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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: cleaning trans filter
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
2. Fuel Accumulator and fuel filter
From: mrvideosawyer@xxxxxxxxxxxx
3. Re: cleaning trans filter
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
4. Re: RPM's
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: weird hissing noise
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: fans run continuously, strange wiring
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: clutch life in a DMC?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: front brake calipers
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
9. rotors
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
10. Re: Re: clutch life in a DMC?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
11. New delorean owner
From: beatlesra1@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Looking for a Project DeLorean
From: Dave Stragand <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: still problems with cooling
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Frame Weight?
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
15. RE: Automatic interior light
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Multiple Thanks
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
17. Incorrect Voltage Reading
From: Declan Kelly <declan_kelly@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Heat test
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
19. delorean stuff
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: (wasHeat test) Cooling Fans
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Automatic interior light
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
22. RE: Automatic interior light
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
23. Hot Start
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
24. [ETDOC] Biltmore, NC Gathering July 8!
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Heat test
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 03:30:37 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: cleaning trans filter
It's not a good thing to find metal flakes on that magnet especially
for an automatic transmission! Those flakes are from the gears which
mean they are grinding and wearing out. I don't know if it's one of
those "Normal things" for the D, but if it were on another car it's a
sign of a problem. Is you trans computer shifting properly?
<SNIP> Since I noticed that the magnet on my filter had more
> particles on it than were in the filter, I added a few extra small
> high-energy magnets from Radio Shack around the perimeter. The
next time I
> take the tranny apart, I'll find out how effective they are.
>
<SNIP> Mirror, mirror on my car, who has the coolest DeLorean of them
all?
> Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 00:26:49 -0400
From: mrvideosawyer@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Fuel Accumulator and fuel filter
Dear Group,
Today I started my fuel accumulator and I must say I was having nightmares from all the posts I had read. The accumulator went in very easy and with out much hassel. The one thing I did notice is to make the job easier is to just cut the rubber fuel lines. These should be replaced anyway. Have a bucket to catch about a quart of fuel, replace the fuel lines and your good to go.
While I was at it I replaced the fuel filter too. Not to involved just a little time consuming.
Jim Sawyer
vin 4149
"ELMO"
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Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 03:44:41 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: cleaning trans filter
Your magnets will only capture steel and cast iron particles. The
filter is meant to keep out the big chunks and any friction materiel
which is a natural by product of the aging of the automatic
transmission, not metal. You should not expect to catch much metal,
especially magnetic, although you will see flecks of brass and bronze
from the thrust washers as they wear normally. If you find large
amounts of friction materiel or any significant amount of magnetic
particles the transmission is nearing the time for a rebuild. If at
this point you continue to drive on it you will only cause more
damage, like driving on a worn out clutch, it tends to wear much
faster as it approaches the end of it's life. When the fluid becomes
overburdened by particles it wears out the pump, the seals, the torque
converter, and the thrust washers and shims. Even if you reseal they
won't last if the fluid is full of grit (microscopic particles of
metal and friction materiel). The only cure is complete disassembly
and replacement of all of the wearable parts, the friction plates, the
steel plates, seals, bushings, thrust washers, and gaskets. If you
drive the trans to destruction then you risk of ruining hard parts
like gears, housings, shafts, etc. These parts are not normally
replaced and are expensive. Think of it like driving on worn out brake
pads and ruining the rotors. If you stopped and did the pads for say
$50 you wouldn't have to go for rotors for $500. On the Delorean you
cannot properly flush out the trans fluid unless you dismantle it. Too
much remains in the torque converter and you can't drain it without
removing it. Cleaning the filter is involved but since there is no
more stock and I cannot find a replacement this is the best I can come
up with.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> David,
>
> I have rebuilt my automatic transmission filter the way David T
explains.
> It worked good but was very time consuming (and very rewarding if
you are
> into doing things the hard way.) There is nothing about the filter
that I
> would consider a 'wear item' -- meaning something that wears out and
needs
> to be replaced periodically. It is all metal, and any debris that
collects
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 01:14:57 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: RPM's
5,500 RPM is the safe rev limit for the DeLorean PRV engine.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Lynn Metz
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 10:52 AM
Subject: [DML] RPM's
Group:
I was wondering what is the "safe" rev limit on the PRV?? The tach doesn't
show red until 6500 rpms. This seems high to me. I have owned 2 Trans Ams,
2 Cameros, and currently have a Firebird. All have had 4500 rpms as yellow
and 5000 rpms as red. Can the PRV rev that much higher than my other sports
cars? ( I understand that v-8s and especially big blocks have lower rev
limits - but 6500 seems high ).
Thanks
Brian
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 01:57:08 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: weird hissing noise
Jim,
Disconnect your key buzzer and see if the noise disappears.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: orentha@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 5:13 PM
Subject: [DML] weird hissing noise
I've been having this weird hissing, screeching noise coming from my
steering column or under the dash. I can't even pin-point the exact
location of the noise.
Also, it makes this noise completely randomly.
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 01:49:13 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fans run continuously, strange wiring
The orientation of the "Batt" & "Aux" terminals is not critical.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Todd Masinelli
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 12:11 AM
Subject: [DML] fans run continuously, strange wiring
should have brown/orange to BAT and brown/slate to AUX on the 40 amp
breaker.
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681 (Nov 81)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 01:54:04 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: clutch life in a DMC?
Our data base records indicate an average life of 68,000 miles before clutch slippage. Keep in mind that clutch life is based on the driver and not the vehicle. We have several customers who have over 100k miles on their clutch components.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Cameron Putsch
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2001 5:47 PM
Subject: [DML] clutch life in a DMC?
How many miles should one expect to get out of a stock Delorean's clutch under normal driving conditions? Please tell me it is not like a Lotus or Ferrari where you gotta change it like every 10k mi, but on the other hand be honest I need to know. :)
Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 01:55:52 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: front brake calipers
Jim,
Sounds like you answered your own question when you said:
"Or is it just that the mechanic who installed the calipers last summer did it??"
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: orentha@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 5:08 PM
Subject: [DML] front brake calipers
I had my front brake calipers and master cylinder replaced last
summer. And recently I noticed that my brake pedal doesn't have much
pressure and goes all the way to the floor.
So I took it in and had the brakes tested. And the bleeder screws in
the front calipers are completely stripped out.
Is there anything that would cause the screws to be stripped out ?
Or is it just that the mechanic who installed the calipers last
summer did it??
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 11:59:37 -0000
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: rotors
I've checked the back archives on this one and couldn't find
anything. Is there a cross reference number for the front/back
rotors?
Erik
4512
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 01:57:53 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: clutch life in a DMC?
Dave you are totally correct. Both clutches have similar performance characteristics under normal driving conditions but the Centerforce allows for a more aggressive spool up under rapid acceleration. I have also found that the Centerforce coupled to a Bendix slave affords slightly lighter pedal engage and disengage pressure.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: David Swingle
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 3:10 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: clutch life in a DMC?
One of the "dirty little secrets" of DMC clutches. The Centerforce IS
an OEM clutch, the same Valeo (brand) disc, with the same pressure
plate painted gold. Centerforce does add the weights that supposedly
increase the clamping action, I've had both and can honestly NOT tell
the difference in any way, except for price
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 10:33:57 -0000
From: beatlesra1@xxxxxxx
Subject: New delorean owner
Hi everyone!
I'm a new delorean owner and just want to say hi to everyone! thanks
again Tom!!
Chuck Darling
Sandusky, Ohio
Vin# 6125
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 09:17:54 -0400
From: Dave Stragand <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Looking for a Project DeLorean
Are you looking for a project car so you can get a D at a lower price? If
so, that's false logic. It just doesn't work that way. In fact, it's
exactly the opposite. I'll explain:
An important bit of wisdom was imparted to me early on in auto restoration:
"The difference between a $15,000 car and a $20,000 car is around $10,000."
It's strange but true. You can almost always get a better deal (when all
told) by buying a car that is great to begin with, than by fixing up one
that needs work. I'm at around $18,000 into my project, and I'm not done
yet. I'm almost positive the "Rule of 20" is going to apply in my case.
The "Rule of 20", if you are unfamiliar with it, is Cost of DeLorean + Cost
of parts and service = $20,000. That's about $5,000 more than a D in nice
shape to begin with...
Now I, on the other hand, bought -my- car for the express purpose of fixing
it up. The process itself is what I'm interested in, more than the end
result. Will I have a $20,000 car if I spend $20,000 restoring it? Most
likely not. And to make financial matters worse, I will have invested a
couple-thousand- hours of work to boot.
Sometimes though, the journey is better than the destination. My '58
Plymouth has around $27,000 invested in it, but is still only a $17,000 car.
Where did the $10k go? It bought one heck of a lot of fun. A LOT of fun. And
it's worth it, IF you can afford it.
I see a lot of posts asking for a cheap D, by someone who will finance.
Originally, that's how I approached the original owner. I did pay him cash
though when the deal was struck - I wanted to start with a clean slate. I do
remember what it was like to be young, and dreaming of that perfect car.
You'll do nearly -anything- to get it. However, trust me on this one: DO NOT
BUY A COLLECTOR CAR UNLESS YOU HAVE THE MONEY TO MAKE IT RUN AND KEEP IT
RUNNING. Now it doesn't have to be perfect at first, but at least drivable.
If you spend every cent buying a car that'll need
tons more money before it's streetable, you will stress yourself to death.
You'll start to see the car as an endless drain on your wallet, and it may
be years before you ever get to drive it. Besides, it's a race against time.
The longer it sits, the more it will need. Eventually, you end up selling
the car for less than you layed out, and you'll be depressed as well as
carless. This is what my friends call the "Project Car Spiral". Avoid it.
I'm at a point in my life where I have most of the cash and time I need to
responsibly restore a car. If you don't have enough of both to begin with,
then you won't be happy when you get the car. It took me -12 years- to
finally get my '58 Plymouth. It took -15 years- to get my D. If it's worth
doing, it's worth waiting, and that advice works on a lot of levels.
Trust me. I've been there, and done that. Even have the T-Shirt. =)
-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927
http://www.ProjectVixen.com/ <http://www.projectvixen.com/>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 07:59:58 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: still problems with cooling
That clicking is likely the breaker tripping.
Leave the relay compartment panel off, and clean the spade connectors.
Then, while driving, you can reach the breaker and feel that it is getting
hot. Recently, I posted about this problem. Do a search on "Fatal Flaw".
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Williams [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 6:38 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] still problems with cooling
...I backed out of the garage with the door open when I heard a loud click
from the relay compartment and then the cooling fans came on. With the
otterstat jumped, the fans should have been on the entire time. Prior to
jumping the otterstat, I've heard this loud click from the relay
compartment before. ...
Any idea on what could be clicking and controlling the fans?
Happy fourth to everyone!
-Christian
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 12:11:57 EDT
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Frame Weight?
The weight of a stripped bare Delorean frame is 197 lbs. Other trivia.....
the weight of a stripped bare Delorean aluminum block is 37 lbs..... which is
worth $7.03 at current scrap values.
Marty
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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 16:27:03
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Automatic interior light
Well, My lights go right out when I close the door. What does that mean?
Ryan- vin.#16301
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 14:25:27 -0000
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Multiple Thanks
In the past couple weeks I fixed both my throttle cable sticking
problem and my cooling fans problem. For the throttle cable, I
pulled it apart and fortunately only had to lubricate it to get it
smooth again. For the cooling fan that wasn't working I found out
that I inadvertently miswired them in the relay compartment. All is
working fine now and I want to thank DMC Joe, John Hervey, Stephen
Wynne at DMC Houston, and Arnie Brandon of the PNDC who all
contributed to me figuring out and fixing the problems. This list is
so invaluable and I feel fortunate to be in such good company.
Thank you!
shiraz
#2860
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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 10:01:45 -0400
From: Declan Kelly <declan_kelly@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Incorrect Voltage Reading
Hi All
Any time I ask a question I like to start with a big thank you to
all the group. You guys are the best.
With my fans and lights on, I see my voltage meter reading very low
9v. I am worried that I would loose power completely. I had replaced the
alternator with a higher ampage one. But this is the weird thing, If I but
an multimeter on the battery I get 14.5v, at the same time I have only 9v
on the dash gauge ? Am I testing my voltage from the wrong location.
Thanks
Declan.
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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 04:42:01 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Heat test
Group, We all know what can happen when a car overheats and the De
Lorean is no exception. I have always heard that if you get over
about 35 to 40 MPH the cooling fans are no longer drawing air because
the out side air due to speed is forcing it's self thru the radiator
and cooling the water. At this point why have we got the fan's on and
drawing down the electrical system. Several have posted that they
don't have a cooling problem while driving on the freeways or going
some where if you don't have stop and go traffic. We'll today I added
a feature to my Fan Fix to turn off the fans while going somewhere
that isn't start and stop and no heavy traffic. It's 88-92 degrees in
Dallas, about 6:30 pm, sun still pretty high along with the
hummidity. I did a 40 mile trip to my office and back and the temp
gauge just barely got above the first mark off the bottom about 180.
I had the air conditioner on all the way had a couple of stops to
exit and go to my office. I had the fans turned off the whole trip.
Got back home, sat under the carport for a few minuits and watched
the gauge go up just below the 220. Then I reached back behind the
passenger seat and fliped the switch on The Fan Fix Dual 2 X 2, Car
cooled down as supposed to and end of story and heat. The moral is
The car will run on your distance trips with out the fans on all the
time drawing down the electrical system. And those cold climates, you
may not need them on all the time either. So, This I will call:
The Fan Saver.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 16:56:30
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: delorean stuff
Hey list,
I had a lead on orignal DeLorean parts the other day. I was told that the
local dealear that csold Deloreans new still had some parts. So just for
kicks I called them. They said No we dont have any parts but we do have a
couple of binders and the sign form the front of the store when we sold them
new. So I went and looked at the stuff. One binder was an orignal parts
list. The exploded view of everything the binder was the Accersories book.
Color pics of all the accersories. There was another binder that just had
reciepts in it.
The sign was very cool. I'm not sure if it was made of stainless or not but
it had the same grain as the car body does. So I offered them $20.00 for the
binders. They laughed at me. He then said the owner wants $5000.00 for
everything. I laughed back.
So if any onewants some piece of DeLorean History Here is the Phone number
to the dealearship, Van Atta (their name) 1-(607)-729-5516.
That number will get you to the parts dept. that is who you want to talk to.
Ryan- vin.#16301
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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 17:08:00 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: (wasHeat test) Cooling Fans
I have to respectfully disagree here.
This seems to me to be a particularly ill-advised modification.
Anything that would require the operator to remember to turn the fans
back on after a highway run is just asking for expensive trouble. The
way the DeLorean is supposed to work, i.e. where the fans run when
needed as called for by the Otterstat, OR when the Air conditioner is
on, is SOP for every car I've seen that uses electric fans.
If you have an overheating problem, fix it, don't wire around it.
Replacing the fan motors (and I don't believe that these are a
particularly high-failure part) is much cheaper than a new engine.
Being able to turn of the fans when running the A/C in cold climates
is a non-issue. If it's cold, I'm not running the A/C. If the
otterstat turns on the fans, it's because the engine is hot. No need
to second-guess it.
I've replaced every part of my cooling system (except the aluminum
tubes and the engine block), with OEM parts including the radiator,
and it runs exactly as it should in all weather. I was in a parade
this weekend, an hour of essentialy idling in 83-degree weather, and
the fans cycled on and off about every 5 minutes. Exactly what they
are supposed to do.
If you really want to do something like this it had better be
completely automatic, no driver intervention required, which just
further complicates the electrical system of the car - to do what -
make a 10-year item (fan motors) last for 11 years?
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
We'll today I added
> a feature to my Fan Fix to turn off the fans while going somewhere
> that isn't start and stop and no heavy traffic. It's 88-92 degrees
in
> Dallas, about 6:30 pm, sun still pretty high along with the
> hummidity. I did a 40 mile trip to my office and back and the temp
> gauge just barely got above the first mark off the bottom about
180.
> I had the air conditioner on all the way had a couple of stops to
> exit and go to my office. I had the fans turned off the whole trip.
> > may not need them on all the time either. So, This I will call:
> The Fan Saver.
> John Hervey
> http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 13:05:37 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Automatic interior light
>Well, My lights go right out when I close the door. What does that mean?
It means you had your door open for longer than 12 seconds. Try opening
your door and then closing it again immediately. The light should stay on
for a few seconds.
How did they ever make so many cars which such an obviously malfunctioning
light timer?
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 10:06:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Automatic interior light
It means you are conserving electricity - right on!!!
Dick Ryan
--- Ryan Foster <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> Well, My lights go right out when I close the door.
> What does that mean?
>
>
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 17:58:19 -0000
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Hot Start
Hello List,
Just replaced my acumulator and car still won't start when hot after
been left for about 25 mins.
I will be putting a pressure tester on it tommorow to see what the
pressures are.
I had to swap the cpr plug with the cold start and it fired up fine.
So before testing I would think the cpr is broken?
Any advice.
Many Thanks.
Paul UK Vin 741
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 11:14:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [ETDOC] Biltmore, NC Gathering July 8!
Hey all!
Just yet another reminder of the gathering of DeLoreans at
the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, NC. I have had a good
number of responses and I there will be several attending.
I will be in Asheville around 8pm on the 7th and will be
having dinner at the TGI Fridays (~8:30pm)at the Quality
Inn Biltmore (which is also where I am staying). If anyone
wants to join us for dinner, come on!
The first group will meet around 7:30am, again, at the TGI
Fridays parking lot to go into the estate early for picture
purposes only. Afterwards, we will go back out and wait
for the final batch of attendees to arrive at the same TGI
Fridays parking lot (~9:15-30am), then we will proceed to
the Group Sales Office so everyone can purchase their
passes to get in.
Just after 1pm or so, we will leave to go eat lunch. Then
after lunch will be the driving tour of the Asheville area.
If anyone has any questions, let me know!
Thanks,
Aaron Posey
ETDOC www.etdoc.com
cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 11:18:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Heat test
John
I think you are doing great things for our community.
However, I wonder about the fan cut-off switch on the
Fan Fix. It seems to do two things that I question.
First, it fixes a problem that really doesn't need
fixing. Second, and of greater concern to me is that
it requires one more thing to remember; ie., going on
a trip, turn off the fans, gain comfort in the fact
that you won't overheat because you are going highway
speeds, get into a strange town and get preoccupied
looking for an address and forget to look at the temp
guage - - fans not on and suddenly you are
overheating.
Now, if you could devise a temp controlled automatic
"turn-back-on" switch, I'd say you have something.
Just my 2¢.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
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