Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: New Delorean commercial!
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: The New Delorean
From: "Kurt" <markurbec@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Turbo DeLorean
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
4. delayed acceleration problem
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Re: door handle installation
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: Sunstar's 1/18 DeLorean Model
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Re: a few tech questions
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
8. Re: Losing brake pressure....Sometimes???
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: a few tech questions
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re: SEDOC Cruise-In
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: (unknown)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: delayed acceleration problem
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
13. Re: delayed acceleration problem
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
14. motor oil and gas - recommended?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
15. very high idle
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
16. Re: a few tech questions
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
17. Re: Losing brake pressure....Sometimes???
From: Felix S <melvnhel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: delayed acceleration problem
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
19. Re: New Delorean commercial!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
20. Re: Failed Drive Belts.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
21. Update: West Coast DeLorean/Bricklin Celebration
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
22. Re: door handle installation
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
23. Re: Re: delayed acceleration problem
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
24. RE. Door Handle Installation & Air Con R134a
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
25. Is a worn fuel pump causing my engine to die??
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 18:55:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New Delorean commercial!
A good site to keep your eye on is adcritic.com. They have all sorts of
television commercials, and I'm sure they'll have the DeLorean one once
it's out (or possibly before). I just did a quick search and found no
results for "DeLorean".
-Christian
On Wed, 8 Aug 2001 jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> I just returned from a local cruise night and met a person who claims
> his son, who works on commercials, recently worked on a commercial
> shoot with John Delorean promoting his new car! I can only assume this
> man was telling the truth as I don't know what reason he would have to
> lie. If this IS true then watch for it to come out soon as when people
> spend the kind of bucks involved they generaly go all the way and have
> the funds needed to air the commercial. If anyone in the list sees it
> please try to videotape it to share with the rest of the list. I
> believe if JZD really does pull off getting another car into
> production then the value of the ORIGIONAL Delorean will jump up only
> because the new one will cost much more than what used "D"'s are going
> for now so they will look like bargains!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 21:19:33 -0500
From: "Kurt" <markurbec@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The New Delorean
www.deloreantime.com will answer all of your questions.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Pike" <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 11:17 PM
Subject: [DML] The New Delorean
> Are there any pictures of the possible new delorean?
>
> I wanna see it.... is it stainlesS? Gull wing?
>
> I heard it will go for about 45K, but also heard 130K.
>
> mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 22:22:40 EDT
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Turbo DeLorean
He didn't make the claim on that site, he made it on eBay, where he was
selling the car. I think the auction ended already.
John Feldman
VIN 4275
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:23:19 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: delayed acceleration problem
I'm having a weird acceleration problem that I need some help diagnosing.
When I accelerate, the engine hesitates for 2 or 3 seconds before it really
starts to develop horsepower. It makes no difference whether I am driving
or sitting with the transmission in park. Having the engine hot or cold
makes no difference either.
When in park, I slowly press the accelerator and the RPMs increase
accordingly. After about 2 seconds into this procedure, the RPMs will jump
up considerably as though something was holding the engine back and then let
go.
I get the same problem while leaving a stop light. The car seems to
hesitate until I get to about the middle of the intersection where it
finally really decides to take off.
I thought it might be my idle speed microswitch sticking, but giving it a
quick ear test, it clicks off with the slightest movement of the throttle.
I'll ohm it out later to be sure.
Otherwise, I'm thinking that maybe my idle speed motor may be sticking or
running too slow. Is this likely?
Another thought might be that something might be going wrong with the spark
curve in my distributor. But I'm not experienced enough to know the best
place to start looking. So help! Please!
Could this problem be voltage related? I have a new Optima battery and a
140 amp alternator, but the alternator doesn't really start putting out
voltage until my RPMs increase from idle. Maybe this is the problem? I
need RPMs to get RPMs?
Another idea is that maybe my spark coil is weak and needs the higher
voltage associated with the higher RPMs to make it work at peak performance?
Also, I just noticed tonight that the two rear idle adjustment screws were
backed all the way out! I'm quite pissed to find this out but glad to
correct it. However, it hasn't made any noticeable difference on my idle
speed. According to the tach, it is idling between 900 to 1000 RPMs as
usual. It also hasn't made any difference in my 'turbo lag' acceleration
problem. For the record, my car has no turbo.
Thanks in advance,
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:26:33 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: door handle installation
Robert,
I have no problems with your advice except for the part about using a
regular socket with a long extension. This just simply didn't work in my
passenger door. There is not a straight enough shot to get a socket on one
of the nuts. I ended up using a crowfoot & swivel which was a real pain.
When I do the driver's door, I'll see if a regular socket will work. If
not, it's back to flopping around in there with a lopsided swivel.
Thanks,
Walt Tampa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
<snip>
> Installation of the door handles is fairly simple. All I used to
> remove the 2 nuts on each handle was a regular socket with a long
> extension.
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:29:41 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sunstar's 1/18 DeLorean Model
I ordered the DeLorean model within minutes after the moderator forwarded
the original post on this topic from the DML. I since received only an
order confirmation e-mail and nothing about any delays or problems.
I suppose that perhaps they had a few in stock and I was one of the lucky
ones to get one of these. Either that or they just didn't get around to
sending me a back order notice. I'll report back if or when I get the
model.
I'm already planning on making a miniture license plate for it. The one on
my big DeLorean says WATSDAT cuz that is what most people say when they see
the car. So the miniture one is going to say MINIDAT. Sort of like Dr.
Evil's MiniMe. A little humor for the shows. :)
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:39:24 EDT
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: a few tech questions
In a message dated 8/8/01 10:50:08 AM Central Daylight Time,
srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> For Question 2, I don't know what would be causing the erratic stiff
> turning. Are any of the boots torn on the steering rack or appear to
> be wet with gear oil? In order to fill the gear rack you have to
> remove it from the car, take one of the boots off (I forgot which
> one,
Steve,
You don't need to remove the steering rack from the car to fill it with
fluid. If you jack the car up and remove the drivers side front wheel, you
can get at the cover plate on the front of the steering box which holds the
nylon guide and spring assembly. Just remove the cover plate, spring and
nylon guide, add the specified amount and type of lube, and re-install
everything. When you remove the cover plate you may find some real thin shims
which space the plate and steering box. Again, just re-install them the same
as they come off.
Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 21:30:33 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Losing brake pressure....Sometimes???
You said:
"..... but here is the funny part. It happens only sometimes ....
Your problem is due to a partially (intermittently) seized brake piston.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Felix S
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 4:22 AM
Subject: [DML] Losing brake pressure....Sometimes???
Hello List,
Another problem which is kind of scary, I seem to be losing brake
pressure when I am at a stop light or pulling out of my driveway. Pressure
I mean the car is stopped then I feel the pedal move, all the way down to
the floor, I pump it and the pressure is back. I would think Master
cylinder etc. but here is the funny part. It happens only sometimes
(haven't seen a pattern yet), the day could be super hot or cold doesn't
matter, there is no leaking brake fluid anywhere, the fluid is always full.
Someone once told me that I had air in my system, maybe but that's kind of
weird. Or an internally bleeding brake master cylinder, so I can't see the
leak? I first noticed this during a parade and we were going stop and go up
a steep incline for a while and then stop and go all the way down, and
that's when I noticed it. Anyone had a similar incident before?
Suggestions?
Thanks in advance
Felix
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:01:45 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: a few tech questions
1. Disconnecting the heater hose at the bleeder hose connection "T" will allow better clearance for the replacement of the clutch slave cylinder.
2. Check the universal joint on the lower section of the steering column where it passes through the frame extension to insure that it is not coming in contact with the frame.
3. Check the front frame ground connection.
4. Replace both the sensor and seal.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 3:07 AM
Subject: [DML] a few tech questions
hey all,
i got my tranny fixed (2nd gear roll pin damage, new centerforce clutch and
slave cylinder) and everything works great. only problem is, my master
cylinder is a little leaky now so i have a HCR-series master from Grady
coming this week.
1. any tips on putting the master cylinder in or should i just follow the
shop manual?
2. when i got my car back from the shop (after almost 3 weeks) i drove it
out and the steering was REALLY stiff, like it would be normal for about a
6th of a turn, then it would get super stiff, then better, then stiff, kinda
randomly yet it was jerky. it did this on left AND right turns i believe.
i've driven the car all day today and it has gotten a lot better but there
are still hints of the problem. any idea on what the deal is and how i can
fix it? i bought some 90 weight gear oil but what do i do with it?
3. now my battery light keeps flickering and my volts are dropping down to
around 12 volts (and that's when the light flickers). it goes up and down
randomly, and it seems to fluctuate most when i hit a bump. i checked the
battery connections and they are tight. it didn't seem to do it as much when
i turned off my interior fans (i had them on VENT), OR when i was coasting
rather than accelerating (when it seemed to do it more often) but it could be
my imagination. any ideas on what this could be?
4. i have an oil leak, a fairly small one. the oil pan bolts are wet on the
left side towards the muffler, and i can see wetness above the gasket line,
so it seems to be coming from somewhere else on the lower crankcase area. i
remember someone on the list mentioning the oil pressure sensor leaking, and
i checked mine and yup, it is wet around it and it doesn't look wet above it.
but it's bad enough where there were actually a couple drops on my driveway!
do i just need to replace the orange seal from behind/in the sensor or do i
need to do more than that? any other ideas?
ok, that's enough questions for now! if i can get these things answered, i'll
be doing pretty well i think!
thanks as always,
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:20:14 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: SEDOC Cruise-In
Travis,
I don't have a count but several of our clients in both North and South Carolina have mentioned to me that they plan to attend the event.
BTW: I was informed today that one of the hotels indicated that they only had four rooms left. I don't believe this is accurate. If indeed this is the case we will post it at the Cruise-In page at DMC.tv
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Travis Goodwin
To: 'dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx'
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 8:54 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: SEDOC Cruise-In
I am thinking about going.. I'd be interested in knowing how many SC
Deloreans there are.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:22:19 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: (unknown)
Four cans of what?
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Foster
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 6:16 PM
Subject: [DML] (unknown)
Hey list,
I would just like to inform everyone that there is 4 cans left.
It is going fast!
Thanks!!
Ryan- vin.#16301
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 04:33:56 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: delayed acceleration problem
Idle speed for the Delorean should be 775 RPM +or- 50 RPM. Although
that may not cause your problem you might want to correct it.
On the note of the Idle Speed Motor, anyone know a good way to test
it? Can I remove it from the engine, apply voltage to the teminals
and see if it works? (by feel and sound) I's hard to tell when it's
on the engine.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> <SNIP>
> Otherwise, I'm thinking that maybe my idle speed motor may be
sticking or
> running too slow. Is this likely?
>
<SNIP>
According to the tach, it is idling between 900 to 1000 RPMs as
> usual. It also hasn't made any difference in my 'turbo lag'
acceleration
> problem. For the record, my car has no turbo.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 04:46:09 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: delayed acceleration problem
The two areas I would concentrate on would be the fuel enrichment
circuit of the fuel system and the vacuum advance for the distributer.
Make sure the frequency valve is buzzing and check all of the vacuum
hoses to the distributer. It is easy to knock one loose but very hard
to see into that area. A hose could also be incorrectly connected so
use the diagrahm to follow the hoses making sure that they aren't
brittle and or cracked. I don't think it is voltage related but it
could be made worse by a breakdown in the secondary ignition wiring.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm having a weird acceleration problem that I need some help
diagnosing.
> When I accelerate, the engine hesitates for 2 or 3 seconds before it
really
> starts to develop horsepower. It makes no difference whether I am
driving
and a
> 140 amp alternator, but the alternator doesn't really start putting
out
> voltage until my RPMs increase from idle. Maybe this is the
problem? I
> need RPMs to get RPMs?
>
> Another idea is that maybe my spark coil is weak and needs the
higher
> voltage associated with the higher RPMs to make it work at peak
performance?
>
> Also, I just noticed tonight that the two rear idle adjustment
screws were
> backed all the way out! I'm quite pissed to find this out but glad
to
> correct it. However, it hasn't made any noticeable difference on my
idle
> speed. According to the tach, it is idling between 900 to 1000 RPMs
as
> usual. It also hasn't made any difference in my 'turbo lag'
acceleration
> problem. For the record, my car has no turbo.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:55:54 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: motor oil and gas - recommended?
Hey all,
i was going though my shop manual today and noticed that it recommends 91
octane gasoline for the car. i've been using 89 octane. yes i know what the
rating means, but is there a good reason i should be using 91 instead of 89?
second, it recommends some pretty heavy motor oil. it says that 15w40 is a
recommended weight! i've done over a thousand oil changes at the part time
job i work at, and i've never put oil like that in a car - the only engines
that use that (Rotella, usually), are big diesel pickups!! it's 'the diesel
oil'. what do most people use? it says regular 10w30 is ok but only in cold
temperatures.
sorry if these questions are really stupid, but i've been chatting with other
DML'ers and they have just kinda shrugged too!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:58:35 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: very high idle
hello,
i'm back again with ANOTHER problem!
i've noticed that ever since i got my car back from the tranny shop (got a
new clutch and slave cylinder) my RPM's when i push in the clutch are VERY
high, like around 3K, no matter what gear i'm coming out of. then i can tap
the accelerator and it will drop down to about 2K. is this right? i don't
remember it being like this before! it's kind of annoying and probably not
good on the gas milage!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 05:03:20 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: a few tech questions
I'll make a note of that. I was told by someone sometime ago (can't
remember who) to flush and fill the rack to remove it. Actually I
think it was on a website I saw it. The person removed both boots,
put one end into an empty bucket and poured gear oil through it to
give it a good flush (I don't know if that's even needed to do). They
went onto saying to replace one boot and fill the rack with fluid and
install the other boot.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, wingd2@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 8/8/01 10:50:08 AM Central Daylight Time,
> srubano@xxxx writes:
>
>
> > For Question 2, I don't know what would be causing the erratic
stiff
> > turning. Are any of the boots torn on the steering rack or appear
to
> > be wet with gear oil? In order to fill the gear rack you have to
> > remove it from the car, take one of the boots off (I forgot which
> > one,
>
> Steve,
>
> You don't need to remove the steering rack from the car to fill
it with
> fluid. If you jack the car up and remove the drivers side front
wheel, you
> can get at the cover plate on the front of the steering box which
holds the
> nylon guide and spring assembly. Just remove the cover plate,
spring and
> nylon guide, add the specified amount and type of lube, and re-
install
> everything. When you remove the cover plate you may find some real
thin shims
> which space the plate and steering box. Again, just re-install them
the same
> as they come off.
>
> Marty
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 22:37:27 -0800
From: Felix S <melvnhel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Losing brake pressure....Sometimes???
Joe,
Thanks for the info, but how would you recommend I fix this problem.
Replace something? Rebuild? Would it cost me a lot of money.
Thank you very much
Felix
> You said:
> "..... but here is the funny part. It happens only sometimes ....
>
> Your problem is due to a partially (intermittently) seized brake piston.
>
> DMC Joe
> www.dmc.tv
> "We're here to help you"
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Felix S
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 4:22 AM
> Subject: [DML] Losing brake pressure....Sometimes???
>
>
> Hello List,
>
> Another problem which is kind of scary, I seem to be losing brake
> pressure when I am at a stop light or pulling out of my driveway. Pressure
> I mean the car is stopped then I feel the pedal move, all the way down to
> the floor, I pump it and the pressure is back. I would think Master
> cylinder etc. but here is the funny part. It happens only sometimes
> (haven't seen a pattern yet), the day could be super hot or cold doesn't
> matter, there is no leaking brake fluid anywhere, the fluid is always full.
> Someone once told me that I had air in my system, maybe but that's kind of
> weird. Or an internally bleeding brake master cylinder, so I can't see the
> leak? I first noticed this during a parade and we were going stop and go up
> a steep incline for a while and then stop and go all the way down, and
> that's when I noticed it. Anyone had a similar incident before?
> Suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Felix
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:43:14 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: delayed acceleration problem
Your description indicates a problem in the acceleration enrichment circuit.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"See You At The SEDOC Cruise-In"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Walter
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 11:23 PM
Subject: [DML] delayed acceleration problem
I'm having a weird acceleration problem that I need some help diagnosing.
When I accelerate, the engine hesitates for 2 or 3 seconds before it really
starts to develop horsepower. It makes no difference whether I am driving
or sitting with the transmission in park. Having the engine hot or cold
makes no difference either.
When in park, I slowly press the accelerator and the RPMs increase
accordingly. After about 2 seconds into this procedure, the RPMs will jump
up considerably as though something was holding the engine back and then let
go.
I get the same problem while leaving a stop light. The car seems to
hesitate until I get to about the middle of the intersection where it
finally really decides to take off.
I thought it might be my idle speed microswitch sticking, but giving it a
quick ear test, it clicks off with the slightest movement of the throttle.
I'll ohm it out later to be sure.
Otherwise, I'm thinking that maybe my idle speed motor may be sticking or
running too slow. Is this likely?
Another thought might be that something might be going wrong with the spark
curve in my distributor. But I'm not experienced enough to know the best
place to start looking. So help! Please!
Could this problem be voltage related? I have a new Optima battery and a
140 amp alternator, but the alternator doesn't really start putting out
voltage until my RPMs increase from idle. Maybe this is the problem? I
need RPMs to get RPMs?
Another idea is that maybe my spark coil is weak and needs the higher
voltage associated with the higher RPMs to make it work at peak performance?
Also, I just noticed tonight that the two rear idle adjustment screws were
backed all the way out! I'm quite pissed to find this out but glad to
correct it. However, it hasn't made any noticeable difference on my idle
speed. According to the tach, it is idling between 900 to 1000 RPMs as
usual. It also hasn't made any difference in my 'turbo lag' acceleration
problem. For the record, my car has no turbo.
Thanks in advance,
Walt Tampa, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 01:37:10 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New Delorean commercial!
I've mentioned this before and I'll say it again. Until there is coverage from notable publications like Motor Trend and Autoweek it is extremely unlikely that there will be any public PR for a brand new car. Keep in mind that the original DeLorean Motor Company was receiving tons of industry press years before the first DeLorean rolled out of the factory. Why do you think there would be a commercial for a new automobile if we haven't even heard of a factory to build them?
There won't be a commercial until there is a product to sell. Just like the original DMC, millions of dollars would have to be raised and hundreds of industry professionals and suppliers contracted to build the car. Unless all these processes have been done in total secrecy I believe it is extremely unlikely that you will see any television commercials for the ???
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"See You At The Cruise-In"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 12:15 AM
Subject: [DML] New Delorean commercial!
I just returned from a local cruise night and met a person who claims
his son, who works on commercials, recently worked on a commercial
shoot with John Delorean promoting his new car! I can only assume this
man was telling the truth as I don't know what reason he would have to
lie. If this IS true then watch for it to come out soon as when people
spend the kind of bucks involved they generaly go all the way and have
the funds needed to air the commercial. If anyone in the list sees it
please try to videotape it to share with the rest of the list. I
believe if JZD really does pull off getting another car into
production then the value of the ORIGIONAL Delorean will jump up only
because the new one will cost much more than what used "D"'s are going
for now so they will look like bargains!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 01:37:38 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Failed Drive Belts.
We know why your alternator belt went bad, you probably have a similar problem on the AC belt side. Check the condition of the belt pulleys and bearings. Be sure that all of the pulleys are aligined to each other, and improperly installed alternator or AC pulley bracket will cause the belts to overheat.
A damaged or even completely missing heatshield should not effect a fairly new belt. If everything is working and adjusted properly belt dressing is not necessary. Also keep in mind that over tensioning a drive belt will cause overheating and premature failure.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"See You At The Cruise-In"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 5:16 PM
Subject: [DML] Failed Drive Belts.
So, here I am. 1½ of ownership, and I am now on my 3rd A/C belt, and
my 7th alternator belt! The first 6 belts were chewed by the fan
blades on the alternator. It looked like someone had bent them out
just far enough so they would slowly chew the belt. After a 3lb.
slegde hammer, and a 2' stick of re-bar, that issue is solved.
Now I have a new problem. Sunday when I got into my car, I hear an
awful screeching from the engine compartment. I stopped the engine,
and checked things out. My alternator belt had flipped on it's side.
I realize this could be poor tensioning. But, when I inspected the
belt (and the A/C since I had to remove it too), both belts were
hard. The A/C belt in particular was already cracked all over the
bottom. When I bent the belts backwards, both snapped instantly!
So, I have 2 questions:
1. My heat shield in front of my muffler is damaged a bit, and has
been perforated in a couple of places. Could this be extreme heat
that had dried out the belts?
2. Is belt dressing a good idea? I've heard that it can sometime dry
out belts and crack them prematurely. Since I drive in the heat
constantly, this is the last thing I want to do.
Any help/ideas would be greatly appriciated. Thanks in advance!
-Robert
vin 6585
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:01:45 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Update: West Coast DeLorean/Bricklin Celebration
I want to remind everyone about the West Coast DeLorean/Bricklin show on
September 20-23. If you're planning to attend (please do!) I need your
registrations as soon as you can send them in. I've mailed out over 400
printed fliers to DeLorean and Bricklin owners in California, Washington,
Oregon and Nevada that I had addresses for. Most of them should be
delivered by the middle of next week. If you would like a printed flier,
email me with your address and I'll send one out. The fliers and on-line
registration are also available on our club website at:
http://www.ncdmc.org. I'll also be bringing a stack of them to the DMC
Houston show this coming weekend.
We've also arranged to have a visit by the Mercedes 300SL gullwing club for
our evening at the Blackhawk Museum. Having all 3 production gullwing cars
in such an excellent setting will make a wonderful photo opportunity.
More to follow!
Ken
======================================================
Don't miss The 2001 DeLorean/Bricklin West Coast Celebration!!
September 20-23, San Ramon, California
Ken Montgomery, President, Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
mailto:kenm@xxxxxxxx http://www.ncdmc.org (916) 944-3252
=======================================================
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 06:07:06 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: door handle installation
That's odd. When I replaced the door handles on my car, all I had to
do was remove the trim panel, and then remove the crossmember
(108318/xx9). Then I just closed the door while sitting in the seat,
and went in down from the top, next to the fixed glass with the
window rolled down. It is a little akward laying on your side in the
seat to position yourself, but everything should be realativly easy.
Whole job on takes about 15 minutes or so to complete. Maybe there's
something differant in th way your door is from mine. With all the
little changes that seemed to occur in production, it wouldn't
surprise me...
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Robert,
>
> I have no problems with your advice except for the part about using
a
> regular socket with a long extension. This just simply didn't work
in my
> passenger door. There is not a straight enough shot to get a
socket on one
> of the nuts...
<SNIP>
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 02:03:30 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: delayed acceleration problem
You asked:
"Can I remove it from the engine, apply voltage to the teminals
and see if it works? (by feel and sound) I's hard to tell when it's
on the engine....."
The Idle speed motor is easily checked while on the car. First unplug the idle speed motor than turn the ignition to the "run" position without starting the engine. Insert the idle speed motor plug; if the motor is operating you will hear it hum and or feel a slight vibration emanating from the motor.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"See You At The Cruise-In"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 12:33 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: delayed acceleration problem
Idle speed for the Delorean should be 775 RPM +or- 50 RPM. Although
that may not cause your problem you might want to correct it.
On the note of the Idle Speed Motor, anyone know a good way to test
it? Can I remove it from the engine, apply voltage to the teminals
and see if it works? (by feel and sound) I's hard to tell when it's
on the engine.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 08:18:41 -0000
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE. Door Handle Installation & Air Con R134a
I have changed both my door handles numerous times as I was making my
own replacements.
You will find that the driver's side door handle is easier to
remove/install and you probably will not have to remove the top black
metal bracket, which supports the door trim.
hope this helps somewhat!
on anouther note:
I had my air con converted to R134a (I think that is what it is
called) and re-gassed yesterday, with a digital thermometer in the
car and the doors closed the interior temperature of the car reached
just 2 degrees centigrade after about 20 mins!, fortunately I was not
in the car or I might have got frostbite! ;-)
James RG
England
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 08:29:52 -0000
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Is a worn fuel pump causing my engine to die??
Hi all,
When my car reaches a good temperature after a 1/2 hour drive on a
warm day the fuel pump starts getting loud and the car dies if I put
my foot to the floor. I took it to my local garage and the chap who
normally works on my car said it was most likely a weak fuel pump
that is probably likely to die in the near future.
He told me he had recently had the same problem with a customer's
Porsche and it turned out to be a worn fuel pump, can anyone on the
list backup his fuel pump theory just for peace of mind.
Many Thanks
James RG
England
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