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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: To Rebuild to Part Out - That is the question.
From: "erikgeerdink <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: To Rebuild to Part Out - That is the question.
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: To Rebuild to Part Out - That is the question.
From: AJL521@xxxxxxx
4. Re: master cylinder service
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
5. Re: light covers
From: Jonas Pitchford <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Engine sources
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Heater Core Shutoff Valve
From: "content22207 <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. A/C Panel (and other electrical problems)
From: "content22207 <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Re: world of wheels Chicago
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
10. Bauerle - TAB Supports
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
11. D's and Bike racks
From: "supremeadmiralsenn <StadnickAd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <StadnickAd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: D's and Bike racks
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: D's and Bike racks
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Re: Steering Wheel
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Engine sources
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Bauerle - TAB Supports
From: "Toby Peterson <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 16:37:30 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: To Rebuild to Part Out - That is the question.
I always keep the tags and titles. Technicly we own about 4
deloreans with green titles. I've found that within the delorean
community there is always going to be someone that wants
the "carcas" of the Delorean. never throw away what you might
consider junk. I have a bunch of "junk" in boxes that I will
probably never use, but someday someone might need a part for
testing or for dimensions.
NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER let the final resting place for a delorean
be a junk yard. So many people search for years to find the junk
thats in your backyard.
Erik
04512
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxx> wrote:
>
> One thought that was not discussed regarding poor condition cars
was
> what happens to the titles of the parted out cars.
>
> Right now there are Deloreans that are being parted out because
of the
> value of the parts.
>
> If the Delorean does evolve into a very desirable classic car like
a
> camaro or mustang, titles from junked or "cut up" cars become
valuable.
>
> I have seen people resurrect Camaros and mustangs out of pieces
from a
> junk yard and use and old title to make the car legal.
>
> The Delorean has great potential in this area.
>
> First you buy a SS frame from Brian Pierce. Then you get left
over
> pieces of fiberglass bodies.
> and the other parts that DMC has and you can build a Delorean.
The
> important piece though will be the title.
>
> It won't take much for this to happen. Camaro and Mustang that
are
> totally restored can go for $20,000. There are people who find
that
> this is the price point at which putting a car together is
economically
> feasible.
>
> So what should you do if you are stripping a D. First, of all
sell as
> many parts as you. Then give away what you can't sell.
Finally, if
> you have to get rid of what is left DO NOT GIVE IT TO A JUNK YARD
AS A
> CAR. Keep the title and cut up the rest and dispose of it in
pieces.
>
> That title may be very valuable in the future.
>
> The more Deloreans that are on the road the more maintenance parts
that
> will be necessary and that will make reproducing parts more
feasible.
>
> Look what Shelby did with 75 left over titles from the 70's.
>
> BOB
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 16:46:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: To Rebuild to Part Out - That is the question.
As interesting as this sounds technically if you are "parting out" a
car then (at least here in New Jersey) you are supposed to surrender
the title back to the State DMV where they then retire it. It is (I
believe) a federal law that prevents you from moving a vin # and title
from one vehicle to another. This is to prevent having a stolen car
and "cleaning" it up with a different title. In practice you can
"rebuild" a car if keeping the origional frame, vin and title. It
becomes a question at what point is it still a car and has a legal
title? To actually sell a title (and a vin plate) without actually
getting a car sounds a little illegal. If a seller was to sell a title
I think the best thing to do is at least sell the fiberglass body and
dash to the same person. (These parts hold the vin tags).
I don't think it is very economical to consider this unless you have
at least 1 parts car. Ask Dave Stragand what he spent not counting his
time and you will quickly see the economics don't make sense unless
the car is valuable in it's own right like it was a movie car or it
was owned by a celebrity.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxx> wrote:
>
> One thought that was not discussed regarding poor condition cars was
> what happens to the titles of the parted out cars.
>
> Right now there are Deloreans that are being parted out because of
the
> value of the parts.
>
> If the Delorean does evolve into a very desirable classic car like a
> camaro or mustang, titles from junked or "cut up" cars become
valuable.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:54:34 EST
From: AJL521@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: To Rebuild to Part Out - That is the question.
In addition to saving the titles, I would also recommend saving the dash vin
plate, and the door jamb plate off any car you part out.
Hand building a new DeLorean would be a fun project, almost as much fun as
bringing a dead one back to life.
Andrew,
4194
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 12:22:01 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: master cylinder service
Group, What Hank is saying is right on. The only thing I would mention
further is that this is a rebuilt unit not new. New is available for a few
dollars more. I have had trouble in the past with rebuilt Master slave cyl
not holding up. This may not happen with Fernco and I am in no way derating
the product. I just want you to know it's rebuilt.
John Hervey
<< Go to Autozone and get Fernco part number M52329 - it's the same master
cylinder, only cheaper (that is, if you choose not to get one from the D
vendors). It will come with two little hoses and adapters for bench bleeding
the cylinder before installation. Do NOT skip this step. Good instructions
are included with the Fernco part. There is also a core-charge, so be sure
to return your old cylinder.
>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 11:39:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonas Pitchford <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: light covers
as far as I know the cars where never painted at the factory but some of the dealers had them painted after getting them from the factory
"mwwilber2003 <mwwilber2003@xxxxxxxxx>" <mwwilber2003@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:I have just bought a used Delorean and wanted to know if they make
blackout light covers for the front headlights of the car. I have
seen some in pictures but do not know how to get them can anyone
help?? Also I wanted to know if the factory painted any Deloreans
that came out in 1981, if so what colors came out?? I have heared
that some were painted but not confirmed this info. please let me
know Thanks.
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 12:39:57 -0800 (PST)
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Engine sources
What volvo models have engines whose block will fit the deLoreans?With the least modifications please.
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 21:18:53 -0000
From: "content22207 <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Heater Core Shutoff Valve
Apparently are several DOA shutoff valves out there. An inexpensive
replacement is any 5/8" valve made for domestic automobile (try 1978
Lincoln). $10 at Autozone.
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 21:48:25 -0000
From: "content22207 <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: A/C Panel (and other electrical problems)
Couple of electrical problems in the dash:
- A/C panel illuminated whenever car is on (vs tied to headlight
circuit). Generates untold heat wear.
- Headlight switch is unfused, yet contains a load device (internal
bulb). Nearly set my car on fire with that one...
- Full side & tail light amperage passes through headlight switch
(headlights are relay'd).
- Internal bulbs in headlight and hazard switches generate more heat
than switch can ultimately stand (if headlight switch melts and
grounds itself, no protection)
I rewired my whole headlight circuit as follows:
- A/C panel tied to dash switch (via relay below. Note I had to add an
inline 2.5 amp fuse).
- Switch now fused twice (inline 1 amp fuses) in & out, just to be safe.
- Side & tail lights moved to a new relay (just what our cars need --
another relay back there). Total amperage through switch now: 320
milliamps.
- INTERNAL BULBS THROWN AWAY (may substitute LED's some day...)
Food for thought from #5939.
Bill Robertson
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 16:51:23 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: world of wheels Chicago
Hello,
The PPG gullwing pace car is still in the museum. I saw it last year on
my way out to Mammoth Mtn.
later
Dave
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 13:59:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Bauerle - TAB Supports
To all,
As promised below is a link to images of Dave Bauerle's TAB Support.
Dave said that this is NOT primarily a "catch" all though it can act as one if
need be. It is mainly a support.
Also Dave commented on the side to side twisting motion that Toby mentioned
stating that the amount is minimal enough that the bushings in this setup can
allow for such movement.
He does have extras left and can make more for those who decide to go this route.
As mentioned before Dave does not have access to the DML or a computer so if you
have any comments, concerns, questions, disagreements etc. please contact him
directly. That info can be found at the link below.
http://205.133.7.130/public/Bauerle_Brackets.html
[ note: since text greatly lacks tone & can be interpreted multiple ways let me
state that the tone above & linked is in no way condemning Toby & his Tabs. I did
not know of any other option for this problem until recently and wanted to share
information while possibly helping both driver safety & vendor business. I
actually have a set of "Toby Tabs" and plan to use them in my car . . . . . some
day.]
Shannon Y
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 22:07:40 -0000
From: "supremeadmiralsenn <StadnickAd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <StadnickAd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: D's and Bike racks
I may or may not be able to convince my parents to allow me to get a
DeLorean within the next few years. I was wondering if there are any
bike racks that will fit on the back end of a DeLorean, as my bike is
currently my car and I think it would be pretty handy if something
ever happened to the car. Thanks in advance!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:11:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: D's and Bike racks
As one who bicycles several thousand miles per year,
I finally made a bike rack by adapting a roof top rack
to the DeLorean luggage rack. Looks fine and works
well
Dick Ryan
--- "supremeadmiralsenn <StadnickAd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>"
<StadnickAd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I may or may not be able to convince my parents to
> allow me to get a
> DeLorean within the next few years. I was wondering
> if there are any
> bike racks that will fit on the back end of a
> DeLorean, as my bike is
> currently my car and I think it would be pretty
> handy if something
> ever happened to the car. Thanks in advance!
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 16:45:36 -0700
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: D's and Bike racks
You could probably easily modify a roof rack to fit the optional DeLorean
luggage rack. That would be the easiest and safest bike rack hookup I could
think of.
Mark N
VIN 6820
At 10:07 PM 2/3/2003 -0000, you wrote:
>I may or may not be able to convince my parents to allow me to get a
>DeLorean within the next few years. I was wondering if there are any
>bike racks that will fit on the back end of a DeLorean, as my bike is
>currently my car and I think it would be pretty handy if something
>ever happened to the car. Thanks in advance!
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 14:51:27 -0800
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Steering Wheel
I recently removed my wheel the had not been removed since new. Needless to
say it too was rather stuck. I was however able to unstick it by impact
only. With the assistance of a helper I pulled outward on the wheel while
impacting the large nut (loosened a couple turns) with a cylindrical block
of wood and a medium sized mallet. The reason for pulling out on the wheel
was to make sure that any impact forces were not transferred down the shaft
where they might do damage. Smaller sharp impacts are better than large
blunt ones.
If you have an effective puller, I would suggest tightening it up and then
rocking the wheel by grabbing the rim. This rocking motion might get it to
break free while minimizing the load on the puller threads.
Don Ekhoff
----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, February 03, 2003 7:19 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Steering Wheel
> I only mentioned the nut because sometimes I have done dumb things so
> I try to pass on my experience so everyone can benefit from it. Even
> experienced mechanics do stupid things. Everyone needs to realize that
> ANYONE can make a mistake or overlook the obvious.
> Getting back to business, don't drill out and tap to M8. Use a thread
> insert and stay with either M6 or 1/4-20. (For these screws going into
> the metal of the wheel itself a course thread is stronger so don't tap
> to a fine thread.) The reason is if you were to strip out the M8 now
> what are you going to do? A thread insert is much stronger then the
> metal of the wheel and should be alright at M6. It is very important
> that the screws going into the wheel are long enough and are FULLY
> threaded into the wheel so they won't pull out. Again the "pulling"
> screw in the puller should be a fine thread to get the most power and
> control in removing the wheel. An excellant tip also is to mark the
> position of the wheel on the shaft so you can put it back on and it
> points straight ahead when you are done. Swipe some old red nail
> polish from your significant other, it works great, just a tiny dab on
> the wheel and the shaft. You might have to answer some odd questions
> if someone sees it in your toolbox though!!!! There is no torque spec
> for the steering wheel nut so get it tight but not overly tight, the
> wheel is a taper fit so it doesn't really need to be "gorrilla'd" on
> tight. Heat isn't going to help you here, you can't get it hot enough
> to make a difference without damaging everything nearby. Penetrating
> lubricant won't help either because of the taper fit. If you can't
> loosen it up the next step is to drill holes in a circular pattern
> around the shaft and then beat the wheel off destroying the steering
> wheel so get it off with the puller.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > What ? I have to loosen the big nut first ?
> > Damn that's why it didn't move at all...
> >
> > No, really, the thread of the M6 wasn't strong enough and I pulled
> the whole
> > thread out !
> > I will try to use M8 bolts and heat it up with a heat gun the next
> time.
> > Last time I also used a lead hammer which I normally use to open the
> large
> > nuts of
> > my other cars spoke wheels.
> >
> > Thanks for the many replies
> >
> > Elvis
> >
> > P.S: Hey Mike, how's weather down there under your car ?
> >
> >
> > Elvis,
> > Since you have the M6 screws, use them in conjunction with a
> > steering wheel puller and you will be fine. I used 1/4 inch screws
> and
> > re-threaded them. My advice is to have them be at least 5 inches
> (12.5 cm)
> > long, otherwise the puller will not get close enough to lock in to
> the
> > wheel.
> >
> > Good luck,
> > Matthew
> > VIN #'s 10365 and 16816
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 23:31:48 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine sources
Volvo 260 with the B28F engine, but you have to swap the sandwich plate over and all the belts and pulleys
are Renault configuration, compressor is in a different place though. Renault30 will drop right in (after
you've moved the AC compressor) but will only be 2.7 litres
Martin
#1458
#4426
DOC UK
john fredt wrote:
>
> What volvo models have engines whose block will fit the deLoreans?With the least modifications please.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 2003 02:20:40 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bauerle - TAB Supports
Shannon - Thank you very much for the information on the "Bauerle
Brackets", or whatever Dave prefers to call them. I was having a
difficult time envisioning the configuration. As they say, "A picture
is worth a thousand expert opinions". I am going to run some rough
numbers on this installation, using estimated dimensions, etc. so it
won't be perfect. My goal will be to determine approximately how much
load sharing is done between the bracket and the OEM rubber bushing,
which is bolted to the web of the frame. I would be interested in any
calculations that might have been used in the design of this. Without
suggesting an outcome to my review, I can tell you that loads will
always follow the stiffest path available. In other words, whenever a
structure has any flexibility to it, it will tend to avoid picking up
load. If there is a "choice" given to loads, they will always follow
the stiff path, and "ignore" the softer path. Since we don't know the
exact load values in this joint, I will use what we call "unit values"
in order to compare the percentage of loads that flow down each path -
through the stock bushing, and the bracket. Ideally, the load share
would be split 50%/50%, to create a true double shear joint. Sorry -
I had better just stop here and go take some measurements. I will let
you know what I find. I am very interested in what the numbers will
show.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean@xxxx> wrote:
> As promised below is a link to images of Dave Bauerle's TAB Support.
> Dave said that this is NOT primarily a "catch" all though it can act
> as one if need be. It is mainly a support.
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