:36:48 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DOC- UK site update
Hi All
Apologies it's taken so long. When you see the volume of photos I had to
deal with, you'll know why (new camera with 64Mb card!). There are more
than 130 new photos on the site including my colleciton from Memphis,
plus our own "Supercar weekend". Five new additions to Club Cars, and
the fourth page on the resurrection of 1458 and 2727 is finally wrapped
up as #2727 finally leaves the Diesel Centre under its own steam. I've
also added an FAQ (mainly aimed at us UK owners and the questions we get).
Follow the "news" link as usual
www.delorean.co.uk
Martin
#1458
DOC UK Webmaster
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 12:04:54 -0000
From: "dursman" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: what some people will do......!!
That car looks great. Just wanted to tell you. Anything else you
have planned or is it 100% finished? Keep up the good work.
-chris-
VIN 10213
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxx> wrote:
> I just felt you had to see this, over the weekend I have replaced
the fans,
> fan cowl and radiator on my car. Previous to this the car did not
have a fan
> cowl but some wacky welding of metal strips and two odd fans. I've
added
> the shots to the end of my site.
>
>
> Cheers
> Paul & Mel
> #6463
>
> www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 12:08:45 -0000
From: "dursman" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Trans fluid.
Okay, it seems as if my car is leaking somewhere. I don't think it
is the oil, not the coolant, and I think it is the trans fluid. My
problem is this... (please don't laugh)... I don't know where to fill
it up. The leak is nothing major, but over the years I think enough
has dripped out to be effecting my shifting... so it needs to be
topped off or changed. Can anyone tell me the exact location for the
fill cap, filter, drain plug (if there even is one of these) for the
transmission fluid? Thanks, and sorry for the ignorance.
-chris-
VIN 10213
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 08:55:05 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: courtesy light problem solved/Masters Tennis Tournament
About a week ago I posted about the courtesy light problem I was having but
failed to mention the circumstances. In Memphis all of my lights worked
(door lights and the dome lights front and back) When I went to get my car
after the dinner Saturday night I flipped the kill switch and had no door
lights. Oh well I blew a fuse I thought.
I tried the dome lights and they worked. Well nix the fuse theory.
Last week the dome lights went out but I still felt I had a door light
problem even if it was just a fuse so I posted.
Matt responded just change the fuse. Well the fuse was toast and I did
replace it but still no door lights.
I have no need to disconnect the door lights since I have a kill switch but
something told me to do it anyway.
Sure enough someone at Graceland must have disocnnected my lights to save the
battery. I never drove my car that morning. Others pulled it in and parked
it and opened it up so at least someone was trying to keep me from having
starting problems. The person that parked my car would never have known I
had a kill switch and some quick thinking DeLorean owner saw my lights on
and decided to save my battery.
So here's a thanks to whomever disconnected it. The investigation into the
problem was interesting. I even reconnected my buzzer. That may get undone
again.
I have been attending the Masters Series Tennis Tournament in Cincinnati this
week. Even made it on TV last week for the Seniors.
My DeLorean has been my means of transportation to and from the show so I
have driven my car everyday for about a week now and each time I drive into
the place the car gets a lot of looks and fingers being pointed at it.
While there are tons of Mercedes (They Sponsor the event) the DeLorean gets a
lot of people swarming to it especially when the doors open.
One girl in the parking lot wouldn't let us go the one night she just looked
the car over and over. (who said its not a Chick magnet) tons of guys also
and lots of BTTF humor. Anyway we are enjoying the car as much as the
tournament.
Just passed 6,500 miles
Ken
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 14:03:08 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
Hi John
Darryl's mod makes the fans run continuously when the AC is on, but
allows the compressor to cycle normally. Hell, I could make this a
plug'n'play solution :-) Does anyone know why there's that bizarre
"removable link" in the orange/pink feed to the evaporator - you can see
it in the passenger footwell. You pull the feed from this and use it
(via the diode) to run the fan relay. This places the "drive" for the
fans up-stream of the low pressure switch.
Martin
#1458
dherv10@xxxxxxx wrote:
>Martin, The reason they cycle the most is temperature. If you don't move
>enough warm air over the evaporator core in the car the low pressure switch
>will protect the system by shutting the compressor off.
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 14:12:28 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan doesnt kick on - SOMETIMES
Hi Mike
Go to the relay compartment. On the lower left hand side (front right in
the car's perspective) there's a blue socket. This should have 2 or
three wires in it instead of a relay. If you have the blue fan fail
module, this is most likely the culprit. Otherwise it may well be the
relay next to it, which drives the fans and is not really strong enough
to be reliable (esp after 20 years!). Both of these are fixed by the
FanZilla and/or John Hervey's FanFix. (or a bit of creative re-wiring
and a hoffing big relay etc etc.)
Actually it's worth pointing anyone to the article by Darryl Tinnerstet
in the first edition of the 'Zine here
ftp://dmcnews.com/pub/zine001.pdf
Apart from being a very good tech article on re-wiring the fans to have
individual relays, it includes a very useful layout diagram of all the
relays. I refer to it regularly.
Martin
#1458
iqmpike wrote:
>I turned the air on, which I understand is supposed to FORCE the
>front fans on, and it didn't....
>
>Next day, I went out.... the fans kicked on at 218 or so, and when
>the air was on, the fans came on....
>
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 14:14:58 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Question about steel bottle
I'd just keep an eye on my fans and make sure they work :-) I use the
fan-fail light to tell me they're running, and my temp guage works too.
Martin
#1458
jeremys_im wrote:
>this raises the question if you dont install the self-bleeder AND
>replace with the steel bottle AND the coolient boils what other
>problems are you opening up. Since the plastic bottle would
>break under these circumstances and the steel wont might this
>open up more expensive reapirs elsewhere in the system?
>Could this be a reason that cars in the $100,000 range still use
>plastic bottles as a means of protecting more sensitive
>components?
>
>Jeremy
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 13:28:24 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....
Call up Rob Grady at PJ Grady and ask him to fax/mail you a copy of
the directions to re-assemble it. I did just the same as you..I
opened it and "pop" everything was on the floor. I got the
directions from Rob and was able to put everything back together
again in a few minutes.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> I accidentally opened up my rear defroster switch while re
installing my
> center console, and some of the internal "guts" of the switch got
> jumbled up and are now loose.
>
> Can anyone provide a GOOD digital picture or diagram of the inside
of
> the switch so that I can fix mine?
>
> Here is a picture of what I have in front of me to work
with.please help
> if you can!
> http://www.abato.net/defswitch.jpg
>
>
> Thanks!!
>
> Kevin Abato
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 13:54:04 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question about steel bottle
Coolant bottles are not designed to break. If excess pressure builds
in the cooling system for whatever reason (overheating or lack of
expansion), it is the job of the radiator cap to relieve the
pressure. Cooling system test kits will not only test the cooling
system on a car to insure that there are no leaks, but will also test
radiator caps to insure that they will open @ the appropriate
pressure.
Why don't $100K cars use plastic bottles? I don't know, because I
don't own one (although my D certainly looks it ;) ). If I were to
guess, I'd say because those kind of cars are not in the same class
as DeLoreans are. Not to say that one is either better or worse. But
expensive collector cars in this range are usually not driven quite
as often as DeLoreans, if at all. Hence concern for originality of
the vehicle is placed ahead of function. There is more that could
probably be said, but anything else would simply be speculation on my
part.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail@xxxx> wrote:
> this raises the question if you dont install the self-bleeder AND
> replace with the steel bottle AND the coolient boils what other
> problems are you opening up. Since the plastic bottle would
> break under these circumstances and the steel wont might this
> open up more expensive reapirs elsewhere in the system?
> Could this be a reason that cars in the $100,000 range still use
> plastic bottles as a means of protecting more sensitive
> components?
>
> Jeremy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 13:56:14 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Trans fluid.
Hi,
Assuming you have a 5 speed tranny, the filler screw is on the
passenger side of the tranny. The drain plug is on the bottom of the
tranny.
Erik
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dursman" <dursman@xxxx> wrote:
> Okay, it seems as if my car is leaking somewhere. I don't think it
> is the oil, not the coolant, and I think it is the trans fluid. My
> problem is this... (please don't laugh)... I don't know where to
fill
> it up. The leak is nothing major, but over the years I think
enough
> has dripped out to be effecting my shifting... so it needs to be
> topped off or changed. Can anyone tell me the exact location for
the
> fill cap, filter, drain plug (if there even is one of these) for
the
> transmission fluid? Thanks, and sorry for the ignorance.
> -chris-
> VIN 10213
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 10:30:47 -0400
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??
Hello all, I am planning on building my stock motor for high performance. I am curious as to if any of you know what kind of Horsepower and torque the tranny will take, I once heard 275. I am not the pop the clutch at 5,000rpm kind of guy and am very smooth driver so is 300 too much what about 350, and 400? Also, I know I can get a centerforce clutch, what kind of power will that take before it starts to slip? Are there any other clutches you know of. And one last thing, will the chassis be able to cope with this. Thanks in advance.
Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 15:41:29 -0000
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Trans fluid.
--- "dursman" wrote:
> Can anyone tell me the exact location for the fill cap,
> filter, drain plug (if there even is one of these) for the
> transmission fluid? Thanks, and sorry for the ignorance.
Do you have an auto or manual box?
Makes a lot of difference...
If memory serves me right, an auto has an extra dipstick for
the ATF somewhere near the front fire wall in the engine
compartment and has a separate final drive, while the
manual has the final drive and gears combined...
Hope this helps,
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:11:40 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Darryl's AC fan mod
I noticed on later cars there is both a high and low pressure switch (But it is near the condenser).. While working on 01860 I saw the plug and jumper your speaking of. I assumed this was for the intended high pressure switch. Nothing was broken, so I did not mess with it. :)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Martin Gutkowski [mailto:webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 9:03 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [DML] Darryl's AC fan mod
>
>
> Hi John
>
> Darryl's mod makes the fans run continuously when the AC is on, but
> allows the compressor to cycle normally. Hell, I could make this a
> plug'n'play solution :-) Does anyone know why there's that bizarre
> "removable link" in the orange/pink feed to the evaporator -
> you can see
> it in the passenger footwell. You pull the feed from this and use it
> (via the diode) to run the fan relay. This places the "drive" for the
> fans up-stream of the low pressure switch.
>
> Martin
> #1458
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 17:30:49 -0000
From: "dursman" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??
Casey,
I believe the stock trans will hold 250 hp with out a big problem,
maybe 300 if you are careful. Good luck getting 400 hp out of our
cars though. If you do that I know a lot of guys that would come
asking for your help. This is for the manual transmission. And I
would think that the upgraded Centerforce would hold as much power as
the transmission (250 without a problem). Good luck.
-chris-
VIN 10213
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all, I am planning on building my stock motor for high
performance. I am curious as to if any of you know what kind of
Horsepower and torque the tranny will take, I once heard 275. I am
not the pop the clutch at 5,000rpm kind of guy and am very smooth
driver so is 300 too much what about 350, and 400? Also, I know I can
get a centerforce clutch, what kind of power will that take before it
starts to slip? Are there any other clutches you know of. And one
last thing, will the chassis be able to cope with this. Thanks in
advance.
>
> Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1@xxxx
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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