[DMCForum] Re: Mechanical & Cosmetics (backfiring)
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[DMCForum] Re: Mechanical & Cosmetics (backfiring)



Ok, first:

I know I messed w/the timing scale but it had very visible "clean 
spots" that the mounting screws left on it. When I put it back, I was 
very careful to line them back up. Also, when I put the engine back 
together I used a wooden dowel to get #1 at TDC and lined up the 
pulley mark with the scale.

But you never know...

Second:

I do NOT have flames and such coming out of my intake. After my last 
set of adjustments I only have the -occasional- little fart. It only 
occurs during certain conditions. When the rain quits I'll try to do 
a compression check. I pulled one plug at Mike's. It was perfect. I 
should check all the rest though.

Third:

I started a thread on octane some time ago. The manual's 
recommendation of 91 octane is some kind of funky "research" number 
that equates to 87 octane. I'm running that and I have no knock or 
ping. I -want- as much combustion as I can get. Burn, baby burn.

Lastly:

I agree. When I was set too lean, my engine popped and farted and ran 
as hot as a firecracker. I put in hotter plugs and a new coil based 
on YOUR recommendation Bill. Whaddya mean put in "cooler" plugs?? At 
any rate, I only went up one heat range. If the one I pulled is any 
example they look great.

Rich

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> 
wrote:
> True backfiring (flames coming out of carburetor vs muffler
> explosions) is often plug wires out of order. Flame escapes cylinder
> when an intake valve is open. Could be timing but would have to be 
WAY
> off. Do a compression test to ensure valves are closing and sealing
> all the way.
> 
> Muffler explosions are usually unburned fuel.
> 
> Are you pre-detonating when engine is hot & under load? That was my
> problem. Try cooler plugs. And don't lug the engine -- with no RPM's
> AND vacuum dropped spark may come too late. What octane are you
> running? 91 factory spec was figured by some method other than what
> our pumps use (does it translate into 87 or 89?). I can not run
> reliably on less than 93.
> 
> Re: adjusting main CO2 screw -- I've said 1000 times a rich mixture
> burns cooler than a lean one. Usually get shot down when I do, but
> I've got 3 melted plugs sitting on my kitchen counter right now that
> prove it! (Courtesy of a vacuum leak on that side of engine -- too
> much air for metered fuel, duh).  What do your plugs look like? 
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > Walt,
> > 
> > I'll tell you this;
> > 
> > Fuel settings defintely have something to do with it because when 
I 
> > richen up the CO screw it largely goes away. It doesn't just do 
it at 
> > idle though. If I put enough of a load on the engine (toting 
uphill) 
> > it does it.
> > 
> > I'm starting to think you may be right about uneven delivery.
> > 
> > I'm painting the engine cover not the louvers. I don't even have 
> > louvers. They were cracked and snapped off and flew away a year 
ago 
> > during the tow home. :(
> > 
> > Mike does wonders with paint in a can, so it can be done.
> > 
> > Rich
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> > > Mike was telling me about your car backfiring through the 
intake.  
> > The cause
> > > of this on my car was from one cylinder running too lean off of 
> > idle.  The
> > > injector for that cylinder was delivering about half as much 
fuel 
> > as the
> > > others at idle, but above 1500 RPM it was fine.  When I 
adjusted the
> > > air/fuel mixture, it caused that one cylinder to be too lean 
and 
> > the other 5
> > > to be too rich.  Inspecting the plugs confirmed this along with 
> > watching the
> > > injectors spray in test tubes.  The problem with the faulty new 
> > injectors
> > > must be that they are NOS and have rust in them.  I'm curious 
to 
> > cut one
> > > open and see.
> > > 
> > > Having your timing off will also cause it to backfire through 
the 
> > intake.  I
> > > would have terrible luck trying to tune it by hear like Bill 
> > suggests.
> > > There must be a procedure for setting/verifying the position of 
the 
> > timing
> > > mark.
> > > 
> > > > Question of the day:  What is the best paint to use to 
repaint the
> > > engine cover? Bumper black or semi flat 1613, or what?
> > > 
> > > I have never been too fond of any paint that comes out of a 
spray 
> > can when
> > > compared to spraying real automotive paints through a spray 
gun.  
> > Rich W
> > > painted the louvers of D-rex with Krylon Semi-Flat Black, and 
it 
> > looks good.
> > > I'm curious to see how it holds up.  Plasti-kote Bumper Black 
spray 
> > paint (#
> > > 616) seems to be a spot-on match for the black part of the 
> > fascias.  I'm not
> > > sure how well it would stick to an engine cover, though.  Like 
Bill 
> > said,
> > > preparation is everything.  If there is any residue of oil or 
Armor-
> > all or
> > > Back-to-black then you will get fish-eye in those areas.  I 
have 
> > seen too
> > > many painted louvers that are mostly glossy yet mottled with 
fish-
> > eye spots
> > > where residue made the paint go thin.
> > > 
> > > Walt



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