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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Car #501 (WAS: "Black" DeLoreans)
From: "Bob & Vicky Miller" <delo1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: brake runout specs
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Rockville MD sighting
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
4. Fan Zilla
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
5. Re: VIN TAGS was Car #501 (WAS: "Black" DeLoreans)
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: how fast was vin#502 twin turbo prototype
From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
7. The 4 X 4 Delorean in Texas for sale on http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com
From: j seigel <wtbstuff@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: poll results
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. New Stereo - No Power
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: brake runout specs
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: VIN TAGS was Car #501 (WAS: "Black" DeLoreans)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
12. RE: brake runout specs
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Heat Stove Function.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
14. Re: New Stereo - No Power
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. new delorean poster
From: P12C16@xxxxxxx
16. Re: The 4 X 4 Delorean in Texas for sale
From: Horseman of PA <the_horseman_pa@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: The 4 X 4 Delorean in Texas for sale
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: New Stereo - No Power
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
19. Re: parking brake dragging too much?
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: New Stereo - No Power
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Fan Zilla
From: "carnut4849" <gmfm1@xxxxxxx>
22. Old magazine
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
23. Comments posted
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
24. Re: The 4 X 4 Delorean in Texas for sale
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
25. Re: brake runout specs
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 00:05:57 -0500
From: "Bob & Vicky Miller" <delo1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Car #501 (WAS: "Black" DeLoreans)
hello all my sources tell me p j Grady bought # 501 . can any body confirm?
bob miller
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 17:45:47 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: brake runout specs
There are no published specs for the runout of the rotors. There is
also no published spec on parellelism. In general the runout should be
kept below .0025" and parelleism .0005". (Parden my speeling).
The only effect these specs have is on preventing pulsation of the
brake pedal. This is important not only for the improvement in feel of
the brake pedal but to prevent premature lock-up of the brakes in
partial application situations and cross control effects in steering.
To measure run-out it is best done on a brake lathe to remove the
measuring of the play in the wheel bearings. Parelleism or thickness
variation is easily done at several points around the rotor with a
micrometer. These specs have very little bearing on brake pad life. To
fix these variations rotors are cut on brake lathes. At this time most
Delorean venders don't recomend this. Causes for needing to cut rotors
are the following, wearing the pads out and the backing plate contacts
the rotors, excessive braking manuvers, unequal and or improper
torquing of the lug nuts, excessive rust. Although the rotors are
considered to be a wearable item, with proper care and inspections
they can last a very long time. Excessive runout will eventually cause
wear on the retaining pins that hold the calipers in. This should not
cause any damage to the calipers but it is not good to drive a car
with excessive brake pedal pulsation as it is very annoying. Any 1
rotor could cause this including the rears so measure them all and you
may only have 1 bad one. All of this is assuming there is only
steering wheel shake when you apply the brakes.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Question 1: What is the maximum allowable brake runout on the
rotors? I'm
> almost to the point of putting the car back on the ground, but I've
noticed
> that both my new rear rotors appear to have around 1mm wobble inside
the
> calipers. This seems to be excessive to me, but I would like to
know anyone
> else's opinion.
>
> Question 2: Will moderate rotor runout cause premature wear to the
calipers?
> Before I took the system apart, I had an annoying amount of steering
wheel
> shake as I applied the brakes. I figured that the calipers were
toast
> anyway with the sludge I had for brake fluid. But with new calipers
all
> around, I don't want to mess them up.
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:54:13 -0500
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: Rockville MD sighting
There is a Delorean that parks on Gather Road in rockville, everyday for
work. Is this person on the list? Please email me.
Thanks
Willie Mack
Vin 5043
DOA 5940
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/wmack
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:54:12 -0500
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: Fan Zilla
Hey Folks
I just picked up a Fan Zilla from PJ Grady. I installed it, and nothing
happened. I turned the engine on and the tempeture rose to 220 before i
turned it off and put the old relay in. The radiator fans are not turning
on. Any ideas on what to look for? I know the directions called for
original wiring. I can't look under the relay socket to tell what wires are
going under there.
Thanks for the help and a merry christmas
Willie
VIN 5043
DOA 5940
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/wmack
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 18:30:19 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: VIN TAGS was Car #501 (WAS: "Black" DeLoreans)
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> As I said in my previous message, my information on #501 may be
> incorrect.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: deloreanernst@xxxx [mailto:deloreanernst@a...]
> Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 10:35 AM
>
> > The car I believe to be 501 is still around (the VIN plate is
> missing).
> >
>
> Both VIN plates are missing...? Door frame and at lead edge of
> dashboard?
Were the Vin Plates removed/Destroyed by the Factory(DMC)and if not
why were the vin plates(both) removed/destroyed in the first place?As
it is against the law to remove/tamper with the vin plates.Also if
the plates were removed,then THERE IS no way to prove that car is
truly Vin#501,as there is NO other type of I.D. on the vehicle
(ex:engine plate tranny plate ect.)that can prove that, that car is
truly vin#501.So in essence VIN #501 as it stands does not exist,for
purposes of leagle identifaction,As I bought a Delorean parts car
with one I.D. tag missing and in Connecticut it is a DOA Vehicle,as
you must have at least two Factory VIN tags(and with the Delorean
there are only two),so if one is missing/tampered,you have a
problem,if both are missing/removed you have a parts car only!!!
Also even if the Vin Tags(both)were put back on that car(vin.501) HOW
CAN you prove that they truly belonged on that Delorean,as THE only
thing that seperates one Delorean from another IS the Vin TAGS.And
how do we not know that they were not "switched" onto a "Better"
Delorean.And the real Vin#501,may have been/became a parts
car.Something to think about BEFORE tampering/removing your vin
plates,even if it is just to do a restoration on your Delorean.
Claude
Vin#000570
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 19:30:32 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: how fast was vin#502 twin turbo prototype
According to the article in the DeLorean Gold Portfolio, 502 did the
0-60 in 5.8 seconds and a quarter mile in 14.7 seconds. No speed is
listed for the 1/4 mile however. There also are no specs on the
horsepower and torque of the engine, but I was told by a knoledgeble
person on the subject its around 300hp. 502 did not have a winning
bidder on the Ebay auction, but according to my sources it was
purchased by a private party the following week. I'll leave it up to
the new owner to disclose that information shall they choose to do so.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "snextime" <ionicdesign@xxxx> wrote:
> i was wondering how fast was the prototype twin turbo in the 1/4
mile? also did anybody win the auction for this car on ebay?
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 11:53:22 -0800 (PST)
From: j seigel <wtbstuff@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The 4 X 4 Delorean in Texas for sale on http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com
Surfing for deloreans when I came accross this ad
1981 DELOREAN, one of a kind, sits on a CHEVROLET
chassi, new transmission, recentlry overhauled, $10500
or best offer, call Tammy at 512-698-5347, needs some
work, 512-698-5347.
Contact Number: (512) 698-5347
http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com
Not my ad, There is 1 picutre of it. I know there was
some talk about the car for sale before. Just trying
to help out.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:07:35 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: poll results
Interesting. While the vast majority of these items are not available, two
that came out near the top, S/S frames and remote door openers (to use the
proper generic name) have been marketed for years. Many of the others, like
cruise control, have been successfully adapted and enjoyed by many owners.
Most of these are achievable given enough interest and $$$$$.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 13:00:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New Stereo - No Power
My car already has an aftermarket car stereo in it, but I took it out
today (it was buggy). To get it out, I took off the center console and the
vents (later discovering that I probably could have done it with just the
vents).
Anyway, now that I've connected the 2 power wires and the ground,
this damn thing doesn't work. Does the digital clock, rheostat, and
cigarette lighter need to be plugged in for power to work for the stereo?
I just don't want to put the console back on and find out that I'm still
out of luck.
If anyone's installed a new stereo and ended up with no power, please let
me know what you did to get it working.
-Christian
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 22:55:17 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: brake runout specs
On 22-12-2001 18:14, Walter wrote:
> Question 1: What is the maximum allowable brake runout on the rotors?
> I'm almost to the point of putting the car back on the ground,
> but I've noticed that both my new rear rotors appear to have around
> 1mm wobble inside the calipers. This seems to be excessive to me,
> but I would like to know anyone else's opinion.
I've searched the WorkShop Manual, but didn't find any info.
But I happen to have the WorkShop Manual for my Escort too!
For my Escort the maximum allowable runout/wobble is 0,15mm.
An Escort doesn't have such a sophisticated brake-system,
since it's a "normal" car, not "high performance" like our DeLoreans
are supposed to be... (it only has disks on the front...
Judging by this I would guess thet 1mm is WAY too much!
Either replace your rotors, or have them turned down.
Iseached the back issues and according to a post by DMC Joe the
minimum thickness is 11,7mm if less you HAVE to replace them...
> Question 2: Will moderate rotor runout cause
> premature wear to the calipers?
I'm not sure, but my feeling says it will...
My feeling also says it could cause extra stresses on the
mountings for the caliper, which could result in having to
replace the knuckle (front) or hub carrier (rear).
I can tell you: those are EXPENSIVE parts...
And last, but certainly not least: having pulsating brakes
is not only annoying, but can be very dangerous too!
If I were you I'd certainly do something about it,
especially sinces you allready have everything apart!
Good luck and best wishes for 2002,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
------------------------------
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 23:45:46 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: VIN TAGS was Car #501 (WAS: "Black" DeLoreans)
[MODERATOR NOTE - Before things get too heated here, please remember that automobile titling and licensing laws are set at the STATE level, so it is quite possible that you are both right and wrong. There are no absolutes.]
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> ...I bought a Delorean parts car
> with one I.D. tag missing and in Connecticut it is a DOA Vehicle,as
> you must have at least two Factory VIN tags(and with the Delorean
> there are only two),so if one is missing/tampered,you have a
> problem,if both are missing/removed you have a parts car only!!!
<SNIP>
> Claude
> Vin#000570
Not true. If the VIN plates on a vehicle have been tampered with, the
DMV can give the car an assigned VIN ID.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 18:01:02 -0600
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: brake runout specs
Walt - that kind of shimmy usually indicates warped rotors
rather than a problem with the calipers.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Coe [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 10:23 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] brake runout specs
Question 1: What is the maximum allowable brake runout on the rotors? I'm
almost to the point of putting the car back on the ground, but I've noticed
that both my new rear rotors appear to have around 1mm wobble inside the
calipers. This seems to be excessive to me, but I would like to know anyone
else's opinion.
Question 2: Will moderate rotor runout cause premature wear to the calipers?
Before I took the system apart, I had an annoying amount of steering wheel
shake as I applied the brakes.
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 00:02:49 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Heat Stove Function.
Well, you learn something new everyday! (sorry about the reply time,
but my work has kept me quite busy lately).
On a seperate note, does anyone have any specs/sources for these cats?
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxx> wrote:
> While I usually agree with things that Robert posts, I
> must take some exception to the turbo comments.
> First, the Turbo Manifold Twin Turbo kit DOES come
> with twin cats! Second, on my first D, I passed CA
> emissions with the turbos even though I did not have
> cats on that set-up. Quite frankly, that was long ago
> (1987) and I realize the examiners have gotten a bit
> more sophisticated since then.
>
> Dick Ryan
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 00:18:49 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New Stereo - No Power
When I got my car the stock Craig unit didn't work, and the fuse in the relay compartment
was fine. The wiring diagram shows two inline fuses, one 10A for main power, and I forget
the other one, but it's on the ignition "switch" signal wire which also tells the clock
to come on - does your clock work? If it does, I'd bet on the in-line power fuse.
I asked on the DML exactly where to find these fuses and they're behind the stereo,
accessible from the passenger footwell (thanks to whoever told me!). Check both. (it's
tough to tell them apart when "down there" anyway!)
Mine was the 10A fuse that'd blown. I'll bet you've popped yours when you first powered
up after moving things around. Fuses are like that sometimes.
Martin
#1458
Christian Williams wrote:
> My car already has an aftermarket car stereo in it, but I took it out
> today (it was buggy). To get it out, I took off the center console and the
> vents (later discovering that I probably could have done it with just the
> vents).
>
> Anyway, now that I've connected the 2 power wires and the ground,
> this damn thing doesn't work. Does the digital clock, rheostat, and
> cigarette lighter need to be plugged in for power to work for the stereo?
> I just don't want to put the console back on and find out that I'm still
> out of luck.
>
> If anyone's installed a new stereo and ended up with no power, please let
> me know what you did to get it working.
>
> -Christian
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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 19:36:45 EST
From: P12C16@xxxxxxx
Subject: new delorean poster
Hey there group,
After christmas I plan on going to kinkos and having them blow me up a
delorean picture to frame in a poster frame. The problem is that I need a
really cool delorean shot in a high res image to minimize blurring when
enlarged. Does anyone have a really cool picture of their car in a large
size that they would like to send me? Feel free to send any images you have
to P12C16@xxxxxxxx
Happy Holidays to all!
Patrick
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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 17:07:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Horseman of PA <the_horseman_pa@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The 4 X 4 Delorean in Texas for sale
is it just me or do I feel really upset over a
DeLorean looking like this? This is just my opinion,
this is just something that really offends me. a shame
to see what some people will do to a classic one of a
kind beautiful and priceless dream.
Wayne
--- j seigel <wtbstuff@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Surfing for deloreans when I came accross this ad
> 1981 DELOREAN, one of a kind, sits on a CHEVROLET
> chassi, new transmission, recentlry overhauled,
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 03:01:34 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The 4 X 4 Delorean in Texas for sale
It's probably just you. DeLoreans are NOT one-of-a kind, they are one
of about 8500 (or of 9500, depending on who you talk to...)
Priceless?? Take a look at http://www.dmcnews.com/BuyNSell/dmcforsale.html
There are lots of prices!
Dave
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, Horseman of PA <the_horseman_pa@xxxx> wrote:
> is it just me or do I feel really upset over a
> DeLorean looking like this? This is just my opinion,
> this is just something that really offends me. a shame
> to see what some people will do to a classic one of a
> kind beautiful and priceless dream.
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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 22:12:03 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: New Stereo - No Power
hey christian,
when i put my alpine cd player in, for some reason every time i turned the
car off it would reset my settings even though i had it wired correctly
according to the ASI stereo wiring sticker and the shop manual. i couldn't
figure it out so i just said whatever, and i ran a seperate fused wire from
my battery to my stereo's +12V constant wire, and i tapped into my ignition
wire under the steering column for my ignition power. no more problems, and
i knew it was done right without any loose connections. this is probably
your best bet.
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 03:25:42 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: parking brake dragging too much?
Walt - Sorry ... I assumed that several people would chime in with
all kinds of good advice. That word "assume" can get us in trouble
sometimes. In addition to your discovery of how the parking brake
works, you may want to keep an eye on the little brass spring that is
used to keep the pads retracted. It looks like a little wide-spread
fork. I have seen many cracked and completely broken. When this
happens, the pad rides on the rotor until it's gone, and then the e-
brake caliper begins to wear on the rotor (personal experience). The
spring is common to Jaguar ... part number 9750.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> For those of you who care to know, I posted some questions earlier,
but no one answered them. Since then I have figured out the answer
for myself.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 23:12:37 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: New Stereo - No Power
Christian,
Per the diagram, the Purple wire coming off #17 fuse loops to the radio, so
in other words the wire is in parallel not in series so if all the other
things didn't work, the power on this wire will still operate the radio. This
wire will be hot all the time unless there is a break from the source. The
hot wire feeding power to #17 fuse is brown. Check the ground on the radio.
The other LGW color wire going to the radio from the #11 fuse gets it power
from the other side of the #11, a white blue wire coming from the accessory
relay and the key must be turned on and the relay energized before power will
appear on this wire. If it were hot all the time, the radio wouldn't shut off.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/modification.shtml
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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 04:33:05 -0000
From: "carnut4849" <gmfm1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fan Zilla
Hi Willie,
First , make sure the fans go on with the old relays in place
when you turn the AC on and with the AC off and the temperature going
up to around that 220 mark. Before you put the Zilla unit back in,
check both fuses to make sure that they are OK. With the Zilla in,
when you turn the AC on, the compressor engages and then one of the
fans and then the other fan. There is only seconds between these
things happening. If the fans don't come on shortly after the AC is
turned on, I would pull it and call Rob. I put mine in and it worked
fine from the getgo. Good luck,
Happy Holidays,
Gary Masie
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
>
>
> Hey Folks
> I just picked up a Fan Zilla from PJ Grady. I installed it, and
nothing
> happened
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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 05:09:09 -0000
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Old magazine
Group, I put a picture of the cover of a September, 1977 magazine on
the front page of my web site. The caption reads:
A hot new Corvette Competitor The Delorean DMC-12.
I just hope they wern't talking about power. Does anyone have any
older magazines. In this article they were talking about the
different motors to use. Good article now looking back.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 05:16:29 -0000
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Comments posted
Has any body noticed that 8253 comments were posted last year and so
far this year we have had 8036 posted. Not much time left to even up,
but I think that this shows the world that there is a lot going on
with Deloreans. Not just another car to sit around and grow old.
Never to late to own a Classic car.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
Merry Christmas Everyone.
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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 06:42:12 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The 4 X 4 Delorean in Texas for sale
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Horseman of PA <the_horseman_pa@xxxx> wrote:
> is it just me or do I feel really upset over a
> DeLorean looking like this? This is just my opinion,
> this is just something that really offends me. a shame
> to see what some people will do to a classic one of a
> kind beautiful and priceless dream.
Horseman,
Don't feel to upset,Chances are it most likely had a rotted/bad
frame,so rather than put it to pasture,it was converted into that 4x4
monster Thing.One good thing he(or she) most likely saved it from
meeting a worse fate.(becoming a parts car)
Claude
000570
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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 01:48:08 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: brake runout specs
I just got my car back on the road today. Yippee! Anyway about the rotor
run-out, what I was seeing when I spin the rear rotors is that they wobble
laterally by about 1mm, and the parallelism is uniform. The only way to see
this is with the rear wheels off, and you need these on to hold the rotor
evenly in place. So I bolted an aftermarket wheel spacer to the hub and
torqued it all down to 60 ft-lbs. This didn't change anything, and I tried
it on both sides. There is a chance that perhaps both 'axles' (if you can
call them that) are bent, but I don't think this is likely. When I put the
rotors on the hubs, I made sure everything was completely clean. This rules
out the possibility that an uneven layer of rust on the hub could make the
rotor seat unevenly. The next thing I'm going to do is measure the rotors
using a micrometer-caliper to measure the run-out relative to the inside of
the brake caliper. I can see how a problem with parallelism will cause
brake pulsation, but only a problem with run-out would just oscillate the
pistons back & forth. I suppose this could still be felt as a pulsation,
but on my 30 mile test drive today everything was nice and smooth.
Some observations: The brakes feel like they need more pressure than normal
to stop the car. I assume this is due to the fact that they still need to
go through a break-in period. I put PowerStop cross-drilled brake rotors on
the front. I would have done all 4 with these, but they were discontinued.
I can tell you that the cross-drilled ones are noisy. I don't consider it
objectionable, but it is there if you listen for it. I describe the noise
as kind of a cross between sand paper and the hydraulic door sound dubbed in
BTTF. It kind of gives my brakes a high-tech sound. Now that I know what
to listen for, I can even hear the noise very slightly pulsating even when
I'm not applying the brakes. The pulsation part comes from the new rotors
not being perfectly flat. I'm going to measure the run-out on those too and
keep track of them as a function of mileage. I'm going to have to convert
David T's specs to metric before I can understand them (yep, I hate the old
system! I can't even put those numbers into perspective without
converting.) The specs that Jan gave don't make much sense either. You are
only supposed to use commas every three digits, so 0,15mm makes no sense.
Do you mean 0.15mm? I think I have a lot more run-out than that. I'll get
back later with some real numbers once I get the car up on jacks again.
Walt Tampa, FL
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