[DML] Digest Number 1111
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[DML] Digest Number 1111



Title: [DML] Digest Number 1111

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re:Re: Braided fuel lines*PICS*
           From: klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
      2. Re: Re: Braided fuel lines*PICS*
           From: klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
      3. Re: Re: Braided fuel lines*PICS*
           From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      4. Re: fuel lines are formed steel
           From: klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
      5. Re: Remote-buying DeLoreans
           From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      6. eBay "buy low & sell high" doesn't apply with DeLorean
           From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
      7. RE: Re: melted wires
           From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
      8. Re: Powered Seats ?
           From: "basfe25" <drrub46@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. Re: melted wires
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     10. Re: Starting problems
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     11. Re: verifying a/c charge amount
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     12. Re: Fuel pickup line
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     13. Re: Passenger Door
           From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
     14. DMC-12 fusebox
           From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
     15. speeding tickets? was Re: bad jokes we get... :)
           From: "_designer_" <_designer_@xxxxxxxxx>
     16. Re: verifying a/c charge amount
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     17. Delorean Registry
           From: "thinkstainless" <thinkstainless@xxxxxxx>
     18. Re: Delorean Registry
           From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     19. The DeLorean Owners Directory- Was: Delorean Registry
           From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
     20. Formed steel fuel lines
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     21. Math
           From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
     22. Re: Passenger Door
           From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     23. Re: DMC-12 fusebox
           From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan@xxxxxxxxx>
     24. Re: Math
           From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     25. Re: Math
           From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 13:31:08 +0200 (CEST)
   From: klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re:Re: Braided fuel lines*PICS*

Christian,

all my coolant hoses are silicone hoses from SamcoSport. You can cut
all hoses from standard parts (1 meter hose, 32mm diameter and 1 ellbow
45 degrees, 32 mm diameter), see www.samcosport.com

The hoses right and left from the waterpump are custom made by samco, I
will have new ones (2 siliconehoses $100) available in 4 weeks,
see http://www.steinerklaus.de/dmc/hoses/


Klaus
#05980
Germany


 
> Message: 13
>    Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 15:30:33 -0700 (PDT)
>    From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject:
>
> My dear lord... I see you even have the overheat
> protector done up with
> the braided lines. Very nice. Do you have braided coolent
> hoses all the
> way up to the radiator? Where did you get them?
>
> -Christian



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Message: 2
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 13:41:07 +0200 (CEST)
   From: klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Braided fuel lines*PICS*

Walt,

Goodridge does't have the fittings for this line (the 13th), so i did
it myself with standard ss-rubber-line (like my
overheat-protector-line), fittings and hose-clips. If you want a pic,
please email me privatly.

The price I mentioned was for all 12 fuel-lines with blue fittings as
you can see on the pics. All other lines and fittings are extra.

Klaus
#05980
Germany

 
> Message: 14
>    Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 19:05:37 -0400
>    From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Braided fuel lines*PICS*
>
> Klaus,
>
> That really looks impressive.  One important question:
> Were you able to find
> a good replacement for the hose that is made onto the
> frequency valve?
>
> Did the price you mention include all the SS coverings &
> blue collars?
>
> I think it would look really nice to polish & blue
> anodize certain parts of
> the engine.  That would look cool.... I mean MORE cool.
>
> Walt



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Message: 3
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 12:50:29 +0100
   From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Braided fuel lines*PICS*

We ordered a replacement hose for #2727 from Renault. It took 6 weeks
and by then we'd made a replacement anyway, but the one that came was a
formed steel one as you describe. Perhaps you have a set of Renault pipes?

Martin
#1458

content22207 wrote:

>My fuel lines are formed steel (like brake lines). Is this a retrofit
>by previous owner or did some leave factory as such?
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>





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Message: 4
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 13:51:35 +0200 (CEST)
   From: klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fuel lines are formed steel

Bill,

all DMC PRV engines leave the factory with rubber fuel lines.

The lines you have are Renault/Peugeot parts. Renault R25 and R30 and
some Peugeot PRV were fitted with this lines. Do you have hollow srews
(for banjo fittings) on your injectors? As I know the formed steel
lines came with tube fittings like brake lines.

Klaus
#05980
Germany


> Message: 22
>    Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 05:23:06 -0000
>    From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Braided fuel lines*PICS*
>
> My fuel lines are formed steel (like brake lines). Is
> this a retrofit by previous owner or did some leave factory as such?
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939



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Message: 5
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 13:03:08 -0000
   From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Remote-buying DeLoreans

List,

Dave Swingle mentioned several ways in which to protect yourself when
remote purchasing a Delorean (from ebay or any other for sale ad) and
these ways are a good start for a possible remote purchased vehicle.
In several cases, mostly including project cars, I have requested a
video tape "walk around" of the car(s) and associated parts included
with many project cars, also requesting certain angles and views.
In the case of "running" cars, I have requested a stationary shot of
cold start, drive arounds (listening for tell tale bad behavior) and
a stationary shot of a warm/hot start afterward.  I have even shown
some of these tapes at our social events, to show others potential
projects that I am looking at and to see the types of things I look
for in my decision processes.  A local club is always a good source.

I am by no means an "expert" when it comes to remote buying Deloreans
but I do have a comprehensive process that has served me well, with
very few surprises (so far, knock on wood).  Since I still actively
search ebay for potential new projects, I will not post all of my
tactics, but if you need help acquiring information about a potential
remote purchase, feel free to contact me for additional tactics.

However, one of the best ways a novice or experienced Delorean owner
can get a sense of confidence in a remote purchase of a Delorean, when
you cannot go there yourself, is to contact a Delorean owner that is
close to the seller, via your local club, the DML, etc., to go and
inspect the vehicle for you.  Have them take a list of questions and
a copy of the DMCH checklist (that they can send of fax to you later),
and maybe they can bring a disposable camera or video recorder, if
they have the time.  Most Delorean owners do not mind going to look
at another Delorean if they have the time to do so.  The Delorean
community is rather small, but is extremely helpful in most cases.

I know Dave Swingle has done the inspection process, as well as drive
new owners to pickup there cars and follow them with there first drive
in "their" Delorean.  There is nothing more comfortable than having
a knowledgeable Delorean person follow you (with tools / spare parts)
when you take your newly acquired Delorean on its first voyage home.
An uneventful trip is sometimes the best kind of trip.

Keep the Dream Alive.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxx> wrote:
> One thing to keep in mind with all this talk about "fake" photos
> being used in Ebay ads - Rich Weissensel in my area has probably
> bought more sight-unseen cars than anyone I know. He may care to
> elaborate, but I notice that one of his tactics as a purchaser is to
> ask the seller to provide many photos shot from specific angles and
> distances. On a given car he may do this several times over a couple
> of days. Legitimate sellers will not mind the intrusion. This serves
> a couple of purposes.

>snip<




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Message: 6
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 09:05:02 EDT
   From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: eBay "buy low & sell high" doesn't apply with DeLorean



    You guys are in for a laugh on this. A friend (and client) was told many
times over not to buy an inexpensive Ferrari, and stay away from the cars on
ebay. Most of the cars have been butchered, tracked hard on road rallies &
courses, worn out, owner lost complete interest, broken, and many times
wrecked pieces of shit.

    Anyway, the car he purchased was a real bargain. (Like buying a Patek
Philippe at a pawn shop) The car was a complete misrepresentation and the
owner has a broken heart. The car was shipped to Ferrari of Washington, DC,
and the specialists went to work...then it all stopped.

    The car was a well disguised Pontiac Fiero kit car project sold as a
genuine Ferrari.

    The old adage of "buy low & sell high" doesn't work with the DeLorean.
The car must have a genuine service history. If an owner wanted to sell, ask
your self why do they want to sell?

  Don't buy a $10.00 horse and expect to win the Derby.

With Best Regards,
Michael



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Message: 7
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 08:30:51 -0500
   From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: melted wires

Are you suggesting that you fuse each individual ground wire or the
"composite" ground wire.
If you fuse the "composite" ground wire, don't you risk shutting the whole
car down when this fuse melts?
Isn't there a fusible link on the car?

Scott Mueller
002981

-----Original Message-----
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx [mailto:dherv10@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 12:05 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: melted wires


Shain, That's a good idea, but it all circles back to one ground wire. No
matter how you get there, it's one ground back. If you really want to help
the situation, then fuse the ground wire. That way if you have a short that
one fuse in the box doesn't catch it,  the ground fuse might.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/

<< What i did was replace the wires (socket clips are availbe at
 auto parts store), but i ran the wire to the screw holes on the
 metal plate that holds all the electrics.  I used eye hold type
 conenctors and ss screws to make it look good.  You then run the
 inital ground wire there as well.  The idea is each relay has it's
 own grounding point.  Haven't had a problem yet, and grady says it's
 a good idea.
  >>




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Message: 8
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 13:45:25 -0000
   From: "basfe25" <drrub46@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Powered Seats ?

DanRC30 had replaced his seats with seats from a Porche Boxter. I
don't know if he has the power portion of it working. The seats fit
in the Delorean nicely except they are *slightly* to tall and cause
you to bump your head on the roof of the Delorean. He may have fixed
that problem by now, hopefully he'll post about it.

Steve

--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail@xxxx> wrote:
> Anyone ever pulled the factory seats and replaced them with
> some form of multi-way powered seat? I don't recall ever seeing
> such is any classifieds nor could I find something in the
> archives?
>
> What would be involved:
> * Power would need to be routed of course.
> * Factory fuse box acceptable?
> * Factory alternater acceptable?
> * how difficult would it be to pull current seat rails and replace?
>
> What else?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeremy




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Message: 9
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 14:45:36 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: melted wires

On the surface your suggestion of fusing the ground makes some sense
until you consider what happens after the fuse blows. Because the
ground is "daisy chained", ie, the grounds are point to point with one
finally ending up at true ground, by fusing it and having it blow will
create a backfeed through the other circuits. Also consider that the
size of the grounding fuse must be capable of ALL loads daisy chained
into it so it carries more than just 1 circuit's return current. If
you have a ground wire melting you have bigger problems than what can
be "fixed" with a fuse. A better solution would be to ground both ends
of the daisy chain. The fuse that supplies each circuit is meant to
also protect the return portion of the circuit also. Make sure EVERY
fuse is the correct size for it's position. Even though the wiring
of each individual circuit may be capable of carrying more current
than the fuse is sized for you can see from this scenario that the
grounds must carry the cumulative total of all the circuits so any
oversized fuses will allow excess current into the ground.
 Having backfeeds into other circuits can cause you to pull your hair
out trying to figure out what is going on. This can be one of the
hardest things to diagnose and repair so setting things up to fail in
this mode is not a good idea.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> Shain, That's a good idea, but it all circles back to one ground
wire. No
> matter how you get there, it's one ground back. If you really want
to help
> the situation, then fuse the ground wire. That way if you have a
short that
> one fuse in the box doesn't catch it,  the ground fuse might.
> John Hervey
> http://www.specialtauto.com/
>
>




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Message: 10
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 14:49:38 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Starting problems

The first thing I would look for is spark. Check to see that you are
getting spark from the ignition system. If you do not have spark check
the connections on the ballast resistors and possibly the pick-up coil
in the distributer. I am assuming you did not run out of fuel?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, BondAtomic@xxxx wrote:
> The DMC had its first starting problems in 2 years today. I drove
around for
> a while, and parked; shutting it off for a little while. When I came
back, I
> turned the key, and it turned over, and when it was running, I let
go of the
> key, and it sputtered and died. The DMC would not start after this.
The
> starter would go, but the engine wouldn't start. After a while,
though, it
> did fire. This also happened later that day, after I had it off for
around an
> hour.
> Thanks for any ideas.
>
> John
> 4275
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 14:51:42 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: verifying a/c charge amount

Buy a gauge. Most parts houses only sell gauges with 134 threads (use
a charging hose) or the quick connect now, but you can easily adapt to
a R12 system by screwing on a retrofit adapter. Don't forget to
unscrew the adapter afterwards or someone may accidentally mix freons.

IMHO R134 has gotten a bum rap. Its perceived ills are probably due to
age of the vehicles being retrofitted. A 20 - 30 year system may give
problems no matter what kind of freon is used.

Drove a 23 year old retrofitted Lincoln to VA to get my new DeLorean
(which is *STILL* up there BTW). Heater core was bypassed due to leak.
Without its moderating influence, temperature from vents was 27
degrees (freon evaporates @ 22 degrees). My evaporator kept icing up
like an old freezer. Had to defrost with outside air every 15 minutes.
Glove box was full of condensed water when I got there. Don't tell me
134 doesn't get cold enough.

BTW: My offer to share Bill's DIY A/C conversion still stands. Why
people mess around with supposed A/C guru's when everything you need
is under your own hood (trunk?) is beyond me.

Bill Robertson
Stuck driving a Lincoln until his D comes home
#5939


>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Is there a way to determine if a system has the optimum amount of
> refrigerant in it without evacuating the system and recharging with a
> measured amount?




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Message: 12
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 15:02:23 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel pickup line

IMHO one of the reasons for the "S" in the pick-up hose and it's
extended length is to keep the noise and vibration caused by the pump
from getting transmitted into the fuel tank. The bottom of the tank
would become a sounding board amplifying the noise especially at low
levels of fuel.
 The origional configuration is very reliable as long as the parts
aren't deteriorated and are correctly installed. It is too easy to
kink the hose as you install the pump. Too often I have seen this area
of the car "botched up" by previous mechanics who didn't know what
they were doing and or didn't get the right parts. This being a
"hidden" area most owners don't know what is going on in there.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "johnsdmc12" <dherv10@xxxx> wrote:
> Group, I have been working and thinking about a new fuel pick up
line
> for some time now. After looking at all the possibilities and
> weighing all the problems.  What I have put on the web site is it.
> No more pick up line. Instead of the long hose route and collapsing
> hose problems due to heat and pressure,plus the expense of the long
> hose,  I have fabricated another baffel box and come straight off
the
> pump with my filter screen. By only using 1 1/2" of the expensive
> tubing that will withstand the gas and all the chemicals, it's now
> ready. It will take less than an hour to put it in. It will come
with
> instructions and I will be posting more pictures on the web site.
> I hope this will solve a lot of fuel tank pick up problems for a lot
> of you.. It's on the front page of the web site.
> It's in my car and working .
> John hervey
> www.specialTauto.com




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Message: 13
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 11:29:16 -0400
   From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Passenger Door

> It seems that sometimes the passenger side door does not want to open the
> front latch.

If you search the archives you will find a post I did titled "unsticking a
stuck door".  To try and be brief with the explanation (something I don't
have a reputation for)....

Each latch has two rods going to it.  One rod releases the latch.  The other
rod locks/unlocks the latch.  If the cable length adjustment for the
exterior door handle leaves any tension on the release rod while the latch
is locked, then it will not unlock.  It is typical for this to happen on the
front latch.

There are two cures:
1) The easy & less elegant way... remove the lock/unlock rod from the front
latch.  Now the front latch can never lock, but the rear latch will still
stop the door from opening when locked.  This is DMC Joe's favorite cure.

2) The hard way...  Adjust the exterior door handle in such a manner that
the cable is slack enough to not leave too much tension on the front release
rod (tension on this rod will stop the latch from unlocking) while at the
same time having the same cable tight enough so that it will still open the
door before the exterior handle is lifted as far as it will go.  On some
cars it is seemingly impossible to find this happy medium and still have it
work 100% of the time which is why cure #1 is so popular.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 14
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 12:08:48 -0500
   From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC-12 fusebox

Hi, List:
With all the talk of fuses of late, I was curious if anybody has installed the fusebox that is at Special-T-Auto. It looks, like most parts that are worth it, expensive yet good. Wondered if there is anybody using it out there. E-mail me off the

list if you like.

Off to go sell air conditioning and rad-suits to Nevadans ....
Farrar Hudkins
New Orleans, LA
--
www.wwno.org
504-280-7000





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Message: 15
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 17:39:27 -0000
   From: "_designer_" <_designer_@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: speeding tickets? was Re: bad jokes we get... :)

I think it has more to do with the person behind the wheel.  Every
time I've been pulled over, the officer usually walks up to me and
says, "Sign here."  How do you talk your way out of that?

Anyway, it is interesting that you bring this topic up, because
recently in Arizona I got a criminal speeding ticket.  Is anyone
familiar with AZ?  How strict/corrupt are the courts?



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dmcjohn" <john.dore@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi again guys,
> Something I've been wondering about - when you get pulled over for
> speeding, do you generally get a ticket, or is the cop more
> interested in talking about/checking out the DeLorean, and then
> leaves you off with a warning?




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Message: 16
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 18:59:17 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: verifying a/c charge amount

There are 4 ways I know of to properly fill an A/C system using the
types of expansion valves used on cars. In order of precision they are
1) Filling by weight, only good on premanufactured systems like cars
and refigeraters and only after the system has been evacuated.
2) Using a sonic device to detect supercooled droplets in the suction
line.
3) Filling to the sight glass (If a sight glass is even on the
system).
4) The least precise and most widely used method, filling till the
compressor runs or at least to a suction pressure corresponding to
about 34 degrees F for the refrigerent being used. This can result in
overcharging depending on ambient conditions at the time of fill. This
also ASSUMES no air or blended refrigerents in the system. To properly
test the system you need the operating tables to know what the temps
are supposed to be across the evap coil and the cond coil depending on
the ambient temp. A general rule of thumb is a 20 degree drop over the
evap coil means the system is working as long as the compressor isn't
cycling too much.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Is there a way to determine if a system has the optimum amount of
> refrigerant in it without evacuating the system and recharging with
a
> measured amount?  There should be a way to top off a system without
> draining/refilling.  Yes, I understand that a system should not be
topped
> off if it is leaking, yadda, yadda.
>
> Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 17
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 21:56:07 -0000
   From: "thinkstainless" <thinkstainless@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Registry

Has anyone ever considered putting together an archive online that
keeps track of who owns or owned a Delorean tracked by their vin
number? Like a registry, you just sign up, put in your vin number
and information, pictures of your car, and when your car is sold you
just pass your information to that person so he can register online.
Mabye then we can see how many deloreans are actually out there.

Just a thought,

Mike




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Message: 18
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 16:25:12 -0600
   From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Registry

http://www.dmcnews.com/directory.html


At 09:56 PM 7/12/02 -0000, you wrote:
>Has anyone ever considered putting together an archive online that
<snip>
>Mike




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Message: 19
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 15:34:04 -0700
   From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: The DeLorean Owners Directory- Was: Delorean Registry

   Speaking of a DeLorean Registry, It's time for me to put out a new
revision of the DeLorean Owners Directory. I just got caught up from all the
submissions we've recieved and I'm making a last call for entries and
updates for the next issue. Get yourself in now or you'll have to wait till
next year. We're up to 947 owners and their cars. There's got to be enough
of you out there who have not added your car(s) to the Directory to take us
over the 1000 mark! I'm also playing around with format changes if anyone
has any ideas.

If you've ever filled out the form on the DMCnews website, I've got you
listed and you don't have to re-submit or anything to be in the next issue.
If you've moved or changed email addresses I'll need to know that.

The location of the submission form is:
http://www.dmcnews.com/directory.html

I'll cut things off in about a week and a half.

Ken
=======================================================
Ken Montgomery
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com  mailto:directory@xxxxxxxxxxx
=======================================================
 




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Message: 20
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 22:48:17 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Formed steel fuel lines

Can't answer questions Re: what my fuel lines look like because car is
400 miles away. Apologies.

Car has been re-engined (I was promised a carbureted block, but that's
another story). According to Rob @ PJ Grady, my re-engine was a
complete unit ready to drop in & run -- fuel distrubutor & steel lines
came installed. He claims was imported from England (NOS?). All I know
is it is tight, dry, starts excellent cold, and drives like a lower
grade rocket (I thought DeLoreans were supposed to be slower than they
looked).

BTW: Rob identified two radio in-line fuses accessible without
removing console. I'll investigate ASAP.

BBTW: My mechanic buddy has had a change of heart. Passenger side
exhaust manifold gasket replacement now is on again (see message
#26695). Wish us luck (can you spell "rusty studs"?).

Bill Robertson
DeLorean-less in NC
#5939





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Message: 21
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 22:48:39 -0000
   From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Math

It has been previously discussed that the DOA's production figure of
8,583 is most likely innaccurate, & that nobody really knows how the
DOA arrived at this figure.  The 1981 production figure would seem
to be fairly straightforward.  We all know that the first DeLorean
produced was #500.  The last 1981 model was #7199.  This is in the
parts manual, various service bulleteins, as well as the DMC
Production Chronology, found at
http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/n_chron.htm
Assuming no vin skips, the production figure for 1981 models should
be 6,700 even.  Yes, I know 7,199-500+6,699.  7,199 vins minus the
first 499 vins (remember to count #500) equals 6,700 1981 models.

Ok, now on to the more complicated stuff.  The first 1982 model was
#10001.  The highest vin for a 1982 model that I have come across is
#11786.  The highest one listed in the Chronology is #11784.  I got
#11786 from post #4575.  Then there are the 12000 series vins (RHD
conversions & others) 12171, 12173-12177, 12179-12181, 12199, 12345,
12451 (found in message #15435 & the chronology)  There could be a
#12172 & #12178, but they aren't listed anywhere.  So the production
figure for 1982 models is at least 1,798.  (1,786 consecutive vins
plus 12 12000 series cars, possibly 14, if #12172 & #12178 are
included, which would push the figure to 1,800 even)

About the vin skips:  I personally do not believe that any vins were
skipped other than between serieses, & in the 12000 series cars,
except for maybe in the 15000 series.  This comes from looking at the
Chronology and seeing only 13 vins reported out of 1,000, as opposed
to 78 for the 16000 series.  But, looking at the 15000 series vins,
the reported #'s are fairly evenly spaced & go up to 15990.  So maybe
there was just an absence of vins reported.  The skips are mentioned
again later.

Now for the 1983 models.  http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/h_83s.htm
As we all know, there were 4 different serieses of 1983 models.
According to the above link, the 15000 series cars were built by DMCL,
the 16000 series cars were handled by Consolidated International
(now KAPAC), the 17000 series cars were built for the Canadian market,
& the 20000 series cars were assembled by the plant managers before
the final closure of the factory.  Assuming no skips in vins, here
comes the production figure for 1983 models.
  1,000 15000 series cars
+1,000  16000 series cars
+168    17000 series cars
+1              #19874 (in the Chronology)
+105    20000 series cars
=2,274  1983 models

Anyway, what brought about this post was something that I read in
Stainless Steel Illusion.

On page 137, John Lamm writes:
"Initially, Consolidated bought 1,174 De Loreans for $12,500 each,
and 200 more De Loreans a few weeks later."
On page 145:
"Remember that Consolidated had taken control of 1,391 De Loreans in
April and May for a payment of some $17.4 million as a means to give
DMC some financial breathing room.  DMC still owed Consolidated almost
$9 million.  Now Consolidated was allowed to take control of the
remaining 649 cars DMC had in the U.S., plus the inventory of parts
and a good share of the company's future."
Later on page 145 :
"The Ohio company purchased the De Loreans that were overseas,
including 1,041 that had been completed and 53 that were in the
process of being built.  Most of these cars were 1982 models, though
there were some that had been converted to 1983's, plus 100 cars built
to meet Canada's automotive regulations."
Also on 145, the caption of a picture of Sol Shenk, the president of
Consolidated, with a DeLorean:
"Sol Shenk.  In total he bought 2,487 De Loreans."

Now no matter how hard I try, I cannot get the above numbers to add
up to 2,487.  When I add 1,391+649+1,041+53, I get 3,134.  Does anyone
know where 2,487 came from?  Maybe this number comes from the same
dimension as 8,583?  What cars did Sol Shenk buy/take control of?
All of the 1983's?  All 1983's & some 1982's?  All of the 1982's and
1983's?

The total production figures of the DeLorean, as I see it, could be
anywhere from 9,187 (6,700+2,487) to over 11,634.  (6,700+1,800+3,134)

So, did anyone get this far before falling asleep?  Have any comments
on this huge monstrosity of a post?

John Yeoman





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Message: 22
   Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 00:09:06 +0100
   From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Passenger Door

Walt, apparently the early cars have a shorter cable for the exterior release handle
preventing the spring on the latch release from pulling back far enough and allowing the
locks to function correctly. I am having a similar battle with my passenger door. It
works at the moment but it's very tight.

Martin
#1458

Walter Coe wrote:

> 2) The hard way...  Adjust the exterior door handle in such a manner that
> the cable is slack enough to not leave too much tension on the front release
> rod (tension on this rod will stop the latch from unlocking)

<snip>




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Message: 23
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 16:26:00 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC-12 fusebox

I ordered the fuse box from John at Special-T-Auto,
but haven't had the time to install her yet.  I'll let
you guys know how it works out.

-Sean Mulligan
 vin #10054 ;)

--- Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hi, List:
> With all the talk of fuses of late, I was curious if
> anybody has installed the fusebox that is at
> Special-T-Auto. It looks, like most parts that are
> worth it, expensive yet good. Wondered if there is
> anybody using it out there. E-mail me off the
> list if you like.
>
> Off to go sell air conditioning and rad-suits to
> Nevadans ....
> Farrar Hudkins
> New Orleans, LA
> --
> www.wwno.org
> 504-280-7000
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>


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Message: 24
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 20:07:41 -0500
   From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Math

I belive DMC used Aurther Anderson as their accountants. That explains lot's
of fuzzy math.

Bruce Benson


> Now no matter how hard I try, I cannot get the above numbers to add
> up to 2,487.  When I add 1,391+649+1,041+53, I get 3,134.  Does >anyone
> know where 2,487 came from?  >
> So, did anyone get this far before falling asleep?  Have any comments
> on this huge monstrosity of a post?
>
> John Yeoman





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Message: 25
   Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 21:31:57 -0400
   From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Math

There are a few places in this world where numbers dance, The auto industry,
state and federal governments, Worldcom, resturant checks, etc.  All joking
aside, I would like to think that inspections were done the final product
and it may be possible that some D's might not have passed, for whatever
reason.  Could it be possible that some VIN's (not vehicles) were pitched
entirely and brought back down to square one?  Just another 2 cent thought.
Keep 'em couning!

-Mike A.
----- Original Message -----
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Math


> I belive DMC used Aurther Anderson as their accountants. That explains
lot's
> of fuzzy math.
>
> Bruce Benson
>
>
> > Now no matter how hard I try, I cannot get the above numbers to add
> > up to 2,487.  When I add 1,391+649+1,041+53, I get 3,134.  Does >anyone
> > know where 2,487 came from?  >
> > So, did anyone get this far before falling asleep?  Have any comments
> > on this huge monstrosity of a post?
> >
> > John Yeoman
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>





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