RE: [DMCForum] Re: Out.

["John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Richard,
If you move the b/y wire to the lower right side, that totally bypasses the
resistor and runs 12volts straight to the coil from the solenoid during the
cranking time only. For a short time that won't hurt but you can't run that
way long. If there is no voltage or spark, then there may be something wrong
with the wire or a loose connection at the solenoid.
As for the oiling of the car, With the plugs out and the engine turning over
the pump should lubricate it all over and pressure should come up.
John Hervey

  -----Original Message-----
  From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
  Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 11:38 AM
  To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  Subject: [DMCForum] Re: Out.


  I'm being told to bypass the ballast resistor quite a bit.

  I've been told to remove the bu/y (blue/yellow) wire from the left
  side of the ballast resistor and move it to the lower right side of
  the resistor to bypass the resistor.

  If this is correct, I have a problem because when I do that, I have
  NO spark.

  Also, a good spark should be white should it not? Mine is yellow,
  which would be cooler.

  Bill, the I know the engine won't run with plugs pulled. I was mainly
  trying to drop a bit of oil in the cylinders to shut them up. Yes,
  the cylinders that ARE firing, cause the sensor plate to bob up and
  down when they fire.

  The new fuel distributor and injectors are beautiful. I can hear the
  injectors "chatter" when they open just as they should.

  I'm beginning to suspect a spark-type problem. I have a lot of other
  posts to read first though.

  --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
  wrote:
  > Bypass ballast resistor for now (just run 12v to coil). It can be
  > added back once engine is up. Ensure polarity is correct.
  >
  > Watch air sensor plate closely while starter motor turns engine. It
  > must move down. If it doesn't, is either bound or engine is sucking
  > air elsewhere.
  >
  > Disconnect spark advance. Until you're on Route 50 you won't need
  it.
  > Could be potential problem (Martin G's reference to Darren B helping
  > me dealt with an over-advance condition).
  >
  > Since you've no idea where fuel mixture screw is currently set, try
  this:
  > 1) crack throttle plates a reasonable amount with lower set screw
  > (just like a carburetor!). This will be temporary idle once engine
  is up.
  > 2) remove idle speed motor for now. Cap take off under fuel
  > distributor with a 3/4" vacuum plug. Add a 3/4" ball valve to cold
  > start tube where idle speed motor used to be. Leave other end LOOSE
  > (yes, a purposeful adjustable vacuum leak).
  > If fuel mixture is unreasonably rich, this will let you slowly add
  > unmetered air. Merely opening throttle plates won't help because
  over
  > rich condition will increase correspondingly. Might work, might not.
  > If engine does catch, you can back off mixture screw as ball valve
  is
  > closed.
  >
  > If fuel mixture is too lean, pressing down air sensor plate manually
  > (in MICRO amounts) will richen for whatever throttle plate position.
  >
  > BTW: when you mention pulling the plugs, are you actually removing
  > them or simply disconnecting wires? Guarantee engine won't run with
  > big spark plug hole.
  >
  > BBTW: you're not running the original coil are you? If so, give Rich
  > the comfy chair (thought you might be able to use a little Python
  > humor about now). A real coil is only $25. Ask Louie G what one did
  > for him.
  >
  > Wouldn't it be nice if PRV ran without valve covers in place? Would
  > let you watch valve train...
  >
  > If Darren B gets you running by phone, please post the results
  online.
  > Am sure a lot of people have been watching this more closely than As
  > the World Turns.
  >
  > BBBTW: #5335 is only allowed to leave your parking lot under its own
  > power. Did not lay around on wet pavement in the dark for anyone
  > else's benefit.
  >
  > Bill Robertson
  > #5939
  >
  > >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
  > > I believe that your guy can help. I certainly don't take it as an
  > > insult. All I'm saying is that I'm at the end of -my- knowledge.
  > >
  > > I did not adjust the rocker clearances as I did not remove the
  cams.
  > > I only removed the heads, checked for warpage, cleaned them up,
  > > exhaust gaskets etc.
  > >
  > > If you think it's still worth checking, I'll get on it.
  > >
  > > For what it's worth, I tried to start it a little later and it
  damn
  > > near caught. It was the strongest sputter I had yet. I just can't
  > > tell what it wants. More gas, less gas, better spark or what.
  > >
  > > I've had trouble with that relay that reduces the ballast
  resistor by
  > > half when you crank it. I have spark, but...
  > >
  > > Anyway, I'll take help where I can get it. Thanks.
  > >
  > > Rich
  > >
  > > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski
  <webmaster@xxxx>
  > > wrote:
  > > > Don't freak just yet. I've forwarded this mail to my PRV guy
  who
  > > will be
  > > > able to help, come hell or high water.  If all else fails, I'll
  > > pass on
  > > > his phoen number. Bill Robertson will back me up that he WILL
  be
  > > able to
  > > > help. He has already shown to us over here that there's a lot
  more
  > > to
  > > > this engine than what the DMC guys know (not to their
  detriment -
  > > but my
  > > > guy has the backup of years of experience on different PRVs)
  > > >
  > > > BTW did you check/adjust the rocker clearances?
  > > >
  > > > Martin
  > > >
  > > > cruznmd wrote:
  > > >
  > > > >That's right. I'm "out".
  > > > >
  > > > >Out of money, out of ideas and tricks, out of patience.
  > > > >
  > > > >I have replaced the starter, and all of the fuel components. I
  > > have
  > > > >spark on all 6 plugs, air and fuel. Too much or too little I
  don't
  > > > >know because I have no idea where to set the CO screw.
  > > > >
  > > > >The wires are in the correct order. I have spark. I've used a
  > > timing
  > > > >light while cranking the engine and I'm at 13 degrees BTDC.
  > > > >
  > > > >The engine is so tight the new starter can barely move it when
  all
  > > of
  > > > >the spark plugs are in. Obviously that's not right, but I
  followed
  > > > >the timing chain procedure in the manual and verified it with
  the
  > > > >people at DMCH.
  > > > >
  > > > >It shrieks like a beaten wife when it cranks because the oil I
  put
  > > in
  > > > >the cylinders to lube it is washed away by gas.
  > > > >
  > > > >As far as I can tell, when I pull all the plugs and start
  putting
  > > > >them in one by one, and cranking the engine with the addition
  of
  > > each
  > > > >plug, only 2 cylinders are making any kind of combustion.
  There
  > > are
  > > > >2 "thumps". As I add more plugs, there are no additional
  thumps,
  > > and
  > > > >the compression gets higher and higher as I add plugs and the
  > > engine
  > > > >slows down.
  > > > >
  > > > >I do not, nor am I ever likely to have funds to ship this
  thing to
  > > > >Houston or Long Island, and pay for repairs. I can pay for
  labor
  > > or
  > > > >parts, not both.
  > > > >
  > > > >Unless I have some kind of epiphany, 5335 will be another dead
  > > weight
  > > > >in another guy's driveway, falling apart as time eats away at
  it.
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
  > > > >DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
  > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > >.
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > >


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