RE: [DMCForum] Re: Fuel system updates - help!! long long long...

[Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Where are you planning to use this fuel hose?

-----Original Message-----
From: EJ Chambers [mailto:marmieej@xxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2004 8:02 AM
To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DMCForum] Re: Fuel system updates - help!! long long long...

Rich:

After I recovered from the panic attack you just gave me (j/k), I did
some looking up on my own. I did not purchase normal fuel line, but
rather fuel injection hose, denoted by the rating 30R9. Pep Boys does
have both, so make sure you get the correct type. 

After looking at various web sites, it appears that the minimum max
pressure required for 30R9 hose to operate is 100psi, which exceeds
your calculating. To top it off, many fuel injection hoses (various
vendors I assume) can operate at a much higher pressure, upto 200psi. 

Will the hose I purchased go that high? I have no clue. But as long as
it can handle upto 100psi, I should be fine.

Also, a warning!! When I went to purchase additional hosing due to
running out, I went to an Autozone to purchase more. They tried to
seel me 30R7 hose (normal fuel line, not rated for fuel injection). I
told them that was not fuel injection hose and to look at the
reference number. They claimed that is what they sell as fuel
injection hosing. I did not purchase the hose and just went to the
nearest Pep Boys.

Let me know what you think and your take is.

Ej

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Ej,
> 
> Hey, I've cross-referenced some parts at the local parts houses, but 
> fuel line from PepBoys? Are you trying to go out in a blaze of glory?
> 
> The main line (primary pressure) called out in the manual is 4.9-5.3 
> bars. A bar is 14.25 psi. That comes out to 71-ish psi. Higher than 
> your typical Volvo fuel system if the literature I read is correct.
> 
> Personally, I wouldn't run fuel line other than vendor approved but 
> I'm not here to lecture. Just be careful.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Rich
> 
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "EJ Chambers" <marmieej@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hey Walter:
> > 
> > "> That weaved thread is exposed because the original black
> > > vinyl(?) coating rotted & fell off."
> > 
> > That makes sense. My car sat for literally 20yrs so any plastic,
> > rubber that sat outside has become brittle. I did replace replace 
> with
> > fuel injection hose from Pep Boys. Due to many lines becoming 
> brittle
> > and hard (or missing), I've been using this line for awhile now 
> (with
> > hose clamps of course) with no problems. This includes on both
> > pressurized and non-pressurized lines.
> > 
> > ">I also would not trust any generic fuel injection
> > > hose because most of it is rated at a lower pressure than
> > > what the Bosch K-Jetronic uses."
> > 
> > I have to inquire at what pressure does the Bosch K-Jetronic operate
> > at? I would be very interested in knowing.
> > 
> > I personally have had great luck with the SpecialTAuto baffle. 
> > 
> > ">Anyway, the only real problem with it is
> > > that whatever glue/epoxy he used to attach a nipple the fuel
> > > suction screen got ate up by the fuel"
> > 
> > This issue did not exist on the baffle kit that I received. If this
> > did pose an issue at one point in time, it appears to have been
> > corrected. 
> > 
> > Just sharing my experiences. Thanks for the info!
> > 
> > Ej
> > 
> > 
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> > > > I have been having hot start problems and then one night I
> > > was driving home and the car whinned in the front and
> > > started to convulse and buck all around.
> > > 
> > > Hi Brian,
> > > This could be from sucking air (low fuel or hole/tear in
> > > fuel suction hose).  Maybe the suction screen is clogged or
> > > rotted apart.  That would allow chunks to clog the pump.
> > > The hot start problem could be caused by junk lodged in the
> > > fuel pump's check valve keeping it open.  Or it could be
> > > caused by a bad accumulator or whatever.
> > > 
> > > > I'm also considering replacing the accumulator and perhaps
> > > the
> > > coil... just to update the system a bit.  Is this a good
> > > idea or not
> > > really neccessary?
> > > 
> > > Maybe.  If you do replace them, I suggest test-driving the
> > > car after each project.  Then if there is a problem with a
> > > new part, you have fewer things to suspect.  Replacing the
> > > original coil with something newer (provided it is a proper
> > > replacement) can make an improvement.
> > > 
> > > Replacing the accumulator is a really tough job.  You run
> > > the risk of kinking hard lines, not being able to properly
> > > attach new hoses, etc.  And when you cut loose the original
> > > hoses from the barbs, don't scratch the damn barbs with a
> > > razor.  It makes them more prone to leaks.  This is easily a
> > > project that may require you to order additional parts once
> > > you get into it.  A stubby set of wrenches is very useful.
> > > Also sometimes I use line wrench crow-foots (aka flair nut
> > > wrenches) on swivels & extensions just to get up in there.
> > > Rob Grady told me that he can heat & attach new hoses to the
> > > barbs while they are on the car.  My advice: don't try this
> > > at home.  It takes some practice to get good at attaching
> > > hoses even while the fittings are off the car.  This
> > > wouldn't be an issue if they sold hoses with new fittings,
> > > but some of the them are no longer available.
> > > 
> > > > Also, in the process the plastic gas line hose with weaved
> > > thread (or
> > > whatever it is) was broke in 3 different places.
> > > 
> > > Hi EJ,
> > > That weaved thread is exposed because the original black
> > > vinyl(?) coating rotted & fell off.
> > > 
> > > > Had to replace with fuel injection hose.
> > > 
> > > The only kind of replacement hose that I have liked so far
> > > is what PJ Grady sells.  It's very orange, though.  It goes
> > > on the same way as the original (have to heat it) & requires
> > > no hose clamps.  I would not trust any kind of hose clamp on
> > > the high pressure side of the fuel system (my personal
> > > bias).  I also would not trust any generic fuel injection
> > > hose because most of it is rated at a lower pressure than
> > > what the Bosch K-Jetronic uses.
> > > 
> > > > If you do go ahead and replace the pump, or hoses I would
> > > definitely
> > > recommend the new baffle unit sold by SpecialTAuto.
> > > 
> > > I've seen one of these before.  I forgot who's car it was
> > > in... Samuel's?  Anyway, the only real problem with it is
> > > that whatever glue/epoxy he used to attach a nipple the fuel
> > > suction screen got ate up by the fuel.  If you buy his
> > > baffle, I recommend asking first if he is aware of and
> > > corrected this problem.  If you're not on a tight budget, I
> > > suggest keeping the fuel baffle original.  The suction hose
> > > made by Ken K (sold by PJ Grady) is the best.  This way the
> > > fuel suction screen can touch the bottom of the tank.  This
> > > makes it less apt to suck air without transmitting fuel pump
> > > vibrations.  If the suction screen on the SpecialTAuto rig
> > > touches the bottom of the tank, a lot more vibration will be
> > > heard.  If it's too high then you won't be able to use all
> > > the fuel in the tank.
> > > 
> > > Fuel pump boots only last about 5 to 7 years of normal use.
> > > No one makes a boot that is worth a shit.  Of all that I've
> > > seen, I like Don Steger's boot & cover the best.  The boot
> > > cover that PJ Grady sells looks exactly like OEM, but it
> > > shrinks & turns rock hard in the presence of fuel vapors.
> > > 
> > > Walt



 
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