RE: [doc] Re: Clutch Replacement - Very Long Reply!

["Kevin Milliken" <kevin.milliken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Richard, Martin and Chris

Thanks for the help on this one.

The "Very Long Reply!" was very helpful


  -----Original Message-----
  From: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of
Richard
  Sent: 06 June 2005 01:26
  To: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  Subject: RE: [doc] Re: Clutch Replacement - Very Long Reply!


  Hi Kevin

  Myself and Rich Hanlon (and his neighbour in the end!) removed and
  refitted my Ds gearbox in December, I couldn't have done it on my own.

  We did the job with the car on ramps (I have a particularly high set)
  and it was a 'mare. I can -just- comfortably carry the gearbox, so you
  can imagine how hard it is trying to manipulate the thing lying on yer
  back with virtually no leverage to lift it. In the end it took three of
  us to remove and refit it like this. If you have a lift or a pit it will
  be easier.

  Don't attempt to do it on your own, the weight of a gearbox falling on
  yer face doesn't bear thinking about...

  You have to remove the starter to get at a plate behind it which has to
  come out. There are also two farty metal plates attached to the gearbox,
  which cover the flywheel at the bottom and the LHS the bolts face the
  back of the car, but are unbolted from underneath. They will be covered
  in gunge, and you have to undo them 'blind'. These two plates absolutely
  -MUST- be removed - a painful lesson well learnt.

  Both drive shafts will have to be removed, six bolts on either side of
  both shafts - yes that's 24 bolts!

  You have to disconnect two linkages, one cable, one rod MARK THEM before
  removal. The clutch slave must also be removed, which can apparently be
  done without removing the inlet manifold, however mine has been off and
  on so many times, I found it quicker to remove the manifold...Don't try
  and get the gearbox out with the slave still attached, you're wasting
  your time...

  You must also detach the clutch line from the top of the gearbox, it is
  easier to unbolt the bracket from the box, than splitting the line at
  the union.

  As Martin says, there are two brackets at the front end of the box, and
  four bolts onto the engine. Leave the top two engine/box bolts till last
  and use a jack or something to support the box weight when you have the
  bolts out, otherwise all the weight will be hanging on the input shaft.

  NB - At this point consider what would be involved if you decide to
  remove the engine AND gearbox. Although you could leave the slave
  attached you'd still have to start on removing the rear fascia,
  disconnecting the fuel lines, removing AC compressor, draining the
  cooling system, disconnecting the cooling hoses, heater hoses, wiring
  loom, vacuum pipes, unbolting engine mounts, exhaust pipes, and you'd
  need an engine hoist....

  The box needs -A LOT- of support whilst you slide it back from the
  engine and lower it to the floor, I had myself and Rich at the front
  (heavy) end and another chap heaving the end out the engine. Put a thick
  blanket down, then if you lower it onto someone's fingers they wont get
  crushed :)

  Remove old clutch. You can't see the rear crankshaft oil seal without
  removing the flywheel (heavy) but if you notice seeping oil at the
  bottom of the engine it may be worth checking out. You are supposed to
  renew the 7 flywheel bolts if you remove them, the Volvo 760 ones are
  the -wrong- length - too short.

  Whether you decide to remove the flywheel to check the oil seal or not,
  it is certainly worth replacing the Pilot Bearing. I had a clever
  technique to get it out if you don't have a bearing puller, email me if
  you want details. Don't bother with Volvo for a replacement. Take it to
  your local bearing place and they will be able to match it off the
  shelf, its bog standard and cost about three quid.

  I eyeballed the clutch alignment, although you can get a special tool.

  When refitting the box, use a piece of long string to bow-tie the clutch
  release arm back, then once in situe pull the string out. Otherwise the
  release arm will fall out just when you're utterly knackered from
  heaving the box in place - and you'll have to do it all again!!!!

  The engine will have tipped backwards on its mounts without the gearbox
  the counterbalance it. You'll need to jack up the rear of the engine to
  level it out again, go easy or you'll damage the engine mounts. Now you
  get to test out your clutch alignment skills :)

  You will have to reset the linkages after refitting, I didn't bother
  marking them since my shift was all wrong anyway...

  Refit and blead clutch system.

  It took us a whole day to get the box out, and another whole day to get
  it back in again, then I rebuilt the inlet manifold/engine the following
  day since I was too knackered!! There was a lot of learning to be done,
  and a lot of time wasted making mistakes, I'd still give it two days if
  I were you.

  The most demanding job I've done, but oh so very worth it in the end :D

  Rich H(utchinson)
  DOC 365 VIN 1274

  > -----Original Message-----
  > From: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
  Of
  > Kevin Milliken
  > Sent: 05 June 2005 15:05
  > To: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  > Subject: [doc] Re: Clutch Replacement
  >
  >
  > Hi Guys
  >
  > From the wealth of experience out there:
  >
  > Can you change the clutch situ i.e, just by pulling the gearbox of the
  > engine and leaving the engine or do you have to pull the engine as
  well ?
  >
  > What is the easiest way of doing it ??
  >
  > Exactly what is involved ? suggestions please .
  >
  > Thanks
  >
  >
  > Kevin '#5959
  >



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