RE: [doc] re rear hub removal...help!!!

["Richard Hanlon" <rahanlon@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Re. rear caliper bolts - As daft as it sounds, as well as a thwack with a 
hammer to free the threads, (a very good policy) it can help to try 
tightening a tiny bit (not always possible I know!!) before loosening, to 
break the 'bind' without starting to apply torque in the 'undo' direction - 
reduces the chance of shearing the bolt off...

Failing that, a *gentle* play around the outside of the thread with a 
blow-torch (hot, but not melting!) will always work.  Just heat the outside, 
not the bolt-head itself - you want the hole to expand, not the bolt!!  You 
can get them for a tenner in Wilko's.

Rich Hanlon
(393/ 06126)

>From: "Richard" <dickyh11@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: RE: [doc] re rear hub removal...help!!!
>Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 14:19:08 +0100
>
>Hi Steve
>
>Not sure how the rear hubs come apart yet, one of the few jobs I've not
>done.
>
>Try giving the rear callipers bolt heads a good thwack with a hammer,
>this can help shock the threads free...
>
>If you have rebuilt the master, and your slave is not leaking, bleeding
>is a piece of piddle. The hardest bit (a complete git to be honest) is
>getting at the bleed screw which is tucked right at the front of the
>engine, you usually have to clamber onto the engine to get at it -
>removing the air box helps too. You cant really see it, so you have to
>go by feel...
>
>I use one of those cheap one man bleed kits, takes about 20 minutes.
>
>Rich H
>DOC 365 VIN 1274
>
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
>Of
> > blackaddertoo
> > Sent: 19 April 2005 13:52
> > To: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: [doc] re rear hub removal...help!!!
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi All
> >
> > my rebuild of vin 1621 is going ok (but slow) but i've come to the
> > rear brakes.
> >
> > Does anyone know if it is ok to put into gear (manual) to stop rear
> > wheel and hub nut turning. At present the hub nut turns with the
> > wheel and i cannot see how to remove it particularly as the torque
> > setting is 270!!!. i don't know anyone with a wrench up to this, if
> > so the handle would be 5 foot long!!
> >
> > Also are there any tips on removing the rear calipers. i can only
> > get access with a normal spanner and the bolts won't budge (tried
> > release oil). torque i meant to be 40 but they must have rusted on.
> > i gather that the aluminium hub carrier can be broken if no carefull.
> >
> > any help would be appreciated as i am waiting to get to drive the
> > car.
> >
> > did anyone rebuilding have any problems with the clutch?? i have yet
> > to try as i have rebuilt the master but need a good few!! hours to
> > bleed the clutch (if the slave is OK).
> >
> > thanx for any help
> >
> > regards
> >
> > Steve
> > DOC 370
> > VIN 1621
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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