Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: ADMIN:DMC2 [Long]
From: afprep88@xxxxxxx
2. Re: ADMIN:Poll result/DMC2
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
3. BTTF & THE WATCH!!
From: "Thomas B" <tjb229@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Hazard Lights
From: CIAsleeper22@xxxxxxx
5. RE: Digital Dashboard - Delorean had a prototype
From: "Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Struts
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Front cooling fans...
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
8. Re: CD Changer
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
9. Seat Backs
From: "William H. Swilley" <billswilley@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Front cooling fans...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: CD Changer
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
12. Fuel sending unit
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Crome Powder Coated Wheels
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
14. sneaking in a second radio bay
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. DMC stud size and continuing voltage problem
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: sneaking in a second radio bay
From: CIAsleeper22@xxxxxxx
17. Re: DeLorean Dakota Digital Dash
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: sneaking in a second radio bay
From: comet6974@xxxxxxxx
19. Door Handles from Hell!
From: Greg Linstad <gregl@xxxxxxxxxx>
20. Clean as a whistle again!!
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
21. Re: sneaking in a second radio bay
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
22. Fuel sending unit / digital dash
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
23. Sacramento auction-/-NCDMC
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
24. Re: DeLorean Dakota Digital Dash
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Fuel sending unit / digital dash
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 20:14:59 EDT
From: afprep88@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: ADMIN:DMC2 [Long]
The question may be "should we post discussions about DeLorean's proposed new
car and the DMC2 watch"?
For as long as i've been a member of the DML I have enjoyed information
about the car and services and mods...and i've also read articles on DeLorean
Shirts and DeLorean mousepads. The moderators of this list filter what they
feel in "unneccesary" or "personal". Many of my beliefs have been filtered
because they are considered "controversial".
Isn't John Delorean more controversial than anything i can say? How can
his endevours be discarded? The whole plan is to spread interest about the
new DeLorean. DeLorean is a business man and relizes that the second time
around may be much harder, mainly due to his tarnished rep. Many of you feel
that the watch is "too expensive". This isn't to make DeLorean on par with
Rolex, it's his attempt to put him on par with Porsche. Some people that
want to invest in the car have the money to but this watch, and that is what
it is for.
The cost of producing a new car is rated in hundreds of millions of
dollars. How can this amount be reached without attempts to raise money, as
in buying the watch.
As for the car, why can't we talk about it? It is an important part to
Delorean, even though, our James Espey, feels that it is speculation. Would
the 1st DMC-12 ever have been built if it wasn't for speculation? We have
facts from the JZD and even an interview (www.deloreantime.com). It may be 5
more years before (and if) we see a new DeLorean (if he continues that long).
Shouldn't we keep the dream alive???
My 10 cents worth,
Christopher Miller
(vin#- eventually, hopefully a DMC2)
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:18:58 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ADMIN:Poll result/DMC2
This is not in defense of the moderators it is my opinion on how I feel about news concerning the NEW DeLorean. The original DMC-12 project started in 1974, Giorgetto Giugiaro was already under contract to handle the design of the DMC-12. By mid 75 detailed drawings and a styling mock-up were completed and the first prototype was begun. By early 76 negations with potential subcontractors was already begun and the automotive press began speculative publications.
Since the DMC2 project was first mentioned I have yet to see any of the above developments. I applaud JZD and everyone who is interested in this speculative project but until concrete documented developments concerning the new project are fact I believe that the DML should continue its job of providing valuable information to owners and enthusiasts of the stainless steel gull-wing car that has become such an important part of all of our lives.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: David B. Hill
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 8:07 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] ADMIN:Poll result/DMC2
James & Dave:
How can you say the list is for discussion of "the man" and exclude any
discussion of the new car. Just because the car is speculative, that
shouldn't preclude discussion. You allow speculative discussion of many
other products, like accessories, motors, etc. I would say the discussion of
the Northstar fell into this "speculative" category, but that was
interesting and informative. Same for digital dashboard. As a long-time
reader, I think that if moderators are patient (instead of dictatorial), the
"stupid" postings (watches, etc) will decline, but still some new car
nuggets will be added to the list. I found the mentions of the GQ article,
for example, interesting to me as a DMC owner and list member, but evidently
you would not allow that posting. I am a Republican in politics, but a
little "d" democrat when it comes to free speech. Let's have a little of
that here. My practical suggestion would be for moderators to "moderate" the
watch discussion, but to allow the new car stuff to pass through their iron
fingers.
David Hill
VIN 5197
-----Original Message-----
From: James Espey [mailto:james@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 9:58 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] ADMIN:Poll result/DMC2
Hear, hear!
As founder of the DML, moderator emeritus, and the original "Iron
Hand", I agree with Dave Swingle. The list was started for discussion
of the original car, company and man - not watches, or any new cars
JZD may claim to be producing. That's a perfect subject for some
energetic person to do with a DIFFERENT Egroups list.
James Espey
Moderator Emeritus
DMC-News, the DeLorean Mailing List
At 10:27 PM -0500 9/19/00, Dave Swingle wrote:
>So far that's about all there is to know, again until something of
substance
>comes along let's keep the list to the facts - and the cars. . So - Short
>answer - we'll limit postings on this topic to new information. If you
don't
>like this, feel free to start another list.
>
>Dave - getting better at this "Iron Hand" thing. . . . .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 04:35:01 -0000
From: "Thomas B" <tjb229@xxxxxxx>
Subject: BTTF & THE WATCH!!
Hey I was just thinking about something that I thought the group
might be interested in.
In "Back to the Future" the time machine was built out of a Delorean.
And now a Delorean's (JZD) new product is literally a "Time Machine" -
The DMC2 watch.
Does anyone else think that this is an interesting connection? Or am
I just reading too much into this?
-Tom
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 00:43:50 EDT
From: CIAsleeper22@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Hazard Lights
I recently fixed this problem on my headlight switch by taking off the
control panel face and realigning the switch. It took about five minutes and
was all to simple. I reccomend giving that a try before you do anything.
Justin
5172
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 01:22:18 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Digital Dashboard - Delorean had a prototype
With the talk on Instrumentation, I have uploaded 2 pictures from Stainless
Steel Illusion that feature the instrumentation that was used (and not used)
in the prototype. The 2 pics are at
http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/Prototype_Instrumentation/
Michael Babb
-----Original Message-----
From: heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 6:26 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Digital Dashboard - Delorean had a prototype
One quick note about the digital dashboard... in the early Delorean
"documentary" that was being sold by the Room 501 folks, there was a
very quick shot of a prototype Delorean dashboard that looked quite
like an analog/digital hybrid.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 01:48:35 EDT
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Struts
The engine cover has no struts but the louvers do and Strong-arm #4423 worked
for me.
Ralph,
VIN 1606
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 06:18:08 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Front cooling fans...
Nathan,
The voltage to operate the fans comes from the main relay, then goes to the
fan relay, then goes to the fan fail module.
The normal fix:
#1. Replace the fan circut breaker with a 40 amp.
#2. Replace the fan fail module with a jumper.
#3. Replace the fan relay with The Fan Fix.
As long as the otterstat is switching ok then the above would ( fix ) the fan
problem.
You can see all the parts and prices on my web site www.specialTauto.com.
John
11004
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 06:32:15 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: CD Changer
Tom,
Even though the power to operate the unit is not very much. Other compoents
on the De Lorean are already strained enough. I would take the power direct
from the battery and use a inline fuse. You can ground to the black ground
wire that is connected to the lambda unit, upper left hand corner of the
unit. It's that aluminum box behind the driver seat in the compartment. You
can see the ground wire from above by removing the carpeted board. If you
have a top post battery, you can buy a marine battery connector which has a
wing nut. You can see on my web site www.specialTauto.com.
John
11004
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 11:58:12 GMT
From: "William H. Swilley" <billswilley@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Seat Backs
In my case, replacing the two screws at the bottom with slightly larger,
longer ones did the trick.
Bill Swilley
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
http://profiles.msn.com.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 08:21:48 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front cooling fans...
> Nathan,
>
> What is plugged into your blue fan-fail relay socket? For a map of the
> electrical compartment click here:
> http://store.yahoo.com/dsvstore/electrical.html
>
> "We're here to help you"
>
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Nathan E. Green <gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 6:34 PM
> Subject: [DML] Front cooling fans...
>
>
> > Hi all,
> > I have a problem with my front fans. The first time around...they
would
> > come on for about 30 seconds..then shut off. Then briefly come on and
shut
> > off. Talked to Don Steeger...sounded like a circuit breaker problem.So,
I
> > temporarily connected them straight together. Ran fine like it was
> supposed
> > to for a day. Now the fans sometimes turn on, but mostly refuse to turn
on
> > at all. Once they are running, however, everything appears to be fine.
> > I.E.--I ran them for about 5min and they didn't shut off.
> > I measured the voltage with the "hot" brown/orange wire at the fan
> > circuit breaker. When they switch is ON and the fans are supposed to
work
> > the voltage reads zero. In the rare situation the fans do work the
voltage
> > reads ~12. So, this means it probably is NOT a grounding problem since I
> am
> > not getting power.(For this test I grounded it to the battery neg
> terminal)
> > So, is this a relay problem? Can someone out there help me with the
> > schematics. I.E.--The fan power comes from the battery, thru the relays
> and
> > THEN to the circuit breaker, right??
> > Help.
> >
> > Nathan E. Green
> > gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > "If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're gonna'
> see
> > some serious s--t"
> > -Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"
> > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 08:22:21 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: CD Changer
> Tom,
>
> The suggestion you received yesterday from another list member suggesting
a
> connection to the door lock module is correct. Even though your lock
module
> is disconnected you should still have power at the circuit breaker. For
> added protection you should add an in-line fuse between the CD changer and
> circuit breaker.
>
> The nearest ground connection is located at the top of the Lambda ECU.
> Remove the cover for the electrical compartment behind the drivers seat
and
> you will find the ECU and its separate ground wire located directly above
> the storage compartment.
>
> "We're here to help you"
>
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: DMC News list <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 8:09 PM
> Subject: [DML] CD Changer
>
>
> > I got my changer today and I do need to run a power and ground. I am
> > installing it in the storage compartment behind the drivers seat. All
> > the cords run well into the area where the computer module is. Can you
> > simply attach the power and ground to the battery terminals? I'm not to
> > confident with an exact place to grab the power from nor where to attach
> > the ground with all the plastic underbody there, where is there a place
> > for actual ground?
> >
> > I suppose I could splice into the power line going to the radio? (there
> > is a built in fuse) since it is always live would this be a good idea?
> > or should I tap into the fuse box somehow? The power wire is long
> > enough to make it to the front of the car but the ground wire is shorter
> > so I will have to find something in the rear deck area to ground it to.
> >
> > I did get a suggestion to tap into the door lock power but mine are
> > disabled at the moment. Any advise would be appreciated
> >
> > Tom
> > #05732
> >
> >
> >
> > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:07:30 -0400
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel sending unit
Has anyone come up with the values between empty and full for our fuel
sending unit in ohms? I am hoping our unit is compatible with the digital
dash project. Please email me if you have these values. I've been
searching the site and archives and have had no luck.
Thanks,
Matthew
VIN #10365
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 14:49:39 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Crome Powder Coated Wheels
Bill,
Can you tell us how durable the powder coat is? The finish on my OEM
rims has some damage where a previous owner sprayed them with tire cleaner.
I also have some corrosion around the lug nuts where moisture is getting
under the paint.
Do you know if the powder coat is resistant to the effects of tire cleaner?
And do you know how well the powder coat sticks? i.e., will it flake off
and allow moisture to corrode under there and flake more powder coat off?
I think that Rustoleum quick-dry silver would hold up better than the OEM
paint. I remember reading an original Delorean window sticker. It was
actually bragging about the epoxy coat used on the frame. I think Rustoleum
quick-dry silver would work better than that epoxy too!
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 15:20:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: sneaking in a second radio bay
The other day I went to Fry's Electronics and saw a new "car
theatre" system. There's 2 units, each the size of a standard car CD
player. The first unit is a CD/DVD player, and the second unit has a
screen that slides out and into viewing position. These 2 units together
also work as a GPS navigation system that will show you maps on the screen
and read you directions.
The DeLorean of course only has 1 bay available for a stereo, with the AC
controls below and the vents above. So here's my thought. I could probably
take the vents out, and close the air flow from behind and install the
screen unit there. I presume that behind the passenger's knee pad, the air
duct continues to go through into the passenger's door. I was thinking
about cutting a section large enough for the vents in the knee pad and
opening up the air duct behind it.
Can anyone think of a better place for these vents, or any reasons why
this would not be a good idea?
-Christian
(now in California)
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 17:56:37 -0400
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC stud size and continuing voltage problem
I was finally able to get another konig wheel, one of my new rims was not
machined right, but I was able to find another. I really want to put these
on soon, and I would really like to know the length of the rear wheel
studs. If any ne hapens to know this or happens to have an extra wheel
stud lying around and would not mind measuring it, I would be much
appreciative.
Now for the voltage problem. I fixed the problem with the voltage sinking
at start up, by cleaning off my bracker. The car still has a massive power
drain if I have the A/C on at with the blower going. Any idea? Plz dont
tell me I have a bad ground somewhere, and It will continue to do this
until every piece of metal is replaced. Thanks
Joe Palatinus VIN 17167
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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 17:16:05 EDT
From: CIAsleeper22@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: sneaking in a second radio bay
Christian-
Have you thought of doing the opposite? Leave the vents where they are and
install the DVD in the passenger knee pad? I recently put in a small TV into
my passenger's side knee brace and it was a piece of cake. It would certainly
be alot simpler than re-routing the air ducts thru the car.
Justin
5712
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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 16:16:21 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Dakota Digital Dash
I think the idea of a digital dash for the DeLorean is a great idea. I would
like a few clarifications. As you know the DeLorean steering wheel obstructs
the view of some of the gauges (depending upon how tall you are.)
1. Would the digital dash resolve these visibility problems?
2. Will the dash offer the ability to install other gauges like turbo boost
pressure/ manifold vacuum) this would be really nice for turbo charged cars?
3. Will the tachometer work with V-8 engines? The stock delorean tach only
works properly with a V-6?
4. Will the brightness of the gauges be adjustable? This is a problem with
some digital dashes.
5. Is there a trip odometer?
Bob Brandys
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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 15:51:26 -0700
From: comet6974@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: sneaking in a second radio bay
Okay, you don't have to touch the vents.
I used to work for an electronics store and they sold a similar unit.
You must have the screen in the dash but not the DVD. that you can put in
the locking box/trunk/shelf, where ever you want to. Assuming that the
two units are the same, the one i saw also had a CD/DVD changer, (Aiwa i
think) which can substitute the other head unit. So again as long as you
have the wires run to the location you want (for easy access i would
suggest the shelf, but for aesthetic purposes i would recommend the
locking box w/ a changer).
Trevor Johnson
6974 and 4055
________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 16:07:01 -0700
From: Greg Linstad <gregl@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door Handles from Hell!
Attention Group!
I have always known that both door handles are molded plastic, but never
thought about their reliability. Well, this past weekend our club went on
our annual Blarney Ball Rally from Seattle to the Oregon coast. On the first
day as I went to open my door the handle snapped off from behind in my hand.
It broke off from the inside where the plastic is REAL thin, leaving only
the empty slots where it came out of. Bummer, I thought, another thing to
fix but my Wife's side (which has seen MUCH less use) is still OK and I'll
just unlock my side from there. The very next morning as I unlocked Her side
and went to open it (I'm sure you all guessed it by now) the freaking handle
broke off in my hand. I stood there in shock for a while and then realized
"I can't get into my car!!!" To make a long story short, there was a tiny
piece of the plastic sticking out (since this handle broke in a different
spot) that I could CAREFULLY grab and pull with some needle-nose pliers to
finally open the door. I then just left a window open for the rest of the
weekend and had another DMC park REAL close to that side (Thanks, Knut!) for
some security.
I've since got one replacement from our resident parts guy (Darryl at
Specialty Automotive) that is die cast aluminum and will last forever (sound
of crossing fingers). Once I got to remove what was left and see the whole
assembly, I was actually surprised that it lasted as long as it did. The
plastic is very thin in what I would consider critical areas and was cracked
in places that did not totally fail (this time).
I guess from seeing both broken assemblies, I'll say to everyone to pull
slowly and carefully on your handles and don't release them and let them
'snap' back, just slowly let them down.
The rather complicated handle assembly only pulls a bicycle type cable just
like the hood and trunk release and (rhetorically speaking of course) could
have been much simpler and more reliable. Oh well, FWIW.
Be advised,
Greg Linstad
Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club
VIN# 3507 118,000+ miles
Washington plate "RUSTLSS"
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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 23:54:01 -0000
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Clean as a whistle again!!
Just emailing to say that I have cleaned up (got rid of the virus)
from my computer,and just as some kind DML's had said to do,I took
their advise and killed it in the bud,it was the w32/Plage.worm.gen
virus that attacks your email system,and attaches itself to your
incoming email and copies itself onto it,then sends it right back to
the sender with the virus attachment attached,it did come from a DML
posting,wheather the person sent it on purpose or was just a victim
like me, will never be known,but from what I know,its origination is
somewhere in Texas.THANKS for the advise,and from now on I will be
extra careful when opening up attachments.
Claude
000570
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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 21:58:41 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: sneaking in a second radio bay
Christian,
I don't recommend doing away with the center dash vents. I had a vacuum
leak that stopped my center vents from staying open. And when those vents
wouldn't stay open, it was just as well to turn the a/c off.
In Florida's humid weather, I have found that the door vents are mostly only
good for fogging up the side windows at night. Even trying to close them
off doesn't help. I'm planning on cutting sponges to fit to stick in the
door vents (to put in the space while the door is open) so that I can stop
my side windows from getting fogged up so bad. It makes the side mirrors
useless, and I have to roll down the windows to get any side visibility.
And YOU want to rely on these to cool your car without the center vents?
LOL. By the way, the windshield defrost vents are great for fogging up the
windows and do little to de-fog them. I suppose they were designed by
yankees who think that moisture only accumulates on the inside of windows.
I think a better idea than doing away with your dash vents would be to
custom make a new center console that extends a few inches higher over the
dash to make room for a second unit. If your proposed electronics setup is
in two pieces, then you could mount one over and one below the dash vents.
If what you have is a one piece setup, then perhaps you could move the dash
vents up higher. They are connected by rubber/plastic looking flexible
duct. Possibly a new custom duct could be made to direct the air up higher
without too much restriction to air flow. Then you would have your vents on
top with a double height radio mounted underneath. If a custom duct would
restrict air flow too much, then perhaps modifying the manifold behind it
could eliminate the double elbow.
Let us know what you eventually decide to do. It sounds like an interesting
project, but it all sounds like a lot of work.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 22:44:21 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel sending unit / digital dash
Matthew,
The fuel sending unit isn't that easy. It's not a rheostat like what is
used on many other cars. Instead it is a free floating thing that somehow
works by solid state. I've never taken one apart to find out. I've
installed a Tankzilla on my D, so I have the original unit that came out --
although it doesn't work -- that's why I replaced it. You might try asking
Rob Grady (of the PJ Grady outfit) to ask him to help you since he is on
close terms with whoever it is who designs the Zilla products.
As for the oil pressure gauge... I have that all figured out. It is
basically an ohmmeter. 80 psi = 80 ohms, and 0 psi = 0 ohms. There is a
non-linearity in the scale, though. You can see this from the 40 and 60 psi
readings not being at the 50% and 75% scale. I took elaborate measurements
and have data from my experiment. I am planning on publishing graphs and
what-not some time in the future, but I've got a lot of other projects that
are keeping me busy. I think I could come up with a formula that would
translate oil pressure sending unit values to dash gauge values. BUT... the
difference in the non-linearity is small. I've seen other cars that use the
same pressure gauge as the Delorean, and they didn't go to the trouble to
try to correct for the non-linearity of the sending unit. Linear or not,
the dash gauge is reasonably accurate since it is meant to be only a general
indication.
In a previous message, you gave ohm values for possible fuel level sending
units, but you were vague in the application. Are all those values things
that were used in the Delorean, or is this what Dakota Digital has to work
with? I could possibly help you with the fuel gauge as well. But since
whoever designed the Tankzilla has already figured this all out, perhaps you
could get him to talk (good luck doing this, though.)
I think the most important thing on a digital dash is to resolve the angle
drive problem. I bet if a digital dash could eliminate the angle drive,
then you could make a lot more sales. (And if this digital dash does not
eliminate the angle drive, then count me out.) Mount a pulse counter where
the angle drive mounts at the front wheel. If you can't get them to figure
out how to do it, then have them send me a pulse counter and I will make a
prototype myself if necessary! Tell them that whatever pulse counter they
send me needs to have a mechanical input that is equal to the rotational
speed of the wheel. One pulse per wheel rotation is not enough resolution
to get an accurate reading at low speeds.
To make a long story very short.... Tell them that the pulse counter needs
to be mounted where the angle drive goes, or forget it! The angle drive is
fed by a standard speedometer cable that couples to the wheel via a plastic
hub. Connecting a pulse counter here is VERY easy to do. The only problem
I could foresee is that they may need a gear drive to increase the rpm's of
the mechanical input to produce more than one pulse per wheel rotation. If
they can overcome this problem electrically instead of mechanically, then
the problem is solved and the angle drive could be eliminated.
Let me know if I can be of any further help.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 20:22:30 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Sacramento auction-/-NCDMC
On a local note (my local), the Towe Auto Museum in Sacramento California is
having an auto auction tomorrow (Saturday) morning and there will be a
DeLorean for sale. It was announced that the DeLorean would be for sale on
the cover of the automotive section of our local paper (The Bee). I plan to
attend and snag the new owner and bring him into our rag-tag band. Admission
to the auction is $8. Their phone number is (916) 442-6802.
And our club (the NCDMC) will still meet on Sunday morning. I also think the
weather will be clear that day so it should be safe to bring out our toys
and play.
Ken
=======================================================
Ken Montgomery Sacramento, CA VIN #10911 'OUTTIME'
http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean/delorean01.htm
mailto:kenm@xxxxxxxx
Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
http://members.tripod.com/ncdmc/
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com mailto:directory@xxxxxxxxxxx
=======================================================
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 23:53:31 -0400
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Dakota Digital Dash
Bob,
I think for everyone there's at least a little obstruction. With
the digits instead of the sweeping arm I think there would be less chance of
that, but I can't guarantee that there will be no obstruction based on
everyone's size and shape being different.
Dakota Digital has other gauges available and they will customize
individual dashes but the price goes up to a minimum of $850 for a one-off.
They are willing to do this. I was trying to establish a line of similar
dashes so we would get a volume discount. I bet if you asked you could
replace one of the gauges with another while still receiving the discount.
Whatever is best for you. I have a 1982 DeLorean but I bought a 1981
shifter panel and will mount my last gauge where the clock should be.
The tachometer is said to work with 2, 4, 6, and 8 cylinder engines.
There is a dimmer knob available from Dakota Digital to help with
brightness issues. This is an additional $24.95 which I am going to order.
I believe the standard setup allows for two settings, lights on and lights
off.
There is a trip odometer. The speedometer can be preset with
existing mileage when you order it I've been told. There is also a turn
signal indicator and high beam indicator. I suggest visiting Dakota
Digital's site for more information as I really think the turn signal
indicators and high beam indicators are lame, but that's the only issue I
have and I can live with it. They do have a function whereby you can
display trip mileage on the tachometer below the RPM indicator as the
odometer is on the speedometer if you wish but I don't know that they will
throw that in for us. It looks like it is standard but I haven't asked yet.
Otherwise there is a button on the display.
I believe other than running power, installing the dimmer knob, and
mounting the pulse generator there aren't any other modifications needed to
your interior. I am going to see if a trip reset button is included or if
we have to mount one ourselves. We're getting close to the R&D phase now.
I am going to order this first one at $850 as a one-off and have it
installed when it is ready. I will share all my notes with everyone
interested so that you can all benefit from my findings. Let me know if you
have any other questions.
Matthew
VIN #10365
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Brandys" <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 5:16 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] DeLorean Dakota Digital Dash
>
> I think the idea of a digital dash for the DeLorean is a great idea. I
would
> like a few clarifications. As you know the DeLorean steering wheel
obstructs
> the view of some of the gauges (depending upon how tall you are.)
>
> 1. Would the digital dash resolve these visibility problems?
>
> 2. Will the dash offer the ability to install other gauges like turbo
boost
> pressure/ manifold vacuum) this would be really nice for turbo charged
cars?
>
> 3. Will the tachometer work with V-8 engines? The stock delorean tach
only
> works properly with a V-6?
>
> 4. Will the brightness of the gauges be adjustable? This is a problem
with
> some digital dashes.
>
> 5. Is there a trip odometer?
>
> Bob Brandys
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 23:53:06 EDT
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel sending unit / digital dash
Walt,
On the fuel sending unit, you should take one apart sometime. It works on
the rheostat principal, just a little different design then other sending
units.
And on the oil sending unit. You've got the principle and idea of how it
works right, it's just the values you've got are incorrect.
Marty
In a message dated 9/22/00 10:46:46 PM Central Daylight Time, Whalt@xxxxxxx
writes:
<<
The fuel sending unit isn't that easy. It's not a rheostat like what is
used on many other cars. Instead it is a free floating thing that somehow
works by solid state. I've never taken one apart to find out. >>
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