Re: [DMCForum] CUSTOM RIMS
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Re: [DMCForum] CUSTOM RIMS



Rick,

I posted some photos on the DMCForum photos section of various aftermarket
rims.  Click the link
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DMCForum/ and then click "Photos".

The dimensions you mention are what most people tend to agree on; however,
I
suggest carefully measuring your OEM rims before you spend the bucks.  I
say
this because all the front rims that I have looked at had the following
markings on the back side, "6JJx14x35".   Presumably "6" is the rim width,
"14" is the diameter and "35" is the offset.

Some caveats when shopping for aftermarket rims:

The rear hubs have spacers held on with a phillips screw.  If your new
rims
need an adapter, calculate the width of the adapter to eliminate the OEM
spacer.  Using the spacer effectively makes the hub shorter and less
effective when mounting hub-centric.  Removing it makes extra width
available to the adapter making it stronger.

The OEM spacers saved from the rear hubs can be used on the front if
necessary.  Extras can be bought from the vendors.

If you use spacers/adapters, make sure that they are made with a 72mm hub
to
fit the new rim and a hub hole on the other side to tightly fit the car
(very slightly larger than 72mm).  Make sure that the hole is deep enough
so
that the adapters fit flush.

Most rim manufactures will not warranty a rim if it has been mounted
lug-centric.  Lug-centric means that the hub hole is too big and proper
centering of the wheel depends on the lugs lining up properly as you
tighten
the nuts.  Hub-centric means that the hole fits neatly over the hub &
centers the wheel before you tighten the nuts.

The OEM front rim width is 6", and this is rather narrow by industry
standards.  Few manufactures make rims this narrow, so normally people end
up using 7".  For best handling characteristics, it is best to choose your
offset so that this extra inch is evenly divided on both sides.  If you
put
it all toward the center then you may have clearance problems.  If you put
it all toward the outside, this transmits more vibration & road feel
though
the steering wheel as well as slings more mud on your fenders.

Look at the outer edges of your front sway bar and see how the tires rub
it.
Depending on your front alignment, the wheels rub the sway bar at about
the
same time that the steering rack stops lock-to-lock.  If you put wider
rims
on the front, you may decrease your turning radius due to interference
with
the sway bar.  Also depending on the diameter vs. width & offset, it may
be
the metal part of the rim scraping the sway bar instead of the rubber.

Whether using OEM or aftermarket rims, it is a good idea to put a very
thin
coat of thick grease between the rim & the hub.  This will help to reduce
the chemical reaction that happens from the dissimilar metals -- aluminum
vs. steel plus moisture & road salt equals some nasty oxidation.  Be
careful
not to get any grease on the lugs.  They are meant to be dry-torqued.

Be very leery of a dealer who re-drills the lug hole pattern to make a rim
fit your car.  Drilling a new hole is fine if properly done, but drilling
an
existing hole to change the lug spacing is a bad idea.  You end up with
your
lug nuts seating on oblong holes that don't hold a torque well.
Correcting
this with a pressed-in steel insert makes a crappy job.

Make sure that your OEM lug wrench still fits.  The clearance between the
lug nut & hole may be too tight for your OEM lug wrench.  Or you may end
up
with aftermarket lug nuts that don't fit your original wrench.  Stuck on
the
side of the road changing a flat tire is a bad time to learn this.

Let us know what you come up with.  The TSW rims you saw on my car when we
met in Orlando were not worth the effort.  The dealer drilled the hole
pattern inaccurately and had to repair & re-powdercoat them.  It wasn't
worth the hassle.  And the dealer wouldn't make good on them after I found
out that the rims rub the sway bar.  It would take a lawsuit to make it
right.

Walt



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