Re: [DMCForum] Re: Walt... aircon & springs

["Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>]

> I think my AC/heater is very screwed.

It might be something as simple as a broken cable to your
heater door.  Maybe the rest of your aircon is fine and
should be left alone.

> When it is on max AC and you turn
the temp control to full red shouldnt heat come out?

In a properly function system, no.  Putting the mode switch
on MAX should send a vacuum signal to the heater control
valve (in the engine compartment) shutting off coolant flow
to the heater core.  Try putting the mode switch on NORM and
see if that has any effect on the temp.  The NORM setting
should not shut off coolant flow to the heater core.

> As for the timing, can a vacuum pump be rented, i know pep
boys
loans a lot of tools out?

I doubt they are available for rent.  Those little hand
vacuum pumps are (or should be) common shop tools that any
good mechanic cant be without.  I use mine for all kinds of
things -- I even used mine for sucking cleaning fluids out
of my valley-of-death before I rinsed it & filled with
silicone.  (If you buy the whole kit, it comes with a sump
so that you dont suck particulates or harmful fluids thru
the valves.)  Other common uses include verifying proper
operation of vacuum actuated flapper doors in aircon
systems, initiating a siphon when emptying fuel tanks, oil
reservoirs on auto-mixing two strokes, dick pumps in adult
books stores -- you name it.  Speaking of that last comment,
I dont think I would want to rent one, and you probably
wouldn't want to touch mine either.

> When
i push the gas half way it pulls ok, but when i subsequently
go WOT,
the car doesnt accelerate at any noticeable difference.

That seems to be typical of DeLoreans.  Mine has a threshold
that once I get past a certain RPM or speed then it takes
off.  Maybe yours is bad enough that it cant get passed that
point.  Rich A's had this problem too, and I think he fixed
it.  Hey Rich!  What did you find?  Mine seems to be due to
a low voltage problem after sitting at idle -- radiator
fans, etc, deplete the battery while the alternator doesn't
keep up.  Once the system voltage goes back over 10 to 11
volts then it takes off.

> The motor still seems to vibrate a lot at idle, more than
before the work.  It might partly be the motor mounts but
perhaps
also the lack of pull problem.

Bad motor mounts would not cause vibration (unless maybe the
rubber pads fell out or the engine slipped off which is
highly unlikely).  But a bad vibrating engine could cause
problems with weak motor mounts.  My take is that you caused
a problem somewhere during your last repair.  Maybe you have
a plug wire not properly seated, broken or defective plug
wire, broken or improperly gapped plug, etc.  You say you
had an explosion when you first tried to start it?  Maybe
that damaged a valve or broke a piston, rod or whatever.
I'm not experienced in dealing with big issues like that
(knock on wood.)  Perhaps you should do a compression test.
That's a matter of buying a gauge, screwing it into each
spark plug hole and compare with the other cylinders.  They
should all be within 10%.  Read the instructions that come
with the gauge.  They probably cost less than a hand vacuum
pump.

You could also consider buying an ignition diagnostic
computer.  I bought a cheapy that does one cylinder at a
time.  I think it takes a good bit of experience to be good
with it (I'm still learning with mine.)  It clips to a plug
wire and shows how that cylinder is firing.  It isn't as
useful for finding what the exact problem is, but it does
work for finding a cylinder that runs differently from the
rest.  That way you have an idea of where to concentrate
your efforts.

Walt

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