[DMCForum] Re: Walt... aircon & springs

["mw98gt" <mw98gt@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Wow, good call on my not filling the valley.  I started but gave 
up.  It was so nasty.  I would of needed to pressure clean it and 
get a super vacuum in there.  I got most of the crud out though.  
Just not 100% where I would feel ok RTVing it all up.

I think my AC/heater is very screwed.  It acts it though.  I am 
thinking a prime job is needed.  When it is on max AC and you turn 
the temp control to full red shouldnt heat come out?  Instead I just 
get cool air to blow on my feet while the main vents have less 
flow.  I turn the AC control to heater and no heat comes.  I was not 
informed of this being removed, if it was.  Then of course the max 
ac and full blue is mildly cool and not ice cold like it needs to be 
in florida.

As for the timing, can a vacuum pump be rented, i know pep boys 
loans a lot of tools out?

I can now explain what seems wrong with my cars acceleration.  When 
i push the gas half way it pulls ok, but when i subsequently go WOT, 
the car doesnt accelerate at any noticeable difference.  I didnt 
have this problem, or at least dont recall it before the work i 
did.  Although it still could just be that i forgot how weak these 
cars are.  The motor still seems to vibrate a lot at idle, more than 
before the work.  It might partly be the motor mounts but perhaps 
also the lack of pull problem.

As for the springs I will take before and after pictures and 
measurements.

Misha

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> > As for the springs, you can weigh them down if you wish.
> 
> Cool.  Let's do that sometime.
> 
> > Is it necessary to tear the
> dash apart or is that just to make it prime?
> 
> That is just to make it prime.  Since you have
> successfully(?) replaced your water pump ;-) I figure that
> maybe you are up to taking your dash apart next.  If you are
> the kind of person who filled your valley-of-death with RTV,
> then you will probably want to take your dash apart.  But it
> sounds like you didn't, so you aren't.
> 
> For a decent aircon overhaul I suggest first removing the
> orifice tube & inspecting it.  Whether or not you flush the
> system could depend on how gunked up the orifice screen is.
> The problem is that once you start messing with the
> evaporator connections, the job can snow-ball into replacing
> the evaporator depending on how corroded the fittings are or
> if a previous mechanic dented or kinked the lines.
> Evaporators are repairable, per se.  And new ones I think
> cost around $300ish.  John Hervey finally came up with
> something that I hear fits okay.  But if you want to keep
> the job simple then hope that the evaporator doesn't need to
> come out.
> 
> If you want to flush the system, you can pre-flush with
> mineral spirits (cheap) and follow with a quality solvent
> such as Dura-141.  But you cant flush the accumulator as
> that would really muck things up.  I'm terrible at keeping
> prices in my head on all the parts.  I posted a list before
> for Mike C & Rich A when I took a trip up to Maryland on the
> way to the Pigeon Forge show.  Can that be found?
> 
> To round off & guesstimate some prices (very crude
> guestimations):
> $30 to $50 for flushing solvents depending on how anal you
> want to be.
> 3 cans of R-134a at $3.50? per can.  I haven't watched
> prices.
> $20 for bottle of Ester-100 oil.
> $2 for orifice tube -or- $20 for VOV (which I recommend
> particularly for R-134a)
> $10 would cover all the o-rings in the system, but you run
> the risk of damaging things that dont absolutely need to
> come apart.  For a full job you take everything apart
> anyway.  If on a budget then you may not want to risk having
> something break that didn't need to come apart.
> $10 for R-134a conversion fittings
> $40 for new accumulator
> --------------
> I think that does it for parts.  I source the parts all over
> town -- mostly NAPA and Superparts in St. Pete.  My labor?
> I'm not a business man.  What am I worth per hour?   The
> rubber hoses probably dont need to be replaced unless they
> are wet/oily looking or got cut by the fiberglass underbody.
> If one of the hoses are already repaired then I suggest
> replacing all the hoses.  They do leak more with R-134a, but
> you might prefer to add extra refrigerant & oil periodically
> rather than fix it right.  I'm trying to look thru old
> receipts to see what hoses cost.  Amazon's invoices are
> impossible to decipher.  And every time I go there I'm
> having extra things done, so I cant point my finger to any
> one job and say what a set costs.  Maybe Mike Cohee or Rich
> A or Samuel could speak up?  It's in the DMCForum archives I
> think.  If you find it there then all the other things I
> mentioned above may not coincide very well.
> 
> > At least you have experience at adjusting timing, I have
> zilch.  Is
> there anything I need to buy to do this.  I know you have a
> timing
> light, but do you have the other thing?
> 
> The "other thing" is a hand vacuum pump.  I saw one on the
> shelf at PepBoys last time I was there for $40.  That was a
> plastic Mighty-Vac.  NAPA sells a better one that looks
> identical only is metal & more expensive.  It needs to have
> a vacuum gauge to work for checking the vacuum advance.  To
> just set the timing without checking that the advance is
> working properly, you only need to set it at idle.  So you
> dont need a tach, vacuum pump or gauge.  You only need a
> timing light and I think a 10 or 11mm wrench.
> 
> Walt

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