Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Sol Shenk
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Loading R12 in A/C system
From: "Steve's" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Loading R12 in A/C system
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
4. Re: A/C Help Needed...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Eurofest 2001
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
6. Eurofest 1997
From: scottmueller<scottmueller@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Eurofest 2001
From: "Ian Foster" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Vixen Goes to Cleveland... Part III
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: A/C Help Needed...
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Delco Alternator wiring
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
12. Re: "dirt cheap" - was Number 147
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: Number 147; looking for parts; efren hicks <marty_mcflyJr@yahoo
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. RE: window motors; alternator
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: adhesive mark removal
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: adhesive mark removal
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
17. Re: Volvo compatible parts with DMC?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
18. Chassis removal
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
19. Video of Cleveland 2000 available!!!!
From: "TMasterLC@xxxxxxx" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
20. Re: Poor performance in the rain-HELP!
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
21. Idle_Off-idle problem
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: RE: window motors; alternator
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Loading R12 in A/C system
From: "Rob Hook" <robhook@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. wheel cleaner on stainless!
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
25. Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: Jgshawaii@xxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 20:52:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Sol Shenk
Hello list-
I was reading Stainless Steel Illusion and I was reading
the part about Sol Shenk, the man who was from consolidated
and considered to continue running the factory. Does
anyone know what has happened to him since then? I thought
it was very interesting reading.
Thanks
Aaron Posey
#3202
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 04:14:15 -0700
From: "Steve's" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Loading R12 in A/C system
Hi all, Sorry if I did this wrong this is my first time posting. François,
you have to get the system "vacuumed" out after you've emptied the system.
This process gets all of the air out of the system. The AC compressor will
not go on unless there is the right amount of pressure in the system, this
is controlled by a safety pressure valve. If you have any air in the system,
naturally you are not going to get anywhere near the pressure required to
activate the switch and allow the compressor to come on. The A/C shop you
brought it too should KNOW this! if the do not, I strongly recommend you
bring it else where, tell them exactly what work you had done to the system,
tell them you need a vac and fill on the A/C system.
You wrote:
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 11:26:58 -0400
From: François Laplante <laplanca@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Loading R12 in A/C system
Last week, we changed the A/C compressor's seals to get it air tight.
When completed, we brought the car to an A/C shop to replenish on R12 (I
know it is expensive...)
But after trying to load the gaz, the mechanic stopped because the
compressor would not start, and he could not mesure the pressure without the
compressor starting...
The problem is that the compressor would not work without gaz pressure... So
the mechanic refused to replenish the system!
So what is the usual procedure to load R12 gaz after you emptied the system?
François Laplante
VIN: 17145
PS: Thank you all for your ideas on my fan problems: Fanzilla was installed
and every thing is o.k.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 08:42:28 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Loading R12 in A/C system
I strongly do not recomend that you bypass the pressure switch as to
it can cause permanent damage to the compressor...especially if the
A/C tech you brought it to does it....:)
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxx> wrote:
> When I was troubleshooting my A/C system, I discovered that the
pressure
> switch is located on the receiver/dryer "can" in the right-side
wheelwell.
> If you jump the two prongs in the connector on the wiring harness,
it should
> fool the compressor into coming on.
>
> However, I would be inclined to take my car elsewhere, since many
A/C
> systems have a low-pressure cutoff, and most A/C technicians should
know
> that (and how to deal with it).
>
>
> Gus Schlachter
> Austin, TX
> VIN# 4695
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: François Laplante [mailto:laplanca@v...]
> > Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2000 10:27 AM
> > Subject: [DML] Re: Loading R12 in A/C system
> >
> >
> > Last week, we changed the A/C compressor's seals to get it air
tight.
> >
> > When completed, we brought the car to an A/C shop to replenish on
> > R12 (I know it is expensive...)
> > But after trying to load the gaz, the mechanic stopped because
> > the compressor would not start, and he could not mesure the
> > pressure without the compressor starting...
> >
> > The problem is that the compressor would not work without gaz
> > pressure... So the mechanic refused to replenish the system!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 00:28:26 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A/C Help Needed...
I have never experienced this problem in a DeLorean, are you sure you are interpreting the correct values and is your equipment hooked up properly.
Is the compressor cycling every 7 to 10 seconds? What is the temperature of the air blowing from the vents after 1 minute?
Concerning your cooling fans cutting out before the compressor, you probably have a defective cooling fan circuit breaker. If it is the factory installed 35 amp you will need to replace it with a 40 amp unit. You will also need to correct your backwards running cooling fans. If uncorrected the engine will overheat while driving the car.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Nathan E. Green
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2000 4:54 PM
Subject: [DML] A/C Help Needed...
Hi all--
After an exhausting Saturday working on the "D" I have come across a
semingly unique a/c problem. (Marty/Micah pipe in where needed...) I hope
maybe someone can help me troubleshoot.
When I bought the car, it was missing the A/C belt, presumably snapped
because of seized bearings in the idling pulleys. So, I put on a new belt,
turn on the A/C. Compressor works good, pressure builds to required level,
then compressor cuts out. Normal. This goes on for a couple minutes and all
is good, then compressor keeps going despite dangerous High Pressure values.
We reached nearly 350psi before turning the A/C off for fear of busting a
pipe. Turn back on the sytem...works good for a couple minutes then the same
thing. So what's the problem?
I am thinking we may have a bad high pressure switch that doesn't shut the
compressor off properly?(But why would it initially work, then suddenly
climb out of control??)
A second more realistic solution is a clogg in the evac? hose. So air
intially escapes, but then clogg works towards screen and gets caught in the
hose...thus air can no longer "escape" and pressures then build.
Compressor apears to work great...system works good for a couple minutes
then goes crazy. Two smaller problems(I think are unrelated...but I will
mention). Previous owner installed a clockwise fan, so I have air flow to
the outside!!. Also, front fans will quit even though the compressor runs.
The fans turn on with A/C but quits a few moments later, despite
sytem/compressor still working.(Relay problem??)
Can anyone out there help? Where are you A/C specialist type people...
Thanks.
Nate
Nathan E. Green
gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx
"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're gonna' see
some serious s--t"
-Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 22:41:56 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Eurofest 2001
I am looking forward to Eurofest myself and have already purchased the
tickets.
Ireland is probably one of the safer countries to go to as a US citizen. I
have been to countries where you need to be escorted if you are from the US.
Besides maybe you will find a pot of gold (or stainless)
See you in Ireland
Ken
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 06:36:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: scottmueller<scottmueller@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Eurofest 1997
http://www.delorean-owners.org/events/euro97.html
The link above will take you to a short story I wrote about Eurofest 1997. It will give you
some insite on what to expect if you attend Eurofest 2001. I had a great time in 1997.
Scott Mueller
1981/002981
Get 100% FREE Internet Access from Freei.Net. 100% FREE, 100% Anonymous, 100% Jam Packed with features. Check us out at http://www.freei.net.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 20:17:17 +0800
From: "Ian Foster" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Eurofest 2001
Gus and Belfast 2001 visitors,
I sent my DeLorean from LosAngeles back to Britain last Christmas. Shipping
(in a container including $20k insurance cover) cost $1000. Car went into
docks in London, the Customs officers and shippers were all over me asking
permission to take photos standing by the car. I also got quotes for roll-on
roll-off ferries from NY, Baltimore, Florida, or Houston for about $500 one
way. Car is tied down inside the transporter ferry ... driven in, driven
out. Ferry docks into Liverpool or Portsmouth in England.
You can import the car under a 'Carnet-de-passage' without hassle. My
DeLorean in N.Ireland is a LHD (along with most of the other DMCs there!) so
you can drive without problems ... take it easy to start with!!! Remember at
junctions to turn onto the left side lane, etc...
Cheers, IAN (HongKong)
*********************************
----- Original Message -----
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 3:43 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] Eurofest 2001
> I would love to take my Delorean to Ireland. However, I have no idea how
I
> would manage to get it there, since I don't think I can convince James
Espey
> to drive it there for me this time. :-)
>
> I realize that it would take a slow boat and thus a long time (possibly
> mucho $$, too) but I'd be more concerned about temporarily importing it
and
> driving my left-hooker on roads made for righties. That is, can I get a
> waiver for my car not being "Euro-Spec"?
>
>
> Gus Schlachter
> Austin, TX
> VIN# 4695
>
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Stian Birkeland [mailto:dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> > Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2000 6:15 AM
> > Subject: Re: [DML] Eurofest 2000
> >
> <SNIP>
> > Im going to Belfast next year and Im bringing my DeLorean. I think
> > there is going to be a parade of cars driving not only the test track,
but
> > a parade in down-town Belfast.
> >
> > Whoever of you who has got the chance to bring your DeLorean, please do
> do.
> > The event will mark the 20th anniversary for the DeLorean Sports Car.
> >
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 22:20:15 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vixen Goes to Cleveland... Part III
Better late than never, right? You've heard most of the story from
everyone else about the show. All I'll add it is my sincere
appreciation to everyone who had a hand in organizing it. It was truly
an unbelievable event.
As for my view of it... it started at about 7am outside of the DMC
Houston mobile home. By this point, Stephen Wynne had gotten used to
seeing me on his doorstep each morning anxiously awaiting my fuel pump.
It finally arrived, and I put it in post haste. The new problem was
that Vixen now "cycled" up and down in RPMs severely, and would bearely
maintain an idle. It seems the new fuel pump was a slightly different
pressure than the old, and it was wreaking havoc on the sensitive
K-Jetronic plumbing.
Up until this point, all I had wanted to do was drive my
half-resurrected D over to the show. This was my goal. This would be
my victory; my vindication over the folks who said it couldn't be
done... but... it just was not to be. I couldn't keep her running long
enough to drive her across the parking lot, let alone over to the show.
With a heavy heart, I muscled her back up on the trailer and dragged her
over to the show.
Arriving at the pier, Ken Koncelik pointed me to a space where he wanted
the car to be displayed. However, I had already pulled too far up onto
the pier, and for those of you who have ever used a car dolly, you know
that you simply cannot back up. It's like trying to push a piece of
chain... they pivot in too many directions at once. Sooo... I unhooked
the D to push her off in order to free the trailer and allow me to get
out of the way.
I jumped in the Vixen, put her in Reverse, and bumped the starter to
bump her downn off the ramp. To my complete and utter suprise, she took
off backwards like a bat out of hell -- running strongly and perfectly.
Now normally I would consider this a Good Thing, however, with the three
inches of water sloshing around inside the car, it made it nearly
impossible for my wet size 13 boots to stay on the pedals long enough to
stop the car. I was flying backwards at great speed... heading directly
at another D. The look of terror on the owners' faces was likely only
matched by my own petrified mug as I slammed the emergency brake and
swung the wheel hard left. The car spun 180, and stalled.
There was a stunned silence for a moment as everyone tried to figure out
exactly what had just transpired. I had wanted a grand entrance. I
guess -that- was accomplished, and then some. I regained my composure a
bit, restarted the car, and with a bit more control, parked her where
she was supposed to be.
Aside from a severe sunburn, the show went well. I truly enjoyed having
the "Visible Vixen" available for others to see. Few folks ever get the
opportunity to see what I have stared at every day for the last seven
months -- a D sans skin.
At the end of the show, I decided to 'make a run' for the parking area.
The car cooperated fully and I achieved a simple goal... one I had
looked forward to for months. I shifted into second gear. =)
And that's the story of Vixen's trip to Cleveland.
-Dave Stragand
http://www.ProjectVixen.com
VIN #05927
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 14:57:56 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A/C Help Needed...
Sounds like you may have a clogged orifice tube. When you look at the
hoses connecting to the compressor, notice how wide they are. Not too
many places for any kind of blockage to build up. Evacuate the system
and remove the orifice tube. It may also be a good idea to blow out
the A/C lines to remove any dirt. Replace the orifice tube and have a
pressure test run before evacuating the air and refilling with R-12.
Since the system is sealed any kind of dirt inside is not normal. A
pressure test can tell you weather you've got a leak in the system,
or it wasn't properly evacutated last time.
Note: When we replaced the orifice tube on our car it came out easily
in one piece, I have been told that this is not always the norm. If
while removing the orifice tube it breaks apart inside DO NOT DRILL
IT OUT!!! When the orifice tube is inserted is twists up thru a quick
curve in the metal A/C line. If you attempt to use a drill to remove
broken piece(s) you risk puncturing the A/C tube.
-Robert
vin 6585
p.s. after replacing the orifice tube & filling the system with 2.8
lbs. of freon, the A/C never cycles on & off. I don't remember the
pressures, but they never got up high enough from then on to trip the
switch. duct temp was measured @ 42°
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21@xxxx> wrote:
Compressor works good, pressure builds to required level,
> then compressor cuts out. Normal. This goes on for a couple minutes
and all
> is good, then compressor keeps going despite dangerous High
Pressure values.
> We reached nearly 350psi before turning the A/C off for fear of
busting a
> pipe. Turn back on the sytem...works good for a couple minutes then
the same
> thing. So what's the problem?
> I am thinking we may have a bad high pressure switch that doesn't
shut the
> compressor off properly?(But why would it initially work, then
suddenly
> climb out of control??)
> A second more realistic solution is a clogg in the evac?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 22:59:55 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
So, what have I done since the Cleveland show? Nothing.
I spent the last six weeks hopping around the world on business, and
driving around to other car shows in my '58. Summer comes but for a few
months a year, and I enjoyed putting a 1000 miles on the old Plymouth in
just a few weeks.
But every time I open my garage door, I see a D staring back at me...
with an impatient _expression_ on her fascia that seems to say, "Well???"
So it's time to get back on the horse. I finally started back in on the
car. Except for the air conditioning, the car is 100% functional, if
not perfectly tuned. I could really use a Bosch fuel pressure tester.
If anyone out there in DMCNews-land has one I could borrow or rent,
please let me drop me a line.
I took the opportunity to organize things around the shop a bit, and
noticed something important. My pile of parts left to install is now
really small. Aside from the body panels and interior components, there
isn't much left to put on at all.
I'm only a weekend and a lifetime away from being finished. I can't
really believe there's so little left to do. Here's a brief list:
1) Get body work done on T-panel, doors, and RH quarter.
2) Rebrush all stainless.
3) Install all stainless.
4) Purchase and install new fasicas.
5) Install new windshield.
6) Purchase and install rear window.
7) Get interior carpets professionally cleaned. Get 'hopeless' pieces
replaced.
8) Purchase and install new seat covers.
9) Finish air conditioning.
10) Install interior, including purchasing new binnacle.
11) Get wheels powder coated.
12) Get oxygen sensor bung welded onto exhaust pipe.
13) Restore windshield moldings.
14) Repair and repaint engine cover and louvers
15) Paint trunk compartment.
16) Alignment.
17) Pennsylvania state inspection.
I'm going to try the "dry ice" trick on the dents first. I'll keep
y'all posted on the results.
-Dave Stragand
http://www.ProjectVixen.com
VIN #05927
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 22:15:20 EDT
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
Subject: Delco Alternator wiring
Can one of you Delco experts tell me the wiring to replace my Ducellier
alternator with a Delco. Or send me a diagram (I am better with pictures) at
SAND131@xxxxxxx
Thanks,
Ralph
Vin 1606
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 23:50:41 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "dirt cheap" - was Number 147
Personally, I feel that you are being overly sensitive on this, and I don't
believe this is the type of thing the moderators should be watching for.
"Dirt cheap" is just an alternate way of saying "very inexpensive". As you
say, most of us try to watch for bargains and good deals, or in other
words, inexpensive parts.
Obviously you are reading more into the term "dirt cheap" than most of us
do. I agree that it could have some bad connotations, but most people are
going to take it as it was meant - inexpensive - not as bad quality. I'm
sure that the people using the term "dirt cheap" love their DeLoreans just
as much as the rest of us. I sincerely doubt that the use of this term,
when used on an Internet mailing list while inquiring for parts, will have
any effect on the overall value of the cars. There are *many* other factors
that will have a far greater influence.
Mark N
VIN 6820
At 01:50 PM 7/30/00 EDT, surfcity45@xxxxxxx wrote:
<snip>
>Everyone is looking for a bargain or a "good deal" however, I find the term
>"dirt cheap" offensive.
<snip>
>Am I the only one bothered by this? Are the moderators not concerned?
<snip>
>
>Vic Stewart
># 00568
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 00:37:29 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Number 147; looking for parts; efren hicks <marty_mcflyJr@yahoo
Vic,
I am not at all offended by the term "dirt cheap" although I will admit to
having trouble getting offended. Either that, or I've gotten used to it.
The term "dirt cheap" is used all the time and is relative. A dirt-cheap
castle is still pretty expensive. So someone seeking an inexpensive jewel
is seeking a jewel nonetheless and I would only be offended if the the
"cheap" term was directed at DMC owners or the line of cars as a whole.
As I've said before, I have no interest in the Delorean automobile becoming
generally desirable or valuable. Since I already have my car, any increase
in value at this point only raises my insurance rates and parts costs.
I'm sure the moderators have many concerns, but their stated goal is to
filter the spam and keep us on the subject of the Car, the Company, and the
Man. Any additional editorial deletion of reader submissions would truly be
offensive.
Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695
> -----Original Message-----
> From: surfcity45@xxxxxxx [mailto:surfcity45@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2000 12:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Number 147; looking for parts
>
> As long as the terminology "dirt cheap" is used in association with
DeLorean
> by reference to parts, the car and things related to them . . . they will
> never rise to the prominence of a sought after, valuable, collectible
> treasure and investment.
>
> Everyone is looking for a bargain or a "good deal" however, I find the
term
> "dirt cheap" offensive.
>
> This is the second time that I have spoken up to this forum regarding a
> situation in reference to "cheap" when speaking or referring of these
> automobiles.
>
> Am I the only one bothered by this? Are the moderators not concerned?
>
> Maybe this person should just have gotten a "Chevy." Those 20 year old
cars
> and parts are in fact . . . "dirt cheap."
>
> Vic Stewart
> # 00568
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 19:40:52 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: window motors; alternator
"I just purchased replacement window motor assy's.... Is there anyway to do
a shortcut so that the window will lower?... Please respond list, I really
need help here!"
"I HAVE JUST INSTALLED A NEW DELCO REMY ALTERNATOR... DOES ANYONE OUT THERE
HAVE AN ANSWER FOR ME?"
Questions like these really puzzle me. Why on earth would you ask this list
for help instead of the person/business you bought the parts from? Part of
being a reliable DeLorean parts supplier is helping customers with their
questions and problems. If they won't help you, I'd be rethinking doing
future business with that supplier. There is more to SERVICE than just the
cheapest price.
Had I sold the window motors and you called with your problem, I would have
advised you to first duct tape the window in place so it doesn't accidently
fall out. Then, just remove the old motor assembly. When you pull it out
you will leave only that greasy cable attached to the window, and it will
then easily come out. You can drill out the turning stud after that.
The alternator problem is a little trickier. If you had purchased one from
me, it would have required hooking up only one wire, and would have worked
great. So I'm not sure just what it is you are dealing with, but I'd sure
be asking the person you got it from.
Not trying to be snippy here, but as good as this list is, your first source
of answers should always be where you got the parts. If that doesn't work,
then by all means bring your questions here and get the advice of many who
have "been down that road."
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 23:02:47 -0400
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: adhesive mark removal
Erik,
Get yourself a quart of 3M general Adhesive Cleaner and Remover part # 08984
available at most auto parts stores. It will remove the residue from your
stainless. You will also need this stuff if and when you replace the outer
door seals also.
Bill Lane
vin #3635
Jake wrote:
> Erik,
>
> I couldn't say what it does to stainless (I would assume, nothing), but
> rubbing alcohol and especially nail polish remover have been very useful to
> me in removing adhesive marks.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Jake
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 1:27 AM
> Subject: [DML] adhesive mark removal
>
> > I have two adheasive marks on a left quarter panel I have (for
> > sale). It looks like they have been there awhile. I tried using
> > gas, but that didn't take it out (i didn't try to hard either).
> > Should I try using gas again, or is there another product out there
> > that will work better?
> > Thanks
> >
> > Erik Geerdink
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 08:23:15 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: adhesive mark removal
Erik, I had adhesive marks on my driver side door. The previous owner
stored the car with the window open before removing the battery so he
but Dust Tape on it...after sitting for four years it really stuck
on. I used Goof Off...it works great. You need to soak the adhesive
down with it and it won't damage or leave marks on the stainless.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxx> wrote:
> I have two adheasive marks on a left quarter panel I have (for
> sale). It looks like they have been there awhile. I tried using
> gas, but that didn't take it out (i didn't try to hard either).
> Should I try using gas again, or is there another product out there
> that will work better?
> Thanks
>
> Erik Geerdink
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 00:03:29 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Volvo compatible parts with DMC?
Unfortunately none of the parts from the 4 cylinder are compatible with the PRV-6.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Ohlin
To: DMC News
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2000 3:13 PM
Subject: [DML] Volvo compatible parts with DMC?
Dear DML,
I was wondering if anyone out there could shed some light on this question.
My neighbors have a
Volvo 760 Turbo Intercooler SW that overheated once too often and they plan
to junk it. It's a 4 cylinder automatic, but I was wondering if there were
any parts that might be compatible with the DeLorean. He said I was welcome
to take whatever I liked. (The engine obviously won't work).
Thanks,
Russ (VIN #16,427)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 08:38:48 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Chassis removal
Hi all, long time reader first time poster. I don't know if this
topic was covered yet or not but I wanted to see if there were any
recomendations for removing the chassis from the body. So far I have
removed the gas tank, most of the radiator hoses and fuel lines. My
first question is 1. Is it possible to remove the chassis without
disconnecting the AC compressor hoses from the compressor? I really
don't want to lose the freon that's chrged in it. 2. I hear there are
only 10 bolts holding the body to the chassis? is this true? about
where are they located? any info would greatley be appreciated.
thanks
Steve.
P.S for all of you wondering about a die cast model of the Delorean,
I hear that a model company just picked up the rights to begin to
manufacture them. I don't know the name of the company, but I know
they are suppose to come out within a year. If anyone else has more
info on this, let me know..thanks.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 02:08:20 -0500
From: "TMasterLC@xxxxxxx" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Video of Cleveland 2000 available!!!!
Dear DML:
For those of you who weren't able to attend the Cleveland show,
or even those who did attend, but without a camcorder...
we've finally finished editing the entire weekend of AWESOME events!!!!!
Below is a list of the contents. If you have additional questions, or would
like to know more about specific events, please send e-mail directly to
TMasterLC@xxxxxxx
(P.S. Ken, your copy will be mailed shortly! Thank you!)
DELOREAN CAR SHOW VIDEO
Cleveland, Ohio
(approx. running time: 160 min.)
Thursday, June 15, 2000:
4 min. Bauerle Automotive, Radnor, OH (sad "D's").
Friday, June 16, 2000:
4 min. Glenn NASA Research Center,
100th Bomb Group Restaurant with D's in parking lot,
James A. Garfield Presidential Memorial at Lakeside Cemetery.
29 min. All cars in The Crawford Auto-Aviation Museum (calliope music added)
including first and last DeLorean (VIN #500 and Carl's 24 kt. gold plated),
Bob Brandys BTTF,
stainless steel Ford & T-Bird.
9 min. JZD arrives, signs autographs,
outside The Crawford Museum.
2 min. Mark DeLorean introduces Uncle John.
32 min. Meeting with JZD and question/answer session.
8 min. Raffle prizes with Kathryn DeLorean and Ken Koncelik.
Saturday, June 17, 2000:
20 min. DeLorean Car Show on 9th Street Pier.
1 min. JZD signing my car.
13 min. Great Lakes Science Center banquet,
awards (I got 2nd Place under 20,000 miles),
raffle prizes with Kathryn DeLorean and Ken Koncelik.
Sunday, June 18, 2000:
30 min. Goodtime III lunch cruise with Captain Jack Wagner
on Lake Erie and the Cuyahoga River.
1 min. Rock and Roll Hall of Fame Museum.
Monday, June 19, 2000:
1 min. Goodbye Cleveland!
9 min. Driving through Indianapolis, Indiana
with entertainment by Erica & Jaime,
back to home state of Missouri.
To order your copy... send name, mailing address, and
check* or money order for $24.99 including shipping & handling to:
Ron and Cheryl Wester
P.O. Box 1177
St. Peters, Missouri 63376-0020
All video cassette tapes are VHS format from high-quality digital 8 original
and shipped ASAP.
*please allow an additional 2 weeks for delivery if paying by check.
Thank you!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 08:28:25 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Poor performance in the rain-HELP!
Here's a little trick you can try Joshua. Start your car up and let
it warm up. Get a spray bottle with water in it and MIST LIGHTLY the
water over your wires. If your problem begins to come back after
doing that, your wires need to be replaced. 9 out of 10 times this is
the cause. What hppens is the rubber jacket on the wires either break
or deterioate and the when they get wet the spark will arc to the
engine block, never making it to the spark plug. Check your cap also
to see if there are any crack in it..I know it's a pain to get to it.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Jdsjlv@xxxx wrote:
> I'm having a problem with my D in the rain. When I'm
drivingin the
> rain, either on the highway or backroads, my car will begin to buck
and
> hesitate. If I try to accelerate, it does the same thing. The only
way I can
> get good acceleration is by downshifting. When I downshift from
third to
> second, I must wait until I reach 3500 RPM for the power to come
online,
> though this holds true for each gear. This will usually last for
about 30-45
> min worth of highway driving, then it clears up, but starts again
after a
> while.
> Does anyone know what might be wrong with it? Has anyone ever
had
> this problem before? Is it possible that it has something to do
with either
> bad plugs, wires, cap or rotor (they were all changed 20,000 miles
ago)? Any
> advice wouls be appreciated. You can e-mail me at: jdsjlv@xxxx
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joshua Schwartz
> 001292
> Trumbull,CT
> P.S. Is anyone on the list from CT?
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> eGroup home: http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews
> Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 10:40:14 -0500
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Idle_Off-idle problem
I was helping out another DMLer yesterday with a problem that has me
scratching my head a little. The original complaint was that the car will
either idle at 850 rpm (normal) or, as you tip-in the throttle, jump
immediately to about 1200+. Makes it hard to make a smooth start in a
manual-trans car. The odd thing is that if you take it out of "idle" mode by
backing off the microswitch adjustment, it will go to 1200rpm with the
throttle still closed. We backed off the throttle stop screw as well, no
difference. No one has ever messed with the A/F adjustment (it is still
sealed, the car only has about 3K miles on it). No obvious vacuum leaks.
Other than this, the car runs beautifully.
Other things to consider - this is a 3000-mile car, fuel system has
apparently had typical issues evidenced by recent fuel pump and lack of most
of the fuel intake system but seems OK now as long as the gas tank is over
1/2 full. Inside of the tank is clean.
So - it seems that the idle control motor is doing its thing, but it seems
odd that taking it out of idle mode increases the idle speed this much. I
tried the same thing on my car, opening the idle microswitch takes the idle
speed from about 850 to about 950 rpm. This seems normal.
What else should we be looking for?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 12:04:05 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: RE: window motors; alternator
Having myself considered buying a Delco alternator from the local pep
boys, I would be interested in a answer to this question as well. I
suspect this is the case.
I agree Darryl, that if dealing with a DeLorean specific vendor we can
expect to have this type of question answered by them.
I have always been one to argue that we should all use DeLorean vendors
whenever possible, but when it comes to a Alternator I tend to replace
them quite often. For that reason, I use alternator vendors that
include a lifetime warranty on the part. As far as I know, none of the
DeLorean vendors offer this on their alternators.
When I replace mine, I plan on using a Pep-Boys unit, so I get the
lifetime warranty.
Marc
Darryl Tinnerstet wrote:
>
<SNI>
>
> Questions like these really puzzle me. Why on earth would you ask this list
> for help instead of the person/business you bought the parts from? Part of
> being a reliable DeLorean parts supplier is helping customers with their
> questions and problems. If they won't help you, I'd be rethinking doing
> future business with that supplier. There is more to SERVICE than just the
> cheapest price.
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 23:54:04 -0700
From: "Rob Hook" <robhook@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Loading R12 in A/C system
I agree. All he really had to do was hook up the R12 to the low pressure
side of the compressor and put the can of R12 in a bowl of warm water. That
would have raised the pressure enough (after a minute or two) to allow the
compressor to come on. Jumping the low pressure switch is also a
possibility but he should make sure there are no leaks somehow first
otherwise he'll suck air (and moisture) into the system and spend the
receiver dryer. But I still say take it somewhere else.
--Rob Hook
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Niemczewski <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sunday, July 30, 2000 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Loading R12 in A/C system
>First a vacuum pump should be used to remove air and moisture from the
>system. It takes about 20 to 30 minutes. Then he should charge the system
>with 2.2 lbs of R-12. No A/C system will turn the compressor on without
>proper pressure. May I suggest that you stay away from that mechanic? He
has
>no idea how the A/C system works.
>Hope this helps.
>Tom Niemczewski
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 12:28:51 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: wheel cleaner on stainless!
Hello List,
My car has a perfect stainless steel door and one stainless rear 1/4
panel, the rest of the car is painted black. I was cleaning my R.O.H custom
wheels with Turtle FORMULA 2001 foaming wheel cleaner. I wanted to see what
it did on the stainless and it works GREAT! just spray on and wipe dry. It
resist finger prints and really looks shiny. just wanted to let you all
know. It works better than anything I have tried. I doubt it hurts the
stainless, nothing really does.
Later
Dave
#2496-black-not for long
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 12:50:19 EDT
From: Jgshawaii@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
WHATS THE DRY ICE TRICK?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN