RE: [doc] Re: Clutch Replacement - Very Long Reply!

["Richard" <dickyh11@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Kevin

Myself and Rich Hanlon (and his neighbour in the end!) removed and
refitted my Ds gearbox in December, I couldn't have done it on my own.

We did the job with the car on ramps (I have a particularly high set)
and it was a 'mare. I can -just- comfortably carry the gearbox, so you
can imagine how hard it is trying to manipulate the thing lying on yer
back with virtually no leverage to lift it. In the end it took three of
us to remove and refit it like this. If you have a lift or a pit it will
be easier.

Don't attempt to do it on your own, the weight of a gearbox falling on
yer face doesn't bear thinking about...

You have to remove the starter to get at a plate behind it which has to
come out. There are also two farty metal plates attached to the gearbox,
which cover the flywheel at the bottom and the LHS the bolts face the
back of the car, but are unbolted from underneath. They will be covered
in gunge, and you have to undo them 'blind'. These two plates absolutely
-MUST- be removed - a painful lesson well learnt.

Both drive shafts will have to be removed, six bolts on either side of
both shafts - yes that's 24 bolts!

You have to disconnect two linkages, one cable, one rod MARK THEM before
removal. The clutch slave must also be removed, which can apparently be
done without removing the inlet manifold, however mine has been off and
on so many times, I found it quicker to remove the manifold...Don't try
and get the gearbox out with the slave still attached, you're wasting
your time...

You must also detach the clutch line from the top of the gearbox, it is
easier to unbolt the bracket from the box, than splitting the line at
the union.

As Martin says, there are two brackets at the front end of the box, and
four bolts onto the engine. Leave the top two engine/box bolts till last
and use a jack or something to support the box weight when you have the
bolts out, otherwise all the weight will be hanging on the input shaft.

NB - At this point consider what would be involved if you decide to
remove the engine AND gearbox. Although you could leave the slave
attached you'd still have to start on removing the rear fascia,
disconnecting the fuel lines, removing AC compressor, draining the
cooling system, disconnecting the cooling hoses, heater hoses, wiring
loom, vacuum pipes, unbolting engine mounts, exhaust pipes, and you'd
need an engine hoist....

The box needs -A LOT- of support whilst you slide it back from the
engine and lower it to the floor, I had myself and Rich at the front
(heavy) end and another chap heaving the end out the engine. Put a thick
blanket down, then if you lower it onto someone's fingers they wont get
crushed :)

Remove old clutch. You can't see the rear crankshaft oil seal without
removing the flywheel (heavy) but if you notice seeping oil at the
bottom of the engine it may be worth checking out. You are supposed to
renew the 7 flywheel bolts if you remove them, the Volvo 760 ones are
the -wrong- length - too short.

Whether you decide to remove the flywheel to check the oil seal or not,
it is certainly worth replacing the Pilot Bearing. I had a clever
technique to get it out if you don't have a bearing puller, email me if
you want details. Don't bother with Volvo for a replacement. Take it to
your local bearing place and they will be able to match it off the
shelf, its bog standard and cost about three quid.

I eyeballed the clutch alignment, although you can get a special tool.

When refitting the box, use a piece of long string to bow-tie the clutch
release arm back, then once in situe pull the string out. Otherwise the
release arm will fall out just when you're utterly knackered from
heaving the box in place - and you'll have to do it all again!!!!

The engine will have tipped backwards on its mounts without the gearbox
the counterbalance it. You'll need to jack up the rear of the engine to
level it out again, go easy or you'll damage the engine mounts. Now you
get to test out your clutch alignment skills :)

You will have to reset the linkages after refitting, I didn't bother
marking them since my shift was all wrong anyway...

Refit and blead clutch system.

It took us a whole day to get the box out, and another whole day to get
it back in again, then I rebuilt the inlet manifold/engine the following
day since I was too knackered!! There was a lot of learning to be done,
and a lot of time wasted making mistakes, I'd still give it two days if
I were you.

The most demanding job I've done, but oh so very worth it in the end :D

Rich H(utchinson)
DOC 365 VIN 1274

> -----Original Message-----
> From: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of
> Kevin Milliken
> Sent: 05 June 2005 15:05
> To: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [doc] Re: Clutch Replacement
> 
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> From the wealth of experience out there:
> 
> Can you change the clutch situ i.e, just by pulling the gearbox of the
> engine and leaving the engine or do you have to pull the engine as
well ?
> 
> What is the easiest way of doing it ??
> 
> Exactly what is involved ? suggestions please .
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Kevin '#5959
> 


            
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