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There are 15 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Was Re: Accumalator now Inertia switch
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Accumalator
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Supercharger retrofit
From: mrvideosawyer@xxxxxxxxxxxx
4. Removing front fascia
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Air Intake Cleaning Leaks
From: "dsscid" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Current Projects
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Supercharger retrofit
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Air Intake Cleaning Leaks
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Removing front fascia
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re:Current Projects (and out of stock items)
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
11. Re:out of stock items
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. DOC Site Update
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. DeLorean in Kit Car Mag
From: "Sean Howley" <delorsche@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: Supercharger retrofit
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
15. Re: Removing front fascia
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 14:18:31 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Was Re: Accumalator now Inertia switch
jtrealtywebspannet wrote:
> The inertia switch was located by the lambda counter on the early
> cars. In a recall it was relocated to the area by the bonnet release
> because it was being hit by the driver's feet and being tripped
> inadvertantly. There was also a recall involving replacing "defective"
> or overly sensitive inertia switches. If your switch doesn't have a
> white splotch of paint on it then it may not have been replaced.
I'll be checking this today. Mine is a May 81 so is very likely to have it in the
original position (though I don't remember seeing it), and I have spent some time "down
there"! If it IS there, it's unlikely to have had the recall - no other recalls have been
performed on my car with the exception of the door guides. I like the "originality" of my
car. It's one of the things that attracted me to it.
> I
> have also seen where the switches were bypassed. This may be the case
> in your car where not only was it bypassed but also removed. I
> strongly recomend having a working inertia switch because not only
> will it shut off the fuel pump in the event of a serious accident,
> it's other purpose is to unlock the doors. This is important because
> the driver may panic and not unlock the doors before trying to open
> them or (worst case) if the driver is unconcious it allows rescuers to
> remove the occupants quickly and without having to damage the car
> further. Of course this assumes that the central locking system is
> functional. The Delorean venders all carry the "improved" inertia
> switch and can help you with the install.
I'm actually working on my central locking module today, and on Paul Salsbury's, whose
module doesn't work at all. Although mine's functional from the passenger lock barrel,
from the driver's inside lock rocker, it only works after the car's warmed up. I haven't
traced the cause yet, but I suspect the connection to the passenger solenoid given the
behaviour. Whatever happenns, I'm replacing the relays, caps and trannies, and installing
protection diodes. There's nothing really wrong with the module, it's just weak and has a
couple of easily rectifiable design flaws.
As to the inertia switch, I'll have a hunt for it. Wiring isn't a problem for me.
>
> The filter located in the tank is only supposed to keep the "big
> stuff" out of the pump. You really shouldn't try to filter too fine on
> the suction side of a pump. Most in-line filters are supposed to be on
> the pressure side.
I bought this one from an MG specialist down the road - it's meant for the fuel pickup. I
understand the pickup filter's only to keep out the "big stuff" but given the pump's
absolutely silent now instead of whining and rattling to the point the car would cut out,
I'm happy with it.
> If the filter inside the tank was very dirty you
> should clean out the tank and replace the filter by the rear wheel.
It's hard to say, but what with being a brand new tank, I can only assume there was some
sort of dust in it (although from new they have protection caps on all the openings).
I'll be changing the fuel filter as a matter of course in the next 500 miles.
Oh, the car suddenly regained all its power on the motorway the other night, after 90 of
a 110 mile trip. I hope it still has it - I'm off for a spin now. It's so much nicer to
drive with the new tyres! I've got Pirelli P600s on the back and P6000s on the front.
Cheers again
Martin
#1458
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 14:18:40 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Accumalator
Nobody's pointed out the more obvious reason for higher octane fuel: It has more chemical
energy. With the timing set to take advantage of this, you get more power, otherwise
you'll be exhausting burning gases.
I think there are obvious differences in the way the octane rating is expressed between
here and the US
Cheers
Martin
#1458
B Benson wrote:
> If an engine is designed to use 86 octane that's what you should use. Higher
> octane fuels are blended to combust at a slower pace while lower octane
> fuels burn much faster. This is opposite of what many may think. If you use
> the higher octane fuel the slower combustion can, over a long period of
> time, produce carbon deposits in the combustion chamber which raise the
> compression ratio. Higher compression ratios require higher octane, slower
> burning fuels. Therefore it's possible that your car can develop a
> dependency for high octane at some point. The slow burn of high octanes is
> necessary for turbo cars because the slower burn helps retard detonation
> which is when combustion takes place too early and catches the piston still
> trying to finish the compression cycle while the combustion is trying to
> drive it back down. The higher intake temperatures that come with turbo
> charging create that situation. The bottom line is you're wasting money
> using higher octane fuel if your engine wasn't designed for it.
>
> Bruce Benson
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 22:47:08 -0500
From: mrvideosawyer@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Supercharger retrofit
Group,
How come we as a group come up with a supercharger retrofit? I called Paxton today and the admitted that the basic unit was the same from car to car. What is the big deal here? If I heard these guy right it is just a matter of belts pulleys and brackets. There are so many superchargers sitting on cars in junk yards that we as a group should put our heads together and figure a way to put some punce in this engine. Toby is leaving me in the dust just because of his suspension mods (sway bar, lowered, air dam and of course TOBY BOLTS). I have called many places that build these superchargers and they all seem to think it cannot be done. I am a JUNKYARDS war kind of guy lets figure out something..
Jim Sawyer
vin 4149
Chomeillusion color purple~soft gold
--
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:26:50 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Removing front fascia
I am going to remove my front fascia soon to fix my eyebrows on my car. Is
it 100% necessary to remove the hood while doing this like the manual says?
Can I just work around it and remove teh needed screws?
Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 13:22:43 -0000
From: "dsscid" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Air Intake Cleaning Leaks
Hello,
After i got my delorean going i had to dismantle the air intake, to
clean were the throttle adjustment is to fix my sticky throttle. I
fixed the throttle, and re assmelbed everything. The car started up
but i hear this huge sucking noise from the air intake (were the air
box hooks up). Aboviously i got a vacumm leak. So i sprayed aroudn
the seals and no go, still leaking. I just ordered the o rings so i
can replace them. Do you guys have any suggestions. Also, i removed
the flaps (floats?) on the inside. The flpas have a little spring
type valve on them, can someone please verify with me were they go.
Do they point to the front of the car, or the back. And are they on
the top or bottom. Thanks alot for your help.
- Shain
#10140
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 06:01:07 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Current Projects
Hello List - I thought that a quick update of current design projects
was in order. The new Trailing Arm Bolts (TOBY-TAB's) are in
production, and should be ready for shipping in the very near
future. I will provide details regarding ordering, etc. as soon as
possible following receipt of the bolts from California. I have
obtained a complete selection of sample suspension bushings (stock
rubber) and have shipped them to a company that manufactures urethane
bushings for a wide variety of applications. The engineering
department there is anxious to see if they can provide the DeLorean
community with these ultra-performance parts at a competitive price.
The samples included the trailing arm bushing that the TAB attaches
to. This should be interesting. I have talked to the engineering
people at an aerospace manufacturing company about the torsion bar
issue. We have come up with some possible strategies for development
of a replacement torsion bar using more state-of-the-art materials.
I am also talking on Monday with an engineering rep from another
aerospace company based on the East coast about a possible bolt-on
upgrade for the front lower control arm attachment, to provide a
triangulated structural arrangement for that joint. This will help
stabilize the front suspension geometry. That's all for now. I'll
be in touch as these projects begin to bear fruit.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1 - Still flying the colors!
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 13:37:33 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Supercharger retrofit
mrvideosawyer
A supercharger kid was in the work a few years ago. It worked fairly well. Contact Glen. He did Jason's car.
B0B
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 22:44:09 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Air Intake Cleaning Leaks
With the air box removed and the engine running OF COURSE YOU WILL
HEAR A LOUD SUCKING OF AIR!!!. This is normal, it is the air going
into the air mixture unit. As long as you are looking around make sure
that the plug is still in the metering unit over the mixture screw.
You can also check, with the engine off, that the sensor plate is
centered and not rubbing the sides, the three brass screws are LIGHTLY
seated closed, and the throttle returns all the way to idle without
sticking.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dsscid" <shain@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> After i got my delorean going i had to dismantle the air intake, to
> clean were the throttle adjustment is to fix my sticky throttle. I
> fixed the throttle, and re assmelbed everything. The car started up
> but i hear this huge sucking noise from the air intake (were the air
> box hooks up). Aboviously i got a vacumm leak. So i sprayed aroudn
> the seals and no go, still leaking. I just ordered the o rings so
i
> can replace them. Do you guys have any suggestions. Also, i
removed
> the flaps (floats?) on the inside. The flpas have a little spring
> type valve on them, can someone please verify with me were they go.
> Do they point to the front of the car, or the back. And are they on
> the top or bottom. Thanks alot for your help.
>
> - Shain
> #10140
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 17:44:39 -0800
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Removing front fascia
Kevin,
You really can't get to the screws right under the front lip of the hood
without removing it.
Bill Lane
#3635
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 17:49:28 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re:Current Projects (and out of stock items)
In a message dated 12/15/01 1:56:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> I have obtained a complete selection of sample suspension bushings
>
Speaking of parts no longer available, the rear trailing arm bushing (that
the TAB goes through,) is still available as NOS, but is trickling down to a
low level, I understand. Two more parts that are fully depleted and
unavailable are the grommet that the gas intake hose passes through in the
fuel tank baffle, and the manifold heat stove. You can operate just fine
without either, which is why no one is scrambling to come up with
replacements.
Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group
vin 11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 00:30:07 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:out of stock items
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, deloreanernst@xxxx wrote:
>
> Speaking of parts no longer available, . . . .and the manifold heat
stove.
> Wayne A. Ernst
Not so fast. Take a look at http://www.pearce-design.com/heatstove.html
I've seen it - very nice part.
Dave
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 02:32:25 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DOC Site Update
Hi All,
I've added more photos of #1458 and #2727 plus Paul Salsbury's been busy
with his camera too. I've also linked to a great resource on the K-Jet
system and UK residents might be interested in a couple of new
number-plate related links
Best Wishes
Martin
#1458
www.delorean.co.uk
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 21:34:47 -0500
From: "Sean Howley" <delorsche@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean in Kit Car Mag
I was reading through my Kit Car Illustrated magazine today (Dec. 2001 Issue) and on the last page (page 82), there is a quick mention of our car. It is in the "A Look Back" at their magazine from '83. They were talking about special/unusual cars that were being manufactured at that time - mostly specialized cars/kit cars. But in the middle of a listing of these different cars, the following was written:
"the over-hyped DeLorean DMC-12-a 2,800-pound, stainless steel-bodied 130hp gullwing car that ended its run in 1982, with 4,243 cars finished, and sold throughout 1983 for a hefty $30,000 apiece (discounted at the end to $14,000-$18,000)"
It is a short blurb, but a blurb none-the-less.
Sean Howley
VIN#2345
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 22:03:07 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Supercharger retrofit
Jim, and Group, What I'm running into in the Dallas area with junkyards is if
the foreign car is over 10 years old they don't buy it, it goes to the
crusher. They say real-estate is to expensive to have 20 year old cars. I
have to find specific places to investigate some parts. I also saw some
Paxton on some cars. But. I have to many other things going on to work on a
charger. What I saw was in rusted condition.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 03:59:50 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Removing front fascia
The front fascia can be repaired without removing it or the hood.
Remove the headlights and epoxy a THIN piece of alluminum to the
underside. There isn't much room so the aluminum must be thin but it
will work. You might want to use a heat gun or hairdryer on it first
to flatten it out and make it soft. After epoxying in the aluminum use
plenty of clamps.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> I am going to remove my front fascia soon to fix my eyebrows on my
car. Is
> it 100% necessary to remove the hood while doing this like the
manual says?
> Can I just work around it and remove teh needed screws?
>
> Kevin Abato
> Vin# 16680
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