Re: [doc] -new accumulator update

[Martin Gutkowski <martin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Just to add to Nick's comments below:

> Put a fuel pressure tester on and test the system according to the 
> book instead of second guessing what it could be.

Absolutely. This is usually a really illuminating experience and you 
know immediately where the problem is before you spend a couple of 
hundred ona  CPR.

>
> What you have proven in your swapping plugs is that the 12v at the 
> grey plug has run the cold start valve dumping some fuel in the inlet 
> manifold.
>
> Make sure you get 12v at the CPR. 

Errm - didn't you just establish this by running the cold start valve 
off it?

> Measure across the pins of the CPR itself (about 20 ohms, if not then 
> open circuit and it needs replacing).

Not really - it will just mean it warms up a bit more slowly, from 
engine heat alone. Five minutes instead of two and you'll barely notice 
any difference. It does sound like you might have a dodgy thermotime 
switch but again, this will not cause the problem you describe of 
stalling after a while

>
> Make sure fuel pump runs at all, bridge pins 87 and 30 at the RPM 
> relay (large black with blue, 6 pins) to run the pump all the time to 
> see if this starts your car.

Brown to white/purple, diagonally opposite one another on the plug. But 
we know this works because the car runs for a while before stalling. It 
sounds too consistent to me to be the RPM relay, but they can be wierd! 
Simple question is: can you hear the pump running when you're cranking 
and failing to start?

>
> Rough guide, gently press the fuel metering flap down, if there is 
> some resistance then chances are you have fuel pressure built up ok, 
> if it is very floppy then you don't have enough fuel pressure there. 
> Get a friend to crank engine while you hold this down to bleed/ prime 
> the system.

But let go the moment the engine catches.

>
> BTW the lambda system will run when the engine is running (assuming 
> that the fuel eco is powered up from relay 12 that is powered from the 
> RPM relay 87b) but it runs in fixed duty cycle until the lambda 
> thermal switch goes off and the oxygen sensor is warm enough (about 5 
> mins of normal driving, not idling). The frequency valve at the right 
> hand cylinder cam cover near the bulkhead when looking at the car from 
> the back should buzz when the engine is running.

Yep. If it doesn't buzz, there're two really simple problems that are 
the most likely cause. One is a ground connection on the front end of 
the right hand side of the intake manifold, just above #1 and the other 
is the relay in the yellow socket is not a 2x 15A one.

The symptoms described do not suggest a lambda fault. It's either CPR or 
idlespeed. Will it start if revved?

Martin





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