[DMCForum] Re: Rich A's wheel
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[DMCForum] Re: Rich A's wheel



Is it possible Rich's problem is tapered lug nut seat, not threads?

My wheels stick to rotors every time I remove. Have to smack the tire
rather convincingly to break loose. 

Have wondered if whatever formulation of aluminum was used to cast DMC
wheels reacts badly with steel. My Lincolns have two different styles
of aluminum wheels, covering 5 years of production (white '78 has
wheels from a '76 Town Car) and they never stick. Even the cancerous
one from salt mines of Kentucky is no trouble in this regard.

If problem is indeed nut seat, perhaps something like this might not
be bad idea (non serrated, bottom of page):

http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/109/html/3001.html

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> Do you have any evidence to back this up? Alloy wheels will weld 
> themselves to hubs, nuts sieze on studs, and I've had the same 
> experience as Rich, replacing an alloy only to not be able to remove it 
> 3 weeks later. All it cost _me_ was two new lug nuts. I habitually use 
> copper grease now, in common with just about every garage in the
country.
> 
> Lubrication on a thread will allow you to achieve the torque the wrench 
> tells you, rather than losing some of it to friction. It will not cause 
> them to come loose.
> 
> Personally, I use spray-on copper slip which is a solvent-based 
> anti-sieze compound which leaves a thin layer of copper dust in a light 
> grease.
> 
> Martin
> 
> Scott Mueller wrote:
> 
> >If you are thinking about putting "Anti-Seize" or oil on the
threads of your
> >lug nuts, do NOT do it.
> > 
> >You will end up over torqing the threads or the nuts could loosen
on there
> >own while you are driving.
> > 
> >LUG NUTS ARE MEANT TO BE TORQUED WHEN THE THREADS ARE DRY.
> > 
> >Scott Mueller
> >002981
> >RNDOLA
> >  
> >



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