Re: [DMCForum] Water pump replacement progress...

["Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>]

> Installing the silicone hose for the heater hose is a major PITA.  
Those nipples are huge!

I am never one to complain about large nipples.  What heater hose are you speaking of?  One of them going to the aluminum pipes on the frame has different sizes on each end.  The rubber hose kit I got from PJ Grady is larger on one end.  But unfortunately it is rubber.  My choice for getting silicone to work there is to use hose large enough for the larger nipple and then sleeve the inside of it with a smaller size hose.  To make it small enough to fit in the larger hose, sand off the outer protective layer including the cloth braid.  It's a little messy but when finished the hose should outlast the car.

> I am going to head out in the morning and buy a torque wrench, I 
should have initially. 

If you buy the dial variety, remember to always leave it stored on the lowest setting so that the spring doesn't fatigue over time.  You can learn a lot by reading the directions.  They should be calibrated occasionally.

> If I 
find out that I have already overtightened the y-pipe bolts should I 
loosen and then torque it correctly or does it not matter once it is 
already overtorqued and nothing bad happened?

Yes.  These bolts are a problem area.  The longer they are installed, the harder they may be to remove.  So I would do my best to get it right the first time.  I would be extra careful if you used any thread repair kits.  Did you get the broken bolt out without damage to the threads?  Also remember that the torque specs are for 'dry torque'.  There are differences of opinion on adjusting this value when using anti-seize compound or thread locker.  If anyone has an opinion on this, I am curious to hear because I dont know the rules myself.  Also if you use new bolts that are all thread with no shank, be sure to coat the extra threads with something to minimize corrosion.  Otherwise they get thinner/weaker with age and are not as strong as the original shank bolts.

> The o-ring kit I bought has one for the cold start injector tube 
where it connects to the manifold, should I replace that or not 
bother?

Eh, sure.  Why not?  While you have it apart, you might as well check the spray pattern and verify that it even has an o-ring.  Never underestimate the stupidity of a previous mechanic.

> I ordered new bearings from John hervey for the idler pullies.

I have yet to see an idler pulley bearing that is worth a shit.  John Hervey has been trying to find something better than average.  (Ooops, using John Hervery-ise I should phrase that as "better then average.")  Supposedly his blue seal ones were the answer, but I have seen several go bad in short order.  He has been selling ones with red seals lately, and maybe those are better.  I'm curious to hear what he has to say about them.  Discount auto parts sells a variety that has a metal seal that are supposed to be extreme duty.  But I haven't heard yet if those hold up well.  For the ones I have on hand that I know wont last long, I'm going to pop off the seals and repack them with hi-temp oven grease and see if that works any better.  Another strategy is to make a heat shield to protect the lower bearing like OEM does for the alternator pulley.  I got Dirk of DeLorean Stainless Steel Products to make them.  But they are shipped from Spain which makes shipping rather pricey.  DMCNews.com has a link to his site under the vendor area, I think.

> Walt, what was the method you told me for putting new coolant in? 

Well shit fire & save matches!  Cant you find it in the archives or somewhere in your inbox?  Top off the system with distilled water, bring the engine up to temperature, burp all the air out, etc.  Then add 1.5 gallons of antifreeze in the header bottle while you let distilled water drain from the thermostat bleeder port.  Do this without the engine running, and you wont loose any new antifreeze.

> Finally, I would like to order that bit from snap-on.  The drain 
plug bit.  How do I describe it to them.  Is there a name for it so 
they know eactly what I am referring to?

It is a Snap-On 8mm square head thing-a-ma-bob.  Part # PMM408
The latest guy driving around north Tampa in a Snap-On truck is George May phone 813.404.2801  I bought mine from PJ Grady.

How did the home made one I loaned you work out?

Walt

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