[DMCForum] Re: Ignition questions:

["cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Before, I had to do that, but now I'm running John Hervey's hand-made,
stainless braided, whamo-dyne coil wire. It snaps firmly into the cap
and coil.

I'm confused too. 

I bought a Sears advance/inductive timing light so I can dial in the
BTDC setting directly. So far, I'm running at 9 BTDC which is
obviously wrong. Martin G. has in the past, advocated 10 degrees, but
that didn't work well for me. I'm having difficulty reading how far
the timing advances when I rev the engine. 

I'm going to set for 13 degrees again, and work from there.

Rich

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Scott Mueller"
<scott.a.mueller@xxxx> wrote:
> Rich,
> 
> I'm curious why your car runs better with the old coil rather than
with a
> new coil.
> 
> I replaced my coil with an aftermarket coil, I think it was an
Accel.  The
> stock coil wire boot would not fit over the tower on my new coil.  I
ended
> up pushing the boot up the wire so I could get a solid connection. 
Have you
> tried this?
> 
> Scott Mueller 002981
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1@xxxx] 
> Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 10:55 AM
> To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DMCForum] Ignition questions:
> 
> 
> Symptoms: When pulling away from a dead-stop, car stutters until
RPM's build
> up. Problem is -intermittant-. Amount of RPM's until to smooth run-up
> varies.
> 
> Ballast resistor measures 1.0 ohm/.5/.5 ohms. Resistance across the
coil is
> 1.1 ohms (old coil), 1.5 ohms (new coil, which is correct) Bypassing
1/2 or
> all of the ballast resistor produces the same results. Cleaned all
contacts.
> Plugs, wires, cap and rotor are new. All H.T. wires checked for good
> connection.
> 
> Here's the twist: Installing ANY coil other than my original 23 year-old
> blue Bosch coil makes the problem WORSE. The car is barely drivable.
With
> the old coil, the car drives reasonably well, and very well when the
problem
> mysteriously disappears.
> 
> I am beginning to suspect my timing is failing to advance rapidly
enough,
> and/or far enough. My timing light broke so I'm off to buy a new one
right
> now. 
> 
> Question: The workshop manual lists degrees of advance per/RPM's.
How do I
> -precisely- measure this when the mark shoots off the scale?
> 
> The manual states: 
> 
> "...change the ECU when misfiring or jerky operation occurs, only after
> first checking the following:
> - Plugs
> - H.T. Leads
> - Position Plug Leads
> - Distributor
> - Ignition Coil"
> 
> Well, the only point I have yet to check is the distributor. I don't
really
> think it's the ECU but after checking the distributor, if it looks
like a
> duck, and quacks like a duck...
> 
> All advice welcome,
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335

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