[DML] Re: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I never had a lot of luck with E-Z outs or any extractors in general.
Especially with exhaust hardware. You best option is to drill it out.
Try to drill undersize working up to the root diameter and then
cleaning the threads with a tap. If it doesn't go as planned you can
always oversize it and put an insert in to get it back to standard.
The difficulty here is trying to hold the correct angle and staying on
center. That is why starting out with small drills is a good idea.
This way as you work up to bigger drills you can try to move the hole
over to the center if you find you are off. You might find it easier
to use a right-angle drill, more room and it is easier to see what you
are doing. Go slow and use plenty of lubricant and sharp drills. The
last thing you want to do is break a drill, tap, or extractor off in
the hole!!!!!!! The most important step is getting the center punch
mark as close to center as you possibly can. It is very easy to get
off-center and go from the hard steel into the soft aluminum.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dadoc2791" <gekko@...> wrote:
>
> I have recently developed an exhaust leak and after investigation, I 
> have found that I have a broken exhaust manifold stud.  It is broken 
> off almost even with the surface of the head, so nothing to grab 
> hold of with the vice grips, etc.  Since I haven't been under there 
> tweaking on the nuts, I have to assume it's been that way for some 
> time but the exhaust manifold gasket finally gave up the ghost and 
> is allowing exhaust gasses to leak by.
> 
> Fortunately for me, it is the rear-most stud on the left side which 
> is (the only one which is) accessible without removing anything, 
> even the catalytic converter.
> 
> The way I see it, I have 3 options for repair.
>  
> 1.  Drill out and replace with an oversized helicoil. (could be a 
> problem with space in the aluminum head - water jackets, etc.)
> 
> 2.  Drill out the entire stud and re-tap the hole (probably a bit 
> larger than stock)to replace the stud or bolt.
> 
> 3.  Drill the stud with a small bit (3/16" or so), drive an "E-Z 
> out" into it and unscrew the stud, replace with new one.
> 
> My question is, which of these is the preferred method?  I'm sure 
> this is not an unusual problem.  How have 'we' found is the best way 
> to address it?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help.
> 
> Craig Werner
>  0781
>




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