And get reverse drills. They just might get a bite and unscrew it! David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: I never had a lot of luck with E-Z outs or any extractors in general. Especially with exhaust hardware. You best option is to drill it out. Try to drill undersize working up to the root diameter and then cleaning the threads with a tap. If it doesn't go as planned you can always oversize it and put an insert in to get it back to standard. The difficulty here is trying to hold the correct angle and staying on center. That is why starting out with small drills is a good idea. This way as you work up to bigger drills you can try to move the hole over to the center if you find you are off. You might find it easier to use a right-angle drill, more room and it is easier to see what you are doing. Go slow and use plenty of lubricant and sharp drills. The last thing you want to do is break a drill, tap, or extractor off in the hole!!!!!!! The most important step is getting the center punch mark as close to center as you possibly can. It is very easy to get off-center and go from the hard steel into the soft aluminum. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dadoc2791" <gekko@...> wrote: > > I have recently developed an exhaust leak and after investigation, I > have found that I have a broken exhaust manifold stud. It is broken > off almost even with the surface of the head, so nothing to grab > hold of with the vice grips, etc. Since I haven't been under there > tweaking on the nuts, I have to assume it's been that way for some > time but the exhaust manifold gasket finally gave up the ghost and > is allowing exhaust gasses to leak by. > > Fortunately for me, it is the rear-most stud on the left side which > is (the only one which is) accessible without removing anything, > even the catalytic converter. > > The way I see it, I have 3 options for repair. > > 1. Drill out and replace with an oversized helicoil. (could be a > problem with space in the aluminum head - water jackets, etc.) > > 2. Drill out the entire stud and re-tap the hole (probably a bit > larger than stock)to replace the stud or bolt. > > 3. Drill the stud with a small bit (3/16" or so), drive an "E-Z > out" into it and unscrew the stud, replace with new one. > > My question is, which of these is the preferred method? I'm sure > this is not an unusual problem. How have 'we' found is the best way > to address it? > > Thanks in advance for your help. > > Craig Werner > 0781 > Chris 06301 Find me on Google Earth 45°43'03.24"N 123°53'45.81"W --------------------------------- Finding fabulous fares is fun. Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel bargains. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:dmcnews-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:dmcnews-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/