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There are 11 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Fuel Pump
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
2. Powder Coating?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: #7 fuse
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Jump starting
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
5. RE: galvanizing D frame?
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp@xxxxxxxxxx>
6. Jumping the RPM relay
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
7. Re: Jumping the RPM relay
From: "chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: galvanizing D frame?
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
9. Convex mirror update: First prototypes made today!
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
10. AngleDrive Gears
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Ground and Mystery Wire
From: "J Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 00:04:57 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
Jason, When you turn on the key on you might hear the fuel pump run for a
second or two, then when you start the car, the RPM relay gets a signal from
the coil/inpulse coil which closes the contacts on the rpm relay to power the
fuel pump. If the relay is closing but the fuel pump isn't running, then the
contacts may need cleaning or something else may be wrong with the RPM relay.
You can see the inside contacts on the web site, under Talk & View.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 06:29:59 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Powder Coating?
Nick,
Where did you get your frame powder coated. How much did it cost. What
material and process was used. Does this process coat the internal
cavities. How is the frame prepped.
Tell us all about it please.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: njp548@xxxxxxx [mailto:njp548@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 8:38 PM
<< How tough would a Powder Coating be under normal driving conditions? >>
I just had my whole frame powdercoated, and I can say that it came out
great!
I did think about having the frame galvanized before powdercoating, to
protect the frame from rust even more, but with all the talk about it
possibly warping under the high heat, turned me away from it. Definitely
NOT
worth the risk. Hope that helps.
Later,
Nick
1852
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 07:17:55 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: #7 fuse
This was an engineering oversight. The wiring size leading to fuse # 7 is incorrect, this causes an excessive amount of heat that will cause a fuse and fuse holder with dirty or corroded contacts to overheat & melt. If the fuse and socket are in good condition regular cleaning will prevent damage. Damaged fuse holders need to be bypassed with a heavy duty in-line replacement.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
----- Original Message -----
From: scottymckenzie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 1:33 PM
Subject: [DML] #7 fuse
Why does this fuse go bad?
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 07:33:57 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Jump starting
The main reason for the warning to connect the positive lead first is to prevent a spark at the battery vents causing a possible battery explosion [MOD NOTE assuming you make the negative connection to somewhere other than the battery] As we all know this is not a problem in the DeLorean because the jump start post is isolated from the battery.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
----- Original Message -----
From: David Swingle
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Jump starting
I've got to jump in on this one. I can't understand what electrical
engineering principle could possibly impact the requirement to
connect the positive or the negative first, with respect to inrush
surges as the connection is made. It's a single circuit. Current flow
and resulting voltage sags/surges take a complete circuit, and will
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 07:43:50 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: galvanizing D frame?
When I refinished my frame, I did not have it galvanized for two reasons:
1) The fear of frame warp
2) The need to clean out the holes and threads.
I had it powder coated and it looks great. The first coat was a zinc rich
epoxy rust inhibiting coat and the second was the color coat.
Powder coating is tough and durable. You can powder coat springs and it
will not flake off (supposedly). There are two kinds of powder coat, one is
UV stabilized and one is not. IMHO, it is the best alternative to frame
restoration.
Nick Kemp
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 14:31:21 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Jumping the RPM relay
With all the talk of jumping the RPM relay, I want to add something
to it. If I'm wrong on this someone correct me.
When you jump the RPM relay and the engine is not running, if the
injectors are still in the heads (pointing into the cylinders) aren't
you dumping raw fuel into the engines cylinder?? If the pump is
running then it is building up pressure and opening the injectors to
spray.
If this is the case then not only are you going to flood the engine
but you are "washing out" the cylinders which is very bad. It will
wash out any lubricant (engine oil) that has coated the cylinder
walls for protection.
If I'm not wrong about this then I think the safest bet for anyone
that wants to troubleshoot their fuel problem and needs to jump the
RPM relay is to remove the injectors and place them in suitable
containers...like a glass jar or something.
Steve
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 19:41:45 +0100
From: "chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Jumping the RPM relay
Steve
No. The injectors only open when the air flow sensor is pulled or pushed
down. If fuel is coming out of the injectors when the air flow sensor is
shut then either the CO screw is way out of adjustment, and the car probably
would not run, or an injector is leaking and therefore should be replaced.
If you have jumped the RPM relay the system will still be under pressure for
an hour or so after, and pushing down the air flow sensor will dump fuel
into the head.
As a matter of course when I have had any of the fuel system off I jump the
RPM relay so the system is under pressure and I can then check for any leaks
before i start the car.
In the UK it is starting to get hard to get Bosch injectors now and the fuel
pump has been superseded but the new version is thinner and longer so is no
good, but there is a another Bosch pump very similar. I assume the vendors
have a good supply of injectors?
regards
Chris
Vin 16327
> With all the talk of jumping the RPM relay, I want to add something
> to it. If I'm wrong on this someone correct me.
>
> When you jump the RPM relay and the engine is not running, if the
> injectors are still in the heads (pointing into the cylinders) aren't
> you dumping raw fuel into the engines cylinder?? If the pump is
> running then it is building up pressure and opening the injectors to
> spray.
>
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 18:10:37 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: galvanizing D frame?
The next best thing is using POR-15 on the frame (that's what I
used). It's a lot cheaper and you can do it yourself.
I first prepped the sand blasted (bare metal) frame with POR-15's
metal ready. It neutralizes rust and leaves a zinc rich coating on
it. I next painted the frame with the POR-15. I have to tell you that
this stuff is incredible. I applied 3 coats of it. There were a few
small "buckles" on the crumple tubes that I missed before I painted
it. I took a hammer and started banging them out. Now I thought to
myself that if the paint flaked off from all the hammering I would
just repaint it. To my surprise....It did not crack or flake off! I
thought maybe it had pulled away from the metal so I took a small
screw driver and tapped around the hammered area to see if I could
hear any air pockets (where the paint would have pulled
away...nothing!
The POR-15 is very thin...like water...but thickens as it dries so
you can spray it. I have seen some special sprayers on JCWhitneys
site that have a long tube with different tips that can be attached
to it (depending how you want it to spray. It's a sprayer that is
meant for "channels" and hard to reach areas when painting. POR-15
claims that if any part of the paint gets damaged that only the metal
that is exposed will rust...it won't travel under the paint.
My chassis has been painted with this stuff since the winter and it
has been exposed to the elements (car is outside covered) and not one
flake/rust spot yet. It's been real humid here with a lot of rain too.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Nick Kemp" <nkemp@xxxx> wrote:
> When I refinished my frame, I did not have it galvanized for two
reasons:
> 1) The fear of frame warp
> 2) The need to clean out the holes and threads.
>
> I had it powder coated and it looks great. The first coat was a
zinc rich
> epoxy rust inhibiting coat and the second was the color coat.
>
> Powder coating is tough and durable. You can powder coat springs
and it
> will not flake off (supposedly). There are two kinds of powder
coat, one is
> UV stabilized and one is not. IMHO, it is the best alternative to
frame
> restoration.
>
> Nick Kemp
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 14:43:41 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Convex mirror update: First prototypes made today!
I have the first DeLorean with a convex side mirror. Kewl!
I went to a large stain glass shop in town with 3 large convex truck mirrors
in hand. I traced a pattern on the glass with a magic marker, and an
employee of the shop cut them out by hand with a hand-held etching diamond
cutter. He broke one of the three. The corners didn't cut very well, so
he rounded them off on a router with a wet diamond bit. The blade was too
coarse and chipped the edges too much. He seemed in a hurry and acted sort
of spastic, but he is very talented to do what he did. He then tried pieces
of mirror on various wet diamond blade band saws. The saw that did the best
job (as good as a factory OEM mirror) used a very fine blade. If he used
that saw to begin with, he wouldn't have broke one of the mirrors.
So now what I have is two half-way decent convex mirrors. Both have up to
1.5mm chips around the perimeter in spots. These mirrors are not good
enough to sell, but make a good prototype for the next batch.
How does it look on the car? Fantastic! I can actually see the horizon AND
the curb in one glance. It makes parking the car a lot easier. One thing
that I didn't expect to see is that the outer 1/2" of the mirror is pretty
useless because it shows a reflection of the mirror housing. The housing in
that corner is pretty deep. The fact of the matter is that the shape of the
housing is not the best to hold a convex mirror. If I trimmed some of the
corner bead off of the housing, it could be an improvement but probably
totally screw it up too. Perhaps the '82 version of the housing wouldn't
have this problem. Another option is to modify the swinging part of the
housing so that it locks in a more outward position. That is probably a
better option, but it isn't really necessary. The convex mirror as it is
now is a vast improvement over the OEM flat one.
I'll be going back to the shop in a couple of days with another handful of
truck mirrors and this time cut them out myself on the finest wet diamond sa
w. If the guy only slowed down and took his time and tried it the hard way
first then I would have left there with three perfect mirrors.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 22:20:26 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: AngleDrive Gears
Hello everyone,
I'm confused; Today I took apart my old (broken) Angle Drive to see how it was
constructed. I was curious, since I thought it used a wormgear, driving a drum
gear, but that kind of construction is impossible to use "backwards"; driving
the output and spinning the input like this...
I also wanted to see if I could use the recepticle for the output cable (lower
speedo cable) for fixing my adapter cup, since I forgot to order one and thought
I might be able to glue the recepticle in place in stead.
I allways understood that the AngleDrive used plastic gears and they were the
main reason for failure, the HardCore Drives fom PJ Grady have SS gears and on
top of that should have a detachable drive cable (the short bit going through
the axle) if I understand their website correct.
When we opened up my drive I was surprised to see there were METAL gears in
there, the little cable however was pressed into place. The recepticle for the
cable was also made of metal, probably hardened steel: it fractured when we were
trying to modify it and hardened steel doesn bend, but breaks...
I also found the reason my drive failed: on the lower gear (the output) a piece
of one of the splines had broken off, causing the unit to jam. Since the wheel
keeps spinning when you drive the cable through the axle had been twisted to
bits and since this cable was pressed in there was no way of repairing this
without getting a new drive.
Unfortunately I wasn't able to get a HardCore AngleDrive, since PJ Grady
absolutely needs a core and mine had been destroyed by one of the previous
owners (remember http://www.vdwouw.demon.nl/epoxydrive.jpg ?). They were
absolutely great on helping me anyway, but their suggestion would have taken too
lang, which would have meant I would have to put my car in storage untill I got
the drive, since my annual inspection was due and without it I am not allowed to
drive the car. Too bad, so I went with an OEM, lubed it really well, got the
wheatherproofing kit and installed a new cable support bracket.
Hopefully this will keep up for a reasonable period of time, at least I know now
that when it does fail on me again I WILL have a good rebuildable core...
Anyway, to get to my initial question: are the gears in the Angle Drive plastic
or not?
Thanks,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 03:35:55 -0500
From: "J Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ground and Mystery Wire
Thanks for the response to my last question but now I have two more.
1. I think I have a problem with the ground wire that is under the coolant bottle.
Where in the world does the other end go? I pretty much lose it after it goes into
the firewall. How do you replace it since I don't know where the other end is. It may
be obvious and easy once I figure out the other end part.
2. The mystery wire. It is a baby blue with a yellow stripe on it. It's in the bundle of
wires that go to the starter. I can't trace it real good since it's wrapped in a large bundle.
I just know it's not connected to the starter. What does this one go to?
Thanks to all who respond...................Jason # 5903
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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