Re: [DMCForum] locks left/right

[Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>]

On Tue, 26 Apr 2005, Chris Almy wrote:

> With one door locked and the other unlocked, make sure both trigger 
> wires are grounded (the brown/pink and brown/slate ones). Now switch 
> both doors from being locked/unlocked and check the trigger wires again. 
> If both remain grounded, then your switches in the door are fine and so 
> is the wiring.

You would certainly think so, but I'm beginning to wonder.  The switches 
almost behaved as you said they should, except for a spotty ground on the 
driver's side switch, which I repaired, expecting everything to start 
working properly.  Oh far from it.

This lock system is just not behaving right, and it's not entirely 
predictable either.  In the hopes that something will jump out at someone, 
here's a little chart of the various resistances with various 
configurations.  All resistances are in ohms, and I'm referencing wipe 
switch position, not door lock setting (although you can translate... up = 
locked).

All resistances are in ohms.  L = left/driver switch position, R = 
right/passenger switch position, BSG = Brown/Slate to ground, BKG = 
Brown/Pink to gound, SFL/SFR = function of moving the left/right switch to 
the other position.

With both wipe switches connected:

L  R   BSG   BKG  SFL   SFR
U  U   8.4   inf  None  None
D  D   inf  10.4  None  None
U  D  10.4   8.5  None  None
D  U   7.3   8.9  None  None


Right/passenger wipe switch only connected:

R    BSG   BKG  SFR
U   11.3   inf  Sometimes none, sometimes unlock both.  Unpredictable.
D    inf  12.6  Sometimes none, sometimes lock both.  Unpredictable.


The resistances between the trigger wires in the plugs in the doors and 
ground are (these numbers are similar enough and low enough that it 
doesn't matter which is which):  0.49, 0.53, 0.49, and 0.72.  The 
cross-resistances (pink to slate) are 282M and 240M.

I didn't measure resistances with the driver's side alone, but it's 
(lately) been operating nothing ever, although a few days ago it seemed to 
be working reliably.

If I disconnect both switches and short the trigger wires to ground on the 
harness in the relay box, the locks cycle as they should every single time 
without fail.  Same goes for shorting the trigger wires to ground in the 
doors.

This basically leaves wipe switches as the culprit here.  Those 
resistances across the switches seem rather high to me, but I'm not sure 
what to expect.  Are these numbers normal or abnormal?

At $20 each, I'm pretty tempted to just a couple of new bellcrack 
assemblies to my next parts order.

-andrew

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