Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 12 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: need frequency valve help
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: New Delorean Movies??
From: yoda soda <yoda_witha_soda@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: need frequency valve help
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Door open light
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: need frequency valve help
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Dash Mat
From: dmcdelorean2@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Re: Door open light
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Dash Mat
From: "Robert Bell" <elduke@xxxxxxx>
9. DMC12 Wanted
From: "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99@xxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: need frequency valve help
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Dash Mat
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
12. Fall Foliage Tour info
From: ladeluca@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 01:24:57 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: need frequency valve help
Robert, thank you very much for your help! :)
To Robert & everyone else:
Is the frequency valve supposed to buzz when the ignition is switched on?
Or does it only buzz while the engine is running?
I hear a loud buzzing sound, but it's not coming from the frequency valve,
it's coming from the idle speed regulator. Is this thing supposed to buzz
loudly when the ignition is switched on, but the engine hasn't been started
yet?
As for my frequency valve, it is totally silent. When I originally checked
the electrical connection, I found that everything was corroded inside. I
took the connector apart, cleaned both the plug and the socket with steel
wool and then thoroughly cleaned out the steel wool fibers. But that didn't
change anything. It is still silent.
It appears that I have a bad Lambda ECU module. Is there anything else I
should check before I buy a new one?
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 09:44:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: yoda soda <yoda_witha_soda@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New Delorean Movies??
the movies are at www.deloreantime.com in the
interview section
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
http://im.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 17:50:27 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: need frequency valve help
You need to check all of the inputs to the lambda module.The temp
switch, the lambda relay, the oxygen sensor,etc. In my case it was a
bad lambda relay, the module has a low failure rate. It could even be
as simple as a fuse or as we saw in Richmond one car had a bad
frequency valve.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Robert, thank you very much for your help! :)
>
> To Robert & everyone else:
>
> Is the frequency valve supposed to buzz when the ignition is
switched on?
> Or does it only buzz while the engine is running?
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 14:59:22 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door open light
> Suddenly, I now have a door open light even though the doors are
> closed.
I'll trade you - my door light never goes on.
-Hank #1619
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 19:45:45 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: need frequency valve help
If you need to replace the plug for the frequency valve, then you can
cut off the plug from a Volvo from a junkyard and use it. If I
remember correctly the frequency valve is only supposed to buzz when
the engine is running. I'm at work right now, so I don't have my
manuals with me. But check the power supply to the LAMBDA module (I
think there's 2). I could be that somewhere down the line power is
either not making it to the module itself, or perhaps the LAMBDA
relay, or even something else. I don't get home untill late this
evening, but I'll take a look at the wiring diagram to see if I can
find out some points for you to check. Off hand the only thing I can
think of would be to remove the LAMBDA relay (top row, 2nd from the
right) and check that all contacts are clean, and that the female
contacts in the socket are at the top are making contact. Also check
the RPM relay as well and do the same for it.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Robert, thank you very much for your help! :)
>
> To Robert & everyone else:
>
> Is the frequency valve supposed to buzz when the ignition is
switched on?
> Or does it only buzz while the engine is running?
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 18:19:51 EDT
From: dmcdelorean2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Dash Mat
Anyone know where to get one that fits?
Chris
11388
Rahway, NJ
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 14:24:00 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Door open light
Scot,
Considering all the electrical systems in the DeLorean is one of the most
complex. The courtesy light circuit contains 6 switches, 11 lamps, 1 relay,
4 diodes, and 2 fuses and almost two dozen connections. The warning lamp
should only illuminate if one of the two door light switches is open or the
fuse is open or removed. Your problem indicates either a defective delay
lamp module or diode.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Scot Stern <SGSKBM@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 8:36 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Door open light
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Scot Stern" <SGSKBM@xxxx> wrote:
> > Suddenly, I now have a door open light even though the doors are
> > closed. I disconnected all of the wires from the switchs on the
> left
> > side and still the light. I tried the same on the right side and
> > still the light.
> >
> > Are there any other switches that effect this light? It is dimmer
> > than when the door is open, but still bright enough to be clearly
> > seen. If you open a door when it is on it will get brighter.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 19:57:57 -0500
From: "Robert Bell" <elduke@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dash Mat
Dashmat.com, pretty good mat for a decent price.
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmcdelorean2@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 5:19 PM
Subject: [DML] Dash Mat
> Anyone know where to get one that fits?
>
> Chris
> 11388
> Rahway, NJ
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 22:25:12 -0400
From: "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC12 Wanted
Hello all,
I am again looking for a Delorean. If anyone can help please contact me. I
am not looking for a cheap Delorean just a daily driver that is dependable
and affordable. Here is what I would like:
Any year
5 speed
Grey interior
no to minor frame corrosion
anything under 80 thousand miles
average cosmetics(a dent or a scratch is no problem)
average interior(a dash crack or sagging headliner is no problem)
good mechanics and electrical(would help if all updates are done)
Price Range:12000 or under
Joel
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 02:25:20 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: need frequency valve help
Walter, This is the second try to get this to you thru the Group.
Others that don't know about how the circut works may want to know
also. ( No tools required ). Checking the Lambda. DMCJOE said a while
back that in all his years of working on De Loreans he has only had
one that he could remember bad unit. I have been sent 3 to check out
so far and none were bad. ( If it's bad i can repair it.)
Maby the FQV is working all the time and that's why you can't tell
when it's not working. ( I tell by listening and by feel ) I have
done this forever with most of the older cars. They will tell you by
listening what's wrong. There are three things that operate the
Lambda unit. #1: Oxygen sensor. #2.Thermal Switch. #3.Full throttle
switch.
First thing to do heat the car up to normal operating temp. Then
reach under the throttle cover ( Black ) if you have one and press in
the full throttle switch. Lean over and listen for the FQV to buzz if
it isn't already. If you hear it buzz for a second or two then the
Lambda unit is getting power and the 02 sensor and thermal switch are
not stuck closed. 02 sensor ( Very important ) if contaminted due to
chemical additives, bad gas or just old, it could keep the FQV
operating all the time also. Unplug it and listen to the FQV. Then
check the thermal switch. When the car is cold, the Lambda unit sends
out a signal to the FQV to run untill the 02 sensor can heat up and
start adjusting the air/gas ratio. I change 02 sensors on all my cars
by what the book say. 30,000 mi on unheated and 60,000 to 100,000 on
heated.All this is provided there is no contamination.
Hope this helps
John Hervey
w--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I've had an on-going cold acceleration problem in my Delorean and
haven't
> had much luck getting advice on how to fix it. Maybe someone on
this list
> can help?
>
> So far I have tried unplugging the electrical connection to my
frequency
> valve, and it makes absolutely no difference to how the engine runs.
>
> The engine coughs, sputters, pops, and runs rough until it
completely warms
> up. When I force the engine to run richer by pulling a vacuum on
the
> delayed side of the control pressure regulator, then the engine
runs fine!
> I have checked the fuel pressures and they are within specs.
>
> My question to the group is: How can I tell if my frequency valve
is
> working? I've tried unplugging it and this makes no difference.
I've tried
> unplugging the Lambda ECU and this makes no difference either.
I've put a
> volt meter across the wires going to the frequency valve and measure
> nothing. I realize that a volt meter is probably the wrong tool
for this,
> but I don't have access to an oscilloscope. Is there some other
diagnostic
> tool that is appropriate here? I could check for flow with a fuel
pressure
> gauge, but I hate to take those connections apart if I don't need
to. I do
> get continuity through the coil, but that won't help if nothing is
going to
> it.
>
> For those of you who like to read, here is an earlier message I
wrote to the
> DML that never got posted. It explains more of my symptoms:
>
> What can cause a Delorean to hesitate during acceleration, but
forcing the
> control pressure regulator to make it run richer cures the
problem? I've
> checked the fuel pressures, and they are all normal. I get primary
pressure
> of 5.1 bar. The control pressure regulator gives 2.9 bar with cold
engine,
> 3.7 bar with fully warmed up engine.
>
> Pulling a vacuum on the delay side of the control pressure
regulator drops
> the fuel pressure under 2 bar and cures all my problems. But, the
fuel
> pressure isn't supposed to be that low. So is this compensating
for some
> other problem? And if so, what is it?
>
> At idle, my vacuum reading is 15 inHg, but it jitters +/- 2.5
inHg. Is this
> normal? My vacuum at 2000 rpm is 17 inHg and smoothes out. Is
this a
> symptom of a stuck valve or is this normal?
>
> This problem has been intermittent in the past and would only
happen to a
> cold engine. Now it happens all the time, and it doesn't really
matter if
> the engine is cold any more. Now even after the engine is warmed
up, I get
> hesitation, coughing, sputtering and even backfiring.
>
> When I start the engine, it tends to stall. Any pressure on the
accelerator
> makes the engine hesitate, cough, sputter and pop. When I release
the
> accelerator, the engine speed actually picks up for an instant and
then
> drops back to a rough idle. This keeps up until the engine is
hot. Before
> I drive the car, I have to let it warm up for at least 5 minutes.
After the
> engine is fully warmed up and I turn it off and let it sit for 30
minutes, I
> have to let it warm up all over again before I can drive it.
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 02:34:50 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dash Mat
Chris, I used a dash mat for a while and it turned the dash a brown
color. I Had to mix up two products to undo the damage, got it back
to about 90% of the original color. Get really hot under there.
John
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, dmcdelorean2@xxxx wrote:
> Anyone know where to get one that fits?
>
> Chris
> 11388
> Rahway, NJ
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 03:00:59 -0000
From: ladeluca@xxxxxxx
Subject: Fall Foliage Tour info
I'm thinking I will abandon the Palisades Mall as a meeting point
because I don't know if there is enough interest.
I expected about 12 people to use this location but I am having
trouble coordinating everyone.
Because I have less then 48 hours to make the final arrangements for
the Fall Foliage Tour ( I will be traveling on business) I will Just
say for those who want to caravan I will be at the Darien Rest stop
on I-95 in CT between exit 12&13 on Friday Oct 20th about 12:00 and
hope to depart by 12:15 anyone who wants to meet me there should let
me know. I'm somewhat flexible on the time if a few of you what to
meet me there.
I still think the Palisades Mall by the Tappan Zee Bridge is a good
meeting place, people departing from there at 11:30 am Friday Oct
20th should end up at the rest stop in Darien CT at the same time as
me and others who will be meeting me there. I will be stopping in Old
Mystic CT (by the Aquarium) right off I-95
I will be in the office the next two days so if you have questions or
comments please contact me soon ! By day you can use the
mdeluca@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx until Tuesday afternoon or this e-mail in the
evening ladeluca@xxxxxxx
If you have FM two way radios I suggest you bring them, they are
great in a caravan, I use channel 12 BTW (as in DMC12).
Note: Many people will only be attending part of the Tour so if you
can make it to Newport Rhode Island on Easton Beach around
1:30 in the afternoon everyone is welcome and it's free!
There will be a Bricklin or Two also.
For more info about the Fall Foliage Tour go to
http://hometown.aol.com/delorean31/fall.html or
http://homestead.juno.com/tristatedocs/FallFoliageTour.html
Regards,
Michael DeLuca
Vin 3113
NY Lic DLORIANN
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN