Re: [doc] -new accumulator update

["blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi martin

thankyou for the post, no it would not start with 1/4 gas pedal but 
by then could have flooded and battery was low so had a jump kit 
also on it.

as you say runs too long for cold start petrol only.
tank, pump, filter screen, main filter, accumulator all new.

there is definately a buzz when running, stops a second or two after 
stalling.

and when stalling, no amount of accelerator pedal helps.

one problem with the pressure test....have not got a test kit yet!!!.

i still think CPR....ie a loss of fuel pressure, hence a gather they 
can be cleaned, if not fairly cheap to buy $130 or so plus shipping 
each way and after 24 years replacement would not hurt.

Will try cleaning first.

Still all is not too bad after 12 years standing.

urgent job though, fix leak at back of water pump as a puddle each 
time i run the engine...not good.

Regards

Steve

vin 1621
doc 370





--- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <martin@xxxx> wrote:
> Just to add to Nick's comments below:
> 
> > Put a fuel pressure tester on and test the system according to 
the 
> > book instead of second guessing what it could be.
> 
> Absolutely. This is usually a really illuminating experience and 
you 
> know immediately where the problem is before you spend a couple of 
> hundred ona  CPR.
> 
> >
> > What you have proven in your swapping plugs is that the 12v at 
the 
> > grey plug has run the cold start valve dumping some fuel in the 
inlet 
> > manifold.
> >
> > Make sure you get 12v at the CPR. 
> 
> Errm - didn't you just establish this by running the cold start 
valve 
> off it?
> 
> > Measure across the pins of the CPR itself (about 20 ohms, if not 
then 
> > open circuit and it needs replacing).
> 
> Not really - it will just mean it warms up a bit more slowly, from 
> engine heat alone. Five minutes instead of two and you'll barely 
notice 
> any difference. It does sound like you might have a dodgy 
thermotime 
> switch but again, this will not cause the problem you describe of 
> stalling after a while
> 
> >
> > Make sure fuel pump runs at all, bridge pins 87 and 30 at the 
RPM 
> > relay (large black with blue, 6 pins) to run the pump all the 
time to 
> > see if this starts your car.
> 
> Brown to white/purple, diagonally opposite one another on the 
plug. But 
> we know this works because the car runs for a while before 
stalling. It 
> sounds too consistent to me to be the RPM relay, but they can be 
wierd! 
> Simple question is: can you hear the pump running when you're 
cranking 
> and failing to start?
> 
> >
> > Rough guide, gently press the fuel metering flap down, if there 
is 
> > some resistance then chances are you have fuel pressure built up 
ok, 
> > if it is very floppy then you don't have enough fuel pressure 
there. 
> > Get a friend to crank engine while you hold this down to bleed/ 
prime 
> > the system.
> 
> But let go the moment the engine catches.
> 
> >
> > BTW the lambda system will run when the engine is running 
(assuming 
> > that the fuel eco is powered up from relay 12 that is powered 
from the 
> > RPM relay 87b) but it runs in fixed duty cycle until the lambda 
> > thermal switch goes off and the oxygen sensor is warm enough 
(about 5 
> > mins of normal driving, not idling). The frequency valve at the 
right 
> > hand cylinder cam cover near the bulkhead when looking at the 
car from 
> > the back should buzz when the engine is running.
> 
> Yep. If it doesn't buzz, there're two really simple problems that 
are 
> the most likely cause. One is a ground connection on the front end 
of 
> the right hand side of the intake manifold, just above #1 and the 
other 
> is the relay in the yellow socket is not a 2x 15A one.
> 
> The symptoms described do not suggest a lambda fault. It's either 
CPR or 
> idlespeed. Will it start if revved?
> 
> Martin








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