> 1. How do you get the trunk to actually pop open when the lever is > pulled? Mine doesn't move so I have to lift it while pulling the > lever. Do I just replace the spring in the mechanism?? There is a spring in there that may have come loose. I saw one with two springs installed to make it a little stiffer, but it still wouldn't pop open. Try checking alignment of everything. Wear marks on the loop on the hood indicate that it has been out of adjustment for a while. Also make sure the loop is not bent to one side and the bolts holding through the fiberglass are tight. > 2. Any point in getting the original door lock solenoid rewound? Or > should I get an upgraded new one from PJ Grady? My passenger side > one is very weak. I think that the new ones that PJ Grady sells are rewound old ones. You would know if he has a core charge for your old one. I heard rumor that this solenoid also fits some Chrysler product and Austin Rover Montego. I hear that rewinding just takes the right kind of wire and a lot of patience. I never tried it. > 3. how do you actually remove the ac mode switch?! I have the center > console off, and the ac illumination panel, what comes next?? There are two screws holding it in. You already removed one of them if you removed the a/c illumination panel. Next there is the bundle of vacuum lines that should all come off in one connector and same with the electrical connection. > 4. This one isn't very DMC related, but while messing around getting > my center console off I must have hit something, as now I suddenly > get engine noise interference on the radio. Any suggestions on what > I might have done?! Try looking for a loose ground. There are several black wires with eyelets on the end that screw to the radio bracket on the passenger side. Perhaps one of these got away from you. > 5. I've a leaky exhaust, so the car sounds a bit like a VW bus at > the moment. Martin, I saw your page on re-doing all the gaskets - > where did you get the parts? Can I go to my local volvo guy and get > the correct gaskets and bolts? What are the part numbers? Martin is the right guy to ask. I did it but sourced all the parts from PJ Grady. The exhaust studs are 7mm which is very rare in the US. A stud extractor made for the job is worth having. I suggest cleaning everything THOROUGHLY before you start. Be generous getting under there with the degreaser spray, brush and garden hose. The heat shields for the cat and muffler tend to disintegrate when they get wet. Now would be a good time for Ed Uding's cat bypass pipe. And don't try and do it in one day like I did or you will pull an all-nighter and then some. > 6. Just noticed I've got an original 80 amp alternator on my car. > Its a September 1981. How has it lasted this long? I thought they > were all junk! The car had 12,000 original miles a year ago, and now > has 24,000. I've never had any problems with the alternator... > Should I bother changing it or wait until it finally gives up? This depends on how often you run the a/c or if hot weather necessitates that the radiator fans run. The Ducy alternator is not up to the job of running the fans at idle. Otherwise it is almost good enough. > 7. I'm planning on buying another DMC when I get back to the USA > full time, to do a complete restoration/customisation. I'll be > looking for a car with a really bad frame (so I can buy an SS frame > for it), also with bad drivetrain, so that also can be replaced with > probably a Porsche transmission and a better engine. Anyone know of > such a car at the moment? I know of several, but the owners still think they are worth a bundle and would rather keep them and let them rot than sell them to someone who would put them to good use. > 8. I have the early locks on my car, but don't like the look of > them. But, I do like the hoodlines that come with the 81's. My last > question is were any cars made with both hoodlines and the later one- > key system? I'm curious to know the answer to this one myself. As for what came with which VIN, there seem to be exceptions to every rule. If you don't like the 2-key system door locks, those can be replaced with one-key system "upgrades" from DMCH & PJ Grady. The key hole isn't rectangular like the OEM. Instead it is kind of jagged looking. And the two-key system door locks have a high failure rate. Many were replaced while still in warranty. If you have a pair on a car that still works and you can remove them without destroying them then sell them with the keys as a kit. It would probably fetch a lot of money. Walt Yahoo! 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