On Fri, 24 Oct 2003, Walter Coe wrote:
> > When it gets really hot, as it does for a lot of the
> summer in Houston, I still sweat.
>
> You can make your R-134a system blow as cold as an original R-12 system
> just by replacing your fixed orifice tube with a modern variable orifice
> valve (VOV).
Hmm... I'll have to ask my mechanic what's in there. I know we changed
the orifice when switching over to 134, but I don't know anything about
the one that was put it. Except I think it was yellow.
> And then again maybe actually not. Check the fuse. (sorry!) It is one
> of those 20A ones that tend to melt in the fuse block. When it gets
> dirty then the clutch slips and dies.
Naah... It's already been moved out of the fuse box into a nice inline
socket, and it's in great condition. I went though that entire circuit,
checking and cleaning every connection, and it just didn't help. The new
compressor did.
> {coughing and yelling bullshit at the same time}
Okay, I may have bought a line of manufacturer bullshit.
> Then why did Sanden/Sankyo technical support claim that there were no
> issues with using their old compressors when converting to R-134a?
> I've seen an electronic copy of the document being passed around.
Didn't they say something to the effect of "we don't recommend doing this,
but since lots of people are, here's how to do it right"?
Of course, they're in the business of selling compressors, and wouldn't
mind selling a few more to people who don't need them...
> heh heh. Did you check the one on top of the intake manifold?
> (drivers side toward the front.)
Not since the new engine went in, but then, if anything the engine should
have made it better, not worse.
> Ah yes, my favorite vendor. Just curious: Does the alternator pulley
> line up properly with the belt? I bet it sits too far toward the front
> of the car by about 1/8th".
I was going to say yes until you said 1/8". I haven't noticed any
misalignment, but I might not notice one that small without specifically
looking for it.
> For troubleshooting, I suggest double-checking the alternator. Try a
> different one preferably from a good-running DeLorean IF you have access
> to one. How about your old alternator? What was it doing?
I've still got the old one. Both it and the one from John test good
(although the original one is oozing some pretty nasty stuff out the
bottom). Back when I first installed this alternator, John let me borrow
another 140 amp just be sure. It also tested good, but no help for the
car.
On the bright side, I've gotten good enough that I can swap an alternator
on a Delorean in about 20 minutes. :)
> > I stop at a light and the volt meter drops to about 9, the
> blower, if it's on, slows to a crawl, the lights dim, and pretty
> frequently the radio even resets itself.
>
> Ding ding ding! This is NORMAL! Even with regular cars this can be
normal.
> Many cars cannot maintain being run at idle continuously with the a/c
on.
Well, sure, I expect the system to sag a little, but so much that even my
radio, which I'd bet is pretty damn tolerant of low voltage, is shutting
off and restarting? I'll grant you that an idling car with all the
accessories on is going to droop a little, but I'm still convinced we're
looking at more than just that here.
> I got an Optima sealed gel battery. The system voltage recovers much
> quicker after sitting at a light.
I've got one. I went for a yellow top because I so frequently manage to
drain it one way or another. I've been really pleased with this battery
so far. (I've had it about three months now, and I've already managed to
drain it three times. No, not from idling with a sagging electrical
system. I'm just really talented at doing things like leaving my lights
on.)
> > If I start the car cold and don't turn on draining accessories like
the AC
> or headlights, I'll actually get good voltage at idle for a while, the
> first several minutes at least, but then it goes away.
>
> This is also normal. Believe it or not, the volt meters on our dashes
are
> actually meant to work on 6 volt systems. ...
Aaah, okay. That's something I never new. That certainly explains the
slow drop.
Yawn.
I'm in the middle of putting together this indiglo dash setup. UV paint's
drying on the needles right now. Seems like DMC made the needles out of
some magic plastic to which masking tape does not stick one bit. Masking
them proved rather difficult.
Hopefully I'll get the whole thing put back together tomorrow and, if
I'm lucky, I might even be able to see the needles.
-andrew
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