RE: [DMCForum] Ignition questions:

["Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>]

Rich,

I'm curious why your car runs better with the old coil rather than with a
new coil.

I replaced my coil with an aftermarket coil, I think it was an Accel.  The
stock coil wire boot would not fit over the tower on my new coil.  I ended
up pushing the boot up the wire so I could get a solid connection.  Have you
tried this?

Scott Mueller 002981


-----Original Message-----
From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 10:55 AM
To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DMCForum] Ignition questions:


Symptoms: When pulling away from a dead-stop, car stutters until RPM's build
up. Problem is -intermittant-. Amount of RPM's until to smooth run-up
varies.

Ballast resistor measures 1.0 ohm/.5/.5 ohms. Resistance across the coil is
1.1 ohms (old coil), 1.5 ohms (new coil, which is correct) Bypassing 1/2 or
all of the ballast resistor produces the same results. Cleaned all contacts.
Plugs, wires, cap and rotor are new. All H.T. wires checked for good
connection.

Here's the twist: Installing ANY coil other than my original 23 year-old
blue Bosch coil makes the problem WORSE. The car is barely drivable. With
the old coil, the car drives reasonably well, and very well when the problem
mysteriously disappears.

I am beginning to suspect my timing is failing to advance rapidly enough,
and/or far enough. My timing light broke so I'm off to buy a new one right
now. 

Question: The workshop manual lists degrees of advance per/RPM's. How do I
-precisely- measure this when the mark shoots off the scale?

The manual states: 

"...change the ECU when misfiring or jerky operation occurs, only after
first checking the following:
- Plugs
- H.T. Leads
- Position Plug Leads
- Distributor
- Ignition Coil"

Well, the only point I have yet to check is the distributor. I don't really
think it's the ECU but after checking the distributor, if it looks like a
duck, and quacks like a duck...

All advice welcome,

Rich A.
#5335

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