[DMCForum] Re: Renault Fuel Distributor

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Have no idea if it has that big flex plate inside, and am not about to
disturb non-leaking distributor to find out!

Think my CPR needs fine tuning (Renault, not DeLo -- has adjustment
screw on an extra external canister of some sort). Cold, my little 2.5
liter out accelerates 2.8's, but performance drops warm. Will contact
Martin/Darren before SEDOC (Martin, are you reading -- what the heck
is that canister and which direction do I turn its screw to reduce
warm pressure?). Is a barrel of monkeys with A/C clutch on.

Other than CPR, my block is totally bereft of electronic gizmo's and
add on's. Whoever did engine swap took a stab at transferring idle
speed motor, but microswitch didn't make transition (I think because
bracket wouldn't fit my upper air assembly. You'll see at SEDOC is
different from stock DeLo). Was hard wired on. Appears to eventually
have fried motor or ECU. Note that cold start tube and upper air
assembly have same ports though -- Renault must have had something
similar in mind. According to Volvo newsgroups contemporary 260 series
has no idle speed motor. Wonder if their PRV's have same ports capped off.

Sometimes wish I had full throttle enrichment (was a microswitch there
but leads loose -- nothing to connect to). Is like 2 barrel carb vs 4
barrel. Tried wiring switch to cold start tube but experiment was
counter productive. Too much fuel? Not properly vaporized? Of course
at that time I was also suffering from an over advance condition (long
story related to fact I don't have a vacuum advance solenoid either).
Would try again now except switch has been removed to reduce clutter.
Hard to imagine French auto engineers can't be outsmarted though.

BTW: have finally removed my Lambda computer. No sense powering unused
device. Do you, or anyone else, want it? No O2 sensor to go with --
already gave away.

#5939 is slowly being distilled to its basics. No inertia switch. No
emissions. No idle speed motor. Even the headlight master switch is
single action now (modified circuit uses a hazard switch with the
button swapped -- cheaper than dual action switch). Takes a little of
the luxury out, but kudo's for reliability. Do you realize in past
year my DeLo has made 5 trips to DC vs once in a Lincoln and once in
the truck? Wasn't supposed to be like this....

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@xxxx> wrote:
> Bill, If the lower chamber port was there that would be the for the
Lambda
> system or emission control. The non Lambda fuel distributors will
offer more
> pressure for Turbo and non turbo.
> John
> 
>   -----Original Message-----
>   From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxx]
>   Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 10:22 PM
>   To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>   Subject: [DMCForum] Plain PRV
> 
> 
>   No hysterectomy -- wasn't an option to begin with. Replacement block
>   came without emissions. My fuel distributor doesn't even have a port
>   for lower chambers. Is a dimple in the casting (aluminum, not steel),
>   but never drilled & tapped.
> 
>   Contemporary Volvos (260 series) are same. Recently popped hood of a
>   1990 760, however, and it had a humongous Lamda type device (twice
>   DeLo size).
> 
>   For a while my engine did have an unused full throttle microswitch.
>   (Transferred from original block?) Tried wiring to cold start valve --
>   only enrichment option available to me -- but effect was too much.
>   Actually reduced performance. Guess my little 2.5 liter is already
>   burning everything it can. I removed switch to reduce clutter.
> 
>   Be sure to pop my louvers at SEDOC. Think you'll find it interesting.
>   Engine instantly recognizable as PRV, but several key differences from
>   stock.
> 
>   Bill Robertson
>   #5939
> 
>   >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@xxxx> wrote:
>   > Bill and others,
>   > The enrichment can be enhanced even though you have done a
>   hysterectomy on
>   > the Lambda system. I just did it for a 924 Porsche and gained 10 to
>   15 HP as
>   > reported on the dyno. I just have to find the correct parts. It's
>   less than
>   > $500.00.
>   > John Hervey
>   > www.specialTauto.com
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   >   -----Original Message-----
>   >   From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxx]
>   >   Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 2:17 PM
>   >   To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>   >   Subject: [DMCForum] DeLo Spark Advance, Etc
>   >
>   >
>   >   Stock DeLo is set up for full scale vacuum advance off the
manifold.
>   >   Uses a shut-off solenoid at idle (wired into same circuit as idle
>   >   speed motor) and vacuum enrichment in CPR when throttle plates
open.
>   >   Because my Renault re-engine lacks both (CPR is coil only),
set it up
>   >   accordingly. Is much simpler and less prone to problems, but
do think
>   >   I'm missing slight performance advantage of enriched fuel
mixture (no
>   >   full throttle switch/Lamda valve either). Oh well -- the cost of
>   >   reliability.
>   >
>   >   Bill Robertson
>   >   #5939
>   >
>   >   >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
>   >   > I'll try it both ways if I have to. I'll keep it stock for now.
>   >   >
>   >   > I'm going to clean up my grounds. The starter still turns
too slowly
>   >   > and the battery won't charge and both are new. I haven't
even really
>   >   > used the starter that much yet so I don't see how I could have
>   smoked
>   >   > it already.
>   >   >
>   >   > Mike Cohee warned me about this. I should have done it then.
>   >   >
>   >   > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207"
<brobertson@xxxx>
>   >   > wrote:
>   >   > > 10 degrees actually...
>   >   > >
>   >   > > Tried it Martin's way, but a valve cover casting or some such
>   >   > > interfered with distributor rotation before time reached (of
>   course
>   >   > at
>   >   > > that time I might still have been shooting for 13 degrees
-- pre-
>   >   > Darren).
>   >   > >
>   >   > > I rotated engine (with socket wrench) to 10 degrees, then
stuck
>   >   > > distributor so that rotor was basically at #1 terminal. Worked
>   >   > > excellent (final timed with light).
>   >   > >
>   >   > > Speaking of 10 degrees: My PRV is only 2.5 liters (engine code
>   >   > > according to Darren B). Translates into 151 CID. Bit small,
>   >   > especially
>   >   > > for a 3000 lbs sports car, yet I still hold my own with
2.8 liter
>   >   > > crowd. Wonder if reduced time makes the difference? (less
>   resistance
>   >   > > from explosion against piston upstroke).
>   >   > >
>   >   > > Note I am running high voltage ignition. Final fuel burn
may be
>   >   > > comparable to earlier low voltage spark. Am sure my late
time is
>   >   > what
>   >   > > got me into octane trouble in 100 degree heat on I-95 (plus my
>   >   > vacuum
>   >   > > advance is taken before throttle plates -- much lower than
stock
>   >   > DeLo
>   >   > > at partial throttle).
>   >   > >
>   >   > > Bill Robertson
>   >   > > #5939
>   >   > >
>   >   > > >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx>
wrote:
>   >   > > > What I mean is, do you set the crank at the "0" mark, or 13
>   >   > degrees,
>   >   > > > and then set the rotor to the notch on the dizzy body?
>   >   > > >
>   >   > > > It's the crank setting I'm interested in. Apparently
Bill sets
>   >   > his
>   >   > > > crank mark to 13 degrees.
>   >   > > >
>   >   > > > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski
>   >   > <webmaster@xxxx>
>   >   > > > wrote:
>   >   > > > > I set it to the notch, then you have more than enough
>   >   > adjustment
>   >   > > > either
>   >   > > > > way. Bearing in mind that the more you advance it (up to a
>   >   > point)
>   >   > > > the
>   >   > > > > faster the engine runs and this creates the mechanical
advance
>   >   > > > > internally to the distrubutor, so at the limit of
movement,
>   >   > it's
>   >   > > > > coughing away at some 18 degrees.
>   >   > > > >
>   >   > > > > Just been setting ours up in the last couple of hours
and it
>   >   > runs
>   >   > > > > sweetly at 0 but of course no power. It's running best
at 9-10
>   >   > > > degrees
>   >   > > > > but we've dropped in a different dizzy and changed the vac
>   >   > advance.
>   >   > > > >
>   >   > > > > It started with very little trouble, though.... :-( It DID
>   need
>   >   > 12v
>   >   > > > > across the coil but it's back on the resistors now and
running
>   >   > fine.
>   >   > > > >
>   >   > > > > Martin
>   >   > > > >
>   >   > > > > cruznmd wrote:
>   >   > > > >
>   >   > > > > >Martin,
>   >   > > > > >
>   >   > > > > >I have this question in my head now:
>   >   > > > > >
>   >   > > > > >At the end of your procedure, you said to get the #1
>   piston at
>   >   > TDC
>   >   > > > > >and install the distributor. (Which is what I did
yesterday)
>   >   > > > > >
>   >   > > > > >The engine is set to run at 13 degrees BTDC.
Shouldn't I have
>   >   > > > rotated
>   >   > > > > >the engine until is was at 13 degrees BTDC instead of at
>   >   > dead "0"?
>   >   > > > > >
>   >   > > > > >Then I would be 13 degrees too far advanced and the dizzy
>   only
>   >   > > > swings
>   >   > > > > >about 15 degrees each direction so I'd almost be out
of room
>   >   > for
>   >   > > > > >adjustment.
>   >   > > > > >
>   >   > > > > >Both of my books say to set it to TDC...
>   >   > > > > >
>   >   > > > > >Do you set to 0 or 13 when you put the dizzy in?
>   >   > > > > >
>   >   > > > > >
>   >   > > > > >
>   >
>   >
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