Harold, You are correct about the shorter cable but did not mention the improved support bracket introduced at the same time. From VIN #005179 a 24" cable was introduced along with a bracket to keep the cable from kinking and away from the tire. The earlier 36" cable was zip-tied to the A/C hose and then looped over to the angle drive causing vibration and increased drag on the angle drive. We sell an our own improved version of the shorter cable (#111412G - $58.75) and the NOS bracket (#110528 - $19.95). These parts often solve the shaky needle at lower speeds problem. You can read Parts Bulletin PI-09-8/82 for more information. We have also just introduced a NEW ONE PIECE CABLE (#112421G - $78.75) that eliminates the Lambda counter and upper cable. Please note it's not listed on our website yet but we have them in stock. This will further reduce the drag on the angle drive and hopefully lead to longer life for that poorly designed part as well as the cable itself. Most DMLers are savvy enough not to need an idiot light to remind them to change the oxygen sensor anyway and it has a bad habit of coming on early as well! We are considering offering a kit with the one piece cable, support bracket, and angle drive at a reduced price if there is enough interest in it. Thank you, Robert Grady, P.J.Grady Inc. -----Original Message----- From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Harold McElraft Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:41 PM To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [DML] Re: Speedometer bouncing The bouncing is usually caused by the OEM lower cable that is too long (a subsequent change used a shorter cable - there was a bulletin on this I believe). The longer cable has too much bend in it and allows the cable to have accelerating rotations in it. Poor lubrication will usually amplify the acceleration and the bouncing. If it is lubricated with a proper, thin, non hardening lubricant it will usually minimize after some "settling in". Unfortunately, the longer lower cable also allowed moisture to collect in a trap effect in the cable behind the front wheel before it entered the car (there is usually some extra rubber piece over the cable too that help this) thus causing seizure of the cable in the housing and often destroying the angle drive when it seizes. The longer cable can cause various problems. Order the shorter cable from DMCH (the last time I tried they were out) or, get the Teflon coated cable from DPNW. DPNW's is a longer cable and initially had some of the bounce but after running a while is virtually all gone. Harold McElraft - 3354 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Nick Kemp" <nkemp@xxxx> wrote: > > I too have a bouncing speedo. I've done a bunch of things to it and it > still bounces. > > Anyway, here are additional thoughts: > - Check to see that the cable through the hub is not pushing the yellow cap > out a bit. If so it will kink the cable when the hub is tight. To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/