dmcnews-digest Saturday, December 20 1997 Volume 03 : Number 313
In this issue:
DML: Brake Master Cylinder
DML: Diagram
DML: T-Bars
Re: DML: More Power to Us!
DML: toyota sera
RE: DML: More Power to Us!
Re: New owner to be (was DML: More Power to Us!)
DML: Confusion about DeLorean One
Re: DML: More Power to Us! (Manufacture year)
Re: DML: Confusion about DeLorean One
DML: Automatic Transmission
Re: DML: Brake Master Cylinder
Re: DML: Automatic Transmission
Re: DML: Too much gas
Re: DML: Diagram
Re: DML: Automatic Transmission The automatic transmission is totally gutless. Sell it and buy a
Re: DML: Automatic Transmission
DML: DeLorean Wiring Diagram
DML: Refinishing Wheels
DML: Black Oxide / Anodizing
DML: Starting problems.
DML: The Jag Shop
DML: Window Regulators
DML: More cold weather problems
DML: Re: Starting problems.
Re: DML: Starting problems.
Re: DML: Black Oxide / Anodizing
Re: DML: Toyota Gullwing Dudes
Re: DML: Re: Starting problems.
DML: Not an owner yet !
DML: DML Re: Starting problems - bad starter?
DML: Starting problems...
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 23:16:28 -0600
From: Duke <duke@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Brake Master Cylinder
Thanks to everyone who sent me the cross reference number for the brake =
master cylinder, however, living here in Mobile, Al, there's only 2 good =
foreign car parts places and neither one of them carry the Lucas Girling =
74066116. If anyone has ordered this brake master cylinder, I was =
wondering from where and how much it costs. =20
Thanks and Merry Christmas!,
Duke Bladorn
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 97 00:29:00 PST
From: "Brandon S. Moody" <bsmoody@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Diagram
I would have never guesed that so many people needed a diagram of the
wiring system. Believe me, its a great help when troubleshooting the
anoying
little delorean problems. I'll try and keep everyone updated on the
status of my
project. Although, my spare time this week is limited, I'm working on
it
when I'm
not working , flying, or driving. Currently I'm trying different ways of
printing
and enlarging. Trying to find the best quality at the lowest price. Hard
to
do when working in such a large format.
- -Brandon
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 97 08:02:40 PST
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: T-Bars
I was helping my friend this past weekend restore his Delorean car.
We managed to get the passenger door back on and the torsion
bars installed. This makes about the 5th or 6th time I have did this
and it hasn't gotten any easier. Does anyone have any info on an
easy way to set the torsion bars ? The hard parts isn't really holding
the pressure on the bar, but keeping it centered in the hole so someone
can installed the bracket. Any helpful hints will be greatly
appreciated.
- -Brandon
bsmoody@xxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 21:26:10 EST
From: Nontoxic55 <Nontoxic55@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: More Power to Us!
I am as well a future owner of a delorean and am only 16. By the end of
January i will have bought my Delorean for $2500. It needs a lot of work
as
you may be able to tell from the price, so you will be hearing a lot from
me
in the near future. I have a question for everyone out there...when i
went to
take a look at it for the FOURTH time, (hey, im really excited) i found
the
VIN number (which i dont have with me by the way, but it's long) but i
couldnt find where the year of manufacture was? Could somebody let me
know
where it is? Thanks to all.
- -Morgan Wise
Las Vegas
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 15:54:36 -0500
From: "John L. Stiefel, II" <stiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: toyota sera
go and take a look at http://ux01.so-net.or.jp/~t_ishida/index.html to
learn more about the sera
Jack Stiefel Stiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 08:47:37 -0500
From: "John L. Stiefel, II" <stiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DML: More Power to Us!
Look onthe drivers side of the door frame, and look near the rear door
latch. There will be a plate telling you the date of manufacture
good luck, Jack
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 97 06:54:42 -0000
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New owner to be (was DML: More Power to Us!)
On 12/17/97 2:26 AM, Nontoxic55 shared these fine thoughts...
>I am as well a future owner of a delorean and am only 16. By the end of
>January i will have bought my Delorean for $2500. It needs a lot of work as
>you may be able to tell from the price, so you will be hearing a lot from
It sound like you have your work cut out for you - fortunately, between
the back issues and the "knowledge base" here on the DeLorean Mailing
List, all your questions can probably be answered quickly. The key will
be to take your time, and not get discouraged. It is not likely to be a
very quick project.
>me in the near future. I have a question for everyone out there...when i
>went to take a look at it for the FOURTH time, (hey, im really excited) i
>the VIN number (which i dont have with me by the way, but it's long) but i
The significant part of the VIN are the last eight characters, which
should be two letters followed by 6 numbers. The two letters indicate the
model year (BD=81, CD=82, DD=83) and the last six digits indicate the
production number.
>couldnt find where the year of manufacture was? Could somebody let me
>know where it is? Thanks to all.
There should be a silver colored plate, about 3 inches square, located
about knee level inside the drivers side door jamb at the rear. It will
also have the VIN, and underneath it will be the build month/year.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
James
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 97 08:14:30 -0000
From: Gustavson Handleman <gus421@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Confusion about DeLorean One
I am kind of new to the world of DeLoreans, but I have what may be a
stupid question and hope someone here can answer this for me.
I just visited the DeLorean One website, and their page says that they
are
"the world's largest source for DeLorean parts, service and accessories",
but I've been reading the back issues and get the impression that Stephen
Wynne and DMC of Houston ARE the source of all (or certainly most) of the
remaining DeLorean parts.
What/who is right?
Gustavson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 09:30:52 PST
From: "Michael Babb" <mikebabb@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: More Power to Us! (Manufacture year)
If you have the last 4-5 digits of the vin, many people can tell from
that what the year was. The other place to check is the metal plate
just inside the drivers door (It is mounted face up on the black plastic
between the outside and inside of the car) If memory server, this will
contain the year and month of manufacture.
Good luck with the car, keep us posted on your progress, and welcome to
the wonderful world of DeLorean ownership!
Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT
mikebabb@xxxxxxxxxxx
mbabb@xxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 09:37:02 PST
From: "Michael Babb" <mikebabb@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Confusion about DeLorean One
Think of the DeLorean One website as what it is: an ad for their
company. I can say that my company is the best when it in actuality may
not be. With the KAPAC inventory going to Stephen and all at
DMC-Houston I believe that they now have the BIGGEST parts inventory in
the world (I know that they have parts that you will not find anywhere
else (especially if you want it to be factory origional)
Michael Babb
>Subject: DML: Confusion about DeLorean One
>Date: Wed, 17 Dec 97 08:14:30 -0000
>From: Gustavson Handleman <gus421@xxxxxxx>
>To: "DMCNews" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>I am kind of new to the world of DeLoreans, but I have what may be a
>stupid question and hope someone here can answer this for me.
>
>I just visited the DeLorean One website, and their page says that they are
>"the world's largest source for DeLorean parts, service and accessories",
>but I've been reading the back issues and get the impression that Stephen
>Wynne and DMC of Houston ARE the source of all (or certainly most) of the
>remaining DeLorean parts.
>
>What/who is right?
>
>Gustavson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 09:45:28 -0800
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Automatic Transmission
Hey all-
I've put about 200 miles on my Delorean and I've been pretty unhappy with
the automatic transmission. Now as far as what the dealer that sold it to
me said, the stick shift linkage cable is new, and when I test drove it,
it
needed to be adjusted. But the problems I'm having seem unrelated. Here
is what is happening:
In drive, when the car is cold it acts like it's in 3rd gear all the time.
(although it may be second.. needless to say the RPMs get up there, and
I'm
hardly moving..) So I manually shift to 2nd, which drives alright for
city
speeds. After the car warms up, drive seems to work O.K., but when
accelerating from a stop, the car "stutters" on 1st, until it switches
into
2nd. It sounds like it's switching between 1st and 2nd, when it should
just stay in 1st. Although it could just be switching between 1st and
nothing until it gets going fast enough.
It's really a bummer to drive like this, as the car accelerates totally
gutless, as it doesn't stay in gear. Does anyone have advice or an idea
if
it's the shift cable or if there is a deeper problem with the
transmission.
The dealer said it was the cable, and he said he would fix it prior to me
buying it, so whatever the problem is, I'm holding him responsible for
repairs.
Thanks a lot! Anything will help me when I'm talking to the dealer.. I'm
not exactly automotive-minded, but I'm trying to learn as much as
possible.
Dave
davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 12:56:42 EST
From: MBell14632 <MBell14632@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Brake Master Cylinder
If there is a BAP/GEON around, try part # 25-09108. I believe it fits a
Peugot. 1994 price was around $140.00.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 23:37:51 +0000
From: BRUCE BENSON <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Automatic Transmission
>It's really a bummer to drive like this, as the car accelerates totally
>gutless, as it doesn't stay in gear. Does anyone have advice or an idea
>if it's the shift cable or if there is a deeper problem with the
>transmission.
>Dave
>davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
The DeLorean automatic shift valves are shifted by two electric solenoids
controlled by a computer governor assembly. Most shifting problems are
related to one or the other, or both, usually because of heat build up in
the tranny. The DeLorean has a poor cooling system for the auto tranny
fluid. A transmission oil cooler would help. I'd call one of the DeLorean
shops and run your problem by them.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 17:37:17 -0600
From: Jordan Gary <jordang@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Too much gas
I have been thinking a lot about your car running too rich. Much of what
you
said that they have been doing has nothing to do with the rich problem.
There
are fuel injection problems which can make it run too rich. I would
first put a
pressure gauge on the fuel line, just before it goes into the fuel
distributer.
It is suppose to be 75 psi when cranking or running. A higher pressure,
caused
by a failing primary pressure regulator, would cause it to run rich.
These cars
also have a secondary pressure adjustment which causes the car to run
richer
during warmup. If that is not working, then the enrichment would
continue. by Jordan Gary
ausmith@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Steve,
>
> If you think it might be the cold start injector, let the engine warm
> up and disconnect it.
>
> Has anyone done a compression check?
>
> Chris
>
> > I have an almost brand new DeLorean. It has barely over 2,000 miles
> > on it, but after the first two weeks it will no longer run at full power
> > and if you ask it to it will blow its belts. Steve Wynn and Robert GRady
> > believe that the problem has something to do with way too much gas going
> > into the engine and making its way into the exhaust system where the gas
> > ignites and makes the exhaust system molten hot, which melts the belts and
> > the heat shield. The only thing that I can think of that can cause this
> > is
> > the cold start system. We have already replaced the catalytic converter,
> > the oxygen sensor, all six fuel injectors, the idle computer, the spark
> > plugs, and retuned the car. Does anyone have any idea what else might be
> > causing this problem?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Steve
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 01:11:03 -0500
From: Vicki Miller <"1000mil@xxxxxxx"@gte.net>
Subject: Re: DML: Diagram
all dmc owners if you want a large readable wiring diagram contact P J
Grady. he has them in stock and they are not expensive. I have seen
one this past weekend at a friends house and it was FANTASTIC.....
this way you dont have to wait.
bob miller
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 08:01:09 EST
From: FalcoN 374 <FalcoN374@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Automatic Transmission The automatic transmission is totally gutless. Sell it and buy a
manual. I
spent 580 dollars putting a transmission governor on my car which solved
the
shifting problems, however about 20 miles down the road, it blew the whole
frail transmission. My delorean is no dead- the guy that works on it
wants
3500 dollars to install a new transmission- is this a valid price?
Sender: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Precedence: list
Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 07:11:36 -0700 (MST)
From: raddad@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Automatic Transmission
Further on this subject:
I put nearly 100,000 miles on my first D with an automatic. I was never
satisfied with the acceleration even when it went through all three gears
as it was supposed to. There are two things you can do, and which I did,
to reduce the transmission heat problem -- and it is a problem.
First, either wrap the exhaust crossover pipe or install a different
exhaust system. The corssover pipe literally lays on top of the
transmission housing and adds a lot of heat right where you don't want it.
Second, get a transmission oil cooler. I got one from Terri Jennings that
was not expensive and worked quite well.
Dick Ryaqn
The Rad Dad
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 06:27:13 -0600
From: Marcie Haug <products@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DeLorean Wiring Diagram
The DeLorean Owners Association has in stock the DeLorean Wiring Diagram
printed on 22 inch x 34 inch poster paper with a separate 11 inch x 17
inch Location Index and Symbol Key. Item No: 107. $10.00 + $5.00 S/H for
priority mail delivery in the US.
This is Great for mounting on the wall or use in the garage.
You may order it via phone, FAX, snail mail, or best yet stop by our
Marketplace Web Store located at:
http://www.delorean-owners.org/market/index.html
Click on Public products.
Enter the number you want along side of Item No. 107, look over the rest
of the DeLorean books, posters, plate for last minute Holiday gifts, and
then ADD Your Selection to the Cart, Complete the Order form, place your
credit card info on our Secure Server, and we will ship it to you the
next day.
Have a Very Happy Holiday!
Marcie Haug, Products Director
DeLorean Owners Association
1617 Del Valle Avenue
Glendale, CA 91208
FAX/Phone: (818)547-3638
email: products@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 15:39:06 -0500
From: John L.Stiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx, II <stiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Refinishing Wheels
I talked with my contact this afternoon regarding the possible DeLorean
owners deal to refinish our existing wheels. I had mine done last
summer and was extremely impressed. The slogan for the wheel company is
something along the lines of just like original only better. I will
keep you all informed as the deal progresses.
Jack Stiefel Stiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 11:42:19 -0800
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Black Oxide / Anodizing
DML,
Has anyone ever attempted or looked into black oxide or anodizing their
stainless panels to alter the color without sacrificing the brushed metal
look?
Also- is it a common problem for panels to have an inconsistent finish?
Overall my panels have a dull finish, while here and there (especially on
the hood) there are patches of a very shiny finish. The brushing seems to
be consistent through the dull and shiny parts. I've used scotchbrite all
over the car, and it doesn't seem to alter the shininess. Is there
anything that I can do, or do I have to get them professionally re-brushed
to get a constant finish?
Thanks!
Dave-16228
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 11:49:11 -0800
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Starting problems.
This seems really weird to me, I just wanted to run it past the list...
My D only starts when it's cold. If I let it warm up, drive for about a
mile, and turn it off, it won't start. I can let it sit for a few hours
and it'll start up fine, or (the weird thing) I can give it a jump start.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 16:02:15 -0500
From: John Murray <jwmurray@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: The Jag Shop
Hello list,
In the past few DeLorean World issues have an advertisement for
DMC-Houston in which they state the aquiring of KAPAC and announce a new
DeLorean Shop in south Florida. The name is The Jag Shop. It is run by
David Wynne, yes Steven Wynne's nephew. I live here in south Florida and
still have not purchased a DMC-12 yet.(boy this is time consuming)I
stopped in to The Jag Shop after reading the ad in DW. I spoke to David
about their services. David said he has direct access to all parts from
Ohio and can and will do any and all DeLorean repairs. He had about 6 or
7 D's there and two were for sale. The first had 5000 miles and was in
almost perfect condition. The dash and binnicle were a bit faded and it
needed the relays changed, both reletivly inexpensive to fix. The other
had 37 orig miles, yes 37!! Both were 83's grey interior and both 5
speeds.
David opened the origional Texas location DeLorean One, when that used
to be the name. He also worked for Ed in California. Anyone with a
DeLorean in Florida or surrounding area should go see David for all your
DeLorean repairs. He is very polite and takes as much time as you want.
He also knows everything about DeLoreans which is a rarity in Florida.
Good Luck to all!
The Jag Shop
(954)783-5247 local
(888)783-5247 toll free
Ask for David!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 13:29:05 -0600
From: "James Hamilton" <a0003713@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Window Regulators
About two years ago I replaced my driver side window regulator to the new
and improved heavy duty regulator that is available at the normal parts
vendors. As you can expect it is very expensive. During this
installation
it was quite obvious that this part is a good substitute. This leads me
to
believe that this part is being munufactured for other autos and should be
available from local parts dealers ( at a much lower price) if only I
knew
how to identify it to them. This leads me to my request. If any of you
have the new regulator sitting on your shelve would you please look at it
to see if it has any identification as to who is the manufacturer.
Thanks,
Jim.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 17:08:29 EST
From: TGraham999 <TGraham999@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: More cold weather problems
Along with the annoying drooping doors that the cold weather has brought,
I am
also having problems shifting gears in my manual trans when the car has
been
sitting for while. It does not want to go into second gear when I crank
it up
in the mornings. After the car runs for a few minutes, it performs fine
and
always works great in warm weather. How can I remedy this error? Is this
just my gearbox oil needing replacement, or am I really screwed?
Thanks,
Travis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 22:55:17 -0600
From: "Micah Fryman" <nocoke2@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Starting problems.
> From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: Starting problems.
> Date: Thursday, December 18, 1997 1:49 PM
>
> This seems really weird to me, I just wanted to run it past the list...
>
> My D only starts when it's cold. If I let it warm up, drive for about a
> mile, and turn it off, it won't start. I can let it sit for a few hours
> and it'll start up fine, or (the weird thing) I can give it a jump start.
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks!
> Dave
Dave,
A friend and I on our way back from Aspen, Colarado for the 97 Delorean
Expo had the same problem. My friends car wouldn't start after being
warmed up. After checking everything possible, I decised to go back 30
miles to Aspen for a tow truck, but before I left I told my friend not to
try to start the car for an hour. After the hour went by, the car started
up and ran fine. I came to the comclusion that the check valve on the
fuel
pump wasn't holding enough pressure. Sure enough that was the problem. He
went ahead replaced it with a new fuel pump, since he had lucked out for
15
years. It was probably time anyway.
So Dave, I would check first of all to see if you have the early fuel pump
and replace it with the current recommended pump. If you do have the
updated up, try replacing the check valve. This should take care of the
problem. If you have any question give me an E-Mail at nocoke2@xxxxxxxxxx
Sincerely
Micah
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 01:03:09 -0800
From: cliff wallace <wlsms@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Starting problems.
Dave Price wrote:
>
> This seems really weird to me, I just wanted to run it past the list...
>
> My D only starts when it's cold. If I let it warm up, drive for about a
> mile, and turn it off, it won't start. I can let it sit for a few hours
> and it'll start up fine, or (the weird thing) I can give it a jump start.
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks!
> Dave
Dave your problem sounds like the good ole fuel (pressure) accumulator
most of us have come to know and eliminate. Lots of D's have been known
to have a hot starting problem. The other possibility could be your
check valve on your fuel pump. Most likely it's your fuel accumulator.
Jump starting will not help. This is a fuel system problem.
For now, your car should start after 10-12 seconds of constant cranking
(when hot). This is rough on the starter and the battery, but at least
you won't have to wait two hours for the engine to cool down. Most
foreign car repair shops who are familiar with the Bosch fuel system can
install the fuel accumulator. This part costs $110.00 if you purchase
it from one of the DMC suppliers like DMC Houston, PJ Grady, or the
non-courteous DeLorean One I've been hearing about. Good Luck!
CLiff Wallace
VIN #3773
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 23:02:27 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Black Oxide / Anodizing
At 11:42 AM 12/18/97 -0800, you wrote:
>DML,
>
>Has anyone ever attempted or looked into black oxide or anodizing their
>stainless panels to alter the color without sacrificing the brushed metal
>look?
>
>Also- is it a common problem for panels to have an inconsistent finish?
>Overall my panels have a dull finish, while here and there (especially on
>the hood) there are patches of a very shiny finish. The brushing seems to
>be consistent through the dull and shiny parts. I've used scotchbrite all
>over the car, and it doesn't seem to alter the shininess. Is there
>anything that I can do, or do I have to get them professionally re-brushed
>to get a constant finish?
>
>Thanks!
>Dave-16228
>
reply:
Hi Dave......there are a number of ways to do what you want, but they are
all expensive and there is no way to get a perfect match on all the
pannels. Before you start taking pannels off you might try something that
worked for me. My DMC had a similar problem except it was bright with a
few
dull areas, and some pannels appeared to be a different color of
stainless.
I tried using scotch Brit pad (the grey extra course pads from P.J.
Gradey)
and a 2X6 cut to the size of the scotch pad. To really clean and remove
the
surface of the stainless I also used Stainless Steel Cleaner from 3M (3M,
St Paul, MN 55144-1000 (612) 733-1110; operator 55.) It's important to
understand the the process begins with application of the cleaner, and
working it into the stainless surface, then using the p[ad and the block
to
"RUBB" the pad under the 2X6 block in exactly the same direction of the
burnishing lines. as you do this the surface will start turning black, on
each pass pick up the block and pad to do the area next to that last
pass(dont drag the pad side-ways for the next pass, when a panel or
section
is completed, then use soft absorb ant cloth to pick up the remaining
darkened cleaner. when you are finished you should have a very clean spot
free surface with a very thin film of mineral oils to protect the
stainless.
Every one has their own ideas on how to maintain the stainless, some use
wax, some oil, some nothing at all. You could even use clear laquar and
good ol'e past wax, it's all up to what you want your DMC to look like.
Good Luck
Lee
Vin#5729
Lic: 81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 22:13:33 +1100 (EST)
From: Steve <dmc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Toyota Gullwing Dudes
Just incase anyone wanted to get one, the Toyota Sera is fairly common in
New Zealand (selling for around NZ$16,000), and a few floating around in
Australia for around AU$25,000. I have no idea how much shipping would
cost,
let alone converting to LHD. Probably cheaper to get one from Japan. Just
thought you may be interested.
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 97 07:16:48 PST
From: "Brandon S. Moody" <bsmoody@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Starting problems.
> > This seems really weird to me, I just wanted to run it past the list...
> >
> > My D only starts when it's cold. If I let it warm up, drive for about a
> > mile, and turn it off, it won't start. I can let it sit for a few hours
> > and it'll start up fine, or (the weird thing) I can give it a jump start.
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Dave
> I came to the comclusion that the check valve on the fuel
> pump wasn't holding enough pressure. Sure enough that was the problem. He
> went ahead replaced it with a new fuel pump, since he had lucked out for
> 15
That almost sounds like a logical fix but the part about the "Jump Start"
is confusing me. From what I read, I asume that even if it is warm, by
giving it a jump start, It will start ? What exacly are you saying
when
it "won't Start" ? Doesn't turn-over OR, turns over but will not
actually
run ?
- -BM
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 10:01:35 -0400
From: skynet@xxxxxxxx (skynet)
Subject: DML: Not an owner yet !
Hello There!
I am not a DeLorean owner... but I hope I will be one day. I enjoy
reading this news to find out what is wrong with DeLoreans and how to
fix them. I think this kind of cooperation (questions and answers) is
what keep DeLoreans on the road otherwise they will be in junkyards or
as another ornament in a garage or in front of a house (with the doors
open as a kid's playing house).
My question is: Where Do I find ALL this Questions and Answers (past
ones) so that I know what or where to replace non working parts? Or
what to check when I go to buy one?
And... meanwhile... Are there any scales of DeLoreans? (plastic or
metal - I do have a hotwheel-size one) Where do I find them? Prices?
Thank you very much...!
J.J. Velazquez Escribano
PO Box 274
Aguas Buenas PR 00703-0274
787-732-6208
dmc-12@xxxxxxx
skynet@xxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 09:15:24 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DML Re: Starting problems - bad starter?
Believe it or not, I think Dave has is a very simple problem. If the car
will
not start with a warm engine UNLESS it gets jumped, then the starter is
probably worn out. Because of the thermal expansion of metal, it takes a
lot more torque to crank a hot engine than a cold engine. A worn-out
starter just doesn't have it. This can happen in any car.
The symptom that Dave didn't mention and I am assuming is that the
engine won't even crank when it is hot. I will bet that a new starter (or
even a rebuild of the old one, if he has a rebuild shop nearby) will get
Dave back on the road pronto.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 10:24:27 -0800
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Starting problems...
A big thanks to everyone that gave me suggestions, I'm sorry I wasn't a
little more specific about the problem..
When I turn the key and the car is warm, I hear a relay click behind the
passenger seat, but the engine doesn't crank at all. It's just dead
silence, no noises from the engine at all. When the car is cold, it
starts
right up, and does it's little rev-rev until warm.
When the car is warm, it does (eventually) start when I give it a jump.
However, it takes a while (5-30 min.) for jumping to work, so it may just
be that the car gets a chance to cool down. While I'm trying to jump it, I
get dead silence from the engine when attempting to start it, until it
finally works and turns over. ( although it does struggle when I do get it
to start warm ).
Thanks again for the input. I'm thinking it has more to do with the
starter or the solenoid than with the fuel pump, as the starter isn't
getting engaged.
Dave
16228
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #313
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