[DML] Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!

["blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi

my car has sat for 12 years (then i shipped to the Uk to restore)
and i have pretty much the same problem, and have hunted throughout 
to find the same with others (but found no complete answers!)

with my car i have changed the CPR, petrol filter, accumulator, 
plugs, pulled injectors and tested the spray pattern, removed air 
intake manifold and changed o rings, changed sensors in y pipe and 
she still does exactly the same thing....starts ok then runs 30 secs 
then revs drop then dies.

i thought the cold start vale may be leaking fuel into the intake 
(and efeectivley flooding it) but my next check was the idle system.

so removed the idle cpu and motor and sent away to be put on a test 
car....worked fine.

i have now removed the idle motor, blocked the two pipes leading 
from it and used the three brass screws then started and she now 
idles at 1500 revs and carried on running!.

so i think with my car the microswitch may be faulty or there is a 
diode next to the cpu, or the wire feed from the distributer (which 
tells the cpu the engine revolutions, and obviously check fuse 1 
which feeds the idle system.

not saying your is the same...but it is exhibiting exactly the same 
symptoms.

if she struggles to start check the plug which goes to the cold 
start valve, the connectors inside mine push back in the rubber when 
you plug it in and did not connect correctly.

from others

"As said in previous post, you can completely remove the idle speed
motor (large black can size of baked bean tin on left hand side of
engine when viewed from the rear. Block the 2 rubber pipes with a 
large
bolt in each (v important).

Fully seat the 3 brass screws (just above the W shaped part of the
inlet manifold when stood from the rear of the engine) by hand, DO 
NOT
OVERTIGHTEN THEM THEY WILL SHEAR
Then, undo the 2 nearest to you by 2.5 turns and then the one 
furthest
away by 7 full turns. This should get the car to idle at a fixed 
rate."

and 
why many people out there now think that their idle speed motor
should stop making that buzzing sound after a few seconds ?
They are totally mislead because it is supposed to buzz as long as
the key is inserted and turned to the position where all the bulbs
in the dash are on. The green wire to the idle ECU is fed by the AUX
relay and fuse #1 - it's not even connected to the RPM relayJust to 
add, these invariably fail open-circuit (and sometimes the
connector can go bad resulting in the same symptoms) but is 
incredibly
easy to diagnose. If you look at the top of your idlespeed ECU, 
you'll
see that the pin-out for the plugs is numbered. Look for pins 9 and 
11,
and put an ohm-meter across them in the plug. From memory, the 
reading
should be between 700 and 2200 ohm depending on engine temp. If it's 
O/C
you immediately know where to look"

these are off others

hope this helps, i am not working on mine for a few days so let me 
know how you get on.

Regards

Steve












--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12@xxxx> 
wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> 
> My car is manifesting a new problem. The car will start then idle 
at 
> 1000 rpm for about 10-15 seconds then die.  If i push on the 
> accellerator or turn the spindle the engine will abruptly die.  If 
the 
> car manages to stay running for about thirty seconds I can turn 
the 
> spindle and the engine will begin to respond, first coughing and 
> bogging down, then eventually respond like normal.  (once warm??) 
> 
> What the heck is this? I searched the archives and the closest 
thing I 
> can come to is that it may be related to the control preassure 
> regulator. I removed the fuel line going from the center of the 
fuel 
> dist. to the CPR and the screen had a some dirt around the edges. 
I 
> removed it, still has this problem.  I drained my battery twice so 
far 
> trying to solve this!
> 
> Since I am relatively new to the Delorean I must also ask this:  
When 
> the key is turned to the "on" position I hear a click and a buzz 
(I 
> think the frequency valve) then the buzzing stops and will not 
start 
> again until I turn the crank. I removed the cover from the RPM 
relay 
> and confirmed that the click is from that relay. Is this a normal 
> condition? Also when the engine is running the sound of the 
frequeency 
> valve changes and immediately causes the idle to fluctuate up and 
down 
> (300 RPM or so) with the change in sound.  Normal, or $&#@*& up?
> 
> Alot, I know but this newby needs the help! Thanks!
> 
> Nathan
> 2277
>








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