[DML] Digest Number 1826
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[DML] Digest Number 1826



There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Was Re: DeLorean leather seat covers Now  Long Term Storage
           From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. DeLorean at World of Wheels Boston?
           From: "f14dflyer" <f14dflyer@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. Re: Florida Tech meet
           From: "Andrei Cular" <acular@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      4. In Search Of: Stainless Steel repair
           From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      5. Bumps = Interior Lights Come On
           From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1@xxxxxxx>
      6. Re: Florida Tech meet
           From: "Scott Cagle" <dmc83n99@xxxxxxx>
      7. Oil filters and anti-drainback valves (was Re: The Motor Oil Issue)
           From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
      8. Re: DeLorean at World of Wheels Boston?
           From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. Speedometer problems
           From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
     10. Re: Bumps = Interior Lights Come On
           From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
     11. Re: Speedometer problems
           From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     12. Re: Speedometer problems
           From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     13. Re: Speedometer problems
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     14. Re: Speedometer problems
           From: "Stephen Card" <stephen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     15. Re: Speedometer problems
           From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
     16. Free Advice--It isn't Free to Anybody!
           From: "pjgrady2000" <tech@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     17. Re: In Search Of: Stainless Steel repair
           From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
     18. Re: Bumps = Interior Lights Come On
           From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     19. Re: seat cover ripple effect and installation
           From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
     20. Re: 20th Anniversary DeLorean World
           From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     21. New Problem
           From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
     22. General Maint.
           From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986@xxxxxxxxx>
     23. Re: DMC Jewelry
           From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain@xxxxxxxxx>
     24. Trademark Issues (WAS: DMC Jewelry)
           From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
     25. Stainless repair
           From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 03:49:13 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Was Re: DeLorean leather seat covers Now  Long Term Storage

I do hope when you have yourself buried in your Delorean you make sure
to have someone flush the brake fluid every 2 years and you remove the
gas and the battery. This way when your son digs you up the car will
be fresh and ready to run! Not you, but the car!!!!!!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> I agree. It seems that this is a great point in time to own a 
> Delorean. Between the growth of vendors, reproduction of parts, the 
> internet providing a point of information exchange, it's affordable 
> and feasible to own, maintain and restore DeLoreans. It also shows 

> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxx> wrote:
> > James,
> > 
> > This is great news.  The Delorean is getting close to other 
> collector 
> > cars like the old mustangs and camaros, GTO, etc.   where virtually 
> > every part is available.  This means the cars can last forever.  (I 
> > certainly intend on giving mine to my son.)  Deloreans will take 
> there 
> > place in history along with other historic muscle cars, because 
> they can 
> > be fully restored.
> > 
> > BOB




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Message: 2
   Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 05:32:02 -0000
   From: "f14dflyer" <f14dflyer@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean at World of Wheels Boston?

Just out of curiosity, does anyone know if there's going to be any DeLoreans at the 
World of Wheels show at Boston's Bayside Expo center this Saturday? A buddy and I 
are going and it'd be cool to see one there.

Thanks




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Message: 3
   Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 08:52:12 -0500
   From: "Andrei Cular" <acular@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Florida Tech meet

Ken

We are planning a weekend "Fridge Run" for feb 21.  And we will possibly get
the cars into a local parade in Fort Myers.



Andrei



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kKoncelik@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Florida Tech meet


> When is it
> I need to get out of the cold as well
>
> Ken
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
>  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 4
   Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 08:36:06 -0500
   From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: In Search Of: Stainless Steel repair

I'm hunting someone in the states that can bang some dents out of stainless.
I've got 2 t-panels I'd like to get fixed.

I'm Leonard Nimoy.



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Message: 5
   Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 14:37:47 -0000
   From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Bumps = Interior Lights Come On

Hi.  I am a new owner and have begun debugging my D.  Usually, when I 
hit a bump, the interior lights come on and sometimes go off but not 
always.  It's kinda comical but it's also annoying.  

I was thinking it could be the switches that hit the striker panel on 
the doors but I'm not sure.  Plus, I gotta REALLY slam those doors to 
close them!

I've noticed, (and maybe it's just me), that the later model doors 
seem to close a lot easier from all of the different test drives I've 
done.  Can someone confirm this?

Johnny
5518




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Message: 6
   Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 09:09:05 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
   From: "Scott Cagle" <dmc83n99@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Florida Tech meet

 
 The Florida tech meet sounds like an awesome idea to me also.  Just keep in
mind that there are a ton of us in the panhandle who would love to attend,
as well as Alabama and Georgia on the borders.  I believe a place like
Jacksonville or Lake City would be a good centralized area for all, as far
as how far it takes for one to drive from any point in the state.


Scott

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
   Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 14:25:41 -0000
   From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Oil filters and anti-drainback valves (was Re: The Motor Oil Issue)

 
> you are right on about everything that has to do with oil and 
reading the 
> weight lingo and such, but i think most owners are convinced that 
the purflux 
> filter is a better match to the engine than either Hastings or NAPA 
Gold.  Do the 
> ones you use have an anti-drain back valve? if not, you could be 
wearing your 
> engine down every time you start it for just a few cents savings!!  
i have 
> never tried either of those two.
> 
> Andy

The filters I use have the anti-siphon feature, however, they have a 
by-pass valve. I prefer a by-pass valve and, since I use a "w" that 
flows rather freely at cold temps I am not concerned about the by-
pass opening unless the filter clogged for some reason, which is 
unlikely. I didn't mean to criticize the Purflux filter; it was just 
not included in the tests I reviewed so I have decided not to use it. 

The Hastings filter performed the best for conventional filters in 
trapping the smallest contaminates in the tests I reviewed. There are 
better filters in the specialty area such as Amsoil, etc., and the 
cost is not that great if you have already bought into the synthetic 
oil price level. However, I don't think that additional level of 
protection is necessary.

Harold McElraft - 3354





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Message: 8
   Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 10:48:26 -0500
   From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean at World of Wheels Boston?


I've been to that show, and I've never seen one "in" the show.  But I might bring mine - you'll see it in the parking lot.  ;)

-Hank



> Just out of curiosity, does anyone know if there's going to be any DeLoreans at the 
> World of Wheels show at Boston's Bayside Expo center this Saturday? A buddy and I 
> are going and it'd be cool to see one there.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 



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Message: 9
   Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 15:51:07 -0000
   From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Speedometer problems

Dear List,
  Whenever my car gets a problem it gets it at the worst times it 
seems. 
  I left my car outside when the tempature drop hit Maryland and it 
is now in the 20's. Now my speedometer is not moving at all, the 
mileage dosen't change and no speed is shown. Please tell what I can 
do. I grease the angle drive every oil change and it was working fine 
before the temp drop.
  Has anyone had this problem before? Will I have to replace my angle 
drive again?
   Thanks once again,
      Kramer
      ~10610 




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Message: 10
   Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 11:54:01 -0500
   From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Bumps = Interior Lights Come On

Hi, welcome to the world of DeLoreans.

         My car suffered from the same type of a problem and the door ajar light would come on as well.  It turned out to be my door "plunger" switches were not being pushed in enough when my driver door was shut, and the slightest bounce would turn the light on (this also caused the door lights to stay on when the door was shut, which quickly killed my battery).  Vacu-Tite vaccum seal caps (7/32") from AutoZone fixed the problem perfectly when put on the end of the switches.  The interior lights should not be coming on with this problem unless they are in the position that makes them come on when the door is open.  
        The doors can be adjusted so that they shut much better.  The pins that the latch mechanism grabs hold of (technical term anyone?) can be loosened with the correct ratchet and moved around.  This is a time consuming process and takes much trial and error (at least it did for me), but eventually you should be able to shut the door efforlessly once it is hitting those pins in the correct spot.  Always move them a little at a time when experimenting because sometimes the door may become jammed shut.  I was told NEVER to try to mess with the hinges, always try to adjust the pins first.

Hope this helps a little,
Patrick
1880 





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Message: 11
   Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 10:49:53 -0800 (PST)
   From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Speedometer problems

Kramer,

Here's what I've done in the past to test. Loosen the lugs on the front
left wheel and raise the front of the car. Remove the wheel and check the
plastic cup in the center of the hub carrier which turns the angle drive.
It might have cracked from the temperature change. Remove the cap and try
turning the angle drive by hand. Does the speedo move? If so, it's the
cap. If not, disconnect the lower speedo cable from the lambda counter in
the driver's footwell (cable that goes from angle drive to the interior of
the car). When you turn the angle drive, does the lower speedo cable turn?
If not, disconnect the other end of the lower speedo cable (at the angle
drive). If the cable appears to be broken (turning one end doesn't turn
the other), you've got a bad cable. If the cable is fine, it's the angle
drive.

-Christian

On Thu, 8 Jan 2004, Kramer wrote:

> Dear List,
>   Whenever my car gets a problem it gets it at the worst times it
> seems.
>   I left my car outside when the tempature drop hit Maryland and it
> is now in the 20's. Now my speedometer is not moving at all, the
> mileage dosen't change and no speed is shown. Please tell what I can
> do. I grease the angle drive every oil change and it was working fine
> before the temp drop.
>   Has anyone had this problem before? Will I have to replace my angle
> drive again?
>    Thanks once again,
>       Kramer
>       ~10610
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
>  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 12
   Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 19:09:35 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Speedometer problems

Raise the front left wheel up. Disconnect the speedo cable from the
angle drive. Spin the wheel and look inside the end of the angle drive
to see if it is turning. If it isn't remove the wheel and turn the
square shaft by hand. If the angle drive still doesn't turn then it is
bad. If it does then the drive disc is worn. If the angle drive spins
when you spin the wheel then you have to check the lower cable. The 3
most likely causes of a dead speedo are:
Worn plastic drive disc (the square hole in the center rounds out)
Worn out angle drive (plastic gears on the O.E.M one)
Broken lower speedo cable (especially if the lower support bracket is
missing or broken)
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxx> wrote:
> Dear List,
>   Whenever my car gets a problem it gets it at the worst times it 
> seems. 
>   I left my car outside when the tempature drop hit Maryland and it 
> is now in the 20's. Now my speedometer is not moving at all, the 
> mileage dosen't change and no speed is shown. Please tell what I can 
> do. I grease the angle drive every oil change and it was working fine 
> before the temp drop.
>   Has anyone had this problem before? Will I have to replace my angle 
> drive again?
>    Thanks once again,
>       Kramer
>       ~10610




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Message: 13
   Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 21:58:43 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Speedometer problems

The only way to tell if your angle drive assembly is intact is to
visually inspect it (welcome to the world of automotive maintenance in
the winter -- cold, isn't it?). Take the wheel and drive disc off,
undo the lower speedo cable, and rotate the spindle cable manually. If
the lower cable receiver spins, the unit is OK.

The angle drive housing is not weathertight. If water has gotten
inside and frozen, it is possible your wheel disc or spindle cable are
damaged (weaker components than the gears themselves). 

If you are not already familiar with the RPM-MPH cross reference
chart, now is an ideal time:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Resource/rpm2mph.html

I used this info to make a customized chart -- I found it easier to
read rotated 90 degrees (MPH vertical and the Gears horizontal). I
also simplified it to include only the RPM's I normally experience,
which allowed a larger font. Here's a neat trick: if you tape the
chart to the instrument cluster lens (covering your non-functioning
speedo), illumination will show right through, making it readable
after dark. That's where you're used to looking for speed info anyway.
Send me your eMail address (brobertson(at)carolina.net) and I'll
return a copy of my chart (WordPerfect format). It is square, not
rectangular.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxx> wrote:
> Dear List,
>   Whenever my car gets a problem it gets it at the worst times it 
> seems. 
>   I left my car outside when the tempature drop hit Maryland and it 
> is now in the 20's. Now my speedometer is not moving at all, the 
> mileage dosen't change and no speed is shown. Please tell what I can 
> do. I grease the angle drive every oil change and it was working fine 
> before the temp drop.
>   Has anyone had this problem before? Will I have to replace my angle 
> drive again?
>    Thanks once again,
>       Kramer
>       ~10610




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Message: 14
   Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 22:22:22 -0000
   From: "Stephen Card" <stephen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Speedometer problems

Sounds like you may have water in the cable that has frozen. Have 
you lubricated the cables lately? Can you get the car into a heated 
garage for a while to see if the problem will go away after the 
lines thaw?
If it is a frozen cable you will want to check the dust cap to make 
sure the frozen cable didn't destroy the hole.
Just out of curiosity, what do you lubricate the angle drive with?
Thanks,
Stephen
Vin 3601




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Message: 15
   Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 00:35:47 -0000
   From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Speedometer problems

Kramer - The first thing you should do is to verify that the lower 
speedometer cable is functioning properly.  Disconnect it at the 
Lambda counter (under the dash near the pedals), jack the left front 
wheel up, and spin the tire.  You should be able to see the cable 
drive spin while the wheel is turning.  Another way is to disconnect 
the cable at the angle drive also, and spin the cable by hand to 
verify that the cable is not broken somewhere in the middle.  You 
should also inspect the plastic cap at the wheel to make sure that 
the center hole in the little "hub" is still square.  They can get 
rounded out, which prevents the cap from driving the angle drive 
input cable.  The end cap is also known to spin within the wheel, 
which causes the same problem ... no drive to the angle drive.  There 
are fixes for each of these conditions.  You can also have a failure 
of the upper speedometer cable that goes from the Lambda counter to 
the speedometer itself, but this is a rare failure mode.  We have 
improved lower speedo cables in stock, as well as new plastic caps 
(if replacement is required).  The only thing that we can't help you 
with is finding a warm garage to work in!

Toby Peterson
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxx> wrote:
> Dear List,
>   Whenever my car gets a problem it gets it at the worst times it 
> seems.  I left my car outside when the tempature drop hit Maryland 
and it is now in the 20's. Now my speedometer is not moving at all, 
the mileage doesn't change and no speed is shown. Please tell what I 
can do. I grease the angle drive every oil change and it was working 
fine before the temp drop.
>   Has anyone had this problem before? Will I have to replace my 
angle drive again?
>    Thanks once again,
>       Kramer
>       ~10610




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Message: 16
   Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 18:54:27 -0000
   From: "pjgrady2000" <tech@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Free Advice--It isn't Free to Anybody!

As usual David T. hit the nail on the head. Although I don't ALWAYS 
agree with his tech. advice (Not to worry 95% of the time isn't too 
shabby!)he consistently displays a depth of common sense and wisdom 
in a world where common sense is an uncommon commodity.Whew, thats a 
tongue twister! Maybe if people follow his advice venders will get 
more work done AND have more time to respond to tech. questions on 
the DML where it will benefit everyone.

BTW when I asked in my last post(#37992)"Isn't anyone brave on this 
list?" I completely forgot about Mark Levy. He privately reminded me 
that he is indeed brave and I completely concur. Remember all his 
posts on door lift pistons? Of course you do. He is one BRAVE 
dude! :) A little CONSTRUCTIVE criticism never hurt anyone (I think).

I also want to take this opportunity to thank everyone who responded 
to that post on the list. These comments mean the world to me. You 
can't buy advertising like that. (OK Christian your check is in the 
mail.:) Knut,if you would post our correspondence about my reference 
to you in the message it would clear up any confusion that may exist 
on that matter. Thanks ahead of time.

My good friend Mike Deluca sometimes refers to Debby and I 
as "Delorean Royalty". That usually embarrases me to no end but if 
you peaple keep this up I may just start believing him! I'll know 
this has  happened when I start walking around with my nose tilted 
upward and speaking in "Locust Valley Lockjaw"!
 
Anyway,thanks to all once again.

Sincerely,
Rob Grady
P.J.Grady Inc.




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Message: 17
   Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 00:43:40 -0000
   From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: In Search Of: Stainless Steel repair

Travis - A member of PNDC (Seattle area) knows of a shop here that 
has done an excellent job of stainless sheet metal repair on a 
damaged DeLorean.  If you would like further information, please 
contact me off-list and I will get you the detailed information for 
this shop.  In addition, PNDC has long used Dally's Autobody, up in 
Mount Vernon, Washington, for DeLorean body repairs.  Mr. Bonner, the 
owner, was trained by DMC in the "stainless arts", and has been an 
extremely  valuable resource.

Toby Peterson
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com  


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm hunting someone in the states that can bang some dents out of 
stainless.
> I've got 2 t-panels I'd like to get fixed.





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Message: 18
   Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 19:14:38 -0500
   From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bumps = Interior Lights Come On

Johnny,
When you get tired of tweaking your door switches with pieces of rubber
tubing try my new proximity switches at
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7u0gn/id1.html

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 9:37 AM
Subject: [DML] Bumps = Interior Lights Come On


> Hi.  I am a new owner and have begun debugging my D.  Usually, when I
> hit a bump, the interior lights come on and sometimes go off but not
> always.  It's kinda comical but it's also annoying.




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Message: 19
   Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 11:52:46 -0800 (PST)
   From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: seat cover ripple effect and installation

These *will* have the "ripple effect"down the centers like the originals. I know what you mean about the replacements NOT having this effect. The set I bought in 1996 for my car was lacking this, and I was kind of disappointed (they came from Swedish Autoservice, RIP).

I am cautiously optimistic that we will be able to use the repro vinyl (with another emboss job on top of the grain) to re-create the vinyl used on the sides of the consoles and kneepads. Then we will have "console re-cover" kits, too. THAT will be cool, too.

As far as installing the seat covers, I recommend that they be taken to a local upholstery shop and installed by a professional. It's true that it can be done yourself with the right tools, but if you take the seats out of the car yourself (4 nuts, very easy) and take them into the shop, you should be able to get it done for less than $100.

James Espey
DMC (Texas)

Louie wrote:

Not to badger you to death with questions James, but I'm assuming these 
repros will have the proper rippled look to them? I've seen some of the 
replacement seatcovers some people put in their cars, and they lack this
 detail. I'm interested in buying new seatcovers just so I can get this 
look back into my car. As everyone knows our seats shrink and dry out 
with age, and lose their original ripple effect.



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Message: 20
   Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 16:44:11 -0500
   From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 20th Anniversary DeLorean World

Scott Mueller wrote:

> I received my 20th Anniversary Edition DeLorean World today.
>
> It is a very nice issue and includes a DVD with nice DeLorean drive by

> action shots.

My 20th Anniversary copy of DW arrived yesterday.  This issue is very
spiffy.  The cover makes it look more like a book than a magazine, and
it's full of nice, classy touches that set it apart.

In a market currently crowded with DeLorean magazines, the DVD is a
highlight.  I believe the video is an advertisement for DeLorean One,
though subtly so.  It is one commercial that I really enjoyed watching.
It has no speaking, just music playing to action shots of a DeLorean
driving (fast) and stills of the most attractive parts of a DeLorean.
It left me yearning for the snow to melt so I can get my DeLorean out
and drive like that.  Perhaps no quite so fast.

The video is similar to the famous one that JZD used to attract
investors, but made to 21st century standards.  It makes DeLorean
ownership seem very appealing.  If you are trying to convince a friend
to buy a DeLorean, show them this little video.

I plan to bring my copy of the DVD to the DeLorean Club of Ohio Annual
meeting on January 17th at Maumee Bay State Park Lodge.

I only played the DVD in a regular DVD player; I haven't tried it in a
computer yet.  Has anyone checked to see if it has any files other than
the video?

- Mike Substelny




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Message: 21
   Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 13:29:08 -0800 (PST)
   From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New Problem

Hello everyone,
   I want to personally take a second to thank everyone here for all your inputs on my past problems.  I have met 1 or 2 people here who have actually come to my requests/pleas for help, and without some of my friends here coming to my rescue - I would be so lost with this car.  Thank you to those of you who have helped me and taught me things on the DeLorean in regards to how things work and how to repairs this car - I couldn't own this car without you.
 
  As everyone here knows, I have had alot of troubles/learning experiences with Vin #3299.  I had the computer governor replaced, vacuum modulator replaced, torque converter rebuilt, high pressured the fuel lines, applied the major service kit (tune up), changed all the fluids, replaced the struts, replaced the oxygen sensor, fixed some leaks, applied a bleeding kit, installed the SS coolant bottle, replaced the ferquency valve and the line from the valve to the distributor, cleaned all my relays and fuses, repaired the otterstat wiring, installed FanZilla, replaced a second set of spark plugs due to the car running rich, replacing the heatshield, 2 batteries with new battery bolts, repaired the mircoswitch to fix her high (2500 rpm) idle problem, and am about to replace my rotors.....all in the first month =)...however; there is a new problem - I open the floor to everyone's input on this one:
  
(AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION)Go out to drive the car.  Start car - VROOM.  Go drive for a bit as the car warms up as normal.  Once the car is warm, I will stop and park go eat, whatever.  Come back to car, start car up (Obviously it has warmed up by now).  I shift from park to reverse...the car will sit for 2 seconds or so THEN it will shift.  It doesn't shift immediately; it shifts after about 2 seconds from taking the shift lever from park to reverse.  Obviously this isn't normal.  Does anyone have any ideas?  It doesn't seem to do this when the car is cold; it only really seems to do this when the car has warmed up.  
 
 


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Message: 22
   Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 21:21:00 -0000
   From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: General Maint.

 Doe's anyone know where to get a DeLoean serviced for collision 
repair in a state that does not have any DeLoean speciality shops? 
I'm trying my hardest to buy Matt Goodwin's '83 D (VIN 16130) but I 
do not want to have to take it all the way to Houston if something 
happens to the cosmitic's or chasis etc.
             Thanks for any info.
                             Josh




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Message: 23
   Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 02:50:33 -0000
   From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Jewelry

My wedding ring is 304 Stainless. Looks great, and never causes any 
irritations (almost like my car)

My wife works for an SS manufacturer and her friends can make rings 
all day long for nothing out of scrap. I had been pondering producing 
rings for sale on ebay. PM me if you or anyone has any ideas or 
desires for DMC jewelry.

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxx> 
wrote:
> I would really like to have a "DMC" ring.
> 
> Does anyone know who makes any?
> 
> I noticed in the Summer 88 issue of Delorean World on page 33 there
> was a guy named  "Eugene Tufaro" who was making and selling 14k gold
> rings with the "DMC" embossed on top.
> Does any one know who he is and if he still makes these?
> 
> Actually, I would rather have a "silver" colored ring, but I hate
> sterling silver beacause it is hard to keep a shine.
> It scratches and dents real easy.
> I wear several Harley Davidson rings, one is made of steel and it
> looks great... so it got be to thinking of having a ring made for me
> out of stainless steel (that's only right after all!).
> I was told that you can't cast a stainless ring, that it must be 
cut or
> rolled off on a lathe in the exact size.
> 
> So unless someone knows where I can get something simular this is 
my plan.
> 
> My plan is to either buy or have made the actual ring, then we will
> file down the top and drill a few anchor holes in it.
> Then my plan is to use one of those cool little "original" "DMC" tie
> tacks, and modify it to mount on top.
> Not only does this make things easier, but since I am not MAKING a
> logo but simply taking an original peice of DMC made jewelry then I
> would not be re-creating anything and therefore not violating any
> trademarks since James Espey would surely have something to say 
about.
> 
> I have a number of these little tie tacks, (don't ask to buy one, I 
am
> keeping them for these rings).
> 
> If anyone is interested in one of these rings, I would have to have
> your exact size as they can NOT be re-sized.
> I am guessing the price would be between $100 - $200 each depending
> on size and style.
> There are several stainless rings out there that I am looking at.
> Some of them are "comfort fit" and are beveled and designed.
> Others are simple, like a cut of pipe.
> So depending on what type of actual ring that you would want would
> determine the price.
> I will be making MINE first and will let everyone take a look at it
> before they make orders.
> 
> Thanks.
> - Videobob
> VIN# 5278
> http://www.dfwdmc.com




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Message: 24
   Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 18:44:08 -0800 (PST)
   From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Trademark Issues (WAS: DMC Jewelry)

I have no specific beef with DMC, my goal here is to
share what I have learned about the DMC trademark from
minimal research on the Internet with list members. 
Anyone, including DMCH, is welcome to supply me (or
the list) with information which contradicts what I
have found.

It has been asked what my personal involvement with
this issue is, so I state here that I have no personal
interest in using the logos, nor do I represent anyone
else who does.  At no point have I yet had the need to
use either of these logos for any reason.  My purpose
again is to have the truth made public (even if my
research results are incorrect).  My risk of looking
like a moron (something I do well, and often) is my
own if I am incorrect.

Back to the issue at hand.  James may be a friendly
guy (to you), but he has yet to address the
information I have provided to the list a number of
times..  that is, the ORIGINAL "DMC" logo trademark is
listed as "Dead" in the official database
(http://www.uspto.gov/).  The modified logo that is
owned by DMCH is NOT the logo that anyone else would
want to use.  I am not a lawyer, but silence on this
matter could be considered failure to enforce their
rights (which I am told cannot be selectively
enforced)

By claiming that a number of big-name companies have
made agreements with DMCH to use the logo just means
that either those companies did not know what they
were buying, or felt the fee DMCH demanded was less
costly than possible legal action.  I wonder if this
is why the toys I saw at Universal Florida last week
did not have the DMC logo?  What a shame, that all of
the kids (and adults) buying those toys are not
exposed to the logo.  Lets face it, a good number
(maybe even majority) or DeLorean owners were fist
exposed to the car by BTTF.

Every once in a while, I get a good idea.. And when I
discuss it with anyone I know, they always say "Hey,
get a patent!".  I always laugh, getting a patent on
anything is a matter of filling out some papers and
paying a fee.  It means nothing until it has been
challenged, and successfully held up in court.  THAT
can cost LOTS of money, and aggravation.  Same goes
for Copyright and Trademarks.

It is likely that there is no product anyone can make
using the DMC logo that would be worth the expense and
effort to defend in court.  Be it a part, jewelry, or
a tee shirt.  Maybe some Lawyer type on the list will
do it themselves just for the principal of it.

FWIW, I think copyrights and trademarks are VERY
important.  Many companies spend LOTS of money to
build a reputation behind their logos.  Frankly, this
is not the case with DMCH.  They just happen to have
the name "DeLorean Motor Company", they just happen to
be the owner of the majority of leftover physical
assets from the REAL DMC, and they just happen to have
a copyright registered on a similar logo..  None of
this makes them the company that built our cars in the
80's....  And no one from DMCH has supplied any
information contrary to this.

... And Rob asked "Isn't anybody brave on this list?".
 Yes Rob, there are a few but Not enough.  Or maybe
the brave are censored?

Marc

--- Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>

> copies made. As you seem well aware of, there's also
> the copyright issue. You can always CALL James and
> see what he has to say.  He's actually a truly
> friendly guy, and has gone out of his way to help me
> on many occasions. Maybe you can have these made,
> and sell them to DMC-Houston. You never know until
> you call. Good luck and keep us informed about this
> project :-).

<SNIP>







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Message: 25
   Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 18:04:46 -0800 (PST)
   From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Stainless repair

Travis, Try DENT WIZARD, had major damage to driver door and is completely restored.   Located in South Florida and is truly a miracle worker, the work was mostly done with a series of rods.  Any major shop that specializes in "dent repairs" should be able to help, most will come out to you.  But make sure they have experience working with stainless most do.  Ofcoarse pictures of previous work help, to make sure they know what they are doing.  The damage was unbelievable, door was crumbled and didn't even close all the way, still only cost me $400 to fix.  A guarantee of not paying unless it was perfect and to my liking was a added bonus (i.e nothing to lose) if your t-panels are that bad.  Saved me over $3000 and can't complain, just my experience and two cents hope this helps.





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