dmcnews-digest Monday, December 14 1998 Volume 03 : Number 453
In this issue:
DML: RE: front facia repair
DML: Eyebrows
DML: Incomplete lowering job..
DML: PRV signification
DML: stripe down middle
DML: re:clutch $lippage
DML: North Carolina "D" for sale
DML: RE: QUOTE
DML: OVERHEATING!
DML: Transmission Slippage
Re: DML: Engine name and specs
DML: RE: trailer hitch
Re: DML: RE: front facia repair
DML: jack stands vs.ramps?
DML: Re: Incomplete lowering job..
DML: Weak Trailing Arm Bolts
DML: Cooling System
DML: LUG NUTS WON'T BUDGE
DML: Re: stripe down middle
DML: RE: jack stands vs.ramps?
Re: DML: OVERHEATING!
Re: DML: RE: QUOTE
Re: DML: jack stands vs.ramps?
DML: Tricks required for TA bolt replacement
Re: DML: LUG NUTS WON'T BUDGE
Re: DML: Transmission Slippage
Re: DML: OVERHEATING!
DML: Re: Cooling System & OVERHEATING!
Re: DML: Cooling System
DML: Re: OVERHEATING!
DML: Headliners
DML: Re: OVERHEATING!
DML: DeLreanmotor Club?
Re: DML: Transmission Slippage
DML: Rear Control Arms? Adjustable?
DML: RE: Chevy Engine / Transmission slippage
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 02:37:03 -0500
From: Gerald Deutsch <Jerry1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: front facia repair
I would be interested in knowing how to repair these eyebrows as well...
Can anyone give a detailed description? ---Dan
- ----------
From: AARON MILLS[SMTP:AARON1@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, December 11, 1998 1:03 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: front facia repair
Does anyone know the owner of the back to future D/1998 D? Is he on the
DML? He found a way to repair the "eyebrows" on the front facia. I
remimber how he did it, but don't remimber the type/dementions of steel
nor the type of epoxy/glue used. Any help would be greatly appreciated
(this is my big winter project).
Aaron
vin11554
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------------------------------
Date: 11 Dec 1998 13:53:16 -0600
From: Dave.Sontos@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Eyebrows
Does anyone have a method for removing the eyebrows from the front facia?
I
have the front facia off now to be repainted and want to straighten out
the
eyebrows before I have it painted. I searched the database to no avail.
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 04:31:40 -0800
From: "Dave Price" <davep2@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Incomplete lowering job..
My DeLorean had been lowered by the previous owner, but apparently the
camber wasn't adjusted to compensate for it. Could someone tell me a
little
about how/if the camber can be adjusted for the rear wheels?
Thanks!
- -Dave
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 10:41:05 -0500
From: "Klotz Franck" <klotz@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: PRV signification
just for information, the PRV means" Peugeot, Renault, Volvo ", and this =
engine was developed in a team.
This was a approach to reduce the number of differents engine, engine =
parts and cost in europe, and the same (nearly the same motor) was in =
all 3 brand names cars.
For exemple, the DMC engine was also in the Renault 30 and renault 25, =
or the peugeot 505, peugeot 605, Volvo 760 or 260.
The transmission was a Renault fuego.
Franck Klotz
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 17:14:04 +0000 (GMT)
From: Beau Saxon <beausaxon@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: stripe down middle
hi everyone
i was wondering if any of you guys has ever seen a delorean with
a stripe down the middle, not the one on the side. and are there pics?
also, where can i get the delorean font? i hope yall can help me and
id love to talk to anyone that lives near newnan, ga.
thanx,
Beau Saxon
(beausaxon) - aol
(15175516) - icq
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 98 12:04:25 -0600
From: David Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: re:clutch $lippage
Soulman wrote:
>Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 16:23:50 -0500
>From: allsun <allsun@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: DML: Re: clutch slippage
>
>Hi Joe! Are there any stock "Upgrades" available. What's a Ballpark cost
>for a
>"complete clutch Job"? Merry Xmas, Soulman
Grady sells a whole kit of clutch stuff for $350 OEM, about $400
Centerforce. Includes disc, plate, t/o bearing, pilot bearing, and grease
seal. Other sources are comparable. Master/Slave Cylinders, linkage and
braided line are extra. Obviously if you are not into do-it-yourself
you'll have to pay for several hours labor.
You'll have to get the flywheel resurfaced locally, another $40-50. It
has pins that need to be removed and put back in, and it is a stepped
surface that must be maintained so don't just let the local auto parts
brake rotor monkey do it - go to a real automachine shop.
This is also the best time to replace the slave cylinder whether it's
leaking or not, it is a total pain while on the car.
Check the trans for leakage, while its out is a great time to replace
axle seals. There are also two seals around the input shaft, two around
the shifter, plus a couple of gaskets. All but the axle seals require you
to disassemble all or part of the transmission, so these are in the realm
of the advanced do-it-yourselfer. All are readily available. You'll also
want to check the engine rear main seal, easily accessible with the trans
out.
In short - be ready to drop $600-800 by the time you're all done, more if
you have to pay for labor. And use real jack stands and a hydraulic jack
- - the trans weighs about 140 pounds as it comes out of the car.
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 14:07:34 -0500
From: "yugoman" <mdrig@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: North Carolina "D" for sale
This is not my car but if anyone's interested I may be able to check it
out
for you. From today's Greensboro newspaper :
81 Delorean, like new, 18,500 actual miles, $19,500. 336-621-2433
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 12:15:13 -0800
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: QUOTE
There's a song on the Alan Parsons album 'ON AIR' that has the line:
"When the wind gets under these wings, you will feel what freedom
brings"
I used that on the header for my DeLorean home page for a while because
it reflected my feelings of exhilaration when driving the car. The song
is
actually about Icarus and his son, who, while flying too close to the
sun on the wings his father made, crashed into the sea, hence the name
of the song: 'Too close to the sun'. In a way the DeLorean story mirrors
that fable.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DMC_12@xxxxxxxxx [mailto:DMC_12@xxxxxxxxx]
> Could someone tell me how the quote went that i read in the Grand
> DeLusions book about JZD saying something about, "when the
> wind hits the
> wings you will see freedom" (or something like that, thanx
> for any help)
================================================================
Ken Montgomery VIN #10911 Work : (916) 278-7646
Sacramento, CA 'OUTTIME' Home : (916) 944-3252
Founder, Northern California DeLorean Motor Club 'NCDMC'
Please visit my website at:
http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean01.htm kenm@xxxxxxxx
================================================================
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 15:41:13 EST
From: RICHAJG@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: OVERHEATING!
I haven't driven my DeLorean in 2 months. I cranked it up this morning
and
jumped in the shower. Luckily, someone noticed my DeLorean was
overheating -
word got to me quickly.
I stopped the engine 20 minutes after it had been started. The temp
gauge was
pinned. There's no way to tell how long the car had ran in the red zone.
I checked the coolent level... and not surprisingly, the coolant was
virtually
gone. I filled the coolent level just shy of topping off and started the
car
back up a couple hours later. This time I sat there and watched the temp
gauge carefully.
Within 15 minutes of starting it up this time, the temp gauge started to
hit
the first red mark (240 degrees) and so, I immediately turned the car
off.
A friendly neighbor was with me at the time and said he thought the
coolant
wasn't circulating thru the engine. (All the while the car was running
during
that 15 minute period, he had his hands on two of the hoses to see if
there
was coolant flow).
Does anyone know what the problem could be? Any suggestions? My neighbor
seems to think it could either be the temp gauge or may be the water pump.
Your input is much appreciated!
Rich Galichon
#2088
p.s. I called Rob Grady this morning right away. Unfortuantely, he's
booked
up so I won't be able to see him until mid-January. Bummer!!!!!
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 16:38:09 EST
From: MBell14632@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Transmission Slippage
I recently installed a 350 Chevrolet with approximately 275 hp coupled to
a
modified automatic in my Delorean. Under heavy acceleration (with the
car in
motion) I am experiencing slippage. The fluid pressure is o.k. Under
normal
driving the car runs and handles extremely well. Any thoughts? Thanks
for
any help on this matter.
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 16:46:45 EST
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Engine name and specs
On the subject of "Delorean modified engines",what does that mean? What is
modified that a stock B28F,engine,from say, a Volvo,keep you from dropping
that into a Delorean?From all outside boltup appearences,it would seem
that a
stock B28F,would just bolt right in including,the intake,and fuel
inj.system.The only difference I could see is replacement of the water
pump
and possible oil pan.
Claude
Vin#00570
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 15:03:16 +0000
From: "darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: trailer hitch
When Lane Hoggson built his front-half DeLorean trailer a few years back,
he
also had a very trick totally bolt-on (to existing holes) receiver-type
hitch made. It was very simple, and adequate for a small trailer. That
trailer has passed through several owners, and is now being purchased,
with
the hitch, by PNDC President Arnie Brandon. I don't know if you could
persuade him or son-in-law Gary Hull to maybe provide you with photos.
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 21:19:19 -0500
From: Paul Gress <pgress@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: RE: front facia repair
I had mine repaired by PJ Grady, he simply used 3/16 x 1 inch aluminum bar
and bonded it with polyurethane (from the tube).
Paul Gress
vin # 10193
Gerald Deutsch wrote:
> I would be interested in knowing how to repair these eyebrows as well...
> Can anyone give a detailed description? ---Dan
>
> ----------
> From: AARON MILLS[SMTP:AARON1@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Friday, December 11, 1998 1:03 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: front facia repair
>
> Does anyone know the owner of the back to future D/1998 D? Is he on the
> DML? He found a way to repair the "eyebrows" on the front facia. I
> remimber how he did it, but don't remimber the type/dementions of steel
> nor the type of epoxy/glue used. Any help would be greatly appreciated
> (this is my big winter project).
> Aaron
> vin11554
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 22:36:47 -0500
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatin@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: jack stands vs.ramps?
>Cinder Blocks make terrible jack stands as you so well described in your
>post. Please only use jack stands.
Reading the posts about the Delorean jack breaking sort of scared me. I
dont get under a car with jacks under them, but I have been using ramps
instead. It is hell to back the car up just so it wont go over the ramps,
should I be using jack stands instead, or can I keep my ramps?
Joe P.
VIN 6808
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 00:57:37 -0500
From: "R. Starling" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Incomplete lowering job..
Hey, Dave I know the answer to this one.
My D was also lowered by the previous owner also. The work was performed
at
Delorean Motor Center. What you need is a set of adjustable lower control
arms for the rear. These in June of this year were $295.00.
My Delorean was lowered 4 inches in the front and 2 inches in the rear.
The
camber setting in the front should be at 1/2 degree and the rear at a 8/10
neg.. degree. My Delorean was the first to ever have these installed. I
can
tell you that I am getting perfect tire wear.
You can call Don at Delorean Motor Center at (714)554-6794 about getting
your own set. ( Mine are not for sale )
Regards,
Rob Starling
Vin# 5252
Web sight "Stainless Steel Dream"
http://www.freeyellow.com/members5/stainlesssteel/index.html
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Price <davep2@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: DMCNews <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Saturday, December 12, 1998 2:20 PM
Subject: DML: Incomplete lowering job..
>My DeLorean had been lowered by the previous owner, but apparently the
>camber wasn't adjusted to compensate for it. Could someone tell me a
>little
>about how/if the camber can be adjusted for the rear wheels?
>
>Thanks!
>
>-Dave
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 01:19:44 -0600
From: cliff wallace <wms0@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Weak Trailing Arm Bolts
My "D" had 28,000 miles on it when I got my trailing arm bolts replaced.
The bolt on the right hand side was bent in the middle. The only way to
remove it was to saw it off. Our Delorean suppliers recommend replacing
both sides when doing this job. The new trailing arm bolts they supply
you are more durable than the old weak ones. I went ahead and had the
lower control arm bushing replaced on the passenger side while I had it
in the shop. It was split in four directions. This is one service that
is strongly recommended, otherwise you'll have excessive wear on your
tires, wheel bearings, and bushings. And if further ignored, well just
check out Mike's last post dmcnews-digest V3 #452.
Keep 'er safe
Cliff W.
#3773
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 20:11:35 +1100
From: "R. Haslewood" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Cooling System
Hey fellas,
Dad and I took delivery of our DeLorean this morning, and after spending
about 4 hours tinkering around, we have a couple of questions about the
cooling system.
Since the car has had very little use over the years, the coolant is in
need
of changing, and the water in the bottle has turned a muddy colour. Dad
plans to run a cleaning solution through the system then re-fill it with
fresh coolant.
His question to you guys is: what is the best method of doing this, and is
there any special technique for bleeding the coolant system?
Just in case you were wondering, we LOVE our new car! The car alarm system
is a bit of a hassle, and the decal behind the dials in the centre-consol
(below the radio) seems to be stuck on crooked, but other than that
everything's cool. It will take a few months of work to get it in tip-top
condition, but working on it is half the fun of owning it.
As for the "crowd-magnatism" the car seems to have, we didn't get too many
on-lookers when we drove it home. Although, we did get the occasional
quizzical glance from people at the gas station we pulled into, and the
guys
that live across the street were watching from their drive way as we
fiddled
with the cooling system. We have yet to take it to the streets of our home
town (we were considering a run to McDonalds on the way, but decided to
get
it home and out of the blazing summer sun), but it should be interesting
to
see what happens next time we take it for a spin.
Anyway, I'd like to thank you all for answering my questions before we
bought the car, and without this mailing list I probably wouldn't know
jack
about DeLoreans. Thanks again.
R. Haslewood,
Sydney Australia
http://www.zip.com.au/~delorean/
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 02:56:40 -0700
From: mike atkinson <mikeatk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: LUG NUTS WON'T BUDGE
Hello all,
First, I would like to thank James and everyone else who were at the
meet tonight in Scottsdale. I talked my wife into attending or at least
coming along and I think she really enjoyed it. Had to leave the group
much sooner than I wanted to feed the kids, but she really enjoyed
looking at six different DeLorean's and several of the other cars. I
think she liked telling the boys about a couple of cars she saw and had
driven at one time or another. Parent story's.
She was impressed with the enthusiasm of the other DeLorean owners and
there varied ages which for me says a lot for the car.
Anyway, I tried removing the left front tire the other day to take a
look at the angle drive and lube it. The lug nuts were locked tight.
After trying the others with the same result I borrowed a breaker bar
and still could not get them free. I was afraid to keep going or use
anymore force since I might break a stud. Apparently a neanderthal had
tightened them down.
Should I wait and take the car to a tire shop and have them use an air
gun on it, or just try some break free or other lube on it?
Downside if any, she still likes the black interior better. "it's hot"
Oh well.
Thanks
Mike Atkinson
vin 16232
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 14:48:50 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: stripe down middle
Beau,
Sorry, but the answer is NO to both your questions. But you will be happy
to know we're not too far from you, we're in Peachtree City.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / Happy Holiday's / dmcjoe@xxxxxxx
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 21:29:20 -0500
From: Gerald Deutsch <Jerry1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: jack stands vs.ramps?
Joe,=20
I use ramps. Of course only when I don't have to take the wheels off. =
But what I do is I take my hydraulic floor jack and put it under the =
engine cradle part of the frame (very carefully and with a thin piece of =
wood between the jack and the frame...), and I jack the car up until I =
can fit the ramps under the wheels. Then I lower the car onto the ramps =
(slowly...). Easy as pie and totally safe! So, keep the ramps, they work =
for me. ---Dan
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 22:55:59 -0500
From: Paul Gress <pgress@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: OVERHEATING!
Sounds to me you need to replace the thermostat, it must not be opening
up.
Also while your at that, since you overheated the engine, I would
re-torque
the heads down to try and prevent blowing a head gasket.
Paul Gress
vin # 10193
RICHAJG@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I haven't driven my DeLorean in 2 months. I cranked it up this morning
> and jumped in the shower. Luckily, someone noticed my DeLorean was
> overheating - word got to me quickly.
>
(SNIP)
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Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:28:18 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: RE: QUOTE
At 12:15 PM 12/12/98 -0800, you wrote:
>There's a song on the Alan Parsons album 'ON AIR' that has the line:
>"When the wind gets under these wings, you will feel what freedom
>brings"
>I used that on the header for my DeLorean home page for a while because
>it reflected my feelings of exhilaration when driving the car. The song
>is
>actually about Icarus and his son, who, while flying too close to the
>sun on the wings his father made, crashed into the sea, hence the name
>of the song: 'Too close to the sun'. In a way the DeLorean story mirrors
>that fable.
>
reply:
I would have to disagree with your assessment Ken :-)
Icarus was not at fault at all for the failure of his wings, any good
designer would have know in the hands of a test pilot the wings would be
subject to many unusual stresses. Attaching the feathers with wax while
high tech at the time was the reason Icarus was forced to make an
unscheduled landing in the Sea.
JZD's failure was political in nature and had nothing to do with the
DMC-12's wings which by the way are not held together with wax!
:-)......snicker. snicker. FDLVH!
Lee ......the Mur-thy-full
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Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:34:40 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: jack stands vs.ramps?
At 10:36 PM 12/12/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>Cinder Blocks make terrible jack stands as you so well described in your
>>post. Please only use jack stands.
>Reading the posts about the Delorean jack breaking sort of scared me. I
>dont get under a car with jacks under them, but I have been using ramps
>instead. It is hell to back the car up just so it wont go over the ramps,
>should I be using jack stands instead, or can I keep my ramps?
>
>Joe P.
>VIN 6808
>
reply:
Hey Joe,
I did that the first time I used ramps! what a surprise! GerrrThunk!
ooop's.
I had to jack up my D and pull out the ramps and start again. But I have
a
solution.
I went out and got two cheep mirror tiles for .50 cents each at the tile
shop and cut two 4X6 pine blocks with a grove in each from corner to
corner
diagonally. Put the mirrors in the groves and placed them near the end of
the ramp so I could see both side and rear views at the same time. Now
when
I back on to the ramps I can see exactly where my tire is on the ramp.
Hope this helps you!
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 05:50:51 -0500
From: "Mike Thomas" <comptrol@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Tricks required for TA bolt replacement
MANY tricks are required to inspect / replace this bolt.
First, both sides on my car have three studs sticking down through the =
fiberglass with locknuts holding on the inspection cover. Both sides =
have studs that spun around when I put a wrench on the locknut. Hence, =
the Dremel tool requirement. PJ Grady sells a plate with three welded =
studs to replace this assembly.
Second problem is you need to create a special wrench to get one of the =
locknuts tight holding the bushing assembly. You can't see or feel this =
locknut, not even through the bolt since the bolt goes into a threaded =
bracket on the frame. Getting the locknut on took me three hours with a =
specially bent wrench drilled and equipped with a piece of coathanger =
for placement. I'd love to hear any stories of others who were able to =
make this happen.
I agree that everyone needs to check these bolts, but please understand =
unless you are McGyver you will need a day to replace them. Make sure =
you have plenty of useless objects around to throw when you get =
disgusted.
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Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 20:44:43 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: LUG NUTS WON'T BUDGE
At 02:56 AM 12/13/98 -0700, you wrote:
(SNIP)
>
>Anyway, I tried removing the left front tire the other day to take a
>look at the angle drive and lube it. The lug nuts were locked tight.
>After trying the others with the same result I borrowed a breaker bar
>and still could not get them free. I was afraid to keep going or use
>anymore force since I might break a stud. Apparently a neanderthal had
>tightened them down.
>
>Should I wait and take the car to a tire shop and have them use an air
>gun on it, or just try some break free or other lube on it?
>
>Downside if any, she still likes the black interior better. "it's hot"
>Oh well.
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike Atkinson
>vin 16232
reply:
Hello Mike,
I had the same problem the first time I wanted to do the same job. My
guess is that you may have "impact wrench syndrome". In my case I had new
tires mounted a week after I got my D, and watched the tire guys use
their
impact wrenches to tighten the Lug nuts. I finally, using the lug wrench
that comes in the tool D kit with no breaker bar. I just stood on it and
bounced until it started turning. There is a torque speck for the lug
nuts,
which is often far exceeded by the impact wrenches.
I don't think you can twist off a lug stud, at least I never heard of
this
ever happening. You should be able to get the lug nuts off using a wrench
and a hammer. Once you do be sure to clean the threads on the studs and
soak the nuts in solvent then hand wire brush the threads, thoroughly dry
both studs and nuts. Don't lubricate the nuts or studs.
When installing the lug nuts work in a circle as you tighten them and use
a torque wrench. get the dial type that you set at a certain amount and
that snap when you reach the amount set. Do not jerk the wrench to the
snap
point apply pressure evenly.
BTW, if you are worried about twisting off a stud, don't! if you can
twist
off the lug stud it was unsafe to start with. If you have ever seen a
totaled high speed wreck in which the wheels come off, you would see that
the hubs always stay with the wheels. I know it may seam scary, but think
of the force a shop would apply using an impact wrench which is your other
choice.
Good luck
Lee
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:19:45 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Transmission Slippage
Is it a chevy transmission? What model?
Was the trans rebuilt?
Check to make sure the vacuums line to the transmission is installed and
not leaking. Also check to make sure the Trans fluid cooling lines are
not kinked, and the fluid is flowing freely.
MBell14632@xxxxxxx wrote:
>
> I recently installed a 350 Chevrolet with approximately 275 hp coupled to
> a
> modified automatic in my Delorean. Under heavy acceleration (with the
> car in
> motion) I am experiencing slippage. The fluid pressure is o.k. Under
> normal
> driving the car runs and handles extremely well. Any thoughts? Thanks
> for
> any help on this matter.
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:16:16 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: OVERHEATING!
You need to bleed the air out of the cooling system.
If there is air in the system, the thermal switch will not turn the fans
on.
If there is a lot of air in the system, the water will not circulate
because the water level is below the pump.
The procedure for bleeding has been discussed many times, so your best
bet is to check the archives.
When you get the car running, Have the motor checked to see if there
was any damage. A compression or leak down test will tell you if you
warped anything. You should also check the oil and make sure there is
no water in it.
RICHAJG@xxxxxxx wrote:
> A friendly neighbor was with me at the time and said he thought the
> coolant
> wasn't circulating thru the engine. (All the while the car was running
> during
> that 15 minute period, he had his hands on two of the hoses to see if
> there
> was coolant flow).
>
> Does anyone know what the problem could be? Any suggestions? My neighbor
> seems to think it could either be the temp gauge or may be the water pump.
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 22:27:38 -0800
From: Hank Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Cooling System & OVERHEATING!
RICHAJG@xxxxxxx wrote:
> <snip> A friendly neighbor was with me at the time and said he thought the
> coolant wasn't circulating thru the engine. <snip>
and "R. Haslewood" wrote:
> <snip>...is there any special technique for bleeding the coolant system?
> <snip>
Rich,
First question is where did the coolant go? You need to check for leaks,
etc. I bought a cooling system pressure tester (a hand pump and
pressure gauge that fits the coolant bottle neck) at a local parts house.
The system should hold 15 psi for 15 minutes. While the system is
cool and under pressure, you should be able to spot any external leaks.
If the system does not hold pressure and there are no external leaks, you
have other, more serious problems (probably a blown head gasket).
When the system reliably holds pressure, you must bleed air from it
The cooling system on a DeLorean is a vacuum system and is prone to
something a'kin to vapor lock and WILL cause overheating if air is
not bled out of the system properly. Here is the procedure I use.
Run a piece of vacuum hose (about 3 feet) from the air bleed screw
located on the thermostat housing at the back of the engine into a bucket
full of water. Run water from a garden hose into the header bottle.
Turn on the car's heater. Start the engine. Open the bleed screw.
As the engine runs, you should get bubbles from the end of the
hose. Keep running the engine until the fans have cycled on and off
twice. (This ensures that the thermostat has opened and any air trapped
in the heater core has had a chance to circulate).
When you get no more bubbles, shut the engine off, but leave the bleed
screw open. Slowly pour one gallon of anti-freeze into the header
bottle. This will force a gallon of water out through the bleed screw
and into the bucket, but it is so far downstream in the cooling system,
you will not loose any anti-freeze.
Note: The cooling system holds 2.9 gallons. The above mixture is
about 35% anti-freeze and 65% water and works fine here in Southern
California, but if you want to use the recommended 50/50 mixture, you
should add about 1 1/2 gallons of anti-freeze instead.
CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW BEFORE TAKING THE END OF THE HOSE OUT OF THE BUCKET!
Then you can pull the hose off of the bleed screw and put the
cap back on the header bottle.
Hope this works as well for you as it has for me.
Hank Breer
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:24:02 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Cooling System
"R. Haslewood" wrote:
>
> Hey fellas,
>
> Dad and I took delivery of our DeLorean this morning, and after spending
> about 4 hours tinkering around, we have a couple of questions about the
> cooling system.
Congradz!! Good luck!
> Since the car has had very little use over the years, the coolant is in
> need
> of changing, and the water in the bottle has turned a muddy colour. Dad
> plans to run a cleaning solution through the system then re-fill it with
> fresh coolant.
> His question to you guys is: what is the best method of doing this, and is
> there any special technique for bleeding the coolant system?
The bleed methods are in the archives. Check it out there!
If you are going to service the cooling system, you should replace all
the hoses as well. PJGrady sells a kit.
More important than the cooling system, if this car sat a long time
unused, pull the fuel pump and make sure all of the rubber parts are in
tact. A common problem in stored Deloreans is for the rubber parts to
melt in to the gas, and when the rubber is sucked in to the pump it
causes havoc on the entire fuel system. (EXPENSIVE!)
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 08:37:43 -0700
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx (Scott Mueller)
Subject: DML: Re: OVERHEATING!
You must bleed the cooling system. If you go back throught he Back
issues,
I'm sure you will find many postings on how to bleed the system.
Also, Duke's DeLorean page has the bleeding procedure in it.
I would bleed the system first, then, if that doesn't work check for
coolant
flow. When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap, you should see
coolant flow throught the small tube near the neck of the coolant bottle.
If you do not, the hosee is most likely plugged.
Dukes page http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/8952/delorean.html
Scott Mueller
DMC/ Das Mueller Companies
Mobile, AL
1981/002981 DOA-5031 DMCNEWS
Contact me about the "Deep South DeLorean Owners Club"
http://www.zebra.net/~scottmueller/Web%20Page/aaanothe.htm
Remember April 3, 1999 - Camillia Classic Car Show in Mobile Alabama
Date: Sunday, December 13, 1998 3:47 PM
Subject: DML: OVERHEATING!
The temp
>gauge was
>pinned. There's no way to tell how long the car had ran in the red zone.
>
>I checked the coolent level... and not surprisingly, the coolant was
>virtually
>gone. I filled the coolent level just shy of topping off and started the
>car
>back up a couple hours later
>Does anyone know what the problem could be? Any suggestions? My neighbor
>seems to think it could either be the temp gauge or may be the water pump.
>Rich Galichon
>#2088
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:12:11 -0500
From: "Watkins Family watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Headliners
Does anyone know of a replacement headliner material that won't come apart
after a few years. My car had the liners replaced by the previous owner
only 2 years ago and they look awful now.
Tom
#5732
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:53:08 -0600
From: "Duke" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: OVERHEATING!
Rich,
It sounds like one of two things. First off, make sure the system is free
of all air. (that would be the first thing) If there is no air in the
system and coolant is flowing fine, then you probably have a bad
thermostat
switch (part # 100816) To check the switch, take the two wires going to
the
switch and jump them. This will make the fans run constant until you get
another switch. Please feel free to email me directly if you have any
other questions.
Hope this helps,
Duke
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 98 13:14:18 -0000
From: Rick <deloreanguy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DeLreanmotor Club?
Does the Delorean Motor Club started by a couple of ex-DOA people still
exist? I never got a renewal after that one magazine showed up...
Rick
deloreanguy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 15:28:01 EST
From: MBell14632@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Transmission Slippage
Hi,
The transmission is a type 4141 (Delorean standard). I had the C1 & C2
clutch packs modified and replaced the torque converter. I installed a
cooler
in front of the condenser. I may change the rubber lines to the cooler as
they may be the problem.
Thanks for the reply.
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 15:05:51 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Rear Control Arms? Adjustable?
Early in the summer I called PJGrady and DMC Houston for advice on my
rear wheels having such a poor Camber.
Both Rob and Stephen had said that the most likely cause was that the
car was so low (cut and swap springs). I liked the height of the car
but did not want to continue destroying my tires. I also felt that the
rear of the car did not set well on hard turns.
I ordered a set of 4 replacement springs and had them installed. The
"lowered" spring set left the rear at about the same height, but brought
the front up about 2 inches as compared to the cut springs that were
removed.
The alignment did not improve. Rear Camber is at -2.95 and -1.84.
The car was inspected, and everything looks OK. Stephen suggested that
the frame may need to be pulled out, although the frame does not look
bent.
I don't think I would be able to find a shop with the equipment needed
to pull the frame to the correct alignment, and that I trust... I don't
trust to many people to work on my car.
So, the other option is a Adjustable link.
Delorean Motor Center sells a set of adjustable lower control arms.
Anyone use them?
Any comments on my problem in general?
On the other hand, Many people would argue that the performance improves
with the camber not at (or close to) 0deg.
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:31:44 -0800
From: "Dave Price" <davep2@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: Chevy Engine / Transmission slippage
So how much did you end up spending to put a chevy engine into your D, and
what did you have to do? Also.. How do you like it? (besides the obvious
tranny slippage...)
About your slippage, I'm having the same problem so I'm in the process of
diagnosing it myself. Besides a vacuum or hydraulic issue, it's possible
it
could be the roller clutch. I don't know how often this part fails, but
it's something that can effect slippage.
- - Dave
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------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #453
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