dmcnews-digest Tuesday, April 7 1998 Volume 03 : Number 348
In this issue:
[Fwd: DML: headlight problem]
DML: Re: Lowering the D and 'camber'
DML: Coil Wire Sheild
DML: dmc stripes for sale
DML: houston texas
DML: Hardcastle and McCormick DeLorean
Re: DML: ASI radio replacement
DML: expansion bottle installation
DML: DeLorean Wanted/ DeLorean For Sale
DML: Camellia Classic Car Show
Re: DML: headlight problem
Re: DML: ASI radio replacment
DML: Aluminium Wheel Repair & Restoration
DML: Headliners fabric
DML: Cure for windsheild washers problems
RE: DML: Lowering the D and 'camber'
DML: Steamed-up rear side windows
DML: Latest CarTalk Survey Results
DML: VIN#
DML: Louisiana Meeting?
DML: Axle Nuts
DML: Vandalizim and Starting problems.
Re: DML: Vandalizim and Starting problems.
DML: Jellyfish & DMC Models
DML: Re: Fascia Paint
DML: Exhaust System
DML: Help! My wheel just sucked a valve stem!!
Re: DML: Aluminium Wheel Repair & Restoration
DML: washer bottle and O2 sensor questions
Re: DML: Headliners fabric
Re: DML: Vandalism problems.
DML: Does anyone know?
RE: DML: Vandalizim and Starting problems.
RE: DML: Exhaust System
Re: DML: Exhaust System
DML: surgery update!
DML: Post trim removal.
DML: Re: KAPAC is now DMC Houston (was: Exhaust System)
DML: need engine parts
DML: radios and tinted windows
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 17:32:40 +0000
From: James Nichols <jhnichols@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Fwd: DML: headlight problem]
JAlbin wrote:
> my car has developed a very strange headlight problem:
>
> set to low beams, only the driver's side low comes on and it is weak
> set to high beams the driver's side low goes off and the other three come
> on
>
> I tried swithching the two light relays near the fuse box ... no luck?
> any ideas?
>
> jim albin is jalbin@xxxxxxx
The low sealed beam (2A1) has two filliments, low and high. The high
sealed
beam (1A1) has only one, high.
This may be too simple, but it sounds like you have a low filliment burned
out on the passenger side and a high filliment burned out on the driver
side, in the low, 2A1 sealed beams. One filliment burned out in the
halogen
bulb may darken it somewhat.
I doubt that it is a ground wire since the both 2A1 filliments in each
sealed beam use a common ground and one side works on high and the other
side works on low.
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 16:18:45 -0600
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Lowering the D and 'camber'
- ----------
> From: Ken Montgomery <kenm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: Lowering the D and 'camber'
> Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 4:26 PM
>
> If you lower the car, doesn't that change the camber of the wheels? If
> this isn't adjustable, what does it do to your tires? I would suspect
> that the camber is wrong if you DON'T lower the car since I doubt they
> designed the D to sit with it's nose so far up in the air. My car's
> nose is as high in the air as I've ever seen. If you look on my web
> site you'll see what I mean. I would like to take care of this but I
> don't want to trash the tires.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Ken Montgomery My DeLorean VIN #10911
> Sacramento, CA
>
Lowering the front doesn't change the camber and even enhances the
steering
because the tie rod ends line up better being straight out of the rack vs
angeled down on the stock height cars. The camber will change negatively
on
the rear when lowered, the amount depending on how far you lower the car.
My car is lowered and the rear camber is a bit negative but I honestly
haven't noticed any more wear on the inside of the tires than the outside.
I think a slightly negative camber works well towards overcoming the rear
weight bias of the rear engine. There are adjustable upper contol arms
available to restore neutral camber if nessasary. I know Don Steger at the
DeLorean Motor Center in California sells them. Perhaps the other shops do
as well.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 98 21:13:14 -0000
From: David Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Coil Wire Sheild
My ignition coil-to-distributor cap wire, which I believe to be original,
is covered with a huge braided sheilding, probably for RFI. Is this
original? I'm sure this won't be present on replacements. Does anyone
have experience with this? Is there likely to be a degradation in the
already crappy OEM radio if I replace this with a standard wire?
Dave Swingle
81 VIN 5429
DOA, DMC, DMC(Midwest)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 10:38:36 -0500
From: Vicki Miller <"1000mil@xxxxxxx"@gte.net>
Subject: DML: dmc stripes for sale
I have a set of the original DMC stripes- the wide black ones
stock number a-200010 textured side stripe....anyone interested call bob
at 919-383-6187
or email at 1000mil@xxxxxxx
make me an offer
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 10:43:21 -0500
From: Vicki Miller <"1000mil@xxxxxxx"@gte.net>
Subject: DML: houston texas
I was in houston all of last week, stopped by to see Steven and Warren
both were in good spirits and looking forward to the run in June...
Got some parts I needed and some T shirts....Stevens shop was full
of DMCs. If you are in the Houston area make sure to stop and visit....
regards
bob miller
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 01:39:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Scott Tester <testersd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Hardcastle and McCormick DeLorean
I found this ad on Classified 2000. Does anyone remember this show?
Auto 1981, Delorean "Coyote", 11K miles, $60,000
/OBO
Options
red exterior, grey interior
CD Player
Classic Car
Two Door
Manual Transmission
Description
The one and only original "Coyote" car featured
in the
TV show "Hardcastle and McCormick". This car
was
customized by the world-reknowned George
Barris,
and it's absolutely mint...virtually the same
as
the day it
was last used in the filming of the 1980s TV
show.
Seller Info
For sale by private party
(319) 323-5466
bobquast
Davenport, Iowa 52803
Post Date
26-MAR-98
Scott Tester testersd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 00:10:52 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: ASI radio replacement
At 07:10 PM 4/1/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Lee and others, I put a modern radio in mine last month. You have to
>cut the
>dash hole for the radio into a larger rectangle. The new radio came with
>a templet to mark the size on the sheet metal.
reply: Jordan, Kevin and others,
Mike Griese, one of our DML members dropped by my secret hide'n place to
chat and try some local Chinese seafood. We batted around some thoughts
on some of the more common problems with the D like weak struts and panel
alignment. We also gave some time to installing my new Panasonic
CQ-DPG550 CD player and radio.
both Mike and the local auto Radio shop did not think there would be any
problem leaving the original speakers in the D, or that the original hook
up wires for the speaker would not impede the sound quality.
There is a cut out templet, so I think I will pull the center console to
do the radio, and the air conditioning switch. The bat line will have to
go directly to the Battery to by pass my cut off switch.
I also got some good feed back from Mike on the model kits of the D and
a positive reaction to the 3D T-shirts.
all in all It's great to be able to find others who have a D to discuss
various problems and compare notes.
Thanks
Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 03:32:59 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: expansion bottle installation
DMC project
This weekend was expansion bottle weekend. For all the old timers and
long time owners, this is old hat, but for new owners it could be
interesting.
I have an 81 DMC-12 which came totally stock, with the flap less hood and
the two embossed stiffeners on right and left sides. Like most new owners
I had all the dead battery, soft breaks, find the right tires, questions
and problems.
But now after a year and a new work shop and the right tools I can begin
to maintain and upgrade my D'.
One concern has always been getting stuck on the road for something un
repairable. a blown expansion bottle is one of those things that you
don't get on the road side. After reading all the cooling horror stories
and contemplating the thought of seeing steam rising up threw my louvers
I decided to order one of the stainless expansion tank, and switch out
the plastic one.
The job is a very straight forward project and only requires a few tools
and a bit of time. You need to remove 4 bolts and loosen two hose clamps.
I put a catch pan under the D to collect any spilled antifreeze. If you
are carful it's possible to remove the old expansion bottle with out
spilling any of the anti-freeze. I used a cut off bottled water bottle to
collect the remaining anti-freeze left in the larger of the two coolant
lines.
be sure to wash out the new expansion tank and rinse any soap residue
that may be left. This is to ensure that there are no metal filings or
crud in the bottle left over from the manufacturing process.
Installing the new stainless expansion bottle is not quite as easy,
because the smaller of the two hoses attaches in a slightly different
point. you will have to loosen the rear mounting bracket a bit and insert
the bolt and two washers threw the top front (hose end) mounting slot,
and start it in the mounting bracket. Next start the remaining 3 bolts
and washers by finger, and then checking that you don't pinch the
electric cables that pass behind the expansion tank, tighten up the bolts
with a wrench. Once the bolts are snug, slip the two hoses back on and
tighten the hose clamps. You can apply a bit of hose dressing to the
stainless nipples. this will help slid the hoses on to the nipples and
ensure a good water and pressure tight fit.
I only spilled about a tea spoon of Anti-Freeze, so by straining the
saved anti-freeze I could just pour it back into the new stainless
bottle. I had no need to add any water as the coolant in the main system
was never disturbed.
The whole process took about an hour, mostly due to cleaning I did while
I had the bottle out of the D'.
Thanks
Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 22:25:52 EST
From: MATT88D <MATT88D@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DeLorean Wanted/ DeLorean For Sale
DMLer's
I am posting the following messages for 2 gentlemen who do not have
internet
access.
DeLorean Wanted- Must be a 1983 in very good condition. All cars
considered.
DeLorean For Sale- A beautiful 1981 DeLorean (VIN 7XXX) with just over
7000
miles. I have had the opportunity to work on this car, it is completely
original ( no updates, a few bugs here and there- details upon request ).
It
has grey interior and an automatic transmission. Also includes the
optional
wide dealer stripe. This car is owned by the Dealer who originally sold
DeLoreans and is very well maintained.
For further information on either of these ads please contact me at
MATT88D@xxxxxxxx Thank you for your time.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 17:46:58 -0600
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx (Scott Mueller)
Subject: DML: Camellia Classic Car Show
Yesterday, I found out about the Camellia Classic Ca Show held today at
Bellingrath Gardens in Mobile Alabama.
Well I drove out there and entered my 1981 DeLorean in the show. I only
had about an hour to prepare and ended up taking second place in the
1980 to present class.
The Mobile Bay Mustang Club hosted the show and did a terrific job. If
you have ever toured the famous Bellingrath Gardens, then you will
probably agree with me that they are one of the most beautiful gardens
in the country.
I had a great time and spent the whole day talking about the car. The
traffic (people) was incrediable, you could tell by how thouroughly the
grass was trampled around my DeLorean.
Get your car out there and show it. Most shows have open classes for
cars like ours. I bet that if I had taken the time to detail it, I
would have recieved first place, I didn't even clean the trunk out.
I had the only DeLorean there, and the majority of the people I spoke
with had never seen one in person.
I'm looking forward to the next show I can enter.
Scott Mueller
vin 2981
BTW
Most of these car shows benifit some sort of charity, so you can write
off your entry fees.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 11:08:54 -0400
From: Richard Strecker <dmc1219@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: headlight problem
Jim,
That sounds like a dirty connection to one of the
headlights. The simplest fix is to remove the lamp & reseat
the connector on the rear of the lamp. Usually, it is the
lamp that is dim.
Richard
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 12:50:20 EDT
From: Dragnfly44 <Dragnfly44@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: ASI radio replacment
An alternative you might want to consider is a new shaft-style radio.
There
are several manufacturers who still make them, and many of these models
will
control a CD-changer. That way, you'd get the benefit of a modern,
higher-
powered radio coupled with CD-changer controls, AND you wouldn't have to
cut
the dash. Just a thought!
Brian Henderlong
Dragnfly44@xxxxxxx
DOA #4977
VIN #TBA
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 08:55:54 -0400
From: John Hanley <106165.1407@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Aluminium Wheel Repair & Restoration
Aluminium Wheel Repair & Restoration
Dear All,
I was recently attending a trade show ( International Retreaders ) the
Guys
in the booth next to me repaired and restored Aluminium Wheels.
I felt that this could be of interest to the readers of the list. The
company is Transwheel Corp who have facilities at Huntingdon Indiana, Elk
Grove Illinois and at Williamsport Maryland. telephone number 18003586006
They are able to repair clear coat corrosion and flange damage of one and
two piece aluminium wheels. They also do minor straightening. Their
inventory consists of approximately10-15,000 wheels, all of which are
original equipment. They are also able to restore most one and two piece
aftermarket wheels.
The cost of this process can range from $100 - $200, with a 24-36 hour
turn
around in their facility. Extra processes such as polishing and chroming
run a little higher in price. They do carry a lifetime warranty on their
clear coat, with the exception of wheel weights on the face of the wheel.
This gives the customer the option of either restoring their wheels or
using their exchange program to elevate down time on their vehicle.
Their process is only for cosmetic repairs on the wheels.. Any defects or
damage that would effect the structural integrity of the wheel, would not
be repairable. Damage in the outer diameter or lug holes would be non
repairable. Also, centre bends, and damage on the bead where the tire
seals is non repairable.
The shipping time for a sale or exchange wheel is either same day or one
day. The cost of shipping, regular ground is included in the price of
the wheel, expedited freight is offered at on extra cost. The wheels are
reconditioned to Like New condition.
Regards
John Hanley
V.I.N. # 16369
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 12:15:01 -0700
From: matthias@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Headliners fabric
Hi all.
I know that there is some company out there that restores
the headliners, but I'd like to do it myself. WDoes anybody
know where to get a close-to-original fabric?
Thanks
Matt
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 21:50:13 EDT
From: ABatt10347 <ABatt10347@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Cure for windsheild washers problems
Fellow DMCer's,
Having never had good luck with the standard washer on pass. side.(you
know it
only washes pass. side of windsheild!!!) I have solved the problem. I have
installed another washer on the drivers side. You will need to buy the
following: from an DMC parts company # 100806 (wiper arm jet), # 108035
(pipe
Ret. Extrusion), # SP10759 (clip). From any pet or discount store 5
ft.clear
air tubing ( kind used in fish tanks) and one brass "t" fitting (again,
type
used in fish tanks). Remove both wiper arms (make sure to note postion!).
Take
off the grill cover at base of windsheild and plug original tube into the
single end of the brass "t". Then plug line to original washer into one
side
of "t". Then new tubing into other side of "t". Clip part # 100806 onto
drivers side blade. Run new air tube under part # 108035, and clip #
SP10759.
Reinstall the cover grill and wiper arms you now have the ability to wash
BOTH
sides of you windsheild. Total cost of this project is under $10.00.
Time to complete is about 30 min.
Bruce Battles
Vin# 6569
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 08:48:49 -0400
From: Geoffroy Birtz <gbirtz@xxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DML: Lowering the D and 'camber'
> From: lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx[SMTP:lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
>
> Some where in my memory I seem to recall years ago reading about
>
> "lowering blocks. These were some kind of bolt on device that would
> allow
> for the compression and locking the springs to lower a car? If this is
>
> correct why not get them for the D? it would save a lot of effort and
> expense!
>
Bad Idea ! If your talking about what I'm thinking, a bracket thing that
compresses a couple a coils in the spring, then I have to advise to
stay clear ! Car coil springs are non linear. If you "take out " a
section by clamping it shut you'll end up bottoming out a lot more
and/or having a much rougher ride and risking an uneven match between
both sides. Suspension is a big part of handling messing with it in such
a way could even turn out to be dangerous.
that 's my two cents.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 09:52:03 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Steamed-up rear side windows
The rear windows on either side of my engine compartment have
steamed up many times before. It usually happens after I drive my
DeLorean through a puddle that splashes water on the hot engine.
Sometimes the fog doesn't clear up for hours.
I did try applying some of that No Fog spray to the glass, with
unimpressive results. Maybe I just put it on wrong, but after a few days
my windows were fogging up again.
On the plus side, the engine heat seems to keep the back window from
fogging up at all. My back defogger works, but I never use it. When I
drive through a puddle the back window fogs up with the others, but the
fog clears itself within seconds, usually faster than I can reach for the
defogger switch, even when the A/C is switced off.
I have always assumed that my engine produced this super- defogging
effect for me. Whatever does it, I take it as a clear sign that the side
windows are a different temperature than the back window.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 12:37:04 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Latest CarTalk Survey Results
The latest CarTalk ownership surver results are in! You can find them at:
http://cartalk.msn.com/Survey/Results/
As before, the DeLorean still ranks higher than any car in the world for
owner loyalty. When asked "Would you buy the same make again?"
about 88% of us said yes. This has slipped from 95% in the previous
survey a few months ago, but it is still good. Triumph's loyalty rating
is
catching up with DeLorean.
Because of the DeLorean's #1 rank in ownership loyalty, perhaps Tom
and Ray Magliozzi (hosts of the show) will mention it on an upcoming
edition of CarTalk.
Other tidbits from the survey:
Average age of DeLorean owners looks to be about 36 years.
About 35% of DeLorean owners have kids.
Surprisingly, only about 48% of DeLorean owners claim to follow
maintenance procedures religiously.
The sample of DeLorean owners who responded is still far below 1% of
all car owners who responded, but it is more than Lotus, Lamborghini, or
Ferrari.
If you read the comments section, you will find that a few negative
comments have appeared. It seems that some of our cars have needed
a LOT of expensive maintenance. Could this be due to long term storage
of DeLoreans?
The data for cost of maintenance seems to be skewed by a few people
who erroneously reported the year when their DeLoreans were built. I
am pretty sure there are no 1992 DeLoreans out there. See the graph at:
http://cartalk.msn.com/Survey/Results/Repair-Costs/ownership-over-time.html
And these graphs compare the repair costs of specific system for
DeLoreans of different years:
http://cartalk.msn.com/Survey/Results/Repair-Costs/repair.html
Note here that sample size for specific years of DeLorean seems to
skew the data. For 1981 DeLoreans, which seem to have the most data,
maintenance comes out a little bit more expensive than other 1981 cars. I
suspect this is also due to long term storage. The fact that 1981
DeLorean automatic transmissions seem to be MORE reliable than
5-speeds probably indicates that only one or two people with 1981
automatic DeLoreans responded. For 82 and 83 the sample for certain
repairs seems to be zero.
And a lot of the data for people who have low maintenance may be lost
due to errors reporting the car's build year. The person who claimed to
have a 1992 DeLorean has lower maintenance costs than the average
1992 car!
Finally, if you still haven't taken the survey, you can find it at:
http://cartalk.msn.com/Info/newsurvey.html
If you have a fast modem it takes about 20 minutes to complete the
survey. If you have taken it before you might want to take it again, and
make sure you get your build year right!
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 14:33:15 EDT
From: VickRich <VickRich@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: VIN#
Hey,
I need some info on VIN #'s. I said my VIN # was 0150, and someone
said
it was a really low number. My car is a 1982 built in Dec.1981, the
Serial #
is 10,150 do I say the car is VIN#0150 or VIN# 10150? Is this the way to
tell
how old it is?
Thanks for info.
Vickie
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 10:44:48 -0500
From: steve r <stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Louisiana Meeting?
It has been a while since i last mentioned having a small meeting in
Louisianna. If there are any people who live nearby feel free to
contact me via email- stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx
I have already found two people that live near New Orleans that may
decide to goto this small, informal meeting. I previously went to the
meeting in Greenvill, AL and it was great. I think it would be nice if
i could get a few people in Louisianna to get together and have some fun
talking about the one and only car,"DeLorean"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 14:53:19 -0600
From: Greg Guillot <gguillot@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Axle Nuts
Does anybody know the size of the front axle nuts? I need to remove
the rotors. I now the must be around 30 -35mm in diameter.
************************************************
Morial Convention Center - New Orleans
Greg Guillot, Director of Info Systems & Services
900 Convention Center Blvd,New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone (504) 582-3116,Fax (504) 582-3104
Email gguillot@xxxxxxxxx
************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 12:07:39 -0700
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Vandalizim and Starting problems.
Well, I went to see a movie at my local cineplex on Saturday. I had a
nice
drive there with my wife, we parked the car and went inside to catch the
4:00 show. Upon returning to the Delorean, I noticed something that
hadn't
been there before. A key scratch that went the length of the driver's
door,
and a key scratch on the passenger side rear facia.
After an hour with the scotchbrite I managed to get all but about 6" of
the
driver's side scratch off, but it's just too deep. Does anyone have
suggestions on blending deep scratches?
To top it all off, it wouldn't start at the theatre so I had to tow it
home. This is the same starting problem that I've had since I've owned
the
car, and here's what I found, maybe someone could shed some light as to
why...
1) Turning the key to the start position intermittently starts the car.
(Most of the time it doesn't)
2) When the car doesn't start, there is no noise from the engine (i.e. no
starter solenoid clicking)
3) When I pull out the #10 start inhibit relay and jump the top and bottom
connections, the car starts without a problem. (Because of this, I have
wired a button to these connections, so I can start it when the key
doesn't
work)
So, does anyone have an idea why the start inhibit relay isn't connecting?
I tried swapping relays with one that works, but that didn't help. I just
put a new wiring harness in the transmission, so it's probably not the
neutral safety switch, could it be the ignition switch? (it switches off
the A/C illumination like it should when in the run position, so that's
probably not it..)
Thanks!
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 98 16:31:20 PDT
From: "Brandon S. Moody" <bsmoody@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Vandalizim and Starting problems.
> driver's side scratch off, but it's just too deep. Does anyone have
> suggestions on blending deep scratches?
I use Sand paper. Anywhere from 80 to 150 Grit. Just depends on
the existing grain pattern.
- -Brandon
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 18:09:06 -0400
From: Mike Griese <magriese@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Jellyfish & DMC Models
I just got back from a business trip to the bay area and had an
opportunity
to spend an evening with Lee Seiler. Lee showed me the DeLorean
model prototypes, and I can say without a doubt, those of us lucky enough
to be on the list will be pleased with the kits. The level of detail is
very
good,
with plenty of opportunity to add such items as wiring harnesses, brake
and
fuel lines, etc. should you be so inclined. The iron-on transfers are
pretty
slick also, with a cool 3-D effect when viewed through slightly polarized
lenses.
We also spent some time kicking around Lee's garage (1/24 scale is nice,
but the 1:1 is why we're here). We finished up the evening with a dinner
of jellyfish, walnut prawns and a bunch of other good stuff at a terrific
Chinese restaurant that I couldn't find again if my life depended on it.
My
thanks
to Lee for taking time out of his busy schedule to talk DeLoreans and
diving.
Michael A. Griese
IBM Storage Systems Division
Rochester, MN 55901
Internet: magriese@xxxxxxxxxx
voice: (507)253-1853
fax: (507)253-2880
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 18:16:29 -0400
From: Mike Griese <magriese@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Fascia Paint
As far as I have been able to figure out, there were 2 different colors
of fascia. My car has a darker shade of metallic grey that does contrast
with the stainless. The other color is more silver in color and contains
less metallic flake. This color is a closer match to the stainless. If
you
have ever seen the two different wheel colors, that is pretty close to
the differences. Personally, I prefer the darker color on the fascia
because it doesn't look like you tried to match the stainless but
couldn't.
On the other hand, I prefer the lighter color wheels.
Michael A. Griese
IBM Storage Systems Division
Rochester, MN 55901
Internet: magriese@xxxxxxxxxx
voice: (507)253-1853
fax: (507)253-2880
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 19:19:54 EDT
From: VickRich <VickRich@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Exhaust System
I need help...on removal and replacement of the gasket from between the
exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. Anyone know the size it takes? It
seems
to be an O-Ring style. There's nothing (no instructions) in the owner's
Handbook.
Also, is KAPAC CO.(DeLorean Parts Depot) 400 Dublin Ave., Columbus, Ohio
still
in business? I believe he bought the factory in Ireland.
FYI: I have the wiring diagram / Symbol Key and Location Legend.
All help will be appreciated
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 18:27:15 -0500
From: "Tim Hansen" <thansen@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Help! My wheel just sucked a valve stem!!
This is a little weird. I go out to the garage to touch up the DeLorean
for
another prospective buyer (tonight) and the right front tire is flat. So
I
get out the air compressor and plan on airing it up and throwing a can of
Fix-a-Flat in there until I can get new tires. I connect the air hose to
the wheel, and BANG!, there's a puff of white dust and the valve stem is
completely inside the wheel. All the air runs out of the tire, and
there's
a broken nut-type thing and a white plastic washer lying next to the
wheel.
What happened? Is this easy to fix? Or do I need new wheels now?
HELP!
While I'm asking questions, how come my battery simply will not hold a
charge?
Tim Hansen
thansen@xxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 19:30:27 -0500
From: DMC-FLUX <dmc-flux@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Aluminium Wheel Repair & Restoration
Hello John,
Sunday, 5 April 98, you wrote:
JH> in the booth next to me repaired and restored Aluminium Wheels.
JH> I felt that this could be of interest to the readers of the list. The
JH> company is Transwheel Corp who have facilities at Huntingdon Indiana,
Elk
JH> Grove Illinois and at Williamsport Maryland. telephone number
18003586006
(SNIP)
JH> Regards
JH> John Hanley
JH> V.I.N. # 16369
I have experience with Transwheel. I had my wheels done last year by
them. I have one of their employees come to my plant every week and
pick through our wheel pile. We have about 3 million pounds of wheels
there on a weekly basis. They in turn refurbish and sell
to insurance companies. They did a fantastic job. Dave Bauerle
worked on my car over the winter and could not tell the difference
between his and mine. I would recommend them to anyone.
Best regards,
Dmc-flux mailto:dmc-flux@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 18:59:39 -0400
From: James Senft <jpsenft@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: washer bottle and O2 sensor questions
Tried to replace the leaking windshield washer bottle. Removed all
screws which hide bottle. Removed old bottle. Confirmed new was
exactle same size. Installed new bottle. Tried to put lower cover back
on...all screw holes at least 1/2 " off of where they should be.
Forcing the bottle appears to be reason original was cracked. It looks
like something inside the fender needs to be modified. Anyone
successfully done this?
Second...tried to replace O2 sensor. Got wrench on it from below. Gave
it my 220 pounds of pull. Can not budge the thing. What is the best
was to remove the old O2 sensor???
Thanks for assistance. Jim in Maryland
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 20:46:48 EDT
From: DMC3309 <DMC3309@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Headliners fabric
When I restored the headliner last year in my 81, the only option was to
take
a sample to the local upolstery shop. Although we could not find an exact
match we found one that was very close. The shop I bought the headliner
material from also recovered the sun visors to match. I dont know of any
company that supplies an exact match.
Robert
VIN 3309
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 21:09:55 EDT
From: LZeitgeist <LZeitgeist@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Vandalism problems.
In a message dated 98-04-06 17:47:36 EDT, davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Dave
Price)
wrote:
> Well, I went to see a movie at my local cineplex on Saturday. I had a
> nice
> drive there with my wife, we parked the car and went inside to catch the
> 4:00 show. Upon returning to the Delorean, I noticed something that
> hadn't
> been there before. A key scratch that went the length of the driver's
> door,
> and a key scratch on the passenger side rear facia.
>
Is this something that happens often to you lucky people who own
DeLoreans?
I'm planning on getting one in a few years, and I would just like to know
ahead of time if I need to set myself up to expect the worst every time I
park
it somewhere public...
Thanks for the info...
LZeitgeist@xxxxxxx -- Patrick W. Heinske
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 21:05:17 EDT
From: KKoncelik <KKoncelik@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Does anyone know?
I have been asked by a number of people registering for the Cincinnati Car
Show if I knew what the record was for the most DeLoreans in one place at
one
time. Other than I know there were around 100 for the Universal opening I
have no idea since I have been an owner for only 2 1/2 years.
Can anyone out ther help with this one. A few people said the DeLorean
concourse in Las Vegas but I have heard various numbers on that one.
James
maybe you could help on this one.
Also an update This week more folks from Illinoise, Ohio, Michigan,
Wisconson
and New Jersey. Registered DeLoreans now stand at 32 so far with the rush
still to come at the end of the month.
Again thanks for your support and there are tables available for anyone to
show or sell their DeLorean goods and they are at no cost.
thanks
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 19:39:39 -0800
From: "tomcio" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DML: Vandalizim and Starting problems.
Hi,
The problem you are talking about seems to be in the ignition switch.
If the contacts are dirty they have a higher impendance. When you
turn the key on there is enough power going thru to supply the A/C
illuminator but the relay is probably taking more power than the
bulbs thus causing voltage to drop below the point where the relay
can operate. So, the A/C panel will work ok, but the starter relay
will not work at all. What you can do is buy a spray contact cleaner
(Radio Shack will have it) and spray the contacts inside the ignition
switch. You will probably need to take the ignition switch apart. I
don't know for sure. Good luck.
Tom
vin 6298
>1) Turning the key to the start position intermittently starts the
>car. (Most of the time it doesn't)
>2) When the car doesn't start, there is no noise from the engine
>(i.e. no starter solenoid clicking)
>3) When I pull out the #10 start inhibit relay and jump the top and bottom
>connections, the car starts without a problem. (Because of this, I have
>wired a button to these connections, so I can start it when the key
>doesn't work)
>
>So, does anyone have an idea why the start inhibit relay isn't connecting?
>I tried swapping relays with one that works, but that didn't help. I just
>put a new wiring harness in the transmission, so it's probably not the
>neutral safety switch, could it be the ignition switch? (it switches off
>the A/C illumination like it should when in the run position, so that's
>probably not it..)
>
>Thanks!
>Dave
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 19:52:19 -0800
From: "tomcio" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DML: Exhaust System
Hi,
it is Volvo part number: 12183373-7 . You can also find additional
parts crossrefrence at http://www.dmc12.com/crossref.htm . Good luck.
Tom
vin 6298
VickRich <VickRich@xxxxxxx> wrote on Monday April 6, 1998 at 5:08pm:
>
>I need help...on removal and replacement of the gasket from between the
>exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. Anyone know the size it takes? It
>seems
>to be an O-Ring style. There's nothing (no instructions) in the owner's
>Handbook.
>
>Also, is KAPAC CO.(DeLorean Parts Depot) 400 Dublin Ave., Columbus, Ohio
>still in business? I believe he bought the factory in Ireland.
>
>FYI: I have the wiring diagram / Symbol Key and Location Legend.
>
>All help will be appreciated
>
>Rich
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 23:19:35 EDT
From: JSteuben <JSteuben@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Exhaust System
Hi, Take heart. I just went through the same thing with my car. Are you
located in So. Cal? Even if you are not, contact Don Steger @ DeLorean
Motor
Center (714) 554-6794. A volvo gasket (yes, singular) will work just
fine.
The big trick is to keep from breaking exhaust manifold studs when you
take
the headers off. If you can, pay a pro. This is one job that can turn
into a
nightmare fast. While your at it, do both manifolds, its cheap insurance.
BTW, the car runs like a hot knife in butter now. Good luck, Joe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 22:50:53 -0500
From: "Jameel Ahed" <ahed@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: surgery update!
Dear DML,
Surgery has been completed!
http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/surgery.html
I am sorry that it takes forever to load up! I will be working on
thumbnails and comments shortly!
Jameel
Jameel Ahed CEO of CyberTECH Industries
Consultant for VOITECH Computer Solutions
HOMEPAGE: http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/
VOITECH: http://www.voitech.com
EMAIL: mailto:ahed@xxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 20:54:07 -0700
From: "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger01@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Post trim removal.
Well I finally figured out why the radio (original) in my '81 DMC was not
working.
The antenna wire is not connected to the windshield antenna connector. I
think the
windshield was replaced two owners ago. The problem is that I can can't
get
the
antenna wire on the connector without removing the post trim. Someone
recently
requested details for removing the trim, but I didn't see a reply. Can
anyone help?
Also, while I am at it. Is the turn signal supposed to have a reset after
turning steering wheel. Mine doesn't.
Thanks
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 21:22:33 -1000
From: "Thomas Smithson" <tsassoc@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: KAPAC is now DMC Houston (was: Exhaust System)
Vick, DMC Houston bought the KAPAC inventory I believe. They'll be happy
to
help you. Aloha!
Thom Smithson
VIN #3089
- ----------
> From: VickRich <VickRich@xxxxxxx>
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: Exhaust System
> Date: Monday, April 06, 1998 1:19 PM
>
>
(SNIP)
>
> Also, is KAPAC CO.(DeLorean Parts Depot) 400 Dublin Ave., Columbus, Ohio
> still in business? I believe he bought the factory in Ireland.
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 03:39:08 -0800
From: "tomcio" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: need engine parts
Hi everybody,
I'm buying an engine that was on fire, so I'm gonna need new fuel
distributor (part#102807). DMC wants almost a $1000 for a new one.
Does anybody know if there is a replacement for it?
As far as I know it is a modified Volvo distributor made by Bosch.
I also need engine harness (part#110185), injectors (part#102742),
mixture control unit (part#102789), injection pipes (8 in all), warm
up regulator (part#102353). I'm looking for replacements or used ones.
Please help!!! Thanks.
Tom
vin #6298
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 08:40:26 -0400
From: Geoffroy Birtz <gbirtz@xxxxxx>
Subject: DML: radios and tinted windows
... in the already crappy OEM radio ...
> Dave Swingle
>
>
Just a comment here, but I still have the orriginal Graig in my 83 with
the original speakers and it sounds quite nice. Did I just luck out ?
I'm also thinking of getting the side windows tinted with #35 film. Not
only do I think that black windows will look good with the ss, but this
may help in reducing the inside temp on those sunny days. Anybody ever
done this ?
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #348
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