[DML] Digest Number 1030
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[DML] Digest Number 1030



Title: [DML] Digest Number 1030

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: blown head gasket
           From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
      2. RE: Thanks
           From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
      3. Re: blown head gasket
           From: "A.H. MacIntosh & Co." <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxx>
      4. Re: auto tranny comp finally replaced..
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      5. Re: blown head gasket
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      6. Is it true?
           From: "bmw_delorean" <giastardust@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. RE: DeLoreans from DMC Houston
           From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
      8. rough week
           From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. RE: Overheating Fuel Tank.
           From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
     10. Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail
           From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
     11. Smokey Yunik Delorean?
           From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
     12. Re: Is it true?
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     13. Happy DeLorean Thoughts
           From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     14. Re: DeLoreans from DMC Houston
           From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
     15. Re: blown head gasket
           From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
     16. Re: Smokey Yunik Delorean?
           From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
     17. Is it true? Door leaks
           From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
     18. Re: Happy DeLorean Thoughts
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     19. Re: Smokey Yunik Delorean?
           From: <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     20. Re: Re: DeLoreans from DMC Houston
           From: <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     21. Re: Happy DeLorean Thoughts
           From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
     22. Re: Re: Happy DeLorean Thoughts
           From: aabclafon@xxxxxxx
     23. RE: Smokey Yunik Delorean?
           From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     24. Re: Smokey Yunik Delorean?
           From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
     25. RE: Is it true? Door leaks
           From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 03:27:22 -0000
   From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: blown head gasket

If the car has overheated to a dangerous point., than a tell-tale
item will be that the small, plastic screen inside where you pour
the oil into the motor will be melted. But that doesn't nessisarily
mean that engine damage has occured in 100% of all cases. My
car has had this happen, and the engine still runs strong.
Although generally I would consider myself to be VERY fortunate!

Other than that, the motor oil is supposed to have the
appearance of a "chocolate milk shake". It will usually be
accompanied by foam. There may also be oil in the coolant as
well in the case of a blown head gasket.

Others on the list here may know of other signs as well.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "paulkane45" <paulkane45@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm looking at a Delorean here in MN and I have a suspicion
that it
> has a blown head gasket. Does anyone here have a quick way
i can
> check on a D without bringing it to a mechanic?
>
> just wondering
> josh




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Message: 2
   Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 23:45:25 -0400
   From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Thanks

What exactly did u see at my site?

-----Original Message-----
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx [mailto:DHughes030@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 10:38 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Thanks


My RH coolant hose is also just as you described, even after replacing all
rubbers.  I saw one on a hoist at Kevin(?) Abato's site that looked the same
also.
   Don  6860


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Message: 3
   Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 22:55:57 -0500
   From: "A.H. MacIntosh & Co." <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: blown head gasket

a few quick checks (not perfect, but what is?)

el-cheapo vacuum gauge, watch for a regular dipping in the reading at idle,
and just off idle. (in neutral) Second, look in oil, any milky colour is a
likely indication of contamination... bad thing. At idle (check both at
cold, and hot temps) look for excessive water vapor in the exhaust, and the
smell of coolant. Last, with the engine warm, not hot, carefully remove
coolant tank cap, watch for any bubbles, and smell for exhaust odor in the
coolant, accelerate engine and watch to see if you get a bunch of bubbles as
you accelerate the engine suddenly. shut the engine off, and look for the
rainbow colours of oil floating on the coolant.

A gasket blown between the combustion chambers, and coolant passages is the
most common failure of a head gasket, but with the PRV's low compression it
would be hard to imagine. This type of blown gasket will cause very (I mean
very!) fast, and extreme rise in coolant temperature on a road test.

There may be a few other indicators someone else may remember....

A bad head gasket on a low perf motor like the PRV would make me think there
was a warped head/block... that would be not too good.


Which part of MN are you in?


----- Original Message -----
From: "paulkane45" <paulkane45@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 20:27
Subject: [DML] blown head gasket


> I'm looking at a Delorean here in MN and I have a suspicion that it
> has a blown head gasket. Does anyone here have a quick way i can
> check on a D without bringing it to a mechanic?
>
> just wondering
> josh
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 4
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 04:02:34 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: auto tranny comp finally replaced..

If you have in fact a bad switch it can be cut loose and another good
switch spliced in. Connect color for color. If it is a new one you
should be able to return it for another, of course it depends on where
you got it. It is a very good idea to have a fully functional neutral
start switch so don't jumper it out except for testing. Since you are
having trouble with your shift computer make sure the kick-down switch
is also functioning. The neutral start switch doesn't have any effect
on the shifting. The switch cannot be serviced as once you open it up
you will not be able to reassemble and crimp it back together.
 As for cleaning the stainless try isopropal alcohol. Then Windex. I
find for quick clean-ups Windex doesn't leave a residue or spots. The
best thing is that expensive spray so I try to keep the use of that to
a minimum.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> Well I finally got around to installing my new autotrans governor.
It
> was a painless installation, much easier than I expected. Took about
> two hours, and thats cause I was being carefull.
>
> Anyway when I went to start the car after the install, it wouldnt
> start.. I found that the park safety switch for the new unit is
> broken inside somehow. I jumpered the two pins on the block
connector
> together in the engine bay, and the car will start.. in any gear
> position.
>
> Also the car will start fine with the old unit plugged into the
block
> connector. If I push one of the buttons, the reverse lights come on,
> if I push the other, the car wont start. On the failed unit, the car
> will not start with the button in any position.
>
> So my questions are thus: How are these two switches set up inside
> the unit? Are they completely independent of the shift comp? It
seems
> like they are, since I have driven my car with the jumper in place
> and it shifts fine.
>
> If I open the plug housing for these two switches, can they be
> serviced? Should I maybe cut the plugs off the two units I have and
> swap them around, I could crimp the good plug to the good shift
comp?
>
> Also, I got some oil and maybe trans fluid on my stainless. What is
a
> good way to wash it off? I also ordered my Pirellis yesterday,
P6000s
> and P600s!!
>
> Adam 16683




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Message: 5
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 04:15:33 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: blown head gasket

Check the engine oil for signs of overheating and white foam which
indicates water in the oil. Pull the oil fill and inspect the
underside for water droplets. Remove the pressure cap on the header
bottle and look for bubbles which indicates a combustion pressure leak
into the cooling system. Look at the exterior of the motor for caked
on oil, if there are any external oil leaks and the motor overheated
the oil would have burned. Look at the cooling system hoses for any
that were recently replaced which would hint at an overheat. In
general the most common reason the head gaskets are blown is if the
engine was overheated. Other tests are a combustion leak detecter
test, compression test of each cylinder, PH test of the coolant,
pressure test of the cooling system. Typical symptoms of a blown head
gasket are coolant blowing out the overflow, rough running, low power,
white smoke in the exhaust, water in the engine oil. The symptoms will
vary depending on the extent of the damage. In extreme cases the
engine will hydrostaticaly lock if enough coolant leaks into the
combustion chambers. This does not need to be a deal-stopper, just
make an offer taking into account the expense required to replace the
head gaskets and associated work. Figure at least 10% more than
estimated to be safe as there is always more to be done then you
think.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "paulkane45" <paulkane45@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm looking at a Delorean here in MN and I have a suspicion that it
> has a blown head gasket. Does anyone here have a quick way i can
> check on a D without bringing it to a mechanic?
>
> just wondering
> josh




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 09:49:33 -0000
   From: "bmw_delorean" <giastardust@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Is it true?

Hi to all!
Well,i'd like to know if it's true that Deloreans have water
infiltrations due to the kind of doors (gullwing) and that windows
escape from guides.
Thank you very much




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Message: 7
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 06:44:42 -0500
   From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DeLoreans from DMC Houston

Mike,
Why don't you ask DMC Houston?

Scott Mueller
002981
scott.a.mueller (at) att.net

-----Original Message-----
From: mikesdelorean [mailto:mike@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 10:01 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] DeLoreans from DMC Houston


Upon buying a DeLorean from DMC Houston, a few questions come to mind
that some owners may know.  When the cars are refurbished, do they
come with the minor upgrades such as the SS surge tank and fuel
return line?  What about the door handles and the window mechanism. 
I hear new parts are available in all metal with no plastic parts. 
Are these new parts incorperated into the refurbished care?  Anyone
who knows, please write back.  Thanx for your time.

-Mike




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Message: 8
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 06:26:23 -0500
   From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: rough week

It's been a rough week with the D...
First-- a coolant leak around the pressure cap. After it cooled off and I
filled it up I noticed that the cap wasn't all the way tight and that let
the coolant escape. I think I will replace the 20 year old cap as well as
the plastic bottle. heh. Is there a market for plastic bottles in good
shape?
Second-- the louvre doesn't like to open now. It hits the t-panel on the
right side as it first lifts. I took off the plastic screen that secures the
t-panel rear edge and it is extremely warped. I don't think it hold the
t-panel down tight. But the louvre also looks higher on the left side than
on the right. I seem to remember that the louvre hinge system is adjustable.
Anyone got some hints on that?
Third-- the car wouldn't start and smelled flooded when I went out to leave
for lunch yesterday. It would start to turn over and cough along for a bit
and if I hit the gas it would die. The engine wasn't exactly hot it had been
three+ hours since last run but it was almost 90 already. Does this sound
like the hot-start problem? I've never experienced that and am not sure.
Fourth-- an orange wire w/ inline fuse in the relay compartment, out near
the outside wall, looks all hot and melted. It wouldn't come out easily. Is
this one of the wires that fixed the fan-fail problem? And, I take it, it
has been working too hard. Martin I may have to go dig out all the notes
about making your device and try to locate a source for those parts real
soon. Maybe I'll get John's low-cost fix until I can get that one built.

Sigh....
-Kevin
#4687
Hot,Humid, (and finally getting some rain! nice light show!) Houston




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Message: 9
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 06:49:12 -0500
   From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Overheating Fuel Tank.

Robert,
When the gasoline heats up, it is more prone to vaporize in the pump suction
and cause cavitation.  Cavitation sounds like gravel going through your
pump.  The three major sources of heat are the coolant piping along side the
tank, hot air from the radiators and heat form the engine via the fuel
return line.



Scott Mueller
002981
scott.a.mueller (at) att.net

-----Original Message-----
From: therealdmcvegas [mailto:DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 5:28 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Overheating Fuel Tank.


So far, my car has been ok thru the early summer heat. But
Tuesday I had to make a trip across town forr my job. And I had
the car parked outside the whole day. Long story short, my fuel
pump became quite noisy. So much so to the point where I coulf
feel the vibration from the fuel line thru the center console!
Durring this time, I also noticed that my voltage took a severe
drop @ idle. With the A/C on, and the fan on speed 2, the needle
was down to the 2nd mark  on the voltmeter! Usually I can only
hit that mark with the fan on 4, rear defroster, and all clearance
lamps & high beams on! So, my guess is not that the fuel hose
is collapsing ( there is a spring installed), but that the excess
heat in the tank is causing the internals of the pump to expand,
and thus grind making the sound. The kicker though, was this.
When I parked the car for 20 minutes, and got back in, the sound
was worse! After driving about 4-5 miles, it did quiet back down a
bit. But did not improve from where it was before. With the
exception of after I parked the car, and until the fuel cooled a bit,
the accelleration on my car was fine.

Now, from all this, I have determined the following:
1. A noisy fuel pump isn't always due to a collapsing fuel pick-up
hose.
2. Air flow from the front radiator is NOT heating the fuel. When I
stopped the air flow, the noise became worse. It wasn't until I
restored air flow that there was a sign of cooling.

So, I've determined that the heat MUST be comming from the
coolant pipes that run along the sides of the fuel cell (I do
believe that Walt mentioned this one before). So, now  I have the
following questions. I've seen ads that giving a ceramic coating
to exhaut pipes helps to keep the heat inside of them, and
reduces the heat in the engine compartment. Does this really
work? If so, can I expect the same results for the two sections of
pipe next to the tank? This is the only "safe" solution that comes
to mind. I've no idea what kind of a reaction household insulation
would have with high water temps and/or chemicals found in
that region of the car.

Venting the tank to air flow is another entire possibility, but I have
concerns about aerodynamics and compromising the integrity of
the plate protecting the tank on the bottom.

Ideas?

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 10
   Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 00:08:29 EDT
   From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail

Martin, I'm really not trying to argue with you or any engineers, I just work
with them for years and saw what they like to do. Like I said I just try to
keep it simple. If we tried to engineer for every possible circumstance that
we could think of, the price would be cost prohibited, but we would have one
Hell of a wigget.
I think the Fanzilla is a good product also, but I do things it doesn't and
people complained about the price . It's like I have told several people, it
is what it is and the Fan Fix is what it is. People have bought mine and like
the constant light on while the fans are getting power, plus all the other
features it has as outlined earlier.
Anything, The Fan Fix and Fanzilla are both an upgrade for the wire that De
Lorean put in the sockets to replace the fan fail.. That had nothing for
added protection, no light coming or going. You were just dead in the water.
As, I said and it wasn't pointed out in this post, I don't draw the fan
voltage or current off the wiring loom, so I don't have to stagger. I also
don't build in the stagger because as said in a post several weeks ago, by
the time it's done it's over. You know what I mean, Look at the spike on a
scope, it milliseconds if that. 

 #1  In my design, I've kept the "quirk" of the light coming on for a
 second each time the fans engage. Should one or other fail, it'll stay
 on. I like the visual indicator too. ( Good we agree, It's just not
constant. )

 #3  If the motors have such a low failure rate, they should never draw
enough to trip the circuit breaker anyway. ( No, Not totally true, As the
motors turn and the brushes wear down the current goes up, thus they can blow
a fuse during start up because of the fast acting, the circuit breaker is
very forgiving and could stand the abuse of higher current draw much longer.
Also, the bearings over time will wear down and again blow a fuse faster than
a circuit breaker will respond. That's why I fuse each fan with a 15 amps
fuse due to the fans draw 14 amps of run current and the fuse will handle the
start current up as long as the above conditions don't apply. ) The excess
current is created by poor connections in the crimps, terminals etc. You're
bypassing these with your system, I'd replace them.
( I'm not bypassing them . Again I fuse at 15 amps and the fans draw 14 run.
You also know as an engineer that if the inrush current was to high the fuse
will blow faster. If the fans don't get the current they need, the start up
current curver is longer and the fast acting fuse will blow. Bad connectors
will help cause this effect.
 #4  The design I've come up with thus far is very simple - I was very
 pleased when I found those Philips switches because as everyone knows,
 solid state devices (no moving parts) are MORE reliable than relays.
 Cost of components is about $20 total....
( Your right, I feel they are more reliable also, but if one of them goes, a
relay that has lasted 20 years with two fans and now mine has one for each
fan can be bought almost anywhere by any body.) If you don't know electronics
very well and I'm not around in 20 years . Any one can replace a relay.
Again, If the original 20/30 lasted 10 to 15 years , then how long will my 40
amps last now only handling one fan each at 15 amps ea.)
 
 I happilly stick my hand in the air and say "of course this isn't
 necessary" - but the DeLorean was designed to tell you when one of your
 fans fail - a unique feature I'd like to restore. I also like the
 sequencing function of the FanZilla, which my design performs, yours
 does not.
( You have a light on the dash that tells you your head lights are on, with
mine you have a light that your fans are getting voltage. The sequencing is a
nice feature and as I said i can do it also, but on my design, why.) Again,
I just go by the Kis. Keep it simple.

 To answer your specific comment "I like to see engineers get onto a
 problem and make it bigger than it is" reminds me of a saying among
 engineers "if it ain't broke, fix it till it is" :-) Seriously though, I
 started thinking of all possible outcomes: What about a freak piece of
 debris flying up from the wheel and slicing through the cabling to the
 fans? My system (and the FanZilla, as far as I know) will detect this
 immediately.Yours will not. (Your right, mine won't detect it. The fans
would just shut off, But the chances are what 1 in a million.) 
 
 In designing and building fighting robots, there's one lesson I've
 learnt very painfully: Don't design the thing for all the eventualities
 you can think of, design it for those you CAN'T think of..
 
 I really do need to stop talking about it and go and actually BUILD one
 of these badgers, don't I?!!!
Yes you do and I will sell it If you like on the web site.Or I might build it
for you with my people and sources. But, by the time we get through, will it
be under $99.00. Box, labor, boards, solder, time, sockets, pins, wire, heat
sink, so on.
 
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/

 
 >Martin, Joe and Group.
 >
 <snip>
 
 
 
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Message: 11
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:52:06 -0000
   From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Smokey Yunik Delorean?

Does anyone know about the Smokey Yunik Delorean with teh Hot vapor
engine in it?

ebay number 1829805434 tells a bit about it.




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Message: 12
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 14:10:41 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Is it true?

In the very early cars there were problems with water. A factory
bulletin gave info on how to cure any leaks. The doors on the Delorean
are no more prone to leakage then any other car. The biggest issue now
is that the seals on many cars are getting old which will cause leaks.
Replacing the seals and going over all of the seams will fix any
leaks. A similar problem with the windows. On the early cars things
didn't fit perfectly all of the time. An adjustment will fix this. The
bigger problem for the windows is the flimsy regulater (lift
mechanism). Eventually it will fail but the Delorean venders sell an
improved version that will last. There are many other problems the
early cars had like the alternater and recalls but for the most part
many of these cars had these early problems corrected. If you are
thinking of getting a Delorean CONDITION is the primary issue. In
buying a 20 year old car how it was taken care of is far more
important than some of the early production problems.
David Teiutelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "bmw_delorean" <giastardust@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi to all!
> Well,i'd like to know if it's true that Deloreans have water
> infiltrations due to the kind of doors (gullwing) and that windows
> escape from guides.
> Thank you very much




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Message: 13
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 11:00:39 -0400
   From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Happy DeLorean Thoughts

The DML has seen a bunch of problems and questions about problems
lately.  I just want to post that my DeLorean is not experiencing any
problems.

It's running great.  I drove it from Cleveland to Wheeling for the DCO
event a couple of weeks ago with no hint of trouble.  Last fall I drove
it from Cleveland to Evansville with no problems.

I drive it in city traffic all the time with no cooling problems.

Both power windows work perfectly.  So does my air conditioner.

My DeLorean's doors & windows do not leak when I wash it.

My dome lights work.  My tail lights work.  My brake lights work.  By
back-up lights work.

I've got about 70,000 miles on the original clutch, and it works fine.

My brakes work perfectly.  My steering is nice and tight.

My doors stay open when I open them (new struts) and closed when I close
them.  I can get in and out any time I like.

My cassette player works.  So does my clock.

My headliners don't sag and my dashboard isn't faded.

My Ducey alternator works just fine.  I haven't had a dead battery in
years.

My DeLorean's biggest problem is with radio reception.  Since replacing
my windshield I have no antenna at all.  But I can still tune in most
radio stations within about 20 miles, which is about the same as when I
had the windshield antenna.

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, since 1994




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Message: 14
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:09:08 -0500
   From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLoreans from DMC Houston

Mike,

When I browsed DMC Houston's website, I got the impression that they
restored their vehicles to factory original status, which means OEM
parts. I doubt that the stainless steel tank, for example, would have
been installed as none of the original DMC-12s had them installed.
However, I am not sure about the issues addressed by the service
bulletins so you might want to investigate that. Try getting in touch
with someone else who bought a refurbished DMC-12 from DMC Houston. Or
call DMC Houston personally. I'm sure the people there would like to
hear from you. I know I was always interested in a serious customer when
I was selling pianos, even if the purchase was a long way off -- it's
always nice to see consumers educating themselves. :)

Right, I'm off to find some adhesive remover to see if it provides the
euphoria that Dave's girlfriend and that other bloke got ... :P

Regards,
Farrar Hudkins
New Orleans, LA
'98 Ranger XLT "Laggy"
--
www.wwno.org
504-280-7000



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Message: 15
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:43:49 -0000
   From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: blown head gasket

Alright, another Minnesota enthusiast!  Josh, I live in the Twin
Cities, and would be more than happy to give this potential D a good
once-over if you wish.  Not exactly sure where you are in MN, but
since I love driving most distances are never a problem.  (I drove 200
miles round trip this morning just to get 10 ounces of Freon put in).
 I'll be in Chicago this weekend attending the DeLorean Midwest
Connection's tech session, so I probably wont get any emails untill
Sunday evening.  But as most people on this list would say, good luck
with the DeLorean, and I hope all goes well.  Send me an email
somtime.  ultra(at)isd.net

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "paulkane45" <paulkane45@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm looking at a Delorean here in MN
> just wondering
> josh




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Message: 16
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:29:19 EDT
   From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Smokey Yunik Delorean?


    Smokey Yunick was a great engine builder for race cars and experimental
engine development for the big four, especially General Motors racing a.k.a.
Pontiac. Smokey was instrumental in restoring and saving the rear engine,
semi-gullwing Corvette from the late 1960s.

    "Smokey died at 77 after a fight with leukemia. Yunick was easy to
recognize. Most of the time he would be dressed in a bright white overalls
and a cowboy hat as he chewed on a corn pipe. He had no formal education but
was considered one of the top minds in automobile engine design. He was a
revered icon in the industry.
    Yunick also did research and development on hydraulics, fuel intakes and
engine mileage. He built an engine in the 1970s that he boasted could go
nearly 100 miles on a gallon of regular gasoline."

    In 1981, DMC loaned Smokey Yunick a DMC-12 for engine evaluation and
engine high performance consultation. The car was offered for sale after
Smokey Yunick's death.

    At the time of his death, Smokey Yunick was working on two projects. The
first was writing a book, actually a three volume set, dealing with his life
and racing exploits. The book will be published at the end of June or early
July.  DeLorean engine work wasn't one of his projects.

    Smokey's son offered the DeLorean for sale, as John Truscott of the
DeLorean Owners Association has information on the specifics of the car and
the current whereabouts.

        I just watched a portion of the John DeLorean speech at the Cleveland
DeLorean show. John says that he is currently working with Smokey Yunick to
develop a new engine for his new car venture. I knew that DeLorean was a car
genius, but channeling to the dead with a "Ouija board" for engine work is
another.
   
Best Wishes,
Michael Pack



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Message: 17
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:37:08 EDT
   From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Is it true? Door leaks


    The answer is a small yes and a big no.
   
    The DeLorean car venture problems reminds me of Alejandro DeTomaso -
founder of DeTomaso Automobili S.p.A.  
   
    DeTomaso had an agreement with Ford Motor to develop a European sports
car to sell in existing American car retail dealerships. The car was the
Pantera. The Pantera although fast & after extensive modifications a good
car, needed extensive reworking when new. Even though DeTomaso had an
agreement & money from Ford, the Panteras were rough and lacked fit & finish
detail. The cars leaked.


    The very first DeLorean cars assembled needed a lot of love by the first
owners and the dealer technicians. The cars as a whole were just as good, if
not better, that the current offerings from any of the car
manufactures...especially the POS American cars from 1981.

    The very first cars delivered to the United States, needed hours of
"quality assurance evaluation." The early cars were partially disassembled
and reassembled to correct the poor workmanship from the Irish factory
workforce & engineering miscalculations from DMC & Lotus.

    The workmanship issues and miscalculations were small, detail oriented,
fit & finish miscalculations, not major structural defects or poor
engineering planning.
   
    One of the first examples of an engineering miscalculation was water
dripping into the interior by the headliner material in the first hundred
DeLorean cars.

    The Headliner material consists of four parts. Two door areas and fore
aft areas. The gullwing headliner areas are flawless as was the aft area. The
area that gave the DeLorean owner grievance was the fore area of the
headliner.

    The material in that area was tucked under the gigantic gullwing door
weather seal in the door water channel areas. [Bricklin cars didn't have a
water channel or in some cases, weather seals causing a deluge of water to
enter the interior] The material that was tucked under the seal, absorbed
water accumulating enough water to eventually drip into the interior. A small
drip, not a deluge of water.

     This small detail oriented mistake was corrected buy a pair of
scissors...to cut the headliner material out of the water channel, and away
from the door weather seal. Problem solved. The miscalculation wasn't in one
of the 14 pieces of weather seals, it was a small piece of headliner material.


Best Wishes,
Michael Pack



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Message: 18
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 17:47:42 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Happy DeLorean Thoughts

When we hear about problems people start to assume that everyone has
them. A car that is well taken care of is less likely to have problems
and if you keep up with them then you only have one or two "issues" to
deal with. In your case I can recomend you go to Radio Shack and get
an antennae amplifier. Even though you don't have an antennae it
should help. You could also install one of those kits that tape a wire
to the inside of the windshield. The best solution would be to
install a retactable antennae in the left quarter as the newer cars
have.
 I cannot boast the same mileage as you but with over 6000 miles on my
car it is running perfectly. Of course this is after a lot of work
including a rebuilt automatic transmission, full tune-up, replacement
of all the hoses, waterpump, radiater, door seals and struts, and
such. Any defects on my car are only cosmetic as you know since you
and your wife judged my car!
 In my experience I have found that as owners let the little things go
without being fixed the list piles up until it becomes too big to even
start. They "put up" with these minor things until something big
happens and then they get disgusted with the car and look to "unload"
it. You can tell a lot about the owner's interest in a car by the way
they take care of it and how many problems it has.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxx> wrote:
> The DML has seen a bunch of problems and questions about problems
> lately.  I just want to post that my DeLorean is not experiencing
any
> problems.
>
> It's running great.  I drove it from Cleveland to Wheeling for the
DCO
> event a couple of weeks ago with no hint of trouble.  Last fall I
drove
> it from Cleveland to Evansville with no problems.
>
> I drive it in city traffic all the time with no cooling problems.
>
> Both power windows work perfectly.  So does my air conditioner.
>
> My DeLorean's doors & windows do not leak when I wash it.
>
> My dome lights work.  My tail lights work.  My brake lights work. 
By
> back-up lights work.
>
> I've got about 70,000 miles on the original clutch, and it works
fine.
>
> My brakes work perfectly.  My steering is nice and tight.
>
> My doors stay open when I open them (new struts) and closed when I
close
> them.  I can get in and out any time I like.
>
> My cassette player works.  So does my clock.
>
> My headliners don't sag and my dashboard isn't faded.
>
> My Ducey alternator works just fine.  I haven't had a dead battery
in
> years.
>
> My DeLorean's biggest problem is with radio reception.  Since
replacing
> my windshield I have no antenna at all.  But I can still tune in
most
> radio stations within about 20 miles, which is about the same as
when I
> had the windshield antenna.
>
> - Mike Substelny
> VIN 01280, since 1994




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Message: 19
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 13:58:42 -0400
   From: <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Smokey Yunik Delorean?

All I know is mentioned in SSI... I've wondered about it and Smokey's engines (in general) myself.

Hey, Darryl T-- have you used Smokey's book on Chevy V-6's to improve your DeLorean?

On Fri, 17 May 2002 12:52:06 -0000 erikgeerdink <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Does anyone know about the Smokey Yunik Delorean with teh Hot vapor
engine in it?

ebay number 1829805434 tells a bit about it.



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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 20
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 14:03:18 -0400
   From: <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLoreans from DMC Houston

There are no more plastic coolant bottles available NOS; DMC-Hou sella metal ones like all the others, and I am sure that is what they use on their cars.

Hence, my question about selling my good plastic one... probably some concours people interested?



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Message: 21
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 18:51:48 -0000
   From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Happy DeLorean Thoughts

--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> My DeLorean's biggest problem is with radio reception.  Since
replacing
> my windshield I have no antenna at all.  But I can still tune in
most
> radio stations within about 20 miles, which is about the same
as when I
> had the windshield antenna.
>
> - Mike Substelny
> VIN 01280, since 1994

A little over a month ago, I went with a friend to take a look @ a
DeLorean that he was considering purchasing. Admittedly, it
was the first time that I had seen a windscreen with the antenna
in it. Or perhaps I should say 'on' it. The only thing that I could tell
that was embedded was a simple post for the antenna wire to
attach to. The rest of the antenna was simply "printed" on with
the same material as a rear window defrostor.

It's a little late now, but not impossible. If you want to maintain
originality, Just pick up a bottle of the defrostor repair "paint".
Mask off the sections where you want the antenna  to go, and
then just draw it on. To connect it up, just solder on a spade, and
crimp on a connector. It should connect the exact same as a
defroster would. Plus, since it is custom, you could extend the
antenna to cover a wider range, and you might be able to hide
the connection below the dash.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 22
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:49:05 EDT
   From: aabclafon@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Happy DeLorean Thoughts

I do not post much, but thought I would give my two cents worth.  I have had
my
Delorean for almost a year and a half.   It needs some of the upgrades, but I
have
not had time to take it to Ohio to do so.   

In the last year and half, I have spent  maybe $300 dollars.  Though, I drive
it
mainly on the weekends, I have not had any problems.  It has $18,000 miles
on it and it runs well.    I have spent way more on my Dodge Caravan and
Blazer
and they are both still under warranty.

Thanks
Dave L.
#2572



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Message: 23
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 13:03:14 -0700
   From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Smokey Yunik Delorean?

Michael said:
<I just watched a portion of the John DeLorean speech at the Cleveland
DeLorean show. John says that he is currently working with Smokey Yunick
to
develop a new engine for his new car venture. I knew that DeLorean was a
car
genius, but channeling to the dead with a "Ouija board" for engine work
is
another.>

John made the statement at the Cleveland Show in the middle of June
2000.
A "Ouija board" was not required at that time, because Smokey Yunick
didn't die until May 9th 2001. 

:-)

Gary
IN2TIME





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Message: 24
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 20:14:08 -0000
   From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Smokey Yunik Delorean?

--- In dmcnews@xxxx, <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> All I know is mentioned in SSI... I've wondered about it and
Smokey's engines (in general) myself.
<SNIP>
> Does anyone know about the Smokey Yunik Delorean with teh
Hot vapor
> engine in it?

Simply put, a "Hot Vapor" engine is basicly a Sterling engine
(rather than go into mechanical details, visit the site below http://
www.stirlingengine.com/).

I believe back in 1982 is when JZD took a business trip down to
Florida to visit w/Yunick about the sterling engine. If I remember
correctly, this is mentioned both in "De Lorean", & "Hard Driving".
Both books give different perspectives of the flight down. Haddad
made it sound like JZD was wasting his time with a fruitless
project. And JZD stated that Haddad kept leaning over to the
same position as if he was wearing a wire, and was trying to
record the conversation.

As for the engine, I had no idea that one was actually built! It
would be interesting to see what exactly it looks like, if not some
performance/fuel consumption stats. As a side tidbit for you
Bricklin fans, Malcolm Brickin too was also working on the
development of a Sterling engine as well for the SV1. About 3-4
years ago, someone had a web page about B's that had an
artist's conception of what the engine was supposed to have
looked like. How far development progressed with that one, I've
no idea...

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 25
   Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:27:45 -0500
   From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Is it true? Door leaks

Senator,
It seems that you forgot to give credit for the quotes that you used in this
an the previous message.
;>)

Scott Mueller
002981
scott.a.mueller (at) att.net

-----Original Message-----
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx [mailto:Senatorpack@xxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 11:37 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Is it true? Door leaks



    The answer is a small yes and a big no.

    The DeLorean car venture problems reminds me of Alejandro DeTomaso -
founder of DeTomaso Automobili S.p.A.

    DeTomaso had an agreement with Ford Motor to develop a European sports
car to sell in existing American car retail dealerships. The car was the
Pantera. The Pantera although fast & after extensive modifications a good
car, needed extensive reworking when new. Even though DeTomaso had an
agreement & money from Ford, the Panteras were rough and lacked fit & finish
detail. The cars leaked.


    The very first DeLorean cars assembled needed a lot of love by the first
owners and the dealer technicians. The cars as a whole were just as good, if
not better, that the current offerings from any of the car
manufactures...especially the POS American cars from 1981.

    The very first cars delivered to the United States, needed hours of
"quality assurance evaluation." The early cars were partially disassembled
and reassembled to correct the poor workmanship from the Irish factory
workforce & engineering miscalculations from DMC & Lotus.

    The workmanship issues and miscalculations were small, detail oriented,
fit & finish miscalculations, not major structural defects or poor
engineering planning.

    One of the first examples of an engineering miscalculation was water
dripping into the interior by the headliner material in the first hundred
DeLorean cars.

    The Headliner material consists of four parts. Two door areas and fore
aft areas. The gullwing headliner areas are flawless as was the aft area.
The
area that gave the DeLorean owner grievance was the fore area of the
headliner.

    The material in that area was tucked under the gigantic gullwing door
weather seal in the door water channel areas. [Bricklin cars didn't have a
water channel or in some cases, weather seals causing a deluge of water to
enter the interior] The material that was tucked under the seal, absorbed
water accumulating enough water to eventually drip into the interior. A
small
drip, not a deluge of water.

     This small detail oriented mistake was corrected buy a pair of
scissors...to cut the headliner material out of the water channel, and away
from the door weather seal. Problem solved. The miscalculation wasn't in one
of the 14 pieces of weather seals, it was a small piece of headliner
material.


Best Wishes,
Michael Pack


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________
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