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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: D Wanted
From: "Christopher M. Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Delorean fires...
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Delorean fire
From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
4. Continuous Idle
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Shimmy in Tires
From: DLoff80@xxxxxxx
6. Re:Delorean fires...
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Steering geometry
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Shimmy in Tires
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Re: vents only- no heater, defroster
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Door lock module (was Steering Wheel recovering)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Re: vents only- no heater, defroster
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Welcoming myself to the group
From: "Tyler Graves" <graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Shimmy in Tires
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Shimmy in Tires
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. sparkplugs
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. DeLorean Calender
From: Jack Janney <fastride@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. DeLorean ground effects kit
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
18. door guides
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
19. ADMIN: eGroups/Yahoo update
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. door switches/wires
From: "World Traveller" <eurojet@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Fans, doors, and lights (oh, my!)
From: Noah <sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. RE: Welcoming myself to the group- The DeLorean Owners Directory
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
23. New Subject
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: door switches/wires
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: sparkplugs
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 23:12:17 -0000
From: "Christopher M. Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: D Wanted
Paul!!!!
Contact Dave Howarth on the www.delorean.co.uk contacts page. He has a list
of all UK cars for sale. His ex-Duran Duran DMC-12 is in this month's
Classic Cars magazine!!!
Good luck!!
Christopher Hawes
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 4:52 PM
Subject: [DML] D Wanted
Does anybody know where there is a Delorean for sale in the UK. I am now in
the position to purchase my first but don't know where to start looking. I
live in Northern Ireland, but would be willing to travel to GB to purchase.
Cheers
Paul
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 19:41:51 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Delorean fires...
Hello List,
About 3 years ago I saw a DeLorean in the newspaper that was in the
crashed section. I called on it and they wanted $8500 for it. I drove an
hour away to see it and it had a pretty bad dash fire. It looked like it
started near the blower motor under the glovebox. The interior was pretty
much done but the outside was perfect. I was in the area a few weeks later
and it was gone. The guy said they picked it up down south at an auction.
It was at Cooks salvage yard in Harrison Michigan, does anyone know where it
went? it would have been a very good project car.
Later!
David
#2496-still not on the road
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 20:01:43 EST
From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Delorean fire
In a message dated 12/11/00 10:47:41 AM Central Standard Time, Wayne writes:
> I'm wondering if a non-blowing fuse continued to allow a short to glow red
> hot until the surrounding area ignited or if a split second spark threw a
> red
> hot ember that smouldered then ignited. The reason I ask... if the first
> supposition is correct, then immediately pulling over and killing the
> battery
> power could possibly stop a fire from breaking out. Anyone else have
> thoughts on this?
>
>
For what it is worth: Most modern General Aviation airplanes have resettable
cirquit breakers, but most pre-80's have fuses. In ALL G/A airplanes the
standard drill in case of a suspected electrical fires is to IMMEDIATELY
turn the master switch off. (This does not effect the engine since the
ignition, etc., are generated by magnetos, two per engine.) Since you can not
just pull over and park an airplane, the procedure is then to pull all
breakers or fuses and wait to see if the smoking stops. Including a douse
with a fire extinguisher if necessary. Then turn the master switch on again,
wait to see if the fire flares up again and if not, reset the fuses/breakers
that are absolutely necessary for landing, one at a time, and land the
airplane ASAP. A fire extinguisher in the cockpit is mandatory.
Yes, it is possible that a fire could be snipped in the bud IF power is
disconnected very quickly.
Engine fire in an airplane on the ground and a car is an entirely different
matter, but even there a quick dousing with en extinguisher may save the
vehicle.
A fire close to the gas tank? Run like your life depended on it! It does!
Roger
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 19:58:22 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Continuous Idle
Hello List,
I have a question about the idle-speed system on the DeLorean. when I
turn my key to the run position I can hear the idle speed motor running.
When I start car it idles great and when I remove the connector to the idle
speed motor nothing happens at all and it continues to idle fine. I thought
the car would die when the idle speed motor stopped. I checked the
connection where the air pipe connects to the intake body and it is fully
seated and not leaking. The Idlespeed ECU has been tested in another car and
it is working fine. The 3 screws on the intake are all fully seated. I had
the vacuum lines replaced by a non DMC shop, maybe they adjusted something
when putting everything back together. any ideas on what it could be?
continuous
Thanks For your time
David
#2496-
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 20:15:16 EST
From: DLoff80@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Shimmy in Tires
Well, I would have to ask Does this happen after or beyond certain speeds?
Because if so, you may want to get your tires balanced. Sometimes if they are
improperly balanced, you will get a shimmy or vibration while driving.
Dave Loffler
Johnston, RI
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 20:53:14 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:Delorean fires...
Wayne,
In the situation of a poor electrical connection, a fuse failing to blow has
little to do with a fire starting. To illustrate this, consider the car's
cigarette lighter. It gets hot enough to start a fire! And it does this
without blowing any fuses either. This is because of a 'poor connection.'
The coil wire that glows red hot is a nickel/chromium alloy which is a poor
conductor electricity, but it can withstand high temperatures without
melting.
A loose wire covered with flammable insulation is a similar story. When a
connector on one end develops a poor connection, it heats up just like the
cigarette lighter. But since the wire isn't made to withstand that kind of
heat, things tend to melt or catch fire. All this can happen without
drawing enough current to blow a fuse.
I think the wiring associated with the Delorean headlight switch is a bad
design. They use a relay to bypass the high current going to the headlights
around the headlight switch, but they neglect to do this with the current
going to the side marker lights. Granted, the side marker lights do not
draw as much current as the headlights, yet it is still too much for the
switch to reliably handle. When the switch corrodes or wears enough to
develop a poor connection, you will be able to light a cigarette off of it
without blowing a fuse. It is no wonder that headlight switches on some
older GM cars are made of porcelain.
If and when I catch up on other projects on my Delorean, I'm going to add a
relay for this circuit too.
Walt Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
>I'm wondering if a non-blowing fuse continued to allow a short to glow red
>hot until the surrounding area ignited or if a split second spark threw a
red
>hot ember that smouldered then ignited
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 20:53:18 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Steering geometry
Chris,
The problem you are describing sounds like 'under steering' and is not
related to wheel alignment.
I suggest doing two tests:
1) Buy a tire tread depth gauge (they are cheap) and keep track of how your
tries wear as a function of mileage. I try to do this with every oil change
on all of my vehicles. Make a ledger to keep track of all 4 tires, and keep
three average measurements from each tire: the inside most tread, the center
tread and the outer tread. This will help you to keep track of uneven tire
wear which may be caused by alignment problems or from incorrect tire
pressures.
2) Perform a poor man's wheel alignment comparison. On a stock Delorean,
the only wheel alignment adjustments possible (for both front and rear) are
toe-in adjustment. And since the toe-in for the front and rear is the same
(rear tires are aprox. 3" larger in outer diameter, so 3mm toe-in over a 1½"
longer radius is not significant in this situation) then do the following:
Try to position the steering wheel in such a manner that the front wheels
are pointing straight ahead. Have a friend (or a fish hook) hold one end of
a piece of string against the back of the rear wheel. You hold the other
end and squat down by the front of the front wheel. Pull the string tight
making sure that it is parallel to (and not bending around or leaning away
from the front of) the rear tire. This establishes a line which should be
parallel with the front wheel assuming that your tire's side walls are true.
Use a ruler to measure the distance from both the front and rear of the
front tire (or rim) to the string. In a perfect world these distances
should be equal, but write them down. Then do the same procedure for the
other side of the car and do some math. If your measurements for the other
side are different but opposite to the first side, then your front wheels
are accordingly not pointed straight ahead but otherwise aligned with the
rear wheels. On each side, subtract the rear measurement from the front and
then total the results from both sides. You should get zero. Keep in mind
that if the rear wheels had a toe-in adjustment of zero instead of 3mm, then
a 3mm toe-in for the front wheel would give a 6mm difference from front to
rear as toe-in is measured as a radius.
For example: On my car as it sits in my garage at this moment I get the
following measurements:
For driver's side:
28mm inset for front of left front rim
33mm inset for rear of left front rim
subtract rear from front and I get
-5mm
The negative number means that the front of the tire is steering left.
For passenger's side:
43mm inset for front of right rim
36mm inset for rear of right rim
subtract rear from front and I get
+7mm
This result is positive on the passenger side because the front of the tire
is also steering to the left, but the measurements were taken from the other
side of the wheel.
Add the differences (-5mm) + (+7mm) = 2mm
This 2mm is a diameter measurement since I found it by measuring from the
front AND rear of the rim rather than from the front and center of the rim.
To turn it into a true toe-in measurement, divide by 2.
2mm / 2 = 1mm
So my front end has a total of 1mm more toe-in than the rear wheels. This
is 0.5mm more toe-in per wheel than the rear wheels. I would get a better
measurement if I took them from the tire tread instead of the rim, but
measuring from the rim is easier in this case. Assuming that my rear wheels
are correctly aligned when it left the factory and it wasn't messed up
since, my front end is slightly out of alignment. But since I did this
alignment myself based on how it 'looked' without taking any measurements at
all and going by if the car pulled too far one direction or the other, I
think I did a good job. Before I started, the front of the right wheel was
visibly sticking out about 1/2 inch farther than the left and both of my
front tires were already balled from such a poor alignment. I didn't notice
this when I bought the car, and before I drove it home the tires looked
fine. By the time I got the car home driving a few hundred miles, the
damage was already done. When I finally get my new aftermarket rims on the
car with a pair of new lower control arms, then I will take my alignment
more seriously. Apparently my alignment got so far off from a previous
owner having the car towed by the lower control arms. I can see where the
guy put his hooks on them and bent them!
Walt Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris C <petleech@xxxxxxx>
>we notice that in a parking lot at full lock,
>the tires seem to scuff, and looking at the tires the tread is rough,
>confirming this. Is this an anomaly of the design and normal for
>these cars or should I conclude that the alignment was incorrectly
>done?
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 21:04:12 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Shimmy in Tires
Dan,
For your first question, tell us if the car only does this while using the
brakes or if it does this all the time.
To answer your second question, the Delorean suspension is fairly unique.
The only car similar to it is the Lotus, and those are fairly unique too --
not many of them around. Your chances of going 'just any place' to find
someone with experience on these cars is rare.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 20:14:28 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: vents only- no heater, defroster
While I've been waiting for the moderators to post my other questions, I've
done some more investigating. I don't think this info will help any, but
here it is:
If I disconnect the vent valve in the dash it still does not kick over to
heater or defrost. However, if I disconnect the vent valve I can push the
linkage up for the defrost and force air out the windshield defrost vents.
But, like I said, it does not really help any. Because, why isn't the vacuum
switching? The switch or the other possible melted vacuum valve in the
engine compartment?
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 21:30:49 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Door lock module (was Steering Wheel recovering)
I agree with David Teitlebaum concerning the Lockzilla, and I would like to
add the following:
What happens with the OEM lock module is it sends current to the lock
solenoids until they move. If they fail to move, then they burn up trying.
The Lockzilla instead gives the solenoids a 'one shot' -- meaning that it
sends them current for a moment. If they fail to move, then it quits. This
is good. What isn't good is that the Lockzilla doesn't warn you if a door
fails to lock thus creating a security problem although the OEM lock module
and almost all other makes of cars out there also share this problem. A
better designed module would give a beep or some other indication in this
situation.
Another short coming of the Lockzilla is that it will stop operating if the
door locks get out of synchronization. For example, you lock your doors,
but the solenoid on one side is sluggish and fails to lock the door. An
attempt to unlock the door using the Lockzilla optional remote keyless entry
will fail until both door locks are returned to the same state by using the
door key. However, if you never install the optional remote keyless entry,
then this won't be a problem.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 21:23:58 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: vents only- no heater, defroster
> Check all your vacum lines especially to the one that is going to the
> black valve that is in the engine compartment (P/N 100763, you can go
> to www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewDir.asp?PageID=82&PageCat=7%2DHeating%
> 2C+Ventilation+and+A%2FC to check it out). This is the hot water
> valve. If there is no vacum to it, it's likely not opening up and
> alowing the hot antifreeze to go to your heater core to give you
> heat. The controls to switch from vents to to heater to defrost are
> also controlled by vacum. Make sure you have no vacum leaks, listen
> for any hissing sounds from the engine compartment and the dash areas.
>
Sorry to ramble and post so spuriosly tonight....
I am starting to suspect the switch like DMC Joe suggested- but am chicken
to pull the dash completely apart and start jumpering connections on the
switch to see if I can make it change.
I was looking at one vacuum valve that had some hard melted plastic on it,
but I think that was for something else. From the rear of the car it was
located to the left of the distributer. Is the valve I'm looking for to the
right? And does it sit on a 3/4 inch (or 1 inch) hose that looks like it
might run under the car towards the front?
AND- my most important question- should I be able to see any movement or
change if the heat/AC switch is moved from MAX to DEF? (because I see
none...). I have good vacuum all over the dash (except I couldn't check the
defrost hose exactly), and I did have some hissing when I pulled the line
off this last valve. It didn't sound real strong, but I had the engine off
while I was leaning all the way into it.
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 04:01:34 -0000
From: "Tyler Graves" <graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Welcoming myself to the group
Hello List!
At first I joined the list to scope out the DeLorean scene, and after
some time I realized that I should buy one. Searching through EBay, I
was able to find what looked like the perfect D for me. Turns out
that it was Mike Babb's beauty. If any of you have seen Mike's site,
or spoken to him, then you know it would be hard to resist buying
from such a great guy. He certainly treated his D with care. Now that
it has changed hands, I hope to do the same.
Now, on to my first question...
There has been quite a bit of talk about frame rust. That seems to be
something that a newbie to the group like me should ask about. Where
exactly should I look for frame rust? Where are the hot spots for
rust? I've looked around on the frame and have noticed only a little
epoxy flaking and slight rusting of the front frame part just behind
the fan area. The area might be about 4 inches by 1/2 inch. What
should I do about this? Is there a way to test for rust spreading
along the frame under the epoxy?
Thanks a bunch for such a great resource!
-Tyler
vin #3472
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 04:33:51 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Shimmy in Tires
A shimmy is a condition where the sterring wheel has a shake side to
side and can be very pronounced at a certain speeds yet seem to
disappear at others. It is generaly caused by a bad tire or an out of
balance condition. The first thing to do is to take off the front
wheels and run your hand over the inside and outside sidewalls. Feel
for lumps, bumps, and bulges. This could be a sign of the layers
delaminating. Next feel the tread, it should be smooth, not bumpy.
Remove any stones or glass or metal. Look the tire over for anything
that doesn't look right. Check the surface on the rim and the surface
on the rotor for any dirt or rust that would prevent the rim from
seating properly. Remount the wheel on the car alternating the
torque. Check for "runout" that is the rim should rotate without
moving in and out. If these things do not help then have the tires
balanced in a dynamic balancing machine. Static balancing is not
accurate enough for modern cars. Also check for looseness in the
steering, there should be no play in the tie rod ends. Any looseness
will exaggerate an out of balance condition. A shaking in your "gut"
when driving is usually caused by an out of balance condition in the
rear and generally peaks at a particular road speed. Again check the
tires for delaminations and the rim for runout. Sometimes wheel
weights do fall off so it could just be an out of balance problem.
Whenever you have a tire repaired it should be rebalanced. Sometimes
the only way to definitively isolate a problem is to substitute a
known good tire and see if the problem goes away. Always keep the
right air pressures in your tires, it is the single most important
owner maintaince procedure followed by checking the motor oil and
anti-freeze. Try to find the local shop that does police cars or
ambulances. It should be a modern machine used by someone who has
been
doing alignments for some time and knows the machine and how to use
it.It must be a "4" wheel machine because they must measure the
"thrust angle" or the alignment of the rear tires. You may have to
provide them with the specs, not all machines have Deloreans in their
database but just about all machines can have special cars added
manually.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, dandollars@xxxx wrote:
> Hello,
> I own VIN 6391 and I have the shimmy in the wheel but no alignment
problem.
> Dos this relate to the posting in DML 325? And can I take the
delorean in to
> just any place that aligns and get someone who knows what they are
doing?
> Dan
> 6391
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 04:38:58 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Shimmy in Tires
One thing I forgot, at low speeds (5-10mph) most radial tires have a
"waddle" or shake. This is normal, when we talk about shimmy we
generaly mean speeds above 20 mph and going straight on a smooth level
road.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, dandollars@xxxx wrote:
> Hello,
> I own VIN 6391 and I have the shimmy in the wheel but no alignment
problem.
> Dos this relate to the posting in DML 325? And can I take the
delorean in to
> just any place that aligns and get someone who knows what they are
doing?
> Dan
> 6391
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 23:17:02 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: sparkplugs
One last question for the evening:
What kind of sparkplugs are preferred?
Brand, type (forked tip, platinum....)
And is it worth getting the micro-washers/shims to get the spark lined the "right" direction for the extra burn?
And what is the "right" direction?
Thanks... I'm going to bed now and look forward to answers and flames in the mornining. :)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 22:12:46 -0700
From: Jack Janney <fastride@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Calender
I saw an ad a while back for Mike and Debbie Sturba (www.mydelorean.com) selling a small 2001 DeLorean calender. They adverised the calender for $12.49 (9.99 + 2.50 shipping). And they promised to include a keychain. I figured I'd give it a try - hey, I can blow that much on lunch.
Well, the calender and keychain came on Friday. I was pleasantly surprised with them. The Delorean photo is mounted on magnetic card stock so you can stick it up on the front of your refrigerator (like I've done) or the side of your system furniture at work. Each month includes 3 or 4 key dates pertaining to DeLoreans or Back to the Future. Fun trivia to try out on your spouse (honey, wake up). And, it makes a great stocking stuffer.
Jack Janney
#10901
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 01:05:36 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean ground effects kit
Hello all,
a search through the DML archives has turned up with almost nothing on
this....
i have been wondering for quite some time what the deal with the DeLorean
ground effects is. were these ever a factory option? i'm guessing no. then
how did they come about? i have seen photos of very attractive looking
ground effects with the same DeLorean font as the rear bumper.
what is the story behind these? are they still available? if so, how much are
they?
also - if anyone out there has any horror stories relating to the
installation or use of them, i'd like to hear about it. oh yeah - if anyone
has any photos of D's with ground effects, please email me the link. i know
i saw one on ebay this fall with them and it looked AWESOME...
thanks!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 03:53:07 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: door guides
In a message dated 12/11/00 5:48:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< The problem was that some early DeLoreans never got the door guide update.
With no door guides, or improperly installed door guides, a DeLorean door
can jam closed. >>
I've never been stuck in my '82, but it doesn't have the big bulging door
guides either. Don't '82s have them? I just have a flat expanse of sheet
metal with the notch for the lock post.
-Wayne
11174
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 16:19:59 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ADMIN: eGroups/Yahoo update
I received the following note within the last 2 days. Some of you may
or may not have, it depends on your subscription. I thought it a good
idea to post it here so that you would be informed if something
suddenly changes.
It sounds like you may have to "do nothing", but based on our
previous experience with Major Software Upgrades I've got my fingers
crossed.
Dave Swingle
===================================================================
Dear eGroups Member,
We have exciting news to share with you. We want you to be among the
first to know that eGroups and Yahoo! Clubs will be merging. The new
service will be called Yahoo! Groups. We expect the service to launch
early in the new year.
WHAT'S HAPPENING WITH EGROUPS?
Don't worry, all eGroups email and web addresses will continue to
work, all data and event ownership will be maintained, and your
entire group membership will carry over.
Everything you love about eGroups will still be around. Yahoo! Groups
will continue to be a free service, and all the main features you use
now will continue to be a part of the new Groups service. We'll begin
to internationalize Yahoo! Groups after we've launched the service in
the United States. In the interim, you will be able to use the
international versions of eGroups.
WHAT'S NEW?
Yahoo! Groups will have lots of new features and even better
customization. Upon launch, you will be able to:
* Chat with other group members using our improved Yahoo! Chat.
* Add a splash of color to your group, or a main page photo, all
without knowing HTML.
* See when group members are online and communicate with them in real
time using Yahoo! Messenger.
* Reach a larger audience. You will have the entire Yahoo! Network at
your doorstep.
And much, much more to come!
The best part -- you won't have to do anything to convert your group.
This will happen automatically. All you have to do to access the
wide array of web functionality is merge your current eGroups
account with a Yahoo! ID when the new service launches. You don't
need to do anything now and there will be a very easy-to-use wizard
to help you do this when the time comes. NOTE: email-only users will
not need a Yahoo ID.
For a detailed FAQ on merger topics, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/info
On behalf of everyone here at Yahoo Groups, thanks for being a member
of our service.
Sincerely,
The Yahoo! Groups team
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 19:27:58 -0000
From: "World Traveller" <eurojet@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: door switches/wires
Before the last car show I disconnected all of the wires for the
courtesy lights/key buzzer located just behind where the door closes,
you know the ones. Anyway, I want to reconnect them but I don't know
which tabs they go back to. I have three wires and tabs on the
driver's door and two on the passenger door. Is there an easy way
besides process of elimination here? Which tabs do what as you're
looking at them from top to bottom? Thanks, Fil.
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 14:54:24 -0500 (EST)
From: Noah <sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fans, doors, and lights (oh, my!)
Hiya!
OK, so I've got a trio of problems, all electrical.
1) My cooling fans are flipping on and off every few seconds (5-30, at a
guess). I can hear (and feel it if I'm driving). Additionally, they came
on immediately today, during the first start in 3 days.
2) My 'lock doors' dash light is flipping on and off every few minutes
2a) In a possibly related situation (I dunno, 'cause I am /so/ learning as
I go here.) either door can, by key or from inside the car, lock both
doors. But neither door (using key or lock inside) will unlock the other,
only itself.
3) My cabin lights don't come on when the doors open, however, they do
respond to being turned on manually (but then don't we all. Ba-dum bum.)
The 'door open/ajar/whatever' light comes on on the dash, as do the marker
lights and the engine/luggage compartment lamps. Based on the circuit
diagram I have, this points to either interior lamp delay unit or the
interior lamp diode. I have removed and reseated the former, noting no
corrosion or other random ickiness. How do I test the delay unit? Once I
figure out how to get to the diode, how do I test that? Or is there
something else I should be looking for?
The fan fail module does not exist; I have a factory (or, at the
very least, a factory-style) bypass. Lockzilla has not been
installed. Just as an extra data point, the fans are not flipping on and
off at the same time the 'lock doors' light does. (Yes, I know they're on
seperate circuits, but I figured I'd toss it out there anyway.)
Pointers in the correct direction are appreciated. Methods of testing
potentially faulty components (and what results would constitute 'good' or
'bad') are appreciated. Hell, anything short of a kick in the head is
greatly appreciated. :)
Thanks muchly.
noah
VIN #2867
"I discovered my wife in bed with another man and
I was crushed. So I said "Get off of me you two."
-- Emo Phillips
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 15:08:29 -0800
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Welcoming myself to the group- The DeLorean Owners Directory
This is a good opportunity to remind everyone that when you buy a DeLorean
or are involved in one changing hands you should send your new or updated
information to the DeLorean Owners Directory. The 'DOD' is available on the
DMCnews website at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/directory.html
You have to be in the Directory in order to qualify to receive a copy. To
check this, read and follow the instructions on the web page. The listing
contains everyone who has submitted their information prior to 9/18/2000.
The next version should be made available in late January. So far I have
about 65 updates since August, I hope to get that to over 100 before doing a
new Directory.
If you have any questions, contact me at:
The DeLorean Owners Directory is a helpful listing for every owner to help
find other owners in their area, where ever in the world they may be.
Please note. If you've posted your info to the DOD in the last few months I
will have it in the next issue. There is no need to post it again unless
something has changed.
The DeLorean Owners Directory is a very dynamic publication. Thanks to
everyone for your input!
=======================================================
Ken Montgomery Sacramento, CA VIN #10911 'OUTTIME'
http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean/delorean01.htm
mailto:kenm@xxxxxxxx
Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
http://ndcmc.org
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com mailto:directory@xxxxxxxxxxx
=======================================================
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tyler Graves [mailto:graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 8:02 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Welcoming myself to the group
>
>
> Hello List!
>
> At first I joined the list to scope out the DeLorean scene, and after
> some time I realized that I should buy one. Searching through EBay, I
> was able to find what looked like the perfect D for me. Turns out
> that it was Mike Babb's beauty. If any of you have seen Mike's site,
> or spoken to him, then you know it would be hard to resist buying
> from such a great guy. He certainly treated his D with care. Now that
> it has changed hands, I hope to do the same.
>
<<Snip>>
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 15:54:43 -0800
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New Subject
New Question (for me)
The DeLorean has very little in the way of sound proofing. Has anyone done
much in this area or is there a kit on the market to efficiently address
this issue? There are a lot of excellent products out there that don't show
up in J C Whitney. Also the heat load could be lessened by puting something
in the upper door/roof panel.
Thanks in advance for any insight in this area.
Don
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 18:08:47 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: door switches/wires
you have a buzzer? When did buzzers start, or is there a problem with mine?
----- Original Message -----
From: "World Traveller" <eurojet@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 1:27 PM
Subject: [DML] door switches/wires
> Before the last car show I disconnected all of the wires for the
> courtesy lights/key buzzer located just behind where the door closes,
> you know the ones. Anyway, I want to reconnect them but I don't know
> which tabs they go back to. I have three wires and tabs on the
> driver's door and two on the passenger door. Is there an easy way
> besides process of elimination here? Which tabs do what as you're
> looking at them from top to bottom? Thanks, Fil.
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 00:29:13 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: sparkplugs
I've talked to 4 seperate Volvo mechanics, and all reccomended the
BOSCH copper sparkplugs. All said the same thing that while the PRV-6
was an extremly reliable engine, it was VERY finicky about what
sparkplugs to use in it. Right now I have the BOSCH Platinum plugs in
my D, and I can tell you that it ran MUCH better with the 20 year old
copper ones it had. The platinums are fouled much easier because they
have alot less of the electrode exposed. At first there was a
noticeable inprovement with accelleration, but that wore off after
about a month. From what I was told, BOSCH doesn't even reccomend the
new Platinum +4 sparkplugs for the PRV-6 engine. As I've found with
swapping out certain components on my car, it's better to just stick
with what the manufacturer intended.
-Robert
vin 6585 (The DeLorean from hell.)
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> One last question for the evening:
> What kind of sparkplugs are preferred?
> Brand, type (forked tip, platinum....)
>
> And is it worth getting the micro-washers/shims to get the spark
lined the "right" direction for the extra burn?
> And what is the "right" direction?
>
> Thanks... I'm going to bed now and look forward to answers and
flames in the mornining. :)
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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