Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 11 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: solid steel clutch line
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
2. Add to VIN List..
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: HELP, I'm about to really mess up!
From: "John L. Rahn" <john_rahn@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Lightened flywheels and other performance stuff
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. my stainless steel clutchline experience
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
6. Re: Automatic interior light
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Frame
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. 'Tinted window' question
From: Sacha Prins <sacha@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: my stainless steel clutchline experience
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Starting and Idling Issues
From: Jay Jones <JayJones@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. DeLorean Farm
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 01:12:41 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: solid steel clutch line
Ralf.
The QAC centers did not install rigid steel clutch lines.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Ralf Philipp
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2001 10:17 AM
Subject: [DML] solid steel clutch line
Mads,
you are not the only one!
My car is also equipped with the solid steel clutch line
Does anybody know, if these lines were possibly installed by the Quality
Assurance Centers? I know that my car was definitely at a QAC because
every
update was made and there is the QAC sticker on the drivers side window.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 08:22:18 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Add to VIN List..
It may be a good idea to show this car on the VIN list as a flood car..
I have a feeling we will be seeing it again. :)
-----Original Message-----
From: Dee Moats [mailto:Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 1:04 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] are there d's with minimal troubles?
<SNIP>
D Moats Vin #04434 (now belonging to State Farm)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 14:44:29 -0000
From: "John L. Rahn" <john_rahn@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: HELP, I'm about to really mess up!
Well, I got everything fixed. Special thanks to John Hervey, Dave
Swingle and David Sontos. Of the 1154 members on this list, they
were the only ones that answered my request for help. John even
called me at home to help me directly. Thanks to you all!
JR
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "John L. Rahn" <john_rahn@xxxx> wrote:
> HELP!!! I'm trying to remove the old fuel lines that run from the
> fuel pump to the metal lines on the frame. The metal fittings that
> join the rubber coated lines to the metal lines are driving me
> crazy. I finally got one off but the other is really on there.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 00:57:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lightened flywheels and other performance stuff
MODERATOR NOTE] this is the correct answer - there is no "flywheel" as
such in an automatic car. End of Thread]
On Sat, 30 Jun 2001, Aaron King wrote:
> I am trying to figure out some different things I can do to my car (81
> auto trans) to make it perform better without (1) swapping out the
...
> things I could do that would cost less. These things might include:
> Cam regrinding, lightened flywheel, headers/exhaust work, and air
> intake work.
I don't think the auto transmission even *has* a flywheel, so that's
pretty well out. :} Lightening the flywheel is only an option for manual
transmissions, in general. It would probably be a pretty good option on
the DeLorean, unfortunately, it would have to be specially made to balance
the engine, and I don't know anyone making them.
One trick that is done on other cars is to not do any balancing with the
flywheel at all, and use the balancing weights from an automatic
transmission's flexplate. This way you can balance your engine without
having to take special precautions. This only works if the counterweight
is detachable though, and is a moot point except for the flywheel maker :}
> The cam regrinding would cost me ~$100 for both, assuming I can remove
> and reinstall them myself. I don't know if I can do that or not, so
> I'm holding off on that for now.
This is tricky also because of the way the cams are made. Only the
surface is hardened, the cam material is generally fairly soft and would
wear quickly if they were reground. You could still do it, you would
simply have to either be prepared for this wear, or find a way to
re-harden the surfaces (I think this is what DMC Houston does).
> I contacted Dave Burrows at DRB Car Spares & Accessories in England
> about headers. Apparently, they are still in development and Custom
It should not be that hard, any hot-rod shop could probably manage it.
> Oh, maybe I should mention why I'm posting this. I guess I'm just
> frustrated when I get smoked off the line by a chevy panel van even
You should make sure that your car is running right. While any modern
sportscar, most modern sedans and the occasional SUV are faster than the
DeLorean, I think you should still be able to take a panel van :} So
perhaps something is not quite right somewhere.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 11:23:23 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: my stainless steel clutchline experience
hey all,
i have successfully replaced my OEM clutch line with the stainless steel
braided line. i must say it was easier than i thought it would be! the
hardest part was definitely bleeding the system, but that's only because
you
need at least two people to do it!
the only complaint i have is that every now and then, i have a problem
with
2nd gear. you see, when i shift into it, i move the lever to the left,
then
all the way back until the lever can't go any farther. then i release the
clutch and push down on the gas. anyway, every now and then i can feel
the
stick slip a bit toward the neutral position when i let up on the clutch
and
i accelerate. this is kinda scary because once it just about started to
grind because when this happens, the clutch is on, not released. it does
this by itself.
anyone have any ideas on what is going on here? i hope it's not bad slave
or
master cylinders!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 18:09:50
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Automatic interior light
Kevin,
I had the problem with my interior light only working in the off and on
position. I would not work with the doors. So I pulled the light out of
the
celing. and tested it and I found that the little brass roller on the
lense
wasn't touching the tab connected to the wire that operates the door
light,
when the light comes on with the door. you can bend the tabs to work or
buy
a new light. It is about 30.00 for a new one.
They are made of plastic, and mine had heated you a few time and was
warped.
That is why it did not work. Disconnecting the door buzzer will not
affect
the interior lights. I have my door buzzer disconnected too. Good luck.
Ryan- vin.#16301
>From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: "Dmcnews \(E-mail\)" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [DML] Automatic interior light
>Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 23:03:46 -0400
>
>My interior light does not go on in the car when I open the doors. Was
>this
>the way the car was designed? I disconnected my door buzzer, so if this
is
>what causes this issue, let me know and I will crawl back under a rock.
>
>If not, is there any way to rig the light to work this way?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 18:28:42 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Frame
Hi all
Does any one have or no of where there is a complete Frame for sale.
Cheers Paul
Vin....very nearly
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 20:27:50 +0200
From: Sacha Prins <sacha@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 'Tinted window' question
Hi,
Today I finished updating my LH window motor, 2 Solenoids and I fixed
malfunctioning mirrors just by spraying WD40 and contact spray in holes
and caveties. Those doors are a mayor pain, but the reward is a
seemingly perfect DeLorean (#17115) with no malfunctions any more.
However, replacing the window motor I severely damaged the little
window. Not by breaking it, but by scratching it rather badly. My
windows are more tinted than other DeLoreans and I suspect that it was
done after the car left the factory. As far as I can tell the windows
were sputtercoated (no foil or sticker), this however damages easily,
especially with the window motor arm.
I know this is not specifically DeLorean related, nonetheless I want to
post this question, this is after all one of the first places I ask
stuff. Is this reparable, and if not, what is the best way to remove
sputtercoated 'tint' from a window without damaging the window?
Thanks again,
Sacha
#16187
#17115
--
>From now on my e-mail address is <sacha@xxxxxxxxx>.
Please update your address book if I'm in it.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 20:23:31 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: my stainless steel clutchline experience
Classic symptom of a broken 2nd gear roll pin. Good news - it costs
about 75 cents. Bad news - it's inside the transmission. Shift
carefully, fix it next time you need a new clutch.
You also may have a slight linkage crossgate adjustment issue.
Procedure is in the manual.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> hey all,
>
> i have successfully replaced my OEM clutch line with the stainless
steel
> braided line. > the only complaint i have is that every now and
then, i have a problem with
> 2nd gear. you see, when i shift into it, i move the lever to the
left, then
> all the way back until the lever can't go any farther. then i
release the
> clutch and push down on the gas.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 15:57:23 -0500
From: Jay Jones <JayJones@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Starting and Idling Issues
I know that there have been a lot of posts about hot starting. However I
wanted to post my specific problem and see what folks think the issue
really
is and how to go about fixing it.
When I start the big D cold it starts up will little effort, however if
driven immediately after startup it will fall on its face when
accelerating.
After two minutes of running it will run fine.
Different story when starting hot. I have to hold down the gas and keep
my
key turned for 30 seconds before the engine finally fires up. It runs
very
rich (gassy smell) for a couple of minutes and then runs like a champ.
On Idling my engine surges from 800 to 1200 RPM. I have no idea why it
does
this.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
VIN 1118. (AKA. The Red DeLorean)
Jay Jones, CNA
First Federal Bank
Network Administrator
Desk (320)-234-4553
Cell (320)- 583-9652
jayjones@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:jayjones@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
http://www.ffhh.com/ <http://www.ffhh.com/>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 19:34:48 EDT
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean Farm
On my way back to Washington, DC from a trip to New York, I was able
to
stop by the former DeLorean farm in Bedminister New Jersey.
What a shame.
The swimming pool looked like it had not been cared for in years and
was
severely damaged. The tennis courts were overgrown and damaged.
The grounds manager showed me pictures of the main house when the
former
tenant moved out.
I was able to tour the entire house and estate grounds, informally &
take
some pictures. There were even some hidden doors in the library.
The current plans for the estate are for an exclusive golf course.
Construction has already begun for the driving range.
There are people living in the servants quarters in the back of the
estate. (DeLorean Goodyear Advertisement was photographed here)
The saddest part of the visit was listening to the grounds manager
explain how depressed John DeLorean's three dogs are. Evidently he just
abandoned them there and they have stopped eating, however the landscapers
have been trying to feed them.
Sincerely,
Michael Pack
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
<<attachment: winmail.dat>>
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN