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Fuel distributors and WUR’s are factory
sealed and if you take them apart you can’t buy parts or calibrate them. Those
are the 2 items that even I leave up to the professionals. Any one that works
on CIS fuel systems will tell you that. John Hervey From:
First, let me thank all that have responded with helpful
hints. I have been gone for a few days so no progress, till today I decided today to pull the fuel distributor and check the
plunger action. As soon as I got it off I noticed the first problem----no
O-ring between it and the mixture control. Put it on the bench and tried
to move the plunger----no movement either up or down, frozen in position. So here’s my question----can I soak it in PB Blaster and
see it that frees it up. If not, can I disassemble the part that holds
the plunger in place?? It looks like it is held in place with a very thin
nut and washer. I don’t want to proceed until I hear from the
group. Thanks again for all your great help. Mike TPS 1630 Sent from Windows Mail From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Another cause for over-rich
running can be the plunger in the fuel unit is stuck. If you feel no resistance
on the air sensor while the motor is running then that is a distinct
possibility. As for a running Cold Start Valve, just pull the plug off. The
valve is not known to go bad but you could have a problem with the wiring or
the TT switch. Or maybe someone did the plug swap and did not put the plugs
back. What color plug is on the CSV? David Teitelbaum
I have been reviewing your
troubles and I am responding at this point because I believe this may be where
the real problem may have shown itself. The spark basics
are probably ok - it is running. The black smoke is too much fuel - that
is the big issue to solve first I believe. First, it sounds to me (based on
the symptoms). like the cold -start valve is
always "on" . The "blue connector is on the cold-start
valve ?- not the black connector that belongs on the CPR. This is a common
switch to get a "choke effect" sometimes if needed but, fuel will
really dump into the engine if the cold-start valve remains open. If you
have the correct connections and your not sure if the cold-start valve is
working correctly - take it off and stick it in a can and plug the cold-start
hole. While it is in the can you can see if it works correctly. There is a
thermo-time switch that controls that valve - they rarely go bad but do get
broken on the top. Something to check. The thermo-time switch is suppose to
turn off the cold start valve after a short time as it heats up from the
electric draw or turns off because the engine warms up. Failure is usually an
open circuit but, if it fails closed, the cold-start valve can be always on. Second - if you have messed with
the fuel adjustment - are you sure it is back in the same spot where the engine
was at least running? if it was running, that adjusting screw is the last thing
to adjust. I am assuming it was running fine when it was
"stored". And yes the hole should be closed - there is a special
plug you can order from DMCH for that. A non-functioning FV
usually results in too little fuel. The FV is probably not the problem - at
least the old one - the one you put in may be but, those too rarely go bad.
Power is provided by the fuel pump control relay. You may have a bad fuel
distributor - at least the plunger rod and pressure control parts that
provide resistance for the plunger to regulate the fuel flow to the injectors.
When the fuel system is pressurized that plunger and the air valve disc you see should
have resistance. When it is pushed down manually while the
engine is running will usually kill the engine because it "floods
" it. It should move only slightly when you rev the engine with the
throttle valve. The CPR does play a role in this but basically when the
engine is cold. If it is not leaking and the screen is clean it is
probably working ok. I could go into the spark stuff
but I doubt that spark is your problem. Bottom line ---- too much fuel.
Start looking for things that can cause that - then be sure that all
of the air leaks are closed. Harold McElraft - 3354, et.al.
Martin,
I must have confused you. I'm keeping the car at 2000 rpm because if it
drops below 1500, it will quit. Then the only way I can start it is
pull the plugs and clean all the black soot off them and then let it set for a
couple hours. And no, I have not touched the mixture screw, although the
cover is missing. Latest
update: I just came up from the garage. I had started the car, kept
it running at 2000 rpm until I started to get a temperature reading on my
dash. The longer it ran, the higher I had to keep the rpm so
it wouldn't quit. After about 15 minutes, I was up to 3000 rpm to
keep it running. The whole time, it was missing and blowing black smoke
out the tailpipes. I shut it down, let it sit for a few minutes and tried
a restart. No start or even a hint of starting. Now I have an oil
leak to go along with the starting problems, but that can wait until figure out
the rich mixture problem. Mike From: Martin Gutkowski
<martin@...> And
you haven't touched the mixture screw since she last ran?
I'll assume yes. Sent from my
BlackBerry® From: mike
clemens <rmclemns@...> Sender: Date: Sat,
26 Oct 2013 13:44:38 -0700 (PDT) To: ReplyTo: Subject: Re:
[DML] STARTING PROBLEMS Martin,
If you are refering to plunger attached to the air intake flapper, then
yes. It moves freely. As a matter of fact, air intake was fully
open at 2000 rpm. Mike From: Martin Gutkowski
<martin@...> Is the
plunger in the metering head moving freely? Best Wishes, Martin Sent from my
BlackBerry® From: mike
clemens <rmclemns@...> Sender: Date: Sat,
26 Oct 2013 13:04:42 -0700 (PDT) To: ReplyTo: Subject: [DML]
STARTING PROBLEMS Okay, got one
that has me stumped. First, some history. This car has
not run in 8+ years. It was stored inside with ethanol
gas in the tank--first big mistake. I pulled the fuel pump, drained the
tank, and cleaned the entire inside. I installed a new fuel pump with the
John Harvey pickup and return (no more rubber hoses to deterioate).
Next I flushed the entire system from the fuel pump to the mixture
control using 93 octane gas. I pulled the plugs, cleaned and tested
4.0. I pulled the fuel injectors, cleaned and tested. Good 35
degree spray pattern on all six. I purchased a new battery and was ready
to big test. After several
trys, engine caught and ran at ran rough at 2000 rpm. It
wouldn't idle and I shut it down after about 10 seconds to check for
any leaks. All checked out dry so I tried to start again. Would not
start, although it was always right at the verge of starting. I pulled
the plugs and injectors and recleaned them. Put it all back together and
tried again. Started again, but I had to keep the rpm above 2000 or it
would try to die. Had tons of white smoke coming out the exhaust, but
that cleared after about 15 seconds. After about 15 more seconds, I shut
it down again to check things. Again everything looked good, so another
try at restart. No matter what I did could I get it to start and every
try produced a strong fuel smell at the exhaust pipes, so I slept on it last
night. This
morning, I tried again. After cranking for about 5 seconds, it
started but wouldn't run at less that 2000 rpm and had black smoke
coming out the exhaust. Let it run for about 10 minutes this time to warm
everything up. Car appeared to be missing the whole time. Started
pulling plug wires to see if I could isolate misfiring cylinder(s).
Pulled #3 first (firing), then #2 (firing), and then #1 (firing) but
didn't get it back on quick enough and engine stalled. Would not
restart. Pulled all six plugs and all six covered with black soot,
indicating very over rich condition. I know this
has been long, but my question is "where do I go from
here"? The car won't idle, it appears to be running super
rich, and it won't start a second time after running for any period of
time. Mike
TPS 1630
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