 
[DML] Re: High idle post tune up
   
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
[DML] Re: High idle post tune up
- From: "jpalatinus" <jpalatinus@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 04:37:37 -0000
So I didn't take the intake manifold off to change the distributor cap.  I didn't even remove 
the mixture control unit. I removed the 2 hex bolts that hold the mixture control unit to 
the intake and the 4 bolts on the rear of the intake so I could lift up the mixture control 
unit and reach the distributor cap.  I did some rearranging of vacuum hoses to their proper 
configuration and normalized the idle for a little while, but after going for a drive it 
started to rev on its own to ~3000 rpm.  I noticed that by disconnecting the idle speed 
motor or by pushing on it I could normalize the idle too.  I think I might try to switch the 
idle speed motor for the one on my other car, and see if that corrects the problem
If I remember correctly disconnecting the idle speed motor when the car is idling should 
cause the engine to stop right? 
Thanks all for your helpful suggestions
Joe P.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Toby Peterson" <Toby@...> wrote:
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jpalatinus" <jpalatinus@> wrote:
> 
> Joe - The first place that I would look is the white 9-pin bulkhead 
> connector that is located just below the blue connector behind the 
> coil cover.  Several of the pins in that white connector are involved 
> in the idle speed circuit.  If you have a bad connection there due to 
> contamination, corrosion, loose pins or sockets, etc., then the idle 
> speed circuit will become "wonky" as our British friends would say.  
> You would be well served to also check and verify all connections 
> along the way in the idle speed circuit.  I assume that you have a 
> proper wiring diagram that you can use for electrical diagnostics.  
> Also, assuming (again) that you removed the intake manifold for all 
> of this major tune-up work, you will want to make sure that the 
> throttle quadrant rod and associated mechanisms are all correctly 
> situated and working smoothly.  Make sure that the vacuum lines to 
> the vacuum solenoid are correctly positioned per the vacuum diagram.  
> That also makes a difference in timing and fuel control pressure at 
> certain temperatures.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DMC Northwest
> DeLorean Parts Northwest
> 
> >
> > Anyway She used to idle right below 1000rpm.  Now she runs fine, 
> but is idling so high (2500rpm) I thought something might be pulling 
> the throttle. (nothing is)  I imagine that I disconnected some minute 
> hose or some wire that is of critical importance to keeping a low 
> idle.  Any ideas on what I screwed up?  Or better yet how to fix it?
>
------------------------------------
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnewsYahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/
<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
    mailto:dmcnews-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
    mailto:dmcnews-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN
 Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN