[DMCForum] Re: Out.

["cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I'm being told to bypass the ballast resistor quite a bit.

I've been told to remove the bu/y (blue/yellow) wire from the left 
side of the ballast resistor and move it to the lower right side of 
the resistor to bypass the resistor.

If this is correct, I have a problem because when I do that, I have 
NO spark.

Also, a good spark should be white should it not? Mine is yellow, 
which would be cooler.

Bill, the I know the engine won't run with plugs pulled. I was mainly 
trying to drop a bit of oil in the cylinders to shut them up. Yes, 
the cylinders that ARE firing, cause the sensor plate to bob up and 
down when they fire. 

The new fuel distributor and injectors are beautiful. I can hear the 
injectors "chatter" when they open just as they should. 

I'm beginning to suspect a spark-type problem. I have a lot of other 
posts to read first though.

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> 
wrote:
> Bypass ballast resistor for now (just run 12v to coil). It can be
> added back once engine is up. Ensure polarity is correct.
> 
> Watch air sensor plate closely while starter motor turns engine. It
> must move down. If it doesn't, is either bound or engine is sucking
> air elsewhere.
> 
> Disconnect spark advance. Until you're on Route 50 you won't need 
it.
> Could be potential problem (Martin G's reference to Darren B helping
> me dealt with an over-advance condition).
> 
> Since you've no idea where fuel mixture screw is currently set, try 
this:
> 1) crack throttle plates a reasonable amount with lower set screw
> (just like a carburetor!). This will be temporary idle once engine 
is up.
> 2) remove idle speed motor for now. Cap take off under fuel
> distributor with a 3/4" vacuum plug. Add a 3/4" ball valve to cold
> start tube where idle speed motor used to be. Leave other end LOOSE
> (yes, a purposeful adjustable vacuum leak).
> If fuel mixture is unreasonably rich, this will let you slowly add
> unmetered air. Merely opening throttle plates won't help because 
over
> rich condition will increase correspondingly. Might work, might not.
> If engine does catch, you can back off mixture screw as ball valve 
is
> closed.
> 
> If fuel mixture is too lean, pressing down air sensor plate manually
> (in MICRO amounts) will richen for whatever throttle plate position.
> 
> BTW: when you mention pulling the plugs, are you actually removing
> them or simply disconnecting wires? Guarantee engine won't run with
> big spark plug hole.
> 
> BBTW: you're not running the original coil are you? If so, give Rich
> the comfy chair (thought you might be able to use a little Python
> humor about now). A real coil is only $25. Ask Louie G what one did
> for him.
> 
> Wouldn't it be nice if PRV ran without valve covers in place? Would
> let you watch valve train... 
> 
> If Darren B gets you running by phone, please post the results 
online.
> Am sure a lot of people have been watching this more closely than As
> the World Turns.
> 
> BBBTW: #5335 is only allowed to leave your parking lot under its own
> power. Did not lay around on wet pavement in the dark for anyone
> else's benefit.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > I believe that your guy can help. I certainly don't take it as an 
> > insult. All I'm saying is that I'm at the end of -my- knowledge.
> > 
> > I did not adjust the rocker clearances as I did not remove the 
cams. 
> > I only removed the heads, checked for warpage, cleaned them up, 
> > exhaust gaskets etc.
> > 
> > If you think it's still worth checking, I'll get on it.
> > 
> > For what it's worth, I tried to start it a little later and it 
damn 
> > near caught. It was the strongest sputter I had yet. I just can't 
> > tell what it wants. More gas, less gas, better spark or what.
> > 
> > I've had trouble with that relay that reduces the ballast 
resistor by 
> > half when you crank it. I have spark, but...
> > 
> > Anyway, I'll take help where I can get it. Thanks.
> > 
> > Rich
> > 
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski 
<webmaster@xxxx> 
> > wrote:
> > > Don't freak just yet. I've forwarded this mail to my PRV guy 
who 
> > will be 
> > > able to help, come hell or high water.  If all else fails, I'll 
> > pass on 
> > > his phoen number. Bill Robertson will back me up that he WILL 
be 
> > able to 
> > > help. He has already shown to us over here that there's a lot 
more 
> > to 
> > > this engine than what the DMC guys know (not to their 
detriment - 
> > but my 
> > > guy has the backup of years of experience on different PRVs)
> > > 
> > > BTW did you check/adjust the rocker clearances?
> > > 
> > > Martin
> > > 
> > > cruznmd wrote:
> > > 
> > > >That's right. I'm "out".
> > > >
> > > >Out of money, out of ideas and tricks, out of patience.
> > > >
> > > >I have replaced the starter, and all of the fuel components. I 
> > have 
> > > >spark on all 6 plugs, air and fuel. Too much or too little I 
don't 
> > > >know because I have no idea where to set the CO screw.
> > > >
> > > >The wires are in the correct order. I have spark. I've used a 
> > timing 
> > > >light while cranking the engine and I'm at 13 degrees BTDC.
> > > >
> > > >The engine is so tight the new starter can barely move it when 
all 
> > of 
> > > >the spark plugs are in. Obviously that's not right, but I 
followed 
> > > >the timing chain procedure in the manual and verified it with 
the 
> > > >people at DMCH.
> > > >
> > > >It shrieks like a beaten wife when it cranks because the oil I 
put 
> > in 
> > > >the cylinders to lube it is washed away by gas.
> > > >
> > > >As far as I can tell, when I pull all the plugs and start 
putting 
> > > >them in one by one, and cranking the engine with the addition 
of 
> > each 
> > > >plug, only 2 cylinders are making any kind of combustion. 
There 
> > are 
> > > >2 "thumps". As I add more plugs, there are no additional 
thumps, 
> > and 
> > > >the compression gets higher and higher as I add plugs and the 
> > engine 
> > > >slows down.
> > > >
> > > >I do not, nor am I ever likely to have funds to ship this 
thing to 
> > > >Houston or Long Island, and pay for repairs. I can pay for 
labor 
> > or 
> > > >parts, not both.
> > > >
> > > >Unless I have some kind of epiphany, 5335 will be another dead 
> > weight 
> > > >in another guy's driveway, falling apart as time eats away at 
it.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > >DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > >
> > > > 
> > > >
> > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >.
> > > >
> > > >  
> > > >

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