[DML] Re: Yet another Idle question

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

On the same vein that Elvis mentions, look for play in the "Quadrant
link". That is the link that connects the throttle spool with the
throttle shaft. Common for the ends to wear and cause a lot of play
preventing a positive setting of the idle switch. Disassembling,
cleaning, lubricating, and reassembly of the throttle spool may also
help. Lubricate the throttle cable as per the recall. Make sure the
carpet doesn't interfere with the pedal. Check that the pedal isn't
bent by having an asisstant hold the gas pedal all the way down while
you check to see if the throttle spool hits the WOT switch.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Elvis" <elvisnocita@...> wrote:
>
> Bill,
> don't make it so complicated.
> 
> 1. is the idle switch ok ? 
> 2. is the idle switch being pushed correctly ?
> 3. verify it again
> 4. when the idle still hangs and you tested the switch
> with the engine off - test it again with the engine running !
> (push the lever it to close the butterflies completely)
> The vacuum behind the butterflies may prevent them from closing 
> completely because the shaft is worn.
> I've seen and heared of this problem more often then I heared 
> of a defect temp sensor (actually not even once !).
> 
> When the idle switch is not pushed, the idle ECU increases
> idle speed to something above 1000rpm !!!!
> 
> Elvis & 6548
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm having some trouble diagnosing a problem with 6976.  It starts 
> up 
> > and runs like a champ, however when the engine warms up, the idle 
> > gradually increases to the point that it doesn't go below ~1500rpm.
> > 
> > Now I've heard people say its the thermistor, but I been in the 
> valley 
> > of my car and I don't want to return unless I am sure that is the 
> > problem.  I wanted to test the thermistor (and possibly the whole 
> idle 
> > system).  Is it true that I should measure the resistance of the #9 
> & 
> > #11 wires coming off the ECU when the engine is cold/hot?  I read 
> > someplace else that on a cold engine, resistance should be around 
> 10K 
> > ohms, and it should drop considerably after the engine is warm (if 
> the 
> > thermistor is working).  Except I couldn't get a reading connecting 
> my 
> > voltmeter to those two wires, so instead I was measuring resistance 
> at 
> > the #9 and #11 pins on the ECU (which I realize now was a stupid 
> > mistake).  So I'm wondering - does anyone have any guidance to 
> offer?  
> > Or perhaps an alternate means of testing my idle control system?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Bill
> > (and VIN06976!)
> >
>




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