dmcnews-digest Monday, May 4 1998 Volume 03 : Number 361
In this issue:
Re: DML: Need an engine
DML: Code Alert
DML: 4 questions: door lights, window, cold start, leak
DML: DeLorean Feature Film
DML: Shifting Problems
Re: DML: Rear Wheel Alignment
DML: Defrost switch
DML: Re: 4 questions: door lights, window, cold start, leak
DML: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment
DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
Re: DML: Exhaust Manifold Gasket
DML: useless horn
DML: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment
DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
DML: Re: Need an engine
Re: DML: Shifting Problems...
Re: DML: Shifting Problems...
Re: DML: Gas Guage
Re: DML: Hmmm.. Let's clear up something...
DML: Trip Odometer Reset
Re: DML: Re: Need an engine
Re: DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
Re: DML: Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Re: DML: DeLorean Feature Film
Re: DML: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment
Re: DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
Re: DML: Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Re: DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
Re: DML: Gas Guage
Re: DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
Re: DML: Hmmm.. Let's clear up something...
Re: DML: Trip Odometer Reset
Re: DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
Re: DML: Defrost switch
DML: BRAIDED CLUTCH LINE
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 02 May 1998 16:48:58 -0400
From: Vicki Miller <"1000mil@xxxxxxx"@gte.net>
Subject: Re: DML: Need an engine
Ronald Pohala wrote:
>
> I need an engine for a standard shift Delorean. Someone was advertising
> but
> I can't find it now. Email if you have one for sale with the details. I
> could get away with just buying the heads.Ronald,
I have repeatedly try to email you......
they are being returned-user unknown...I have a motor if your
interested...... call me bob
919-383-6187 thank you
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 02 May 1998 16:37:45 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Code Alert
To: All
I have a new (used) Code Alert Elite2000se Auto alarm system for
sale.
It is brand new but Installed in my D wrong. I have removed it and decided
to use a different type.
features:
1. Lock and unlock doors
2. Trunk entrance,
3, Starter motor lock-out
4. Ign Lock-out
5. Dome light
6. Parking lights
7. siren
8. Shock sensor
9. Valet Option
10. Disarm option
Original cost $400
Make an offer!
Contact me at lee@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Lee Seiler
81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 02 May 1998 22:08:25 -0700
From: Daniel McGauley <hawkeye@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: 4 questions: door lights, window, cold start, leak
I'm having three problems I was hoping somebody could help with:
1) door lights: DMC Houston fixed my 6 door lights and they were working
great, but now my passenger side lights are all dead. I put a
multimeter
on each harness and I'm getting .15 volts, but on the driver's side (the
working side) I'm getting around 12 volts on each. I'm not sure where
to
go from there. All other electronic devices on that door are working
fine.
2) window: DMC Houston replaced both regulators on my doors and fixed
some
other small problems, and both windows were working great, but a few
miles
from DMC Houston, my passenger side window stopped working right. The
right side of the window (from the inside) drops correctly, but the
white
plastic piece on the left isn't correctly attached to the piece of guide
metal. I removed the black coverings on the inside of the door to get
to
this area, and I can nudge the piece of metal (the guide) a little
toward
me and then the window will lower over the white 'lips' of the plastic
piece, but I'm not sure how to permanently adjust that to get it to
work.
Any suggestions?
3) cold start: I had a MSD unit put into the car to replace a bad ECU
unit
and it works great except now I'm having a cold start problem. The car
starts fine when the engine's cold, but it's sluggish for a while and
backfires a bit. When I step on the gas the car pauses for a second,
then
starts to accelerate, but the car is not acting happy. After a few
miles/minutes the car warms up and runs great. I used to have a cold
start
problem, but got that all fixed before having the MSD unit put in. Is
there any way that unit could affect the car this way?
4) leak: I used to be able to drive the car in the rain just fine, but
after my overhaul, I'm having some big problems with the rain. DMC
Houston
did some work on my torsion bars, so I'm not sure if that has anything
to
do with it, but now when I'm driving in the rain, or after I wash my
car, I
get tons of water coming in around my front reading light overhead. I
looked in the general area where it might be leaking and there's just
tons
of tarish type of black goo there. Should I just plaster more stuff
like
that in the corner?
Thanks in advance!
- -Daniel McGauley
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 02 May 1998 22:53:50 -0700
From: Daniel McGauley <hawkeye@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DeLorean Feature Film
As some of you may know, I've been trying to option John DeLorean's
autobiography in the attempts to produce a feature film on the man. Well,
the other day I got a nice letter from him and he informed me that another
production company recently optioned his book (meaning they paid a portion
of the full amount for the book and will either have to pay the rest of it
after a year or return the rights and John keeps the option money). That's
good news and bad news. Bad news, is that I won't be able to start work on
the film until after their option is up and only if they return the option.
The good news is that the chances of a DeLorean feature film being
produced in the next few years is very high! If this production company
doesn't follow through with their attempts (which they should since they
paid quite a bit for the option), then I most definitely will. John said
he'll call me when their option is up if they return it.
- -Daniel McGauley
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 00:08:26 EDT
From: NJP548 <NJP548@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Shifting Problems
Hey List,
As to my previous posting I forgot to say that when I first got the car
i got
it to go in reverse and it went up the driveway fine. That was back in
January and ever since then it hasn't moved except for when my brother
drove
it home from where it was getting fixed. What my brother said was that
my car
had a ground problem and the car was using the crossgate cable as a
ground
wire and it sorta melted. This is what I think is wrong with the
shifter:
when this cable melted, or broke the crossgate must have been on the
side
where it controls the 3rd 4th and 5th gears and it disconnected from the
tranny. So when I put the car in either 1st, 2nd or reverse the
crossgate
cable isn't moving over to that side and it is just moving the gear into
3rd
or 4th so I think I just need that crossgate cable, Does anyone have
one for
sale?? E-mail me directly. I hope this helped anyone that was tyring
to help
me fix my problem and when I get that cable I will tell if it worked,
thanks
Later,
Nick
VIN#1852
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 03:03:32 EDT
From: Kayo Ong <KayoOng@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Rear Wheel Alignment
Marc,
Hi, it is me Kayo. I see your new findings about your rear wheels and
suspension.
It takes more then 5 miles for the springs to "re-seat" itself. Your
height
and alignment problem will most likely reappear again, very soon. I am
sorry
to tell you that. I do hope it goes away! On the scientific side of
reality, the height and angle will be back to the "bad" angle as the
normal
set up by the last owner or owners. One thing for sure, if it does
settle
back to the usual "bad" wheel angle, it will mean replacement with the
proper
correct springs and realignment. Don't kill your new tires.
If I remember there was a conversation I had with Mr. John Truscott
about a
year and a half ago. This was concerning the springs and lowering. If
the
springs are "cut" for the height without the "correct finish ending" on
the
spring for seating, or if they are too short, the scenario you have with
your
wheel alignment is one of those issues and results he was telling me
about.
I do remember he said a whole new trailing arm parts and system needs to
be
constructed for the additional adjustments to straighten out the wheel
alignments. No one will make or go into production in producing these
parts
for insurance and liability problems. Give him a call for further
details.
Anyway, hope you resolve the problem soon and cheaply.
Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic 9D NY
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 01:18:23 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Defrost switch
To All:
One of the problems we all face is the replacement of components
that are
no longer available. One such item that is becoming harder to find is
the
Defrost switch that is located next to the window control switch.
You can get a new switch that just plugs in but the rocker top
is narrower
by 3/8th inch. If you just pull the old switch and replace it with the
new
switch the gap between the switches is uneven.
I ordered the new switch knowing it was only 1 inch wide while
the
original is 1 and three eighths wide. The length and high are the same.
To
retain the original look of the switch bank I cut out the interior of
the
old rocker top, cut down the rocker top of the new switch and then epoxy
the old original top to it.
The modification in no way interferes with the operation and
there is no
way once installed to tell the switch is not original. It installs just
as
the original did with the original wiring plug.
I thought that any one who has already done the replacement and
noticed
that the replacements are not exactly the same size might like to know
how
to get the original look back.
Lee Seiler
81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 10:00:10 -0400
From: "Joe LoRe'" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: 4 questions: door lights, window, cold start, leak
1. R.H. door lights in operative: Un-plug the purple/blue wire from the
door switch and run a temporary wire to ground. If the lights come on
you
probably have a bad door switch or a bad ground wire (black) at the
switch.
2. Window off track: Contact the DeLorean Owners Assn. Products Division
and get a back issue of DeLorean World Magazine Issue #10, on page 25
you
will find a detailed procedures and pictures on correcting an "off
track"
condition.
3. Cold start problem: Do you have a cold running condition or cold
start
problem? Sounds like it's a cold running problem. What is an MSD? Not
sure
why you had your ECU changed, they rarely go bad. Before I would advise
you
on this problem I suggest you replace the Bosch ECU which is specified
for
the car.
4. Water leak. Your right, the leak is probably a result of the work
done
on the torsion bar. There is a water leak bulletin ST-33-12/81 available
from the same source for DeLorean World Magazine.
COMMENT: All of the above problems that are a result of service on your
car
you should bring the car back to the service organization and have them
correct the problem or ask for a refund.
Joe, DeLorean Services.
- ----------
> From: Daniel McGauley <hawkeye@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: 4 questions: door lights, window, cold start, leak
> Date: Sunday, May 03, 1998 1:08 AM
>
> I'm having three problems I was hoping somebody could help with:
>
> 1) door lights: DMC Houston fixed my 6 door lights and they were
working
> great, but now my passenger side lights are all dead. I put a
> multimeter
> on each harness and I'm getting .15 volts, but on the driver's side
(the
> working side) I'm getting around 12 volts on each. I'm not sure where
> to
> go from there. All other electronic devices on that door are working
> fine.
>
> 2) window: DMC Houston replaced both regulators on my doors and fixed
> some
> other small problems, and both windows were working great, but a few
> miles
> from DMC Houston, my passenger side window stopped working right. The
> right side of the window (from the inside) drops correctly, but the
> white
> plastic piece on the left isn't correctly attached to the piece of
guide
> metal. I removed the black coverings on the inside of the door to get
> to
> this area, and I can nudge the piece of metal (the guide) a little
> toward
> me and then the window will lower over the white 'lips' of the plastic
> piece, but I'm not sure how to permanently adjust that to get it to
> work.
> Any suggestions?
>
> 3) cold start: I had a MSD unit put into the car to replace a bad ECU
> unit
> and it works great except now I'm having a cold start problem. The
car
> starts fine when the engine's cold, but it's sluggish for a while and
> backfires a bit. When I step on the gas the car pauses for a second,
> then
> starts to accelerate, but the car is not acting happy. After a few
> miles/minutes the car warms up and runs great. I used to have a cold
> start
> problem, but got that all fixed before having the MSD unit put in. Is
> there any way that unit could affect the car this way?
>
> 4) leak: I used to be able to drive the car in the rain just fine, but
> after my overhaul, I'm having some big problems with the rain. DMC
> Houston
> did some work on my torsion bars, so I'm not sure if that has anything
> to
> do with it, but now when I'm driving in the rain, or after I wash my
> car, I
> get tons of water coming in around my front reading light overhead. I
> looked in the general area where it might be leaking and there's just
> tons
> of tarish type of black goo there. Should I just plaster more stuff
> like
> that in the corner?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Daniel McGauley
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 10:25:58 -0500
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment
>
> My car had been lowered by the previous owner by the "cut and swap"
> method. I noticed a few years ago that the rear wheels seemed to sit at
> a small angle.
>
> I am not sure of the technical term (positive/negitive camber, or
> whatever..) but the wheel is at a angle such that the top of the
> opposite tires are further from each other than the bottoms.
>
> One side looks a bit more angled than the other.
> There are 2 shims on both trailing arms. (if that matters)
>
> The really strange thing is, when I put the tires back on, and lowered
> the car, it did not look so bad any more, in fact it was hard to see any
> angle at all.
>
> I bounced the car a few times, and even took it for a quick 5 mile
> drive.. It still looked ok.
>
> So, What's going on? Any ideas?
>
> Marc
The only adjustment at the rear is done by installing or removing the shims
you mentioned to adjust rear toe-in. Some cars can have more shims on one
side than the other. When the car is lowered beyond a certain point the
physics of the length of the upper and lower control arms come into play
and the wheels show a bit of negative camber. In other words, the bottom of
the wheels are outboard more than the tops. My car is lowered quite low and
I have a slight bit of negative camber. I've mentioned before that I think
this helps handling with the rear engine, rear weight bias that this car
has. I've noticed no uneven wear to date. Don Steger, at the DeLorean Motor
Center in Garden Grove, Calif. sells reworked lower control arms that have
an adjustable, threaded center much like a turnbuckel. These allow rear
camber adjustment to whatever degree works best for you.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 10:26:14 -0500
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
> I looked in the Parts Manual, and see that this is how it is shown in
> the manual (Section 4, Subsection 4, Group 1). So, where is this rubber
> line that is replaced with the steel braid?!
>
> Marc
You were looking at the right thing. It's really plastic, not rubber. When
it gets soft from warm temperatures some of the hydralic energy is wasted
expanding the plastic rather than pushing the piston in the slave
cylinder to its full stoke. Most new cars and trucks use hyrdralic systems
on their clutchs and they successfully use plastic lines but that's because
they're short lines
with their front mounted engines. The problem with the DeLorean is the
length of the
plastic line and the fact that there are coolant lines, full of hot
coolant, running alongside the clutch line.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 11:33:00 EDT
From: VickRich <VickRich@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Dave,
We just had our DeLorean in the shop, they replaced a gasket, put it
all
back together and found more leaks. What they did cost $200., now they want
$1500 to finish the job because they have to drop the engine. What a mess!
Vickie
VIN#10150
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 11:35:18 -0400
From: guy.delor@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: useless horn
Hi all!
I've got a little problem since I got my car out
of storage: the horn doesn'blow any more.
I checked in the manual for the related fuse or
relay but I found nothing. Is there someone able
to help me? I don't like driving without it...
Hey! you never know when you will really need it.
Thanks!
Guy V. Boutet
'81 DMC-12
'87 Supra
'84 Eurosport
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 12:30:55 -0400
From: "Joe LoRe'" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment
Marc, The condition your describing is positive camber. PG Grady and DMC
Houston are correct, cutting springs is a no no, especially on a
performance suspension. Save yourself time & energy and get rid of the
cut
(butchered) springs than get your car to an alignment shop, preferably a
shop that handles performance cars and have it re-aligned.
Joe/DeLorean Services.----------
> From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: Delorean List <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: DML: Rear Wheel Alignment
> Date: Saturday, May 02, 1998 12:22 PM
>
> My car had been lowered by the previous owner by the "cut and swap"
> method. I noticed a few years ago that the rear wheels seemed to sit
at
> a small angle.
>
> I am not sure of the technical term (positive/negitive camber, or
> whatever..) but the wheel is at a angle such that the top of the
> opposite tires are further from each other than the bottoms.
>
> One side looks a bit more angled than the other.
>
> I called PJ Grady, and DMC Houston last week. Both recommended
> replacing the springs with new manufactured lowering springs.
>
> DMC Houston Recommended that I also check the upper and lower control
> arms, because the lowering of the car should not cause the alignment
> problem.
>
> The current height of the car is 4.25 inches clearance. DMC Houston's
> springs, I was told, Bring the car up to 5.5 inches. I kinda like it
> the height it is, but..... Performance is more important.
>
> I removed the tires this morning, and checked all the bushings and
> control arms. They seem to look OK. The control arms do not sit
> perfectly even in their places, but it does not look all that bad.
>
> There are 2 shims on both trailing arms. (if that matters)
>
> The really strange thing is, when I put the tires back on, and lowered
> the car, it did not look so bad any more, in fact it was hard to see
any
> angle at all.
>
> I bounced the car a few times, and even took it for a quick 5 mile
> drive.. It still looked ok.
>
> So, What's going on? Any ideas?
>
> Marc
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 12:34:28 -0400
From: "Joe LoRe'" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
Marc, The clutch line in question is plastic, not rubber, the black line
you see at the top of your trans is the line you're replacing.
Bob/DeLorean Services
- ----------
> From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: Delorean List <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: DML: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
> Date: Saturday, May 02, 1998 12:02 PM
>
> For those of you who have done the steel braid clutch line on your
> Manual D's, I have a question:
>
> Where is the line that you are replacing?
>
> Without ever looking at the slave cylinder, I just assumed it was the
> hose that went in to the slave cylinder. Today I was under my car,
> (Quick check on the trailing arm bolts) and figured I will take a look
> at the slave cylinder.
>
> I dont see a rubber line goin to the cylinder. It is a solid metal line
> that goes to a brket on top of the trans. Then, from their a long more
> flexible hose (not rubber) to the master cylinder.
>
> I looked in the Parts Manual, and see that this is how it is shown in
> the manual (Section 4, Subsection 4, Group 1). So, where is this rubber
> line that is replaced with the steel braid?!
>
> Marc
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 12:03:03 -0400
From: "Joe LoRe'" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Need an engine
Have engine 2,300 mi., no distributor, car had contaminated gas so most
fuel injection parts will need to be replaced.
DeLorean Services
- ----------
> From: Ronald Pohala <rpohala@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: Need an engine
> Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 5:52 PM
>
> I need an engine for a standard shift Delorean. Someone was
advertising
> but
> I can't find it now. Email if you have one for sale with the details.
I
> could get away with just buying the heads.
>
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 11:14:07 -0700
From: Mike Hirko <wawazat1@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Shifting Problems...
NJP548 wrote:
>
> Hey List,
>
> My 5 Speed DeLorean does not go into Reverse, First and Second Gears.
> It
> goes into Third, Fourth and Fifth gears fine. I was thinking it might be
a
> broken cable or something but I could use some help if anyone has any??
> Thanks.
>
> Later,
> Nick
Nick:
I once let a friend (?) drive my D. He tried to put it in reverse
without lifting up on the shifter, and the problem you describe
resulted. I finally traced it to an overtravel of the bellcrank, which
is midway between the console shifter and the shifter arms on the
transmission. The bellcrank is located up in the frame near the "X" and
is only accessable from underneath. What I did is unhook the bellcrank
to transmission connection and flip the bellcrank (forward, I think)
then reconnect the transmission link. All was well. But I've gotten
numerous libations from the friend (?) that thinks he trashed my D!
Mike Hirko aka wawazat (vanity plate: it's what people say as I
drive by)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 11:27:26 -0700
From: Mike Hirko <wawazat1@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Shifting Problems...
NJP548 wrote:
>
> Hey List,
>
> My 5 Speed DeLorean does not go into Reverse, First and Second Gears.
> It
> goes into Third, Fourth and Fifth gears fine. I was thinking it might be
a
> broken cable or something but I could use some help if anyone has any??
> Thanks.
>
> Later,
> Nick
Nick:
On reflection, I believe my problem was not identical to yours. I
think my car's shifting was stuck in second or third only. But, anyway,
check the bellcrank. It's fairly simple & easy to do. The symptoms of my
problem were: Could not move the shifter lever at all when connections
were made at the shifter in the console and at the transmission (as
normal). When disconnected at either end, the shift lever would move, as
would the shifter arms at the transmission. When reconnected, would lock
up again. Don Steger at DeLorean Motor Center by phone diagnosed my
problem & his bellcrank suggestion solved the problem. I suggest that
you give him a call: his day phone is 714 554-6794. His evening & fax
numbers are listed in DeLorean World.
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 14:43:29 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Gas Guage
Wow! My Twin turbo get about 15 MPG!
ausmith@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> I assume 13mph should be 13mpg. This is really low, mine has twin
> turbos and I get 26 on average.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 14:50:23 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Hmmm.. Let's clear up something...
Also, keep in mind, Hoods may have been changed over the years due to
dammage.
My car, #6068 build Nov 81, has lines and no flap. If car #6298 has a
flat hood, and is in fact origional, then we can guess the change was
made some time in Nov 81!
Marc
tomcio wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I don't agree. I own a DeLorean vin 6298, it was made in November '81
> and it has a flat hood with no gas flap in it. You can't really tell
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 14:56:59 -0400
From: Richard Strecker <dmc1219@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Trip Odometer Reset
Help!
I'm in the midst of spring cleaning/rehab of the "D" & am
replacing the binacle. While I have it apart I would like
to get the trip odometer reset shaft repaired/replaced.
After all the effrot to get this out of the car, I'd like to
get it repaired before I put it back.
Is there any place to get a replacement part other than a
whole new speedo unit?
I bought the other pieces several years ago in anticipation
of this, I hoped that by now there would be a fix for this
common problem.
Richard
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 15:05:50 -0400
From: "Ronald Pohala" <rpohala@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Need an engine
Please email me your phone number and price thank you.
I may be able to use it.
Thanks Ron phone number 717 868 3911
rpohala@xxxxxxxxxxx
Where are you located???
At 12:03 PM 5/3/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Have engine 2,300 mi., no distributor, car had contaminated gas so most
>fuel injection parts will need to be replaced.
>DeLorean Services
>
MODERATOR'S NOTE: In the future please send messages of this type directly
to the mailing list member rather than to the mailing list as a whole.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 15:10:03 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
Ahh!! I was picturing a short line..
So, it is part #108637 that is being replaced.. (#11 on 4-1-1)
That does not look so hard... I guess it is the bleeding part that makes
it tough!
Bruce Benson wrote:
> You were looking at the right thing. It's really plastic, not rubber.
Joe LoRe' wrote:
>
> Marc, The clutch line in question is plastic, not rubber, the black line
> you see at the top of your trans is the line you're replacing.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 15:11:31 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Drop the engine for a exhaust leak?! Or is there another problem?
VickRich wrote:
>
> Dave,
> We just had our DeLorean in the shop, they replaced a gasket, put
it
> all
> back together and found more leaks. What they did cost $200., now
they want
> $1500 to finish the job because they have to drop the engine. What a
mess!
>
> Vickie
> VIN#10150
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 13:48:51 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: DeLorean Feature Film
At 10:53 PM 5/2/98 -0700, you wrote:
>As some of you may know, I've been trying to option John DeLorean's
>autobiography in the attempts to produce a feature film on the man.
Well,
>the other day I got a nice letter from him and he informed me that
another
>production company recently optioned his book (meaning they paid a
portion
>of the full amount for the book and will either have to pay the rest of
it
>after a year or return the rights and John keeps the option money).
That's
>good news and bad news. Bad news, is that I won't be able to start
work on
>the film until after their option is up and only if they return the
option.
> The good news is that the chances of a DeLorean feature film being
>produced in the next few years is very high! If this production
company
>doesn't follow through with their attempts (which they should since
they
>paid quite a bit for the option), then I most definitely will. John
said
>he'll call me when their option is up if they return it.
>
>-Daniel McGauley
>
Reply:
Hi Dan,
There is another approach you know!........If you would like to
discuss
that option call me any time (intended to be taken literally) @
1-510-649-9118. (radiance Software Int.
Lee Seiler
81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 13:58:58 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment
At 10:25 AM 5/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>> My car had been lowered by the previous owner by the "cut and swap"
>> method. I noticed a few years ago that the rear wheels seemed to sit at
>> a small angle.
>>
>> I am not sure of the technical term (positive/negitive camber, or
>> whatever..) but the wheel is at a angle such that the top of the
>> opposite tires are further from each other than the bottoms.
>>
>> One side looks a bit more angled than the other.
>> There are 2 shims on both trailing arms. (if that matters)
>>
>> The really strange thing is, when I put the tires back on, and lowered
>> the car, it did not look so bad any more, in fact it was hard to see any
>> angle at all.
>>
>> I bounced the car a few times, and even took it for a quick 5 mile
>> drive.. It still looked ok.
>>
>> So, What's going on? Any ideas?
>>
>> Marc
>
>The only adjustment at the rear is done by installing or removing the shims
>you mentioned to adjust rear toe-in. Some cars can have more shims on one
>side than the other. When the car is lowered beyond a certain point the
>physics of the length of the upper and lower control arms come into play
>and the wheels show a bit of negative camber. In other words, the bottom of
>the wheels are outboard more than the tops. My car is lowered quite low and
>I have a slight bit of negative camber. I've mentioned before that I think
>this helps handling with the rear engine, rear weight bias that this car
>has. I've noticed no uneven wear to date. Don Steger, at the DeLorean Motor
>Center in Garden Grove, Calif. sells reworked lower control arms that have
>an adjustable, threaded center much like a turnbuckel. These allow rear
>camber adjustment to whatever degree works best for you.
>
>Bruce Benson
>
reply:
Hello Bruce:
I just lowered the front end but not the back just to improve road
handling and avoid the very problems you describe. The toe on my D is -0-
in the rear now just as it was before lowering the front. The independent
rear suspension Lotis designed is one of the best, I would be hesitant to
start making changes unless I was real comfortable with the suspension from
a design point of view.
Lee Seiler
81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 14:15:35 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
At 10:26 AM 5/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>> I looked in the Parts Manual, and see that this is how it is shown in
>> the manual (Section 4, Subsection 4, Group 1). So, where is this
rubber
>> line that is replaced with the steel braid?!
>>
>> Marc
>
>You were looking at the right thing. It's really plastic, not rubber.
When
>it gets soft from warm temperatures some of the hydralic energy is
wasted
>expanding the plastic rather than pushing the piston in the slave
>cylinder to its full stoke. Most new cars and trucks use hyrdralic
systems
>on their clutchs and they successfully use plastic lines but that's
because
>they're short lines
>with their front mounted engines. The problem with the DeLorean is the
>length of the
>plastic line and the fact that there are coolant lines, full of hot
>coolant, running alongside the clutch line.
>
>Bruce Benson
>
>
reply:
Hi Bruce!
Every one knows I spent a week trying to bleed my "NEW STEEL
BRAIDED"
clutch line. Apart from the little "won't start problem "I hit on a
recent
trip. I must comment that I noted a 100% improvement in the shifting in
my
D. The hardiest part of the replacement was realigning the engine cvr!
Now
that I have installed the new line, I can't imagine any one with the old
plastic line that has run into clutch through problems, not doing the
up-grade.
I was more than a bit skeptical at first, so much so that I
installed the
new line, and left the old one in place, just disconnected at both ends
with the plastic fitting nipples installed to keep the line clean. I was
ready to cut this old line out but then realized that I Could leave it
in
place as a back up should the new line ever fail.
I have to learn to listen (read) better the my fellow DML
members.
Lee Seiler
81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 21:34:24 EDT
From: Kayo Ong <KayoOng@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Vickie,
Get your car to another qualified Delorean service station or person.
Sounds
like a Mickey mouse mechanic or station. Maybe inexperience? They should
correct the job they where hired to do. If this "new" problem is not
related
to the last job, then you have no choice but to paid for "new" additional
work
to be done.
If they want more money and time to do the job that he or they should have
done the first time? It is wrong! Now, do you think they will get it right
if you return to them - AGAIN? What's next after that? Good and
experienced
people can tell you what is immediately wrong and what is questionable.
They
will tell you before or during the repair or service of the car, not
afterwards. You are giving the options right there and then. There are
times
when they do "discover" something wrong upon opening an area or unit not
seen
until removed or opened up. No surprises.
If you have lost trust in them, take it to another service station. Let
them
do the proper work and check the previous work. If the previous work is not
properly performed, get the new person or service station to "correct" it
and
then take legal proceedings against him or the company. It is not the money
at times, but the headache, time and possibly the danger and safety involved
in the vehicle's operation.
Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic 9D
P.S. Please let us know who it is or who they are, so we can avoid them
also.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 21:50:16 EDT
From: Kayo Ong <KayoOng@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
Marc,
It is Kayo again. The line runs along the middle of the chassis right under
the passenger's side of the member. It is at least 4 to 5 feet long.
Change
it, then bleed it at slave cylinder. I had P.J. Grady do it. Had mine done
last year in the fall, along with the clutch extension and dead pedal
installed. Noticeable difference.
Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic 9D NY
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 21:46:40 +0000
From: ausmith@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Gas Guage
Hi,
> Wow! My Twin turbo get about 15 MPG!
>
>
> ausmith@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > I assume 13mph should be 13mpg. This is really low, mine has twin
> > turbos and I get 26 on average.
Good grief, maybe you better get a tune up!! On the other hand, maybe
you stick your foot in it more than I do. Nah, couldn't be that, get
a tune.
Chris
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 22:02:36 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
At 03:10 PM 5/3/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Ahh!! I was picturing a short line..
>
>So, it is part #108637 that is being replaced.. (#11 on 4-1-1)
>
>That does not look so hard... I guess it is the bleeding part that makes
>it tough!
>
>
>Bruce Benson wrote:
>> You were looking at the right thing. It's really plastic, not rubber.
>
>Joe LoRe' wrote:
>>
>> Marc, The clutch line in question is plastic, not rubber, the black line
>> you see at the top of your trans is the line you're replacing.
>
>
>reply:
Marc,
You are a very lucky sailor! I just finished that job and can tell
you
exactly how to bleed the line. You need a short (18") length of clear
flexible 1/4" tubing. A small 8mm box end wrench, and a clear plastic water
bottle.
You also need a warm body to pump the clutch peddle for you.
Disconnect the old line and catch the "Dot4" fluid.
Connect the new braided line.
Fill the Clutch master cylinder reservoir with "new Dot4" fluid only
Remove the engine cvr
push on end of the clear tubing over the bleed fitting place the
other
end in the plastic water bottle.
have the peddle person pump the clutch 3times and hold it down, now
open
the bleed fitting, it will bubble, close the fitting and have the
peddle
person repeat the process until the water bottle begins to fill with
fluid. Add more Dot4 to the reservoir. At some point you will see the
clutch arm start to move as the clutch peddle is depressed. Continue the
process until no air bubbles appear in the clear plastic tube you put
over
the bleed fitting.
When you see no more air bubbles in the clear plastic tube tighten up the
bleed fitting, remover the tube. replace the engine cvr, clean up! you are
finished!
Lee Seiler
81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 00:28:17 +0000
From: James Nichols <jhnichols@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Hmmm.. Let's clear up something...
I agree with Mark, the hood is not original.
My car, #6884 built in Nov '81 also has lines and no gas flap.
Jim
Marc A Levy wrote:
> Also, keep in mind, Hoods may have been changed over the years due to
> dammage.
> My car, #6068 build Nov 81, has lines and no flap. If car #6298 has a
> flat hood, and is in fact origional, then we can guess the change was
> made some time in Nov 81!
> Marc
> tomcio wrote:
> > Hi,
> > I don't agree. I own a DeLorean vin 6298, it was made in November '81
> > and it has a flat hood with no gas flap in it. You can't really tell
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 07:01:42 -0600 (MDT)
From: raddad@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Trip Odometer Reset
Check back lissues of DML where Marty Maier gave info an a replacement.
Or, contacMarty by email at WINGD2@xxxxxxxx
Dick Ryan
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 09:11:21 EDT
From: JSteuben <JSteuben@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Steel Braid Clutch Line.
Dead pedal? Could you tell us more about it? Thanks, Joe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 16:41:32 +0100
From: wzach.lehrer.htl.htl-braunau@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Defrost switch
lseiler wrote
> To All:
>
> One of the problems we all face is the replacement of components
> that are
> no longer available. One such item that is becoming harder to find is
> the
> Defrost switch that is located next to the window control switch.
[snip]
My defrost switch was defect too (2 years ago), but I did repair the
original one !
The construction of this switch is very nasty so I suppose that every
defect switch has the same problem :
all of the problem is that a little axle slips off its original
bearing and falls into the switch-housing and the switch gets
inoperable, but it is no big deal to bring this axle back to the
original position if you only dismantle the top of the switch (as far
as I remember).
If anyone is interested in having a closer description for this: drop
me a personal e-mail to wzach@xxxxxx, on big interest I will
dismantle my switch again and maybe make a technical description for
the dmcnews including drawings.
- -> keep on going !
DMC_2hot4u@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: 04 May 98 10:45:44 -0400
From: MCCOMBC@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: BRAIDED CLUTCH LINE
Lee,
Thanks for the detailed description of the clutch bleeding process.
It's
quite timely since I have purchased the new line and am working myself
up to=
installing it also. Can you also describe the actual routing of the
cable
itself? Did you have to lift the body to remove the old line and
position
the
braided line? Did you start from the front or back or doesn't it make a
difference. How and where is it fastened?
Thanks,
Cliff McComb
#11546
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #361
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