5 am? Ick. :) Hm. How could I fuel flood with no fuel? I uh...don't -have- an inertia switch. The P.O. removed it and spliced the wires together. (On my replacement list). I know the fuel pump runs. I've tested all that. I stop the fuel pump from running by yanking the RPM relay. 1) I used Marvel Mystery Oil to increase the compression. It seemed to lose the will to live after either the oil, or the ether burned away. 2) After the oil burned away, the engine started to squeak again, and the starter slowed down. No matter how much ether I gave it, it wouldn't run again. It farted and sputtered but that was it. 3) I agree, everyone told me to eliminate a fuel problem by making it run from starter fluid. It won't run from the can so I can eliminate a fuel problem. Since it won't run from the can, that leaves compression, or spark or both. For instance, if perhaps I had stronger spark, the weaker compression could be overcome. Or did I overcome weak spark, by increasing compression, and using fuel that burns -way- better than gas? I guess all I can do, it heat up the spark and try again. If it still won't run, then I guess I'm looking at compression. I agree with you though, I have almost the right compression when COLD, 100-120 and the manual says 114-156 when HOT so I should be ok. I'm praying it's spark. --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxx> wrote: > Yeah, with my morning coffee. The crazy people here start work at like 5am. Screw that, I don't come in until at least 8. > > Add possibility #3. You mentioned the the fuel was disconnected. It's possible you were fuel flooding. BTW, you don't necessarily have to disconnect the fuel... just trip the inertia switch, and that will shut off the pump. > > Bear in mind that a Model T (or any car before the 1940's for that matter) ran just fine on like 6:1 compression. The PRV should at least run (not under load) even on a fairly low compression. 100 psi should be plenty to at least start the car, even with a weakish spark. > > So, to test #'s 1, 2 & 3. > > 1) Use a teaspoon of 90W oil in each cylinder, or half a teaspoon of STP. That will increase the sealing power of the rings for a minute or so of running, but is going to burn and stink and possible foul the plugs again. My guess is this isn't the problem though. > > 2) Spark weak? Try a different coil. Volatility of ether? Try "running from the can" -- goose it with short little shots of ether to keep it running. Just shoot it down the metering plate throat... it'll get there okay. If it runs from the can, then you're likely looking at a fuel problem. What does your fuel pressure / control pressure look like? Do you have a gauge? I can send you mine if you need it. > > 3) Try running from the can. Ether works very well, as it can often make even a flooded engine start. I use ether as The Great Determiner. If the car runs on ether but not with the regular fuel system, I determine it to be a fuel system problem. With the K-Jet, the problem would either be too rich, or too lean. A pressure tester would really help to see what's going on here. To test too rich, force it to lean out: try disconnecting the electrical plug from the cold start injector, pulling it from it's perch, taping the hole, and putting it in a jar while starting -- that will thin out the gas mixture on startup (with a shot of ether as a start-helper). If it - is- flooding, my guess is it's likely from there, but it could be from other places. Also, don't write off that there may be a major vacuum leak. A big vacuum leak can "emulate" a fuel problem by leaning out the mixture dramatically. What is your vacuum while cranking? Offhand, I'd think you should be able to pull maybe 5-10 inHg, depending on cranking speed. You should pull 15-20 when it's running at idle. The small port on the upper driver's back of the manifold is a good place to T in a gauge. A vacuum test can tell you a few things. (http://www.ifsja.org/tech/motors/vacuum.shtml) > > You've had the injectors cleaned and checked, or just cleaned? A bad (even a 'clean bad') injector that opens too soon can steal fuel away from all of the others, flooding one cyl. while starving the others. > > Also to test too lean... Can you hear the fuel spraying if you push down the metering plate down 1/4"? 1/2"? 3/4"? If your fuel pressure is too low, it won't open the injectors at the right time. > > -Dave > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: cruznmd > To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 8:02 AM > Subject: [DMCForum] More on the Scientific Method > > > Thanks for all the warm words guys. Progress is good. > > I hope Dave S. is checking the list today... > > Now that I'm calmer...what did I prove by this experiment? What > conclusions can I draw? > > I may be wrong here, but I'm down to 1 or 2 things, or a combination > of both: > > 1. Compression is too poor to support self-sustaining combustion, or > > 2. Spark is so weak, that it took a drastic increase in compression, > by putting oil in the cylinders plus the extreme volatility of ether > to create an environment where strong enough combustion could occur. > > Help me figure out what it is! > > Rich > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=244522.3656190.4921519.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=170512 6215:HM/A=1595053/R=0/SIG=124mh1h7k/*http://ashnin.com/clk/muryutaitakenat togyo?YH=3656190&yhad=1595053> Click Here! <http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=244522.3656190.4921519.1261774/D=egroupm ail/S=:HM/A=1595053/rand=602539525> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! 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